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/-U^^^tu/^  /l(^ 


ADVENTURES 


WITH 


INDIANS  AND  GAME 


OR 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 


BY 


Dr.  WILLIAM  A.  ALLEN 


ILLUSTRATED 


CHICAGO. 

-A..  "W.  BO^VSN  &  CO. 
1©03. 


57 


COPYRIGHT,   1903,  BY 
A.  W.  BOWEN  &  CO. 


CM 


CQ 


Bancroft  Library 


DEDICATION, 


TO  MY  MOTHER^ 

who  first  took  me  afield,  I  dedicate  this  record  of  an  out- 
of-doors  life.  In  the  earlier  days,  as  I  approached  home,  I 
would  lilt  some  song  to  let  her  know  of  my  safe  return.  Let 
this  book  now  be  my  tribute  to  her  as  she  closes  a  beautiful 
life,  whose  words  and  deeds  have  instilled  into  my  own  life 
whatever  has  been  shown  as  noble  and  manly. 


INTRODUCTION, 


This  fascinating  narrative,  which  the  pubHshers  experi- 
ence much  pleasure  in  offering  to  the  public,  has  come  forth 
as  the  result  of  years  of  loving  participation  in  hunt,  in  In- 
dian fighting,  and  in  nature  studies,  by  Dr.  W.  A.  Allen,  a 
typical  oldtime  Westerner,  who,  for  over  a  quarter  of  a  cen- 
tury, has  taken  part  in  the  wild  life  of  the  West,  being  in 
the  early  days  the  trusted  leader  of  immigration,  a  keen  en- 
joyer  of  the  sports  of  the  chase,  a  crack  rifle  shot,  who  won 
and  successfully  maintained  an  enviable  record  as  an  Indian 
fighter  of  bravery  and  distinction. 

This  volume  will  be  welcomed  by  lovers  of  nature  and 
nature  studies  for  its  scientific  value  in  the  portrayal  of  nat- 
ural history ;  by  the  *'old-timers"  of  Montana  and  Wyoming 
for  its  lifelike  retrospect  of  the  days  when  every  man  held 
his  life  in  his  own  hand,  and  peril  lurked  on  the  bank  of 
every  stream,  glanced  out  from  every  mountain  side  and  lay 
in  wait  everywhere  amid  the  rich  grasses  of  the  plains ;  by 
all  lovers  of  their  country,  true  Americans,  for  the  light  it 
throws  upon  the  flora  and  fauna  of  the  primitive  prairies  and 
mountains,  and  for  its  minute  descriptions  of  the  different 
animals  that  were  once  the  occupants  of  this  then  strange, 
mysterious,  unknown  country,  since  that  time  wrested  from 
savage  domination  for  the  establishment  of  civilization  by 


8  INTRODUCTION. 

that  class  of  tireless,  brave  and  heroic  pioneers,  of  which  the 
author  is  a  notable  example. 

An  attempt  to  narrate,,  even  in  epitome,  the  incidents 
which  have  characterized  the  life  of  this  Montana  pioneer 
would  transcend  by  far  the  normal  province  of  an  introduc- 
tion, yet  it  would  be  culpable  neglect  were  there  failure  to 
advert  to  their  more  salient  expressions,  for  he  stands  promi- 
nent, not  merely  in  a  local  way  as  one  of  the  founders  of  the 
city  of  Billings,  Montana,  but  also  as  a  leading  student  of 
physical,  natural  and  geologic  history,  and  as  an  acknowl- 
edged authority  on  the  flora  and  fauna  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tain region.  He  is  known  as  a  "dead  shot"  hunter,  and  such 
journals  as  the  Turf,  Field  and  Farm  esteem  him  as  a  val- 
uable correspondent  and  contributor  to  their  columns. 

Descending  from  good  old  English  and  Irish  families 
of  the  long  ago.  Dr.  William  A.  Allen  is  far  more  proud  of 
his  relationship  on  the  paternal  side  with  Ethan  Allen,  the 
"hero  of  Ticonderoga,"  and  on  the  maternal,  with  the  dis- 
tinguished Benjamin  Franklin.  He  was  born  at  Summer- 
field,  Noble  county,  Ohio,  on  September  2,.  1848.  His  finish- 
ing literary  education  came  to  him  in  an  Ohio  normal 
school,  and,  showing  marked  mechanical  tastes,  he  early  be- 
came both  a  blacksmith  and  a  maker  of  guns.  In  1877  ^^ 
started  for  the  Black  Hills.  At  Spearfish,  now  in  South 
Dakota,  he  joined  an  emigrant  party  of  250  persons,  here 
commencing  his  twenty-five  years  of  adventurous  western 
existence  and  hunting  exploits. 

Starting  for  Bozeman,  in  far  off  Montana,  the  strenuous 


INTRODUCTION.  9 

existence  of  the  frontier  soon  came  to  the  party  in  full  vigoi 
in  attacks  of  savage  Sioux  Indians,  in  which  a  number  of 
the  company  were  killed  and  others  wounded,  Doctor  Allen 
being  among  the  latter.  Returning  to  Spearfish  to  reform 
their  organization.  Doctor  Allen  was  made  the  commander  of 
the  train,  which  he  divided  into  four  companies.  Their  route 
took  them  up  the  Belle  Fouche  River,  past  old  Fort  Reno, 
through  Wyoming,  by  the  site  of  Buffalo  and  old  Fort  Kear- 
ney, thence  up  Goose  Creek,  where,  in  a  spiteful  attack  by  In- 
dians, one  man  was  killed  and  others  wounded. 

In  the  locality  of  the  historic  last  battleground  of  the 
gallant  General  Custer,  they  remained  three  days,  which  they 
profitably  passed  in  a  careful  study  of  the  grounds,  tracing 
accurately  the  various  movements  of  the  contesting  foes  un- 
til they  ended  at  the  pile  of  bones  that  showed  where  the  last 
white  survivors  met  their  death.  Here  the  party  divided,  one 
part  going  to  the  Crow  agency,  another  by  Pryor's  Pass, 
Sage  Creek  and  Stinking  Water  crossing  to  Wind  River,  the 
others,  with  Doctor  Allen,  going  to  Camp  Brown  and  to 
Bozeman,  the  end  of  their  journey. 

Various  vocations  have  been  followed  by  Doctor  Allen 
in  the  Great  West.  He  was  for  some  time  a  blacksmith, 
having  a  shop  at  Bozeman,  later  an  express  messenger,  the 
government  blacksmith  at  Fort  Custer,,  a  stockraiser  on  Can- 
yon Creek,  in  1882  removing  to  Billings,  then  a  mere  cluster 
of  crude,  primitive  dwellings,  where  he  erected  the  first  house 
in  the  Yellowstone  Valley  covered  with  a  shingle  roof.  After 
this  he  thoroughly  pursued  the  study  of  dentistry  in  the  Chi- 


10  INTRODUCTION. 

cage  College  of  Dentistry  and  in  Haskell's  Post-Graduate 
School  of  Dentistry,  and  has  since  maintained  his  home 
dental  office  at  Billings,  acquiring  an  extended  reputation  as 
an  expert  in  both  mechanical  and  surgical  branches  of  den- 
tistry. The  genial  Doctor  is  a  true  "old-timer,"  a  man  of 
honesty  and  integrity,  charitable  and  generous  to  his  fellow 
men.  He  has  ever  been  a  total  abstainer  from  intoxicating 
liquors.  Honored  as  a  citizen,  reverenced  as  a  pioneer,  few 
people  of  the  state  of  his  adoption  stand  higher  in  the  estima- 
tion of  the  public. 

We  have  closely  adhered  to  the  plain  vernacular  used 
by  the  Doctor  and  trust  that  the  reader  will  fully  appreciate 
the  thrilling  interest  of  the  narrative.  Of  the  numerous 
illustrations,  so  profusely  scattered  through  the  work,  too 
much  cannot  be  said  of  their  accuracy  and  value.  Many  are 
from  photographs  taken  by  Doctor  Allen  himself,  in  localities 
and  under  circumstances  never  again  to  be  repeated.  The 
Past  of  the  Great  West  here  comes  once  again  to  the  reader, 
in  all  of  its  romance,  peril  and  enjoyment,  and,  in  the  perusal 
of  these  pages,  the  greatly  changed  and  practical  Present  will 
be  for  the  time  forgotten. 

The  Publishers. 


PREFACE. 


As  I  look  back  after  many  years  spent  on  the  plains, 
mountains  and  rivers  of  the  Northwest,  the  trail  seems  long 
and  full  of  dangers  of  every  description.  Many  personal  ac- 
cidents, hazardous  undertakings,  conflicts  with  savages  and 
wild  beasts  in  a  strange  land,  loom  up  large  as  I  recall  my 
past  days.  I  can  see  the  trail  running  through  fifty  years, 
from  childhood's  day,  and,  in  that  time,  the  Great  West  has 
undergone  many  changes.  I  have  witnessed  the  extermina- 
tion of  the  buffalo,  the  wild  horse,  the  fan-tailed  deer  and  the 
wild  pigeon.  The  elk,  the  moose,  the  caribou  and  the  ante- 
lope families  are  now  reduced  to  a  few  scattering  bands,  oc- 
cupying only  the  very  wildest  and  most  inaccessible  places, 
far  from  the  haunts  of  man.  I  wonder  what  the  next  fifty 
years  will  bring  forth.  Deer  parks  and  game  preserves  will 
no  doubt  be  the  order  of  the  day.  The  youth  will  read  of  the 
buffalo  chase  and  of  the  wild  Sioux  and  will  earnestly  wish 
that  he  could  see  these  strange,  exciting  phases  of  a  life 
which  has  even  now  passed  away  forever. 

It  has  been  my  lot  to  see  many  marvelous  sights  and  my 
fortune  to  be  a  part  of  not  a  few  strange  episodes.  I  have 
seen  millions  of  buffaloes  extending  in  a  mass  as  far  as  the 
eye  could  see  on  plain  and  mountain.  It  would  require 
three  days  for  these  herds  to  pass  a  given  point.  The  Sioux 
Indians,  the  Cheyennes ,  the  Crows,  the  Blackfoots,  the 
Bloods,  the  Flatheads  and  many  other  tribes  have  passed 
away  before  my  eyes.  The  wild  scalp-dances  are  a  thing  of 
the  past,  and  the  sun-dance,  with  its  tortures  as  a  test  of  en- 


12  PREFACE. 

durance,  is  now  only  a  memory.  This  record  of  my  life  is 
neither  wholly  comprehensive  nor  consecutive.  I  have  re- 
corded only  those  events,  truly  within  the  scope  of  this  book. 

We  can  look  back  to  the  great  Missouri  and  see  no  rail- 
road crossing  it  until  1882.  The  opening  of  this  wonderful 
thoroughfare  through  the  Dakotas  and  Montana,  made  ac- 
cess to  the  wealth  of  the  Northwest  comparatively  easy.  The 
face  of  the  earth  then  speedily  changed.  The  old  hunter,  and 
the  trapper  with  his  packs  and  traps,  stole  sorrowfully  away 
to  new  fields  in  virgin  hills,  far  from  civilization^  where  they 
now  reside  or  have  passed  with  feeble  footsteps  over  the 
Great  Divide.  Next  came  the  era  of  the  plow.  The  pastures 
of  the  buffalo  were  planted  in  grain  and  civilized  homes  were 
built.  The  plains  were  irrigated  and  fertilized  and  now  they 
blossom  as  the  rose. 

My  life  on  the  plains  has  exposed  me  to  all  kinds  of 
inclement  weather,  but,  at  the  age  of  fifty-three  years,  I  am 
still  in  perfect  health.  I  attribute  this  condition  to  the  fact 
that  I  use  no  alcohol,  drugs  or  narcotics  in  any  form,  nour- 
ishing myself  with  plenty  of  fresh  air,  pure  water  and  whole- 
some food.  My  sight  is  as  good  as  ever,  and  I  can  still  travel 
over  rugged  heights  with  younger  men. 

Go  into  the  mountains,  study  the  trees  and  flowers,  ex- 
plore the  canyons,  smell  the  fragrant  hemlocks  and  pines. 
Consider  the  ways  of  the  majestic  eagle,  the  noble  elk,  the 
cunning  fox  and  the  practical  beaver.  Learn  of  the  flowers 
and  ferns  which  beautify  the  hills,  whose  veins  of  gold,  cop- 
per and  iron  will  enrich  generations  yet  to  be.  Through 
these  creations,  study  the  great  Creator,  and  you  will  be  the 
better  because  you  will  feel  the  greatness  of  the  Maker,  and 
realize  your  own  insignificance  without  His  guidance. 

W.  A.  Allen. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  1.     My  Eably  Adventures 19 

My  first  chipmunk — gray  squirrels — skill  with  the  rifle — 
leaving  home — my  mother's  gift,  a  Bible — starting  for 
the  Black  Hills — my  first  deer — prospecting. 

CHAPTER  11.     Indian  Warfare 27 

Sioux  massacres — horrible  mutilations — on  the  trail  of 
murderers — a  battle  with  the  Sioux — Indian  tricks — 
Nickerson  fires  first  fatal  shot — Eleven  Sioux  killed — "Ca- 
lamity Jane" — attacked  by  Indians — Randall's  successful 
shot — fourteen  Sioux  lie  dead — we  pursue  our  journey. 

CHAPTER  III.     Crossing  the  Plains 38 

Enroute  for  old  Fort  Kearney — Allen  elected  general — 
horse  thieves — organization  and  discipline — life  in  camp 
— Indian  camps  seen — double  guards  put  out — personnel 
of  company — first  sight  of  the  Rockies — on  Mount  Zion — 
wild  country — first  deer  hunt — Grizzly  Bill — grouse — 
Powder  River — fishing — at  old  Fort  Kearney — the  Fet- 
terman  massacre. 

CHAPTER  IV.     Nature    Studies 54 

Animal  life  on  the  plains — white-tailed  deer — buffaloes — 
beaver  dams — beaver  at  work — a  beaver  colony. 

CHAPTER  V.     Custer's  Last  Battle 62 

The  battlefield  to-day — "Here  is  where  Custer  Fell" — the 
brave  attack — 360  soldiers  charge  6,000  Indian  warriors 
— all  of  the  soldiers  killed — Indian  warriors — Sitting 
Bull — Gaul — Rain-in-the-Face — the  scene  of  the  contest 
examined — the  Custer  monument — description  of  the  bat- 
tle and  Indian  customs. 

CHAPTER  VI.     The  Glad  Joy  of  the  Hunt 76 

Plant  growth  in  the  Big  Horn  valley — killing  a  doe — 
the  shooting  of  Thomas  Randall — I  kill  my  first  grizzly — 
the  victim  of  a  murderer — Prior's  Pass — the  Big  Horn 
mountains — hunting  buffaloes — something  about  bears — 
antelopes — our  guide  turns  back — charming  scenery — the 
Bad  Lands. 

CHAPTER  VII.     A  Strange  Battle  and  Indian  Horse  Races.     87 
A  bald  eagle  and  a  rattlesnake  in  a  death  battle — horse 
racing — Indian  ponies  successful — white  men's  strategy 
— large  bets — Indians  lose  heavily — Indian  riders. 


14  TARLE  OF  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  VIII.     About  the  Crows  and  Sioux 94 

Rock  pictures — Rotten  Belly  and  his  Crow  warriors — 
Sioux  in  pursuit — sagacity  of  the  Sioux — preparation  for 
a  battle  royal — Crows  file  out  for  battle — the  Sioux  at- 
tack— the  Crows  overpowered — a  phantom  white  horse 
joins  the  Crows — the  Sioux  are  panic-stricken — Crows 
victorious — Long  Hair — smallpox — two  braves  sacrifise 
themselves — more  rock  pictures. 

CHAPTER  IX.     How  a  Mountain  Lion  Met  His  Fate 102 

First  a  bobcat,  then  an  elk,  then  the  terror  of  the  plains. 

CHAPTER  X.     Descriptive 109 

John  Dunn — a  grand  sunset — I  shoot  a  buck — trout  for 
supper — cougars — a  Bighorn  sheep — hunting  elk — two 
cougars  shot  and  killed — golden  eagles. 

CHAPTER  XI.     Hunting  Big  Game 121 

Waiting  for  our  guide — more  killing  of  elk — a  great  game 
country — another  mountain  lion — hunting  bears — ven- 
geance vowed  on  treacherous  guide — going  through  the 
Bad  Lands — luck  in  hunting  buffaloes — the  Crow  reser- 
vation—  we  camp  on  Deer  Creek — arrive  at  Boseman. 

CHAPTER  XII.     Another  Hunting  Trip 133 

Hiram  Steward — a  hunting  knife — shoot  at  a  target — I 
beat  the  Crow  champion — off  for  the  hunt — plenty  of 
game — my  Winchester — Steward's  torpedo — that  "pea- 
slinger" — at  peace  in  camp. 

CHAPTER  XIII.     Our  Adventures  on  Pryor  Creek 141 

Off  again  with  Steward — camp  in  the  midst  of  elk,  deer 
and  antelope — kill  five  large,  fat  elks — I  kill  a  mountain 
lion — luck  in  hunting  elk — three  Indians  visit  us — camp 
robbed  by  them — Steward  angry — Chief  Crazy  Head — 
"medicine"  and  customs  of  the  Crows — origin  of  the 
Crow  name — we  hunt  geese. 

CHAPTER  XIV.     Various  Interesting  Matters 153 

First  kill  bear — in  a  herd  of  buffaloes — adventure  with 
buffalo  and  mountain  lion — something  about  Hiram 
Steward. 

CHAPTER  XV.    What  Little  Horn  and  I  Experienced 159 

Chumming  with  an  Indian  chief — off  for  gold — adven- 
ture with  a  cinnamon  bear — "Otter  heap  good  medicine" 
— reminiscences  of  Little  Horn — we  journey  on — another 
mountain  lion — fight  with  a  bear — a  frightened  Indian. 

CHAPTER  XVI.     Hunting  Expeditions  Near  the  Big  Horn 

Mountains 169 

A  charming  picture — all  kinds  of  game — a  bear  in  a 
cave — Steward  in  trouble — a  close  call — a  dead  bear — 
"How  did  I  git  away  from  him?" — around  the  campfire 


TARLE  OF  CONTENTS.  1 5 

— "Captain  Jinks" — deer,  elk  and  otter — the  Devil's 
Slide — a  swimming  race  with  a  grizzly — on  the  way 
home. 

CHAPTER  XVII.     Life  in  the  Wilds 185 

Pryor  Creek — camp  in  a  canyon — a  lonely  solitude —  a 
bald  eagle — effects  of  a  rifle  shot — a  grizzly  and  her  cubs 
— a  cave  of  death — a  mountain  lion's  den — prowling 
thieves — still  more  deer — bear  and  elk. 

CHAPTER  XVIII.    A  Journey  to  Civilization 193 

Crow  Indians  and  their  sweethearts — a  long  trip  before 
me — on  the  water — a  retrospect — more  hunting — a  dead 
bear — antelopes — buffaloes — a  Crow  camp — frightened  In- 
dians— an  old  friend — hard  traveling — at  Fort  Buford — 
take  train  at  Bismarck. 

CHAPTER  XIX.     Again  in  the  West 203 

Off  for  the  hills — Bovia  Creek — three  deers  at  three 
shots — good  sport — Jack  and  Antelope — wolves — fishing 
on  the  Upper  Big  Horn — interesting  sport — a  storm — the 
old  Major — some  "yellow  dogs" — a  lion's  den — an  Indian 
paradise. 

CHAPTER  XX.     Buffalo  v.  Bear — A  Strange  Contest 218 

CHAPTER  XXI.     The  American  Gazelle — A  Last  Battle.  .  226 

CHAPTER  XXII.     A  Day  Among  the  Clouds 232 

CHAPTER  XXIII.     A  Successful  Bear  Hunt 237 

CHAPTER  XXIV.     Regarding  the  Antelope  Family 243 

CHAPTER  XXV.     Good  Sport  in  Patohar  Basin 247 

CHAPTER  XXVI.     The  Sportsman's  old  Haunts 256 

Indian  summer — on  the  mountain — a  big  horn  chase — my 
largest  ram. 

CHAPTER  XXVII.     Goat  Hunting  at  Dearborn  Canyon..  260 

CHAPTER  XXVIII.     After  Elk  on  Tensleep  River 267 

CHAPTER  XXIX    Big  Game  Falls  Before  Us 282 

CHAPTER  XXX.     Our  Brothers  of  the  Forest 294 

Lost  to  the  outside  world — birds — red  deer — animal 
speech — gray  wolf — elk — ruffed  grouse — a  splendid  speci- 
men. 

CHAPTER  XXXI.     Conclusion 299 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PAGE. 

Antelope  Horns  before  shedding 241 

Antelope  Horns  after  shedding 241 

Antelopes — Photographed  in  life  by  Dr.  Allen.     Facing 196 

Band  of  Elks  on  Ten  Sleep  River.    Pacing 280 

A'     Battle  of  the  Elks.    From  Russell's  painting 119 

Beaver  cutting  timber 55 

Bighorn  ram — Photographed  from  life  by  Dr.  Allen.     Facing.  258 

Buck    antelope.     Facing 248 

Buffalo   feeding   in   Yellowstone   Valley — From    photograph. 

Facing    154 

Cinnamon   Bear 127 

Cougar  or  Mountain  Lion.     Facing 184 

Custer's  last  battle 63 

,  Death  battle  of  Buffalo  and  Grizzly.    From  Russell's  painting  221 
Dead  Lock  of  White-tail  Bucks  found  in  the  Judith  Mountains  190 

Dr.  Allen  stalking  a  Mountain  Lion 114 

Dr.  Allen's  opportune  shot  at  Grizzly 173 

Eagle  killing  a  Rattlesnake 88 

Elks  Photographed  in  life  by  Dr.  Allen 143 

Horns   of    Fan-tailed    Deer    (Gazelle) 227 

Gaul,   a  famous   Sioux  Chief 97 

Monument  on  Custer's  last  battleground.     Facing 19 

Mountain  Lion  stalking  a  Bighorn  Ram 113 

Otter    fishing 227 

Portrait  of  Author Frontispiece 

Some  Black-tailed  Does 205 

Sitting  Bull— War  Chief  of  the  Sioux 25 

The  Author  in  his  Den 103 

Where  Custer  made  his  last  stand 69 

White-tailed  Doe  and  Fawn 42 


MONUMENT  ON  CUSTER'S  LAST  BATTLEFIELD, 


ADVENTURES  OF  DR.  ALLEN 

OR 

TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE   ROCKIES 


CHAPTER  L 


My  EARiiT  Advbnttjrbs— My  first  chipmunk— gray  squirrels— skill  with  the 
rifle — leaving  home— my  mother's  gift,  a  Bible— starting  for  the  Black 
Hills— my  first  deer— prospecting. 

I  am  impelled  to  write  of  my  adventures  in  the  far 
West,  and  of  the  many  strange  and  thrilling  incidents 
through  which  I  have  passed,  but  my  thoughts  recur  with 
persistent  obstinacy  to  my  childhood,  so  I  will  give  a  brief 
retrospect  of  those  early  events  which  did  much  to  shape  the 
course  of  my  subsequent  days. 

My  father  died  when  I  was  two  years  of  age,  and  from 
this  time  my  childhood  days  were  spent  at  the  farm  of  my 
uncle,  Samuel  Guiler,  near  Freedom,  Noble  county,  Ohio. 
My  uncle  was  a  Christian,,  unwisely  generous  and  a  true 
sportsman.  Hence  it  is  that  I  was  imbued  with  the  spirit  of 
sportsmanship.  But,  had  it  not  been  for  my  innate  love  for 
the  gun,  I  never  would  have  become  proficient  in  its  use  in 
the  small  amount  of  time  allotted  to  such  sport  in  farm  life. 
My  first  killing  was  a  chipmunk  when  I  was  seven  years 


20  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

old.  That  event  is  still  photographed  on  my  memory,  as 
clearly  as  is  the  bright  spring  morning  down  in  the  corn- 
field, where  the  red  bird  and  chipmunk  were  then  in  part- 
nership in  harvesting  the  newly  planted  corn. 

As  the  years  passed,  I  began  my  rambles  through  the 
forests,  with  my  mother  as  guide,  for  she  was  in  constant 
fear  when  I  was  out  of  her  sight.  On  one  occasion  I  stole 
out  alone  with  my  old  Kentucky  rifle  and  soon  found  a  large 
gray  squirrel  culling  nuts  in  a  hickory  tree.  With  the  tread 
of  a  cat  I  soon  located  him  and  prepared  the  limb  of  a  dog- 
wood tree  for  a  rest.  When  the  stinging  report  broke  the 
stillness  of  that  grand  old  forest,  centuries  old,  down  came 
my  prize.  With  a  joyful  heart  I  took  the  trophy  home.  My 
people  were  delighted  and  I  was  then  privileged  to  tramp 
the  forests  at  my  will.  I  was  devoted  to  that  old  gun,  and, 
as  the  days  went  by,  I  became  a  marksman  of  no  small  skill. 
For  the  amusement  of  my  boy  friends  I  would  shoot  the 
clapper  out  of  a  cowbell  at  forty  yards  distance,  or  could  cut 
off  a  pig's  tail  with  a  rifle  ball  as  though  with  a  knife. 

In  1864  my  mother  remarried  and  moved  to  Centerville, 
Iowa.  Here  I  soon  became  noted  for  my  daring  and  mark- 
manship.  Presently  I  became  acquainted  with  the  city  gun- 
smith, and,  after  showing  him  some  of  my  feats  with  the 
rifle,  he  accepted  me  as  an  apprentice.  I  worked  with  a  will 
at  my  new  trade,  for  I  was  devoted  to  anything  pertaining 
to  a  gun.  After  a  few  months  I  undertook  to  make  myself 
a  gun,  every  part  of  which  should  be  my  work.  I  set  my 
tapered  barrel  in  the  guide  and  commenced  my  labor  of 
love.  As  the  rifles  were  cut,  one  by  one,  and  the  trimmings 
placed,  I  could  see  that  a  gun  was  being  formed  and  was 
pleased  beyond  words.  After  three  weeks  we  went  to  the 
testing  field.  Judge  of  my  surprise  when  my  instructor, 
with  my  rifle,  drove  seven  balls  into  a  stump  four  hundred 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  21 

yards  away.  I  was  now,  in  my  own  estimation,  a  man,  ready 
to  stake  my  life  on  the  accuracy  of  that  gun. 

An  expedition  was  then  about  to  start  for  the  Rocky 
Mountain  country,  and  I  was  acquainted  with  the  organizer, 
whom  I  had  met  several  times  while  making  rifles  for  the 
expedition.  I  decided  to  join  him  and  his  party,  and  was 
outfitting  myself  as  rapidly  as  my  means  would  permit, 
when  my  stepfather,  in  terms  which  admitted  of  no  misun- 
derstanding, informed  me  that  I  should  not  go.  I  rebelled 
at  this,  and,  as  I  had  never  received  much  encouragement 
at  his  hands,  I  resolved  to  leave  home  for  all  time. 

I  collected  my  scanty  wardrobe  and  prepared  to  go  to 
the  home  of  my  uncle  in  Ohio.  With  a  sorrowful  heart  my 
mother  met  me  at  the  gate,  and  while  our  tears  fell  like  rain, 
she  kissed  me  good-bye  and  placed  a  little  Bible  in  my  hands, 
exacting  a  promise  that  I  would  ever  refrain  from  liquor 
and  gambling.  I  readily  gave  her  my  word  of  honor,  not 
thinking  seriously  of  its  importance,  but  in  after  years  I 
have  had  frequent  occasion  to  recall  her  words.  The  little 
Bible  has  remained  in  my  possession,  a  comfort  and  a  link 
to  the  past.  It  has  survived  two  fires  where  the  houses  were 
burned  to  the  ground,  and  passed  through  a  flood  where  it 
floated  for  twenty-four  hours.  The  lessons  learned  from 
the  little  book  still  have  a  sacred  place  in  my  heart. 

With  my  relatives  and  friends  in  my  old  home,  I  soon 
forgot  the  unpleasant  scenes  I  had  left  behind.  I  remained 
in  this  place  for  several  years.  During  this  time  I  met  and 
married  a  Miss  Houston.  My  salary  as  a  farm  hand  was 
very  small,  and  I  engaged  in  blacksmithing  with  a  partner, 
whom,  six  months  later,  I  bought  out  and  started  business 
for  myself.  By  this  time  I  was  the  father  of  two  boys,,  and 
as  I  looked  into  their  bright  little  faces,  I  would  ask  my 
wife  if  we  would  ever  be  able  to  educate  them  as  we  wished 


22  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

to  do,  for  we  were  very  ambitious  for  them.  Doubting  our 
ability  to  do  this  in  the  overcrowded  East,  for  their  sakes  I 
resolved  to  take  my  chances  of  fortune  in  the  wild,  unbroken 
country  of  the  West.  I  had  counted  the  cost  of  hardship 
and  danger,  of  death,  but  was  undaunted.  Stories  of  gold 
fields  in  the  Black  Hills  reached  my  ears,  and  I  determined 
to  depart  thither.  When  my  intention  became  known,  I  was 
overwhelmed  with  all  kinds  of  advice,  admonition  and  warn- 
ing, and  as  the  days  passed  the  excitement  became  more  in- 
tense. But  my  hopes  were  strong  and  I  was  a  healthy  man, 
accustomed  to  a  hard  life. 

On  the  1 2th  day  of  March,  1877,  I  set  out  for  the  Black 
Hills.  At  Zanesville  I  met  Alexandrer  Mitten  and  Thomas 
Sipe,  of  Sarahsville,  Ohio,  who  were  also  bound  for  my  des- 
tination. We  joined  company  and  journeyed  to  Sidney,  Ne- 
braska. As  we  arrived  at  this  frontier  town,  the  rain  was 
falling  in  torrents  and  the  Black  Hills  stage  came  in  with  a 
dead  driver  in  the  boot,  shot  by  the  Sioux  Indians.  While 
this  circumstance  did  not  enhance  the  cheerfulness  of  the 
situation,  neither  did  it  deter  us  from  proceeding. 

On  the  following  morning  we  contracted  with  three 
men,,  who  were  driving  teams  to  the  hills,  to  take  us  as  pas- 
sengers. Our  baggage,  consisting  of  seamless  sacks,  was 
brought  forward  and  weighed,  and  we  soon  struck  a  bargain 
for  the  transportation.  As  soon  as  our  train  had  pulled  out, 
we  saw  a  band  of  Pawnee  Indians,  and  Mitten  predicted 
that  our  ''hair  would  be  raised"  before  we  reached  the  hills. 
After  we  had  travelled  about  ten  miles,  we  were  informed 
that  the  teams  were  exhausted  and  that  we  would  be  obliged 
to  walk  the  balance  of  the  day  or  return  to  Sidney.  In  the 
trail  of  teams  better  fitted  than  ours,  we  walked  through  rain 
and  mud,  and  snow,  not  only  that  day,  but  all  of  the  succeed- 
ing days  until  we  reached  the  hills. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  23 

Our  entire  trip  was  one  of  hardship,  danger  and  priva- 
tion. Our  bedding  became  wet  and  our  nights  were  often 
spent  shivering  with  the  cold.  Often  our  attention  was 
called  to  the  bodies  of  men  killed  by  Indians.  They  were 
those  of  hunters  and  trappers  who  had  lost  their  lives  in  this 
huntsman's  paradise,  and  no  one  took  the  trouble  to  bury 
them.  The  remnants  of  burned  wagons,  pack  saddles  and 
camp  kettles  were  to  be  seen  at  almost  every  crossing. 

When  we  reached  Deadwood,  we  secured  shelter  at  fifty 
cents  each  in  a  small  stable.  We  slept  there  rather  comfort- 
ably. On  the  following  morning  we  went  to  the  postoffice 
and  took  our  positions  behind  a  line  of  men  half-a-mile  long, 
who  were  waiting  for  mail,  and  in  our  turn  at  the  window 
we  received  our  first  letters  from  home.  After  a  few  days 
in  Deadwood,  we  went  to  False  Bottom  and  started  mining, 
after  providing  a  grubstake  including  sugar  at  one  dollar 
per  pound,  evaporated  potatoes  at  one  dollar  per  pound,  ba- 
con at  one  dollar  per  pound  and  flour  at  fifty  dollars  per  fifty 
pounds. 

While  the  boys  were  getting  the  camp  started,  tents 
erected  and  the  cooking  utensils  ready,  I  shouldered  my  rifle 
and  started  for  the  woods.  A  fine  rain  was  falling.  I  went 
to  the  southern  ridge,  started  in  my  hunt  down  among  dead 
timber,  where  after  about  a  mile's  travel  I  came  to  a  blacktail 
sign.  While  I  was  carefully  scanning  every  tree  and  bush  I 
saw  a  large  pair  of  ears  rise  from  a  bed  of  moss  under  a 
large  pine  tree.  I  could  not  see  the  body  to  which  they  be- 
longed, but  I  thought  that  at  one  dollar  per  pound  they  rep- 
resented sufficient  value  to  bring  me  one  hundred  dollars.  I 
aimed  at  the  neck  beneath  and  fired. 

Instantly  a  beautiful  doe  started  down  the  ridge  at  a 
terriflic  speed.  I  threw  in  another  shell  as  quickly  as  possi- 
ble, and  as  she  bounded  away  I  shot  her  in  the  back.     She 


24  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

proved  to  be  a  prize,  and  I  soon  had  the  skin  off  the  fore- 
quarters.  I  cut  off  the  saddles  and  started  for  camp.  My 
comrades  hailed  me  with  delight  and  we  soon  had  a  feast  of 
venison.  Two  of  the  boys  brought  in  the  remainder  of  the 
deer,  and  I  made  a  rug  of  the  skin,  which  proved  to  be  very 
useful  in  my  after  travel. 

We  prospected  this  creek  and  found  extremely  fine  gold 
dust  but  no  pay  dirt.  Our  provisions  were  decreasing  and 
we  had  very  little  money  left.  Meantime  I  sharpened  miners' 
tools  until  I  had  earned  enough  money  to  fit  us  out  again. 
When  word  came  that  gold  had  been  struck  in  rich  deposits 
on  Wind  River  in  Montana,  as  miners  are  always  ready  to 
''stampede"  on  short  notice,  we  went  thither  with  the  crov/d, 
taking  with  us  a  year's  provisions. 


SITTING  BULL. 
War-Chief  of  the  Sioux. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  2^ 


CHAPTER  II. 


Indian  'Wabfari! — Sioux  massacres— horrible  mutilations — on  the  trail  of 
murderers— a  battle  with  the  Sioux— Indian  tricks— Nickerson  fires  first 
fatal  shot— eleven  Sioux  killed— "Calamity  Jane"— attacked  by  Indians— 
Randall's  successful  shot— fourteen  Sioux  lie  dead— we  pursue  our 
journey. 

Spearfish  was  our  objective  point,  and,  with  a  party  con- 
sisting of  thirty  miners,  we  pulled  out  of  False  Bottom  over 
a  road  which  never  had  been  worked.  We  arrived  at  Dead- 
wood  Corral,  halted  in  a  little  valley,  where  we  struck  a  camp 
and  began  our  preparations  for  the  great  trip  across  the 
plains.  Our  attention  was  presently  attracted  by  the  rapid 
firing  of  rifles,  and  we  soon  saw  that  a  party  of  whites  below 
us  in  the  valley  was  fighting  for  life,  against  great  odds, 
with  Sioux  Indians.  Curling  smoke  could  be  seen  and  we 
knew  the  prairie  had  been  set  on  fire.  Some  of  our  party 
started  to  the  rescue  as  fast  as  their  horses  could  bear  them, 
but  were  too  late  to  aid. 

Seven  men  and  one  woman  had  been  massacred.  They 
had  not  only  been  shot  and  scalped,,  but  their  ears  and  noses 
had  been  cut  off,  and  they  were  otherwise  mutilated  beyond 
recognition.  Powder  had  been  shot  into  their  faces  until 
all  possible  chance  of  identification  was  lost.  The  bodies 
were  hauled  into  camp  in  a  small  cart,  the  bed  of  which  was 
not  long  enough  to  hold  them.  Their  limbs  hung  down  and 
dangled  to  and  fro  as  the  vehicle  moved.     It  was  a  horrible 


28  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

sight.  I  vowed  that  I  would  be  one  to  follow  that  trail  of 
blood  until  we  had  avenged  the  death  of  these  emigrants. 
One  after  another,  with  blanched,  but  set  faces,  we  put 
down  our  names  on  a  paper,  until  twenty  had  volunteered  to 
avenge  the  innocent  people  who  had  met  such  a  fearful 
death.  It  was  a  determined  party  that  left  our  camp.  The 
trail  of  blood  was  two  hours  old,  but  our  horses  were  in 
good  condition  and  we  sped  down  the  valley  of  death.  We 
came  soon  to  the  dreadful  field  of  carnage.  The  wagon  had 
been  burned,  the  horses  killed  and  the  harnesses  cut  to  pieces. 
The  ground  was'  covered  with  clothes  and  stained  with 
blood  from  the  innocent  sufferers. 

The  Indians'  trail  led  off  in  the  direction  of  lower  Red 
Water  and  Hay  Creek,  and  on  this  track  we  started  at  a 
swift  gallop.  After  a  few  miles  of  silent  travel,  we  passed 
through  a  wooded  canyon.  Here  the  Indians  had  watered 
their  ponies  and  left  a  few  articles  of  no  value.  We  dis- 
mounted and  held  a  short  council  while  the  horses  drank 
from  the  rivulet.  We  decided  to  follow  and  surprise  the  sav- 
ages at  their  camp  for  the  night.  We  selected  two  of  our 
lightest  riders  to  skirt  the  stream  and  the  eastern  and  western 
hills,  in  order  to  get  the  course  they  were  traveling.  The 
remainder  of  our  party  kept  the  trail,  which  we  followed  at 
a  rapid  gait. 

About  twelve  o'clock  our  west  side  man  signalled  from 
a  butte.  We  were  soon  at  his  side  and  in  plain  view  of  a 
small  band  of  Indians.  From  the  direction  from  which  they 
came  we  could  not  determine  them  to  be  the  band  of  assas- 
sins whom  we  were  trailing.  However,  they  quartered  on 
the  same  creek  which  we  were  following  and,  as  they  dis- 
appeared over  the  steep  bank,  we  started  in  pursuit.  On 
nearing  the  water,  the  Indians  must  have  heard  the  thunder 
of  our  horses'  hoofs  as  we  rode  swiftly  down  the  valley,  for 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  29 

they  came  out  on  the  same  side  they  had  entered,  about  one 
hundred  yards  below  us.  We  at  once  sent  a  volley  of  bullets, 
and  two  Indians  swung  out  of  their  saddles.  Like  a  flash 
the  Indians  started  for  a  green  forest  far  down  the  valley, 
with  our  party  in  swift  pursuit.  Our  repeaters  were  making 
the  valley  ring  and  we  saw  another  warrior  writhing  in 
death.  But  at  this  point  the  Indians  swung  into  a  rough  ra- 
vine and  disappeared. 

We  followed  a  short  distance  and  found  blood  on  the 
trail,  whether  this  was  from  horse  or  rider  we  could  not  de- 
teriTHine,  but,  for  our  own  safety,  we  returned  and  scalped 
the  three  Indians,  who  were  laden  with  plunder  from  emi- 
grant trains.  Flour  and  sugar  were  found  on  one  warrior. 
We  soon  started  once  more  in  pursuit  of  those  who  had  es- 
caped us.  After  traveling  about  ten  miles  we  found  the  trail 
very  fresh.  Water  carried  on  to  the  bank  by  the  feet  of  the 
horses  was  not  yet  dry.  We  held  a  short  council,  then  sent 
out  scouts  with  field-glasses  to  search  for  the  savages.  At 
sundown  they  returned,  having  located  about  thirty  Indians 
in  a  camp  in  a  small  basin  in  the  valley  of  the  Red  Water. 
We  drew  as  near  their  camp  as  possible,  avoiding  all  chances 
of  being  discovered.  We  ate  a  lunch  and  then  Thomas  Nick- 
elson  and  myself  started  to  make  a  survey.  It  being  moon- 
light we  soon  located  the  camp,  where  the  savages  were  al- 
ready in  motion.  Their  camp  fires  still  smouldered.  We  fol- 
lowed them  about  a  mile  further  to  the  place  where  they 
went  into  camp  for  the  night.  This  camp-moving  is  an  old 
trick  of  the  Indians  to  deceive  their  enemies  and  to  induce 
them  to  make  a  charge  on  an  abandoned  camp.  Having  once 
more  assured  ourselves  of  their  location,  we  crept  softly 
away  and  soon  rejoined  our  comrades. 

We  planned  to  ''cache"  our  horses,  leave  five  good  men 
with  them,  while  fifteen  went  to  attack  the  camp.    We  knew, 


30  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

however,  that  we  should  be  compelled  to  exercise  continual 
vigilance.  John  Wustun,  Thomas  Nickelson  and  myself 
were  detailed  to  overlook  the  ground  and  make  the  final  ar- 
rangements for  the  attack.  Each  man,  with  a  magazine  rifle 
and  a  belt  full  of  cartridges,  crawled  up  to  within  fifty 
yards  of  the  camp.  We  found  the  Indians  in  the  mouth  of  a 
deep,  narrow  canyon,  their  horses  above  them  in  the  can- 
yon, which  made  it  impossible  for  the  animals  to  get  out 
without  passing  over  their  masters'  beds.  They  had  some 
fine  war-horses,  with  Pintos  and  sorrels  which  showed  good 
blood,  but  all  were  firmly  hobbled  and  picketed. 

Believing  that  we  had  secured  the  best  possible  location, 
Nickelson,  being  very  light  of  foot,  went  after  the  other 
boys.  The  Indians  were  cooking  and  not  a  word  could  be 
heard.  The  fires,  made  of  buffalo  chips,  whose  flame  re- 
sembles that  of  charcoal,  were  blinded  as  much  as  possible. 
After  the  savages  had  finished  their  supper  I  expected  to 
see  a  scalp  dance ;  but  in  this  I  was  disappointed,  for  they  no 
doubt  felt  it  more  prudent  to  wait  until  their  return  home, 
when  all,  old  and  young,  male  and  female,  might  mingle  in 
the  jollity,  while  the  sounds  of  the  tomtom  would  keep  time 
to  the  fiendish  actions  and  the  "Hey,  hey,  a  hey,  hey,  a  hey !" 
so  curdling  to  the  blood  of  a  white  person. 

I  could  plainly  see  the  goods  taken  from  the  emigrant's 
wagon,  and  the  sight  made  me  run  my  hand  along  the  barrel 
of  my  rifle  to  clear  all  obstacles  and  push  a  cartridge  care- 
fully home.  I  knew  it  would  not  be  long  until  they  would 
begin  to  look  after  their  horses  and  prepare  to  sleep.  We 
occupied  the  point  just  over  the  canyon  on  the  south,  where 
we  held  the  party  of  Indians  in  full  view,  although  we  could 
not  see  them  as  well  as  we  desired,  for  they  glided  around 
stealthily,  sometimes  appearing  in  the  shadows  like  wild  ani- 
mals.    Our  party  soon  came  up  eager  for  the  attack.     One 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  3 1 

gaunt  warrior  started  in  the  direction  of  the  horses  with  a 
bundle  of  something  which  I  took  for  bedding ;  as  he  passed 
a  blazing  fire  Thomas  Nickelson  sent  a  bullet  through  his 
brutal  heart.  Fifteen  rifles  rang  out  simultaneously.  Fire 
flew  and  horses  plunged  headlong  through  camp,  while  volley 
after  volley  was  sent  after  the  Indians.  It  was  sometime  be- 
fore they  got  out  of  our  range  and  a  deadly  fire  was  kept  up 
until  they  reached  the  north  side,  where  they  began  to  return 
our  fire.  When  one  of  their  rifles  flashed  we  sent  fifteen  bul- 
lets after  it.  I  do  not  think  two  shots  came  from  the  same 
spot.  I  received  a  wound  in  the  foot,  and  Nickelson's  arm 
was  shot  through  the  fleshy  part  near  the  shoulder.  Wustun 
had  his  hat-rim  cut  off  by  a  bullet  which  made  a  terrific 
noise.  We  could  hear  the  Sioux  tearing  through  the  bushes 
and  dry  leaves,  but  they  were  soon  past  our  range,,  and  we 
hastened  back  to  camp  on  another  branch  of  the  creek.  We 
then  placed  onr  horses  on  good  feed,  for  on  the  following 
day  we  had  a  long  ride  before  us.  After  stationing  guards, 
we  lay  down  to  rest.  Thus  closed  one  of  the  hardest  day's 
work  of  my  life. 

We  awoke  at  the  gray  of  morning  and  our  men  were 
soon  ready  to  resume  their  journey.  After  a  breakfast  of 
salt  pork  and  dried  buffalo  meat,  we  examined  the  battlefield. 
Several  men  stood  guard  on  the  bluff,  while  the  remainder 
searched  every  foot  of  ground  in  the  vicinity.  The  bodies 
of  eleven  Indians  and  fifteen  horses  were  discovered.  It  was 
not  strange  that  some  scalps  were  taken,  for  our  watchword 
was  "Vengeance."  We  followed  the  trail  a  short  distance.  It 
lead  away  from  Spearfish,  and,  as  we -were  already  in  the 
midst  of  a  savage  tribe,  with  no  provisions  and  tired  horses, 
we  left  this  desolate  spot  and  started  for  Spearfish.  We 
knew  that  some  of  Uncle  Sam's  wards  would  not  return  to 
the  agency  for  their  rations  on  the  next  issue-day.     These 


32  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

were  the  petted  warriors  under  Sitting  Bull,  Rain-in-the- 
Face,  and  Gaul,  who  were  stationed  at  Red  Cloud  Agency, 
and  by  a  lenient  government  permitted  to  ride  the  plains 
and  murder  emigrants. 

At  Spearfish  we  were  to  rejoin  our  main  party,  which 
was  there  in  camp.  We  started  across  a  country  looking  beau- 
tiful with  the  advent  of  spring.  The  rich  grass  was  matted 
on  the  earth  and  pine  trees  dotted  the  landscape.  Parks  were 
numerous  and  the  antelopes  roamed  over  a  thousand  hills, 
while  the  huge  buffaloes  in  great  herds  wandered  carelessly 
about,  scarcely  noticing  our  presence.  We  made  a  hard  ride 
and  reached  Spearfish  about  dark,  for  we  had  lost  the  route 
and  had  gone  out  of  our  way.  As  we  passed  up  the  valley 
we  were  surprised  to  see  a  white  woman  riding  toward  us  at 
full  gallop  and  leading  a  pack.  We  suspected  that  it  was 
"Calamity  Jane"  and  pulled  up  as  she  approached. 

'^How !  How !"  said  she,  "Where  are  you  fellows  go- 
ing?" "To  Spearfish,"  we  answered.  "Well,  you  had  better 
get  to  Red  Water  Crossing,  because  there  is  a  party  there 
corraled  by  Indians,  and  there  are  some  women  in  the 
bunch.  I  would  go  with  you,  boys,  but  I  have  this  dispatch 
to  take  to  Custer  City.  Take  that  trail  and  follow  my 
tracks  and  you  are  all  right."  Nickelson  declared  that  he 
must  go  to  Spearfish  to  get  a  fresh  horse,  and  would  follow 
and  meet  us  at  daybreak.  John  Wustun  and  Grizzly  Bill  of- 
fered to  go  with  him.  We  arranged  our  plans  to  meet  at 
dawn,  for  we  knew  that  there  would  be  trouble. 

Calamity  Jane  was  a  noted  female  scout  of  the  western 
frontier  from  1870,  her  daring  intrepidity,  her  rapidity  of 
movement  and  her  deadly  skill  with  firearms,,  as  well  as  the 
qualities  she  displayed  as  a  rider,  causing  the  Indians  to 
consider  her  as  possessed  of  supernatural  powers.  She  was 
given  her  doleful   name   in    1872,  by   Captain   Egan,   then 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  33 

commander  of  the  U.  S.  army  post  at  Goose  Creek,  whose 
Hfe  she  saved.  The  captain  was  shot  in  an  Indian  fight 
and  was  in  danger  of  death,  when  the  brave  female  scout 
appeared  on  her  horse,  shot  the  Indian  nearest  the  captain, 
and,  picking  up  the  wounded  and  unconscious  officer,  she 
placed  him  in  front  of  her  on  the  horse  and  carried  him  to 
the  fort,  uninjured  by  the  shots  of  the  other  hostiles.  When 
Captain  Egan  learned  of  his  rescue,  he  said  to  his  preser- 
ver :  ''You  are  a  good  person  to  have  around  in  time  of  ca- 
lamity, and  I  now  christen  you  Calamity  Jane,  the  heroine 
of  the  plains." 

Col.  W.  I.  Cody  (Buffalo  Bill)  tells  this  story,  which  I 
give  to  illustrate  the  character  of  this  brave  woman,  who 
did  so  much  for  the  safety  of  the  whites  in  pioneer  days. 
She  was  only  fitted  for  a  wild  and  adventurous  life  and 
closed  her  eyes  in  death  in  the  summer  of  1903. 

''In  1876  this  daring  woman  by  a  most  courageous 
action  saved  the  lives  of  six  passengers  on  a  stagecoach 
traveling  from  Deadwood,  S.  D.,  to  Wild  Birch,  in  the  Black 
Hills  country.  The  stage  was  surrounded  by  Indians,,  and 
the  driver,  Jack  McCaul,  was  wounded  by  an  arrow.  Al- 
though the  other  six  passengers  were  men,  not  one  of 
them  had  nerve  enough  to  take  the  ribbons.  Seeing  the  sit- 
uation, Jane  mounted  the  driver's  seat  without  a  moment's 
hesitation,  and  brought  the  stage  safely  and  in  good  time 
to  Wild  Birch.  Jack  McCaul  afterward  recovered,  and 
some  time  later,  while  in  Deadwood,  he  assassinated  Wild 
Bill,  one  of  Calamity  Jane's  best  friends.  The  murder  was 
a  cold-blooded  one,  and  it  was  the  general  opinion  that 
lynching  was  only  too  mild  for  him.  Calamity  Jane  was  in 
the  lead  of  the  lynching  party,  and  it  was  she  who  captured 
the  desperado.  She  had  left  her  rifle  at  home,  but  with  a 
butcher's  cleaver  she  held  him  up,  and  a  very  few  minutes 


34  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

later  McCaul's  body  was  swinging  from  a  cottonwood  tree 
and  his  soul  had  passed  over  the  great  divide." 

We  rode  into  camp,  where  the  story  of  the  eleven  dead 
Indians  was  not  referred  to,  for  we  well  knew  that  there 
were  several  persons  who  would  go  no  further  if  the  truth 
was  told.  Red  Water  Crossing  was  twenty  miles  away  and 
we  knew  that  it  would  be  necessary  to  rest,  procure  some- 
thing to  eat  and  have  our  wounds  dressed  before  doing  any- 
thing else.  I  cut  my  boot  from  my  foot,  washed  and  dressed 
the  wound,  replacing  the  boot  with  a  Sioux  moccasin. 

After  supper  we  secured  twenty  recruits  and  started  at 
twelve  o'clock  for  Red  Water.  This  was  a  hard  ride  and 
several  times  I  fell  asleep  in  the  saddle.  But  we  pressed  on 
and  at  last  found  ourselves  in  the  breaks  of  the  river.  The 
red  hills  of  this  country  resemble  those  of  the  limestone  hills 
found  in  the  East  and  Southwest.  We  were  now  on  danger- 
ous ground,  as  our  camp  was  at  the  Crossing  and  Indians 
were  on  every  side,  therefore  no  time  was  to  be  lost.  The 
birds  were  chirping  for  the  dawn  and  the  wooded  fringe  of 
the  creek  began  to  become  discernible  as  we  passed  on  in 
silence.  Coyotes  were  prowling  around  and  their  chorus 
was  almost  as  blood-curdling  as  the  song  of  the  Sioux 
scalp-dancers. 

We  beheld  at  this  point  a  blue  smoke  curling  upward, 
close  to  the  valley  through  which  we  were  riding,  and  we  felt 
sure  that  this  must  indicate  the  presence  of  the  party  we 
were  to  meet.  By  peering  closely  I  could  see  Nickelson  in 
the  uncertain  light,  eating  what  later  proved  to  be  buffalo 
steak.  We  approached  the  fire  and  were  heartily  welcomed. 
Nickelson  came  forward  with  a  blessing  and  assured  us  that 
we  were  none  too  soon.  Our  horses,  not  being  needed  for  the 
present,  were  put  with  the  rest  of  the  animals  and  a  strong 
guard  set  around  them.     We  were  soon  eating,  and  I  shall 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  35 

ever  remember  with  gratification  the  buffalo  marrow-bones 
and  the  bread  which  Mr.  Nickelson  had  prepared  for  us. 
Our  time  was  precious,  but  we  ate  heartily. 

Presently  Tom  drew  me  aside  and  said  he  had  some- 
thing to  show  me.  We  went  behind  the  wagon  where  he 
pointed  out  to  me  the  bullet  holes  made  in  the  attack  of  the 
day  before.  He  said  that  the  Indians  had  been  signalling  in 
the  early  part  of  the  night,  and  that  his  wife  maintained  that 
they  had  been  reinforced  since  dark.  From  the  manner  they 
had  made  the  attack  yesterday  on  the  knoll  across  the  creek, 
he  said  he  had  learned  there  was  only  one  break  where  they 
could  get  down ;  that  we  would  command  that  place  and  at 
the  same  timie  protect  the  camp.  It  was  fast  growing  gray 
and  we  knew  that  very  soon  we  would  be  the  probable  sub- 
jects of  attack.  Every  sign  of  our  horses  and  of  every  per- 
son was  securely  hidden,  in  order  to  give  the  impression  that 
we  were  unprepared.  We  "cached"  twenty  of  our  men  op- 
posite the  mouth  of  the  break  to  await  results.  The  remain- 
ing men  were  stationed  to  protect  the  camp  and  horses. 

The  chirps  of  the  early  songsters  were  now  heard,  and 
the  eastern  horizon  began  to  illuminate  the  plains  stretching 
toward  Centennial  Prairie  and  Red  Canyon.  All  of  us  were 
impatient ;  some  were  murmuring  about  the  wet  grass ;  oth- 
ers decided  that  no  attack  could  be  made.  The  time  wore  on 
and  the  great  calm  which  precedes  a  storm  enveloped  us.  Not 
a  leaf  stirred.  The  wolves  had  skulked  away  with  the  coming 
of  day.  At  last  I  thought  I  could  hear  the  rumbling  of  foot- 
steps. Soon  there  was  no  doubt  about  the  sound,  which 
came  nearer,  clearer  than  before.  ''Let  every  man  be  ready 
and  do  not  fire  until  you  see  the  color  of  their  eyes,"  said 
Nickelson. 

Just  at  this  moment  a  yell  broke  on  the  air  and  the 
brow  of  the  hill  was  covered  with  warriors,  each  one  striving 


36  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

to  outstrip  his  comrades,  leaning  forward  on  his  war  horse. 
Our  boys  lay  flat  in  the  grass,  as  silent  as  death.  The  un- 
earthly yells  pierced  our  very  hearts  and  when  the  Indians 
were  within  seventy  yards  of  us,  Thomas  Randall,  of  Chi- 
cago, sent  the  first  ball  from  his  Remington  rifle  45 ,,105. 
This  was  followed  by  nineteen  deadly  bullets  of  all  sizes. 

We  sprang  to  our  feet  in  a  cloud  of  blue  smoke,  and, 
as  we  all  had  repeaters,  there  was  one  blaze  of  fire.  Horses 
were  rolling  down  upon  us,  and  the  report  of  rifles  was  deaf- 
ening. One  Indian  who  had  determined  to  die  on  the  field, 
or  who  could  not  manage  his  horse,  rushed  toward  Nickel- 
son  and  myself.  He  was  nude  and  his  hair  was  streaming 
in  the  air.  Our  two  rifles  crashed  and  he  fell  forward,  but 
raised  again  and  fired  a  carbine  at  my  face.  Fortunatelv 
for  me,  I  was  only  powder-burned,  and  he  fell  to  the  earth. 

The  Indians  were  gone  as  quickly  as  they  came.  The 
smoke  cleared  away  and  around  us  lay  fourteen  Sioux  war- 
riors, five  dead  horses  and  three  with  broken  legs.  These  we 
shot.  We  held  a  council  and  decided  that  if  the  news  of  this 
affair  should  reach  the  Red  Cloud  Agency  we  would  be 
speedily  annihilated  by  overwhelming  numbers  of  Sioux. 
A  deep  washout  was  near  at  hand,  so  horses  and  Indians 
were  dumped  in  and  covered  with  bushes  and  old  dead  sage. 
Passing  on  our  way  we  soon  found  two  trappers  and  their 
burned  wagons.  From  Red  Canyon  to  Centennial  Prairie 
and  Pumpkin  Buttes  half -burned  bones  and  wagons,  dead 
horses  and  camp  requirements  were  strewed  about  wihere 
scores  of  men  had  yielded  up  their  lives  to  the  deadly  attacks 
of  the  Sioux  and  the  Cheyennes. 

We  felt  that  the  best  thing  for  us  to  do  was  to  return 
to  Spearfish,  and  there  organize  a  strong  train,  which  should 
be  well  armed,  or  give  up  the  trip,  so  dangerous  with  lurk- 
ing foes  at  every  point.     Our  plan  of  operations  we  voted 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  37 

to  keep  secret,  and,  as  far  as  possible,  was  to  be  concealed 
from  the  entire  train,  for  we  well  knew  that  the  women 
would  all  refuse  to  proceed  if  the  worst  were  known.  From 
now  on  the  utmost  secrecy  was  to  be  practiced  and  all  of  our 
night  rides  were  to  be  attributed  to  the  prospecting  for  gold 
and  mining  fields. 

We  returned  to  camp,  partook  of  a  splendid  breakfast 
and  immediately  set  out  for  Spearfish,  where  we  met  our 
friends  and  were  given  a  warm  welcome.  The  remainder 
of  the  day  was  spent  in  organizing  for  the  trip  to  the  Big 
Horn  country.  Two  hundred  and  fifty  people  were  gathered 
by  the  time  our  party  returned.  But  the  memory  of  those 
who  had  been  killed  gave  an  unfortunate  aspect  to  affairs, 
for  when  we  mustered  all  who  would  go,  we  numbered  only 
one  hundred  and  fifty  persons,  with  only  fifty-six  wagons. 
Enough  for  a  good  company,  if  all  would  stand  together. 


38  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 


CHAPTER  III, 


Crossing  the  Plains— Enroute  for  old  Fort  Kearney— Allen  elected  general 
— horse  thieves— organization  and  discipline— life  in  camp — Indian  camps 
seen— double  guards  put  out— personnel  of  company— first  sight  of  the 
Rockies— on  Mount  Zion— wild  country— first  deer  hunt— Grizzly  Bill- 
grouse— Powder  River— fishing— at  old  Fort  Kearney— the  Fetterman 
massacre. 

We  Started  once  more  for  Red  Water  Crossing,  led  by 
Colonel  Beard,  of  Nebraska,  a  brave,  unselfish  man,  a  splen- 
did looking  fellow,  six  feet  three  inches  in  height.  At 
this  crossing  a  part  of  our  train  had  a  short  skirmish  with 
Indians,  and  five  of  our  men  were  killed.  The  country  was 
all  alive  with  the  savages.  Each  day  brought  us  news 
of  fresh  massacres.  We  stayed  at  the  crossing  one  day  to 
discuss  and  decide  upon  the  best  means  of  checkmating  the 
enemy,  who  threatened  to  be  a  terrible  peril  to  us.  A  dis- 
pute arose  among  the  men,  and,  as  some  would  not  listen 
to  reason,  Colonel  Beard  resigned  the  command.  One  after 
another  was  selected  to  fill  the  vacancy,  but  all  shrank  from 
the  responsibility.  Death  lurked  on  every  hand.  Some  of 
our  own  men,  by  reason  of  their  insubordination,  threatened 
to  become  troublesome.  The  situation  was  a  perilous  one, 
any  one  assuming  charge  of  the  train  would  have  a  great  re- 
sponsibility on  his  shoulders. 

At  this  point  John  Wustun  mounted  an  old  wagon  and 
called  the  attention  of  the  crowd.  "We  are  in  a  dangerous 
country,"  he  said,  "  and  there  are   twenty   men   here  who 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  39 

have  tested  the  abiHty  of  a  certain  man  in  this  company  to 
lead  this  train  to  its  destination.  We  have  tried  him  on  Red 
Water  and  on  Hay  Creek,  and  I  move  that  W.  A.  Allen  be 
elected  by  this  train  as  general,  to  have  full  control,  each 
member  bearing  his  part  of  what  ever  befalls." 

The  vote  was  taken  and  was  almost  unanimous  in  my 
favor,  women  also  were  allowed  to  vote.  I  arose,  thanked 
the  members  of  the  party  for  the  honor,  told  them  I  would 
willingly  share  the  fate  of  my  brave  comrades,  but  that 
there  were  old  plainsmen  in  the  company,  one  of  whom,  I 
felt,  should  have  the  honor  conferred  upon  him.  Besides  this, 
I  had  no  suitable  horse  on  which  to  look  after  the  duties  of  a 
company  such  as  ours.  Thomas  Nickelson  led  forward  a 
superb  saddle-horse  and  said  that  it  was  mine  for  the  trip. 
Thus  the  matter  ended  and  work  began. 

In  our  party  two  secret  organizations  existed,  both  of 
which  I  knew.  One  was  designed  to  look  after  Indians  and 
to  deal  with  them  according  to  the  standard  of  the  West. 
The  other  was  an  organized  band  of  horse  thieves.  This  last 
organization  was  the  more  difficult  to  watch,  but,  as  I  had 
taken  place  in  command,  I  intended  to  control  these  masters 
so  long  as  I  acted  in  the  capacity  of  leader.  Organization 
and  discipline  were  the  two  principles  which  must  be  en- 
forced to  the  letter. 

My  first  move  was  to  cut  our  train  into  four  divisions, 
the  first  one,  captained  by  John  Wustun,  of  Chicago,  a  gen- 
eral favorite,  and  a  man  already  tried  and  found  to  be 
staunch  and  trustworthy.  The  second  division  was  placed 
under  Captain  J.  Patton,  of  Sioux  City.  Mr.  Patton  was  a 
shrewd  person,  keen  of  observation,  always  jolly,  who  under- 
stood his  men  well.  Hiram  Bishoff,  who  was  placed  in 
charge  of  the  third  division,  was  brave  and  courageous,  al- 
ways watchful  of  his  trust.     Division  four  was  a  splendid 


40  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

lot  of  fellows,  whose  captain  was  Samuel  Houston,  of  Texas, 
a  grizzly  bear  in  the  fight,  always  ready  with  his  old  Haw- 
kins rifle,  which  never  left  his  side. 

Our  train  now  started  without  a  hitch,  and  we  had  little 
pack-outfit,  led  by  Charles  Blackburn,  the  poet  scout.  When 
we  made  our  first  camp  I  received  some  instructions  in 
camping  from  Nickelson.  At  his  suggestion,  fifty-six  wag- 
ons formed  a  corral  by  putting  the  tongue  of  each  on  the 
inner  side  and  the  front  wheel  inside  of  the  hind  wheel  of 
the  forward  wagon,  thus  making  a  deadlock  not  easily 
moved.  Thus  our  stock  was  enclosed,  and,  early  the  follow- 
ing morning,,  while  the  outfit  was  preparing  to  start,  I  gave 
an  order  for  the  guards  to  shoot  any  person  seen  inside  of 
the  corral  after  the  retiring  hour.  In  this  way  our  horse 
thieves  were  checkmated  and  they  never  secured  the  stock 
which  they  sought.  I  then  started  off  for  a  moment  to  take 
a  view  of  the  surrounding  country.  I  saw  five  large  buttes, 
which  raised  their  heads  like  sentinels,  overlooking  the  ver- 
dant valley,  which  is  about  one  mile  in  width  and  is  a  good 
grazing  district.  Red  Water  takes  its  name  from  the  color 
of  the  earth  through  which  it  flows. 

A  hard  day's  drive  brought  us  to  the  headwaters  of  the 
Red  Water.  We  settled  our  camp  in  a  beautiful  spot  sur- 
rounded by  high  hills.  There  was  plenty  of  wood  and  pure 
cold  water  at  hand.  After  the  heat  and  toil  of  the  day  it 
seemed  a  little  paradise.  We  felt  all  of  that  sweet  comfort 
and  content  that  the  weary  man  of  business  feels,  when,  in 
dressing-gown  and  slippers,  he  throws  himself  into  an  easy- 
chair  before  the  cheerful  fire,  to  rest  from  his  day's  labor. 
The  camp  had  the  appearance  of  a  theater,  where  all  were 
eagerly  performing  their  respective  parts. 

Suddenly  the  music  of  a  violin  and  a  guitar,  touched 
by  skillful  fingers,  broke  upon  the  stillness  of  the  evening. 


WHITE-TAIL  DOE  AND  FAWN. 


fw 

1^  !■■ 

1    iM 

pp^-i" 

<l 

rt|| 

B        « *" 

ANTELOPES. 
Photographed  From  Life. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  43 

All  conversation  was  suspended.  The  music  and  quiet  were 
in  perfect  harmony  with  the  scene  around  us.  The  most 
hardened  men  among  us  were  touched  and  soothed. 
Women  and  children  wandered  aimlessly  over  the  carpet  of 
buffalo  bunch-grass,  drinking  in  the  sweet  melody.  Some 
of  our  men  saw  smoke  curling  through  the  air,  and  reported 
two  Indian  camps  not  far  off.  We  put  out  a  double  guard 
for  the  night  and  rested  securely.  Our  route,  as  far  as  we 
could  see,  now  lay  over  a  fertile  country,  covered  with  veg- 
etation. 

We  soon  found  out  that  things  were  not  as  they  had 
looked  from  a  distance ;  here  and  there  were  barren  tracts. 
While  passing  through  a  small  district,  covered  with  scrub 
oak,  four  white-tail  deer  (cervus  Virginianus)  came  bound- 
ing through  the  bushes.  Several  shots  were  sent  after  them. 
All  was  excitement.  They  came  closer  and  closer  until  they 
were  within  two  hundred  yards,  when  I  drew  my  45-60 
Winchester,  took  aim  at  a  large  buck  and  missed  him  entire- 
ly. I  made  a  second  trial  and  broke  his  hind  leg.  Down 
he  came,  but  gathered  himself  up  again  and  went  hobbling 
off  into  a  ravine,  dense  with  oak.  A  young  man  followed 
and  shot  him  through  the  head.  We  had  a  good  supper  of 
venison  and  lingered  over  it  for  about  two  hours.  We  spent 
the  remainder  of  the  evening  having  a  good,  social  time, 
visiting  and  becoming  better  acquainted  with  one  another. 

We  made  the  acquaintance  of  all  the  ladies :  Mrs.  Mar- 
ble and  her  daughters,  Ella  and  Mollie ;  Mrs.  Reed,  who  kept 
the  homesick  and  discouraged  ones  roaring  with  laughter 
in  spite  of  themselves ;  anyone  determined  to  have  the 
blues  had  to  shun  her  society ;  Mrs.  Nickelson,  who  was 
braving  frontier  life  with  her  husband ;  Mrs.  Chamberlain 
and  her  little  daughter,  who  was  a  great  pet  with  all ;  Mrs. 
Burnstein,  who  was  in  company  with  her  husband,  and  Mrs. 


44  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

Lyons.  Among  the  men  were  lawyers,  doctors,  dentists, 
carpenters,  blacksmiths,  shoemakers — all  kind  of  profes- 
sional men  and  mechanics.  We  had  also  two  traveling  sa- 
loons, cows,  chickens,,  and  everything  necessary  to  establish 
a  first-class  colony. 

We  were  climbing  a  high  hill,  overlooking  a  vast  coun- 
try. With  our  field-glasses  we  saw,  about  ten  miles  off,  a 
small  party  of  Indians,  loaded  with  plunder.  I  longed  to 
get  hold  of  them  and  relieve  them  of  their  burdens,  but  it 
would  have  been  folly  to  try  to  overtake  them,,  so  we  moved 
leisurely  upward,  mounting  higher  and  higher,  until  we 
landed  on  Belle  Fourche  Heights,  which  we  chose  to  call 
Mt.  Zion.  Here  is  a  wonderful  lookout.  With  the  aid  of 
our  glasses  from  this  elevation  we  sighted  the  great  Sugar- 
Loaf  monument,  standing  clear  and  white  in  the  sunshine. 
Our  pleasurable  excitement  was  still  further  augmented 
when  we  beheld,  for  the  first  time,  the  snow-capped  peaks 
of  the  grand  old  Rockies.  From  boyhood  I  had  looked 
forward  to  this  moment.  I  had  longed  passionately  for  a 
glimpse  of  these  mountains  and  of  the  game  that  inhabits 
their  fastnesses.  I  had  read  and  heard  much  of  them,  and 
vowed  to  myself  that  when  I  became  a  man  I  would  visit 
them. 

Now  that  I  really  beheld  them,  though  a  long  way  off, 
I  could  not  withdraw  my  gaze.  As  the  sun  poured  down  its 
fiery  rays,,  the  snow  upon  their  summits  gleamed  like  great 
diamonds.  Off  to  the  northwest  lay  the  gliding  Belle 
Fourche,  twisting  and  writhing  like  a  serpent  in  its  winding 
bed ;  the  current  was  almost  stopped  with  innumerable 
beaver  dams.  On  the  north  the  rimrock  stretched  far  away, 
shelves  of  sand  rock  projecting  far  out  over  the  stream, 
which  is  thickly  fringed  with  spruce  and  hemlock.  I  stood 
lost  in  contemplation  of  the  scene,  when  a  voice  behind  me 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  45 

asked,  "Are  you  in  a  trance?"  I  turned  and  Miss  Marble 
stood  beside  me.  She  reminded  me  that  it  was  time  for 
the  evening  repast,  and  invited  me  to  sup  with  her  family. 
I  was  glad  to  once  more  partake  of  food  prepared  by  ex- 
perienced hands.  The  table  fairly  groaned  with  good 
things — warm  biscuits,  maple  syrup,  fried  venison  and  other 
dainties  that  we,  who  had  not  our  wives  with  us,  had  not 
tasted  for  a  long  time. 

At  this  point  upon  Mt.  Zion  some  of  the  men  declared 
their  intention  of  pulling  out  by  themselves,  saying  they 
would  not  travel  so  slowly ;  that  they  could  easily  make  thir- 
ty miles  a  day,  while  we  were  making  from  twenty  to  twen- 
ty-five. This  was  the  first  trouble  that  we  had  had  among 
ourselves  since  leaving  Red  Water.  I  determined  to  put  a 
stop  to  it  at  once,  and  for  good.  My  position  was  a  trying 
one  at  best,  and  I  would  not  be  annoyed  by  complaints  all 
along  the  road.  We  were  traveling  as  fast  as  the  endurance 
of  our  horses  would  permit.  It  would  not  be  prudent  to 
wear  them  out  with  the  greater  part  of  the  journey  still  be- 
fore us. 

I  said  nothing  until  we  were  ready  to  break  camp  in  the 
morning.  I  then  called  the  attention  of  the  grumblers,,  and 
told  them  I  knew  of  the  threats  that  had  been  made  and 
would  now  give  one  half-hour  for  all  who  were  dissatisfied  to 
pull  out,  but  that  all  who  left  us  now,  positively  should  not 
join  us  at  any  future  time.  The  half-hour  passed.  No 
one  had  made  a  move.  In  this  way  the  dispute  was  set- 
tled and  we  heard  no  more  of  it  during  the  trip. 

That  morning  I  left  Wustun  in  charge  and  galloped  on 
ahead  to  reconnoiter  and,  if  possible,  to  bring  in  some  game. 
I  drove  the  spurs  in  Charlie's  flanks  and  started  him  into 
a  swift  lope  down  a  deep  cut  canyon.  I  soon  encountered 
abrupt  rocks,  almost  impossible  to  pass,  and  was  obliged 


46  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

to  slacken  my  speed.  I  urged  Charlie  onward  with  voice 
and  spurs ;  the  noble  animal  escaped  with  but  few  scratches. 
Going  up  the  deep  cut  in  the  hill,  the  tracks  of  a  large  bear 
attracted  my  attention,  but  it  was  impossible  to  follow  them. 
When  I  had  gone  about  five  miles  the  canyon  became  fear- 
fully dark  and  deep ;  the  place  presented  an  unearthly  as- 
pect. Here  and  there  a  large  bird  would  rise,  flap  its  wings 
and  fly  slowly  up  the  gorge.  My  horse  was  worn  out  and 
would  not  go  without  repeated  urging.  The  overhanging 
rocks,  the  tall  green  pines,  the  damp  atmosphere  filled  me 
with  a  sort  of  supernatural  dread. 

The  large,  vulture-like  birds  kept  circling  around  over- 
head, causing  a  shudder  to  pass  over  me.  I  made  every  en- 
deavor to  find  a  way  out  of  this  loathsome  den.  I  found 
a  mountain-sheep  trail  winding  among  the  rocks,  over  brush 
and  fallen  trees,  which  I  followed  until  I  came  to  a  perpen- 
dicular rock  five  feet  high.  It  seemed  utterly  impossible  to 
scale  this  rock  with  my  horse,  but  I  determined  to  make  a 
trial  rather  than  retrace  my  way.  My  good  horse  tried 
to  make  the  leap,  but  fell  back.  I  think  he  was  as  anxious 
as  myself  to  escape  from  the  canyon.  I  took  a  long  picket- 
rope  from  my  saddle,  climbed  to  the  top  of  the  rock  by  hold- 
ing on  to  shrubs,  passed  the  rope  around  a  large  pine  tree, 
and,  with  the  end  in  my  hand,  made  my  way  below.  I  gave 
Charlie  a  tap  with  a  stick,  and,  when  he  made  a  leap,I  pulled 
with  all  my  might  upon  the  rope  that  was  fastened  to  him. 
To  my  joy,  I  landed  him  on  the  rock  and  was  not  long  in 
joining  him. 

I  found  myself  on  a  high  plateau.  Vegetation  was 
alive.  Bunch  grass  and  wild  oats  were  here  growing  in 
abundance.  Deer  tracks  and  sheep  signs  were  to  be  seen 
all  around.  I  took  a  survey  of  the  country  while  Charlie 
got  square  with  the  oats.     I   was  at  least  ten  miles  from 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  47 

camp,  in  one  of  the  worst  Indian  countries  along  the  route. 
I  might  be  attacked  by  Indians  at  any  moment,  and,  tired 
as  were  both  my  horse  and  myself,  we  would  stand  a  poor 
chance  of  escaping.  I  started  out  to  rejoin  the  train.  A 
distance  of  about  five  miles  brought  me  into  a  barren  re- 
gion, covered  with  sagebrush  and  alkali.  This  is  one  of  the 
peculiarities  of  a  mountainous  country — here  and  there  a 
strip  of  fertile  soil,  sometimes  covered  with  beautiful  flowers, 
surrounded  by  barren  earth,  like  an  oasis  in  the  desert. 

It  required  all  of  my  powers  of  persuasion  to  induce 
my  horse  to  struggle  through  this  dense  undergrowth. 
While  crossing  a  little  ravine,  I  saw  a  large  doe  standing 
about  one  hundred  yards  off,,  on  a  shelf  of  rock  just  above 
a  precipice  twenty  feet  high.  I  drew  my  rifle,  fired  quickly 
and  did  not  touch  a  hair.  Disgusted  with  myself,  I  dis- 
mounted, threw  in  another  cartridge,  drew  a  hard  bead  for 
her  heart  and  shot.  She  bounded  over  the  ledge  and  disap- 
peared. I  took  a  look  for  Indians,  tied  Charlie  to  a  tree, 
and  prepared  to  follow  her.  There  was  no  way  to  do  this 
but  to  climb  down  a  fir-tree,  and  it  was  beyond  my  reach. 
By  placing  one  end  of  a  small  log  on  the  ledge  and  the  other 
in  the  forks  of  the  tree  I  was  enabled  to  make  the  descent. 
The  doe  lay  close  to  the  ledge.  She  had  made  but  one  leap, 
shot  through  the  heart.  I  lost  no  time  in  securing  the  hams, 
strapped  them  to  my  saddle  and  pushed  on. 

When  I  reached  the  first  coulee,  I  found  fresh  pony 
tracks.  Much  distressed  in  mind,  I  followed  them,  for  I 
guessed  from  their  direction,,  that  savages  were  following 
our  train,  and  did  not  know  what  might  have  happened  dur- 
ing my  absence.  I  soon  saw  a  party  of  the  miscreants  in 
camp,  on  the  side  of  a  hill.  I  took  a  peep  at  them  through 
my  glasses.  While  watching  their  actions  there  appeared  to 
be,  all  at  once,  a  great  commotion.     They  started  to  their 


48  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

feet,  seized  their  guns  and  commenced  shooting  just  over 
the  ridge.  A  few  shots  were  returned.  I  guessed  that  they 
v/ere  firing  at  some  of  our  men,  for  their  actions  did  not  in- 
dicate that  they  were  after  game.  Unseen  by  them,  I  gave 
them  a  volley  of  five  well-directed  shots.  At  that  moment 
Grizzly  Bill  (as  we  had  nicknamed  him)  came  dashing 
past  on  his  little  charger,  like  a  bird  on  the  wing.  He  alone 
had  borne  the  fire  of  the  enemy.  I  did  not  stop  to  see  what 
effect  my  shots  had  had,  but  their  cries  told  that  some  of  the 
bullets  had  not  missed  their  mark.  They  discontinued  the 
fray,  dragging  their  effects  out  of  sight. 

Night  was  now  coming  on  apace.  I  had  been  wander- 
ing around  since  early  morn,  and  was  still  some  distance 
from  home,  for  which  I  made  a  bee  line,  directed  by  the 
smoke  of  the  campfires.  When  I  arrived  there  I  found  that 
I  had  been  given  up  for  dead.  Mitten  felt  sure  that  I  had 
been  scalped  by  Indians,  and  was  thinking  how  he  had  best 
break  the  news  to  my  family.  He  had  long  before  prophe- 
sied that  my  recklessness  would  sooner  or  later  lead  me  to 
my  death.  After  eating  a  lonely  meal,  for  it  was  long  past 
the  supper  hour,  I  felt  as  well  as  ever. 

Just  as  we  were  starting  out  in  the  morning,  a  white- 
tail  fawn  as  spotted  as  a  leopard  crossed  the  road  in  front 
of  us.  "Now  for  a  race,  Charlie !"  I  said,  and  away  we  went 
over  sagebrush,  prickly-pears  and  fallen  logs,  but  soon  over- 
took it,  as  its  hind  leg  was  broken.  It  looked  so  meek  and 
cried  so  piteously  that  I  hardly  had  the  heart  to  kill  it;  but 
meat  we  must  have,  and  I  quickly  dispatched  it.  Several  of 
the  boys  were  in  an  engagement  with  sagehens,  and  I  joined 
in  the  sport.  Altogether  we  killed  a  number.  We  then 
dressed  them  and  skinned  the  fawn. 

"Allen,"  said  one  of  the  boys,  pointing  to  a  large  covey 
of  grouse  (bonasa  umbellus)  "we  will  give  you  a  test."     I 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  49 

had  said  that  with  my  Winchester  I  could  kill  two  at  least 
out  of  five  of  these  birds  on  the  wing.  My  first  shot  brought 
down  two  as  they  slowly  arose  and  flew  away  from  me. 

"That  won't  do,  it  was  a  chance  shot ;  you  must  try  it 
again,"  said  the  boys. 

I  tried  again  and  brought  down  three.  Colonel  Warner, 
with  his  breech-loader,  brought  down  two  more.  The 
grouse  started  up  about  twenty  paces  from  us  and  were 
slow  on  the  wind,  but  I  scarcely  ever  failed  to  bring  down 
two.  Such  a  dinner  as  we  sat  down  to  that  day !  We  fairly 
reveled  in  luxuries.  Grouse,  venison  bacon,  potatoes,  syrup, 
flapjacks,  with  coffee  strong  enough  to  speak  for  itself. 
We  stopped  eating  when  there  was  nothing  more  to  eat. 
Our  motto  was,  ''Eat  as  long  as  you  can  see  anything  to 
eat ;  never  lay  by  anything  for  tomorrow."  We  had  a  novel 
way  of  washing  our  dishes.  Each  man  filled  his  pan  about 
half  full  of  sand  and  with  a  bunch  of  grass  rubbed  away 
until  it  was  bright  and  clean.  All  were  thus  washed,  thrown 
into  the  mess-chest  and  put  away. 

At  Antelope  Springs  we  stopped  to  examine  some  coal. 
The  vein  was  from  five  to  ten  feet  deep  and  seemed  to  be 
very  good.  The  country  around  this  point  is  covered  with 
sagebrush.  This  brush  grows  about  three  feet  high  on  the 
open  ground,  spreads  out  in  every  direction  and  is  very  stiff 
and  unwieldy.  Mingled  with  this  were  prickly-pears,,  mak- 
ing travel  very  toilsome.  This  day  the  teams  showed  unus- 
ual signs  of  fatigue;  some  of  the  horses  staggered  like 
drunken  men.  The  mules  and  the  oxen  stood  the  trip  much 
better.  We  were  now  in  sight  of  Powder  River.  Just  as  the 
first  teams  were  driven  into  its  waters  up  jumped  a  five- 
pronged  buck.  Several  shots  were  fired,  one  striking  him 
in  the  front  leg.  As  he  swam  towards  the  rear  division, 
another  volley  was  poured  into  him.  We  exchanged  con- 
gratulations on  the  feast  in  store  for  us. 


50  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

Next  day,  August  sixth,  we  laid  up  on  the  banks  of 
Powder  River  to  rest  our  worn-out  teams,  and  to  repair 
things  generally. 

After  a  good  night's  rest,  we  were  ready  for  business. 
Like  the  busy  bee,  we  improved  the  shining  hours,  repairing 
wagons,  shoeing  horses,  mending  harness,  cleaning  guns, 
binding  up  bruises,  cleaning  the  mess-chest,  patching  clothes 
and  the  hundred-and-one  things  that  must  be  attended  to 
on  a  march  like  ours. 

The  banks  of  the  Powder  River  are  low  and  sandy. 
The  sand  is  not  of  the  ordinary  kind,  but  is  black,  resembling 
gunpowder.  Beavers  were  to  be  seen  here  in  large  numbers. 
At  this  point  the  redskins  had  burned  two  forts,  the  taking 
of  which  they  accomplished  by  stratagem.  They  drove  a 
large  herd  of  buffaloes  past  the  forts,  and,  while  the  sol- 
diers were  in  pursuit  of  the  game,  the  whole  tribe  made 
a  rush  upon  the  defenceless  forts,  set  them  on  fire  and  killed 
a  large  number  of  the  soldiers  who  rushed  back  to  prevent 
their  designs.  Twenty-five  miles  off  lay  Crazy  Woman's 
Creek,  the  next  stream  in  our  route,  where  we  arrived  early 
in  the  evening,  tired  and  sore.  We  threw  ourselves  upon 
the  bank  and  discussed  what  we  should  have  for  supper. 

''Well,  boys,"  said  one,  "Can't  you  smell  fish  in  this 
stream  ?" 

*Tf  I  was  not  afraid  the  fish  commissioners  would  come 
along  and  catch  us,  I  would  get  out  my  seine  and  take  a 
tumble  through  these  peaceful  waves." 

''Get  the  seine,"  shouted  a  dozen  voices. 

The  seine  was  produced  with  much  mock  fear  and 
trembling;  half-a-dozen  men  plunged  in,  boots  and  all. 

"Keep  down  the  lead-line,  boys." 

"Raise  the  lead-line,  we  have  a  whale." 

"Hold  on,  boys,  Fm  swamped." 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  5I 

In  this  way  we  amused  ourselves  while  wading  around. 
With  one  plunge  we  swept  through  a  place  where  the  water 
was  three  feet  deep  and  stuck  on  a  sandbar.  We  were 
amazed  to  find  that  we  had  about  two  bushels  of  white  suck- 
ers. We  had  a  regular  jollification  on  getting  to  shore. 
We  were  now  dividing  the  spoils.  Some  tried  to  get  away 
with  their  arms  full  of  live,,  wriggling  fishes.  Others  held 
them  by  the  tails.  I  had  a  better  way.  I  filled  my  old 
white  hat,  which,  with  the  rim  turned  down,  held  about  half 
a  bushel.  Our  mess  had  fresh  fish  for  supper,  and  we  did 
not  mind  the  bones  a  bit.  After  we  had  eaten,  we  took  an- 
other turn  in  the  water.  The  fishing  continued  until  it  was 
dark.  I  believe  the  whole  party  had  fish  for  breakfast.  To 
celebrate  our  good  luck,  we  gathered  around  the  little 
stream  and  sang,  ''Shall  we  gather  at  the  river?"  Then  fol- 
lowed a  regular  wardance,  concluded  by  war-songs.  No 
savage,  with  a  dozen  scalps  hanging  from  his  girdle,  could 
have  felt  happier  than  did  we,  on  that  memorable  night. 

In  the  morning  we  resumed  our  journey  in  high  spirits. 
Our  mess  paid  a  visit  to  George  Silverberg  and  his  com- 
rades. We  found  George  gloriously  full.  We  sang  all  of 
the  songs  that  we  knew  appropriate  to  the  occasion,  and  left 
him  unspeakably  happy.  We  then  sought  out  William  Bald- 
win, and  he  sang  for  us,  'The  lousy  miner."  For  the  time 
we  forgot  all  our  hardships  and  thought  only  of  present  en- 
joyment and  the  gold-fields  ahead.  Our  concert  came  to  a 
close  as  the  dinner  hour  approached.  That  evening  we 
pitched  our  moving  tents,  one  day's  march  nearer  the  Big 
Horn,  near  Clear  Creek.  Here  we  caught  a  few  trout,  and 
smiled  at  the  idea  of  eating  suckers.  Oh !  no.  No  one  but 
a  "tenderfoot"  would  eat  suckers.  The  water  of  this  creek 
is  very  clear.  The  bed  is  lined  with  boulders  worn  round 
and  smooth  by  the  swiftly  flowing  waters.     The  banks  are 


52  ADVENTURES   OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

well-defined  gravel-beds.  The  grass  is  deep  and  luxuriant. 
From  here  westward  the  country  is  mountainous.  During 
the  day  we  saw  antelopes  and  a  white-tail  deer,,  but  they 
were  too  far  off  for  a  shot. 

Our  next  camp  was  on  Big  Piny  Creek,  at  old  Fort 
Phil  Kearney.  The  fort  had  been  burned  to  the  ground 
some  time  previously.  Human  skeletons,  bleaching  in  the 
sun,  told  us  a  sad  story  of  a  heartless  massacre.  The  fort 
was  established  in  July,  1866.  Forts  Reno  and  Phil  Kear- 
ney and  old  Fort  Smith  on  the  Big  Horn  were  built  to  pro- 
tect the  overland  trail  and  the  miners  who  thronged  this 
thoroughfare  on  their  way  to  the  gold  fields  of  Montana. 
Near  Fort  Kearney,  Colonel  Fetterman  and  eighty-four  sol- 
diers were  massacred  by  Indians.  They  were  in  the  line  of 
duty,  covering  the  trail  of  wood-haulers,  and  guarding  them 
from  danger. 

The  massacre  occurred  on  December  twenty-first,  1866. 
No  one  was  left  to  tell  the  sad  story  except  the  woodchop- 
pers,  who  heard  the  firing.  It  seems  that  there  was  a  lack  of 
good  scouts  in  this  particular  locality.  About  1868,  "Portu- 
gee"  Phillips  was  the  scout  to  carry  the  first  news  of  Phil 
Kearney's  massacre  to  the  army  officials  at  Fort  Laramie, 
and  they  thereupon  buried  the  brave  boys.  We  stopped  and 
m.ade  camp,  to  view  the  battlefield  or  rather  the  place  of  the 
massacre.  The  soldiers  were  passing  to  the  north,  when, 
ambushed  by  an  overwhelming  number  of  Sioux,  they  were 
shot  down  from  a  ravine  filled  with  chokecherry  brush  and 
willows.  As  we  passed  the  line  of  graves  on  the  sharp 
ridge,  now  near  the  main  traveled  road  from  Sheridan  to 
Buffalo,  we  were  greatly  impressed  by  the  evidence  of  the 
savagery  of  the  children  of  the  plains ;  we  were  not  less 
impressed  by  the  generosity  and  bravery  of  the  soldiers  who 
had  here  laid  down  their  lives  to  help  blaze  the  trail  for  the 
millions  who  will  hereafter  travel  this  road  of  civilization. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  53 

As  our  train  passed  slowly  along  we  neared  the  beau- 
tiful sparkling  water  of  Goose  Creek,  and  it  was  a  glad  sight 
to  our  eyes,  tired  and  weary  after  three  months  of  hard  trav- 
el, danger  and  hardship.  We  were  passing  into  what  seemed 
to  be  a  valley  of  beauty,,  profusely  set  with  studs  of  green 
Cottonwood,  willows  and  mountain  ash. 


54  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


Nature  Stfdiks— Animal  life  on  the  plains— white-tailed  deer— buffaloes- 
beaver  dams— beaver  at  work— a  beaver  colony. 

Our  train  halted  on  Middle  Goose  Creek,  Wyoming. 
We  intended  to  camp  here  for  a  few  days  to  rest  our  weary 
animals  and  to  prospect  for  gold.  Presently  we  pulled  out 
to  make  a  camp  farther  down  the  stream,  and  I  left  Thomas 
Randall  in  charge  while  I  took  a  ramble  across  the  country. 
To  see  our  train  strung  out  along  the  stream,  as  it  wound 
its  way  down  a  beautiful  meadow,  was  truly  a  pleasing 
sight.  The  creek  abounded  with  delicious  trout  and  white- 
tail  deer,  antelopes  and  buffaloes  sported  in  great  numbers 
on  adjacent  hills.  Grouse,  prairie  chickens  and  sagehens 
thrust  themselves  upon  our  notice.  Nature  had  been  spec- 
ially lavish  in  this  section,  and  the  red  man  was  not  slow  to 
appreciate  the  fact.  The  Crows,  the  Cheyennes,  the  Sioux, 
and  the  Shoshones  were  continually  fighting  for  the  mastery 
and  possession  of  this  Eden  of  Wyoming. 

My  horse  was  eager  to  join  the  train ;  his  large  brown 
eyes  glistened  and  he  pawed  the  ground  while  I  saddled 
him,  adjusted  my  cartridge  belt  and  thrust  my  old  Bullard 
rifle  through  the  sling.  As  I  raised  into  the  saddle  he 
sprang  forward.  We  headed  for  the  mountains,  and  we  flew 
over  the  green  meadow,  rich  in  a  thousand  beautiful  flow- 
ers, whose  perfume  filled  the  air  and  mingled  with  the  spices 
of  red  willows. 


BEAVER  CUTTING  TIMBER. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  57 

Billy  had  measured  off  many  miles  when  we  came  to  a 
plum  thicket,  heavily  loaded  with  red  fruit.  Out  of  this  shot 
a  bunch  of  white-tail  deer  and  we  gave  chase.  I  checked  our 
speed  when  we  came  to  a  steep  gulch  and  sprang  to  the 
ground.  As  the  deer  went  up  the  opposite  side,  I  selected 
a  young  buck  and  fired,  breaking  his  back.  I  dressed  him, 
put  him  behind  my  saddle,  and  started  on.  Shortly  after 
a  large  band  of  buffaloes  (bison  Americanus)  were  seen 
crossing  some  low  foothills,  coming  toward  me  on  the  run. 
I  suspected  that  Indians  might  be  at  their  old  trick  to  get 
our  party  after  buffaloes,  then  swoop  down  on  us  and  seize 
our  stock,  so  I  started  for  the  train.  I  had  not  gone  far 
when  I  saw  the  buffaloes  pause  to  drink,  after  which  they 
returned  whence  they  had  come.  This  relieved  my  mind, 
and  I  started  to  explore  some  large  beaver  (castor  Canaden- 
sis) dams  which  I  had  seen  from  a  foothill  nestling  among 
a  grove  of  small  cottonwood  trees. 

On  nearing  the  valley,  I  crossed  a  trail  forty  feet  wide. 
At  first  sight  it  lcx)ked  like  a  well-traveled  road,,  but,  on  clos- 
er scrutiny,  it  proved  to  be  a  beaver  trail  worn  perfectly 
smooth.  I  dismounted,  took  off  both  deer  and  saddle,  and 
picketed  my  horse  in  a  secluded  nook  where  he  could  get 
grass  and  water.  Having  made  a  careful  observation  of  the 
surroundings,  I  found  myself  in  one  of  the  most  extensive 
beaver  colonies  that  I  had  ever  seen. 

The  stream  at  this  point  was  a  series  of  little  lakes,  and, 
about  one  hundred  yards  below,  I  could  hear  the  triphammer 
and  piledriver  thumping  away  as  each  beaver's  tail  came 
down  on  the  new  construction.  I  was  soon  near  the  dam, 
but  could  get  no  satisfactory  point  of  observation.  A  few 
yards  ahead  of  me  stood  a  boxelder  tree,  and  I  began  to 
crawl  toward  this  as  carefully  as  if  I  were  stalking  a  band 
of  deer.     The  bushes  and  willows  covered  my  approach, 


58  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

and  presently  I  was  among  its  branches.  Carefully  I  peered 
from  out  its  green  foliage.  What  a  sight  met  my  gaze! 
Seventy  or  eighty  beavers  were  working  in  broad  daylight 
as  though  they  feared  none  of  God's  creatures.  I  took  a 
careful  survey  of  the  country  for  Indians,  saw  that  my  horse 
and  gun  were  within  easy  reach  and  dismissed  all  fears. 
I  was  eager  to  give  my  entire  attention  to  what  I  had  often 
sought  after  but  never  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  until  now. 

The  dam  was  nearly  one  hundred  yards  long,  about 
six  feet  wide  at  the  bottom,  and  narrowed  to  two  feet  at  the 
top.  It  comprised  stones,  logs  and  willow  branches,  packed 
together  so  firmly  that  it  was  impossible  to  dislodge  any  por- 
tion of  the  structure.  I  first  sought  to  divide  the  workmen  ac- 
cording to  their  respective  duties.  The  most  prominent 
figure  was  that  of  an  old  beaver,  gray  with  age  and  of  enor- 
mous size,  whose  function  seemed  to  be  that  of  a  general 
supervisor,  for  he  sat  apart  on  a  small  sandbar.  My  at- 
tention was  next  attracted  to  some  very  large,  strong  beav- 
ers, who  placed  in  position  material  brought  forward  by  oth- 
ers. I  begrudged  the  occasional  glances  which  I  was  com- 
pelled to  give  to  satisfy  me  that  no  Indians  were  approach- 
ing. I  was  curious  to  know  how  those  hod-carriers,  who 
came  forward  with  their  tails  loaded  down  with  mortar,  ob- 
tained their  load.  The  mastermechanics  with  their  tails  beat 
this  mortar  into  position.  I  peered  a  little  farther  over  the 
boughs,  and  saw  that  down  below  the  dam,  close  to  the 
original  creek  bank,  where  some  water  was  creeping  forth, 
was  the  mortar  trough.  Some  beavers  were  engaged  in 
mixing  this  sticky  clay  and  placing  it  on  other  beavers'  tails, 
who  in  turn  went  straight  to  the  dam  with  it. 

I  could  scarcely  remain  silent  when  I  saw  this  pro- 
ceeding, for  how  this  mud  was  moved  had  always  been  a 
mystery  to  me,  as  it  takes  tons  of  it  to  make  a  dam.    I  beheld 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  59 

with  delight  even  the  youngest  beavers  coming  with  long 
willow  twigs  in  their  mouths  to  lay  beside  the  masters. 
These  in  turn  took  them,  cut  them  in  pieces  and  stuck  them 
down  by  rearing  upon  their  hind  feet,  holding  the  twigs 
fast  in  their  teeth  while  pushing  them  firmly  into  the  dam. 
As  soon  as  the  mortar  was  taken  from  the  hod-carriers,  it 
was  stamped  solidly  into  position  by  the  tails  of  the  workers. 

Such  precision  and  orderly  work  I  have  never  seen  car- 
ried out  except  by  bees  and  the  red  ants  of  the  plains.  I 
noticed  two  or  three  times  that  the  youngsters  had  a  dispo- 
sition to  play  between  loads.  The  masters  would  then  thrust 
out  their  necks  and  show  their  teeth;  this  never  failed  to 
cause  a  scamper  back  to  work.  In  my  delight  and  curiosity, 
I  pressed  far  out  on  a  small  limb  and  suddenly  it  broke,  let- 
ting me  down  noisily.  The  superintendent  beaver,  upon 
hearing  the  first  sound,,  jumped  into  the  water  and  gave  one 
stroke  of  his  tail  which  sounded  all  over  the  series  of  dams. 
Instantly  every  beaver  had  disappeared  and  dead  silence 
reigned.  My  horse  was  still  cutting  the  grass  without  fear 
or  excitement,  so  I  slid  to  the  ground,  took  my  belt  knife, 
cut  a  stout  stick,  sharpened  it  and  began  to  tear  out  the  fresh 
work  which  was  almost  completed. 

It  was  almost  impossible  to  move  any  part  of  the  ma- 
sonry which  was  secured  so  firmly.  But,  after  a  hard  strug- 
gle, I  got  the  water  started,  and  went  back  to  my  tree  to 
await  results.  I  was  sure  the  beavers  had  not  smelled  me, 
and,  such  being  the  case,  I  was  confident  they  would  soon 
return  to  their  work.  Shortly  I  saw  the  old  boss  stick  his 
nose  out  of  the  water  and  swim  over  to  the  dam,  carefully 
scanning  every  object,  and  raising  on  his  hind  feet  and  snif- 
fing all  around.  After  satisfying  his  curiosity,  he  gave  two 
terrible  blows  with  his  tail,  then  ran  to  where  the  water 
was  pouring  over  the  dam.  He  went  through  all  manner 
of  antics  and  was  soon  joined  by  the  entire  force. 


60  ADVENTURES   OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

Strange  to  say,  no  other  beaver  after  coming  to  the 
surface,  even  stopped  to  look  or  sniff,  but  started  to  work  as 
though  he  were  a  fireman  at  a  fire,,  and  in  one-fourth  of  the 
time  it  had  taken  me  to  start  the  water,  they  had  stopped  it 
entirely.  Now  the  regular  work  went  on  again  without  in- 
terruption until  all  parts  of  the  dam  were  of  uniform  height. 
After  a  fearful  beating  of  the  surface  with  their  tails,  all 
of  the  animals  jumped  into  the  pond  and  began  swimming 
as  if  in  perfect  delight.  Then  the  old  superintendent  went 
all  over  the  newly  constructed  dam,  going  last  to  the  point 
just  finished,  which  he  gave  a  few  pelts  with  his  tail.  He 
then  joined  the  others  in  the  swimming  celebration.  When 
I  alighted  from  the  tree,  the  customary  alarm  was  given  and 
all  the  beavers  disappeared.  I  was  soon  on  my  horse  wend- 
ing my  way  to  camp,  and  passed  beaver  dams  until  I  had  to 
leave  the  creek  bottom  and  take  the  higher  ground. 

Years  of  careful  study  and  close  observation  have  con- 
vinced me  that  there  are  two  species  of  beaver  in  this  coun- 
try, one  having  a  larger  inferior  jaw,  curving  more  than  the 
other,  with  two  double  toenails  on  the  inside  of  the  front 
foot.  This  is  contrary  to  the  clasification  of  zoologists,  who 
declare  that  the  bank  beaver,  which  builds  in  steep  banks, 
differs  from  those  who  build  houses  of  logs  and  brush. 
Beavers  build  as  necessity  compels.  Where  banks  which  do 
not  overflow  are  available,  they  build  there,  but  where  such 
banks  are  not  to  be  found,  they  build  houses  out  of  logs, 
interlined  with  brush  daubed  with  mud. 

Six  beavers  are  able  to  roll  a  log  one  foot  in  diameter 
and  eight  feet  long.  They  often  cut  Cottonwood  logs  and 
carry  them  into  water  where  there  is  a  hole  deep  and  still. 
When  the  log  sinks  from  the  weight  of  the  absorbed  water, 
it  is  secured  firmly  and  in  winter  the  bark  is  eaten  from 
the  log,  the  log  is  pulled  out  into  the  current  and  floats  off. 

I   have   seen  cottonwood  trees   four  feet  in  diameter 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  6l 

cut  down  by  beavers.  During  such  work  the  superintendent 
takes  his  stand,  while  the  workmen,  one  after  another,  begin 
to  gnaw  around  the  tree.  As  many  as  can  work  comfortably 
at  a  time  continue  until  the  job  is  finished.  When  the  tree 
is  about  to  fall,  the  superintendent  gives  the  signal  and  all 
run  to  the  water.  After  the  tree  has  fallen,  another  call  is 
given  and  all  proceed  to  cut  limbs  great  and  small.  The 
precision  with  which  they  fell  a  tree,  either  to  make  a  dam 
or  turn  a  stream  is  wonderful. 

Often  for  some  unknown  reason,  a  beaver  will  leave 
the  colony,  burrow  a  hole  in  a  bank  and  live  a  regular  her- 
mit's life,  having  nothing  to  do  with  his  fellows.  These 
are  called  bachelor  beavers  by  old  trappers.  A  large  beaver 
will  weigh  seventy  pounds.  The  outer  or  guard  hair  is  red- 
dish and  coarse,  with  a  thick  velvety  fur  underneath,  which 
keeps  the  water  away  from  the  bodies.  The  female  bears 
from  two  to  six  youngsters  in  the  spring.  These  little  fel- 
lows are  very  busy  people,  cutting  and  carrying  everything 
that  comes  in  their  way.  In  point  of  instinct  no  animal  is 
superior  to  the  beaver.  His  feet  adapt  him  to  all  kinds  of 
building,  the  hind  ones  being  webbed.  This  enables  them 
to  stand  easily  in  soft  mud,  and  gives  them  power  in  swim- 
ming. The  fore  feet  have  no  webs,  being  designed  for  con- 
structing dams  and  pushing  sticks  into  the  earth.  The  tail 
is  flat  and  used  as  a  trowel,  a  hod,  and  as  a  rudder. 

We  left  this  lovely  valley  which  had  afforded  us  such 
a  rest  and  bountiful  supply  of  game  and  fish,  moving  north. 
We  bade  farewell  to  Wyoming  and  its  rich  pastures,  its 
buffaloes,  elks  and  deer,  and  entered  the  cloud-capped 
reaches  of  Montana,  whose  clear,  cold  streams  and  majestic 
mountains,  clothed  in  perpetual  snows,  stand  out  in  bold  re- 
lief against  the  azure  sky.  After  a  weary  journey,  we  land- 
ed on  the  Little  Horn  River,  and  arranged  for  a  three-days' 
rest  on  the  last  battlefield  of  the  lamented  Custer. 


62  ADVENTURES   OF  DR.    ALLEN. 


CHAPTER  V. 


CuSTBB's  Last  Battle— The  battlefield  today— "Here  is  where  Custer  Fell" 
—The  brave  attack— 360  soldiers  charge  6000  Indian  warriors— all  of  the 
soldiers  killed— Indian  warriors— Sitting  Bull— Gaul— Rain-in-the-Face 
— the  Bcene  of  the  contest  examined— the  Custer  monument— descrij)- 
tion  of  the  battle  and  Indian  customs. 

On  the  morning  of  August  i8th  we  were  camped  on 
the  Little  Horn  River,  just  opposite  Custer's  battlefield. 
Our  teams  were  exhausted  after  a  long  trip  and  we  held 
a  council  at  which  we  decided  to  remain  here  long  enough 
to  rest  our  weary  animals.  Our  tents  were  soon  pitched  in 
the  valley  where  Sitting  Bull  and  his  warriors  had  camped. 
Buffalo  bones,  elk  heads  and  deer  antlers  were  strewn  over 
the  valley  and  along  the  river  front,  while  the  bent-willow 
sweat-lodges  were  still  standing,  with  the  rounded  pile  of 
small  boulders,  just  as  they  had  been  left  by  the  red  man. 
The  earth  still  showed  small  trenches  where  the  large,  round 
tepees  had  stood,  and  the  stakes  and  picket  pins  were  still 
in  the  ground.  After  a  careful  survey  of  the  valley  we  de- 
cided to  cross  the  river  and  examine  the  battlefield. 

On  the  seventh  of  June,  1876,  General  Crook  had 
struck  Sitting  Bull  and  put  him  to  flight  after  a  severe 
thrashing.  This  so  humiliated  the  Indian  chief  that  he  sent 
runners  to  the  Northern  Cheyennes  asking  them  to  join 
him  at  once  on  the  Little  Horn,  whose  v^aters  were  already 
rising  from  melting  snows. 

His  scouts  had  located  General  Custer  at  the  mouth  of 


1: 

^^^^^^Ks^^\  s  'IP^^^HI 

TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  65 

the  Rosebud  on  June  22,  on  their  way  to  the  Little  Horn, 
and  he  immediately  concentrated  every  available  warrior 
to  meet  the   yellow-haired   chieftain. 

Sitting  Bull  hated  the  paleface,  hated  civilization  and 
its  drudgery,  and  was  eager  to  strike  at  any  of  its  products 
and  representatives.  From  his  camp  he  sent  out  braves, 
across  the  plains  and  mountains,  to  notify  his  fellowchiefs 
that  soldiers  were  coming  to  kill  his  people  and  destroy  their 
property.  Ghost  dances  were  then  kept  up  until  the  Sioux 
nation  was  almost  crazy.  Daily  new  arrivals  poured  in  to 
the  aid  of  Sitting  Bull.  Presently  the  river  was  fringed 
with  tepees  for  a  space  of  three  miles.  Here  were  the  war- 
riors of  the  Sioux,  Cheyennes,  Minne-Conjoues,  Orgolies, 
Uncapapas,  Bloods,  Blackfeet  and  Flatheads,  whose  lodges 
numbered  eighteen  hundred,,  by  actual  count  of  J.  H.  But- 
ler, of  the  5th  U.  S.  Infantry,  who  was  serving  under  Gen- 
eral Miles  and  was  on  the  field  shortly  after  the  battle. 

Generals  Terry  and  Custer  had  been  sent  by  the  War 
Department  to  capture  Sitting  Bull  and  to  bring  him  to 
Washington.  The  command  halted  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Rosebud,  where  it  empties  into  the  Yellowstone,  and  held  a 
council.  General  Terry  sent  Custer  forward  with  instruc- 
tions to  strike  the  Indian  forces  at  a  certain  point,  while  he 
would  attack  them  by  way  of  the  Big  Horn  at  the  same  time, 
and  follow  up  the  Little  Horn.  As  Custer  crossed  by  land 
Terry  suggested  that  Custer  take  cannon  and  Gatling  guns, 
but  he  declined  to  do  this,  saying  that  it  would  not  be  neces- 
sary. On  June  twenty-fourth,  by  a  forced  march,  Custer 
made  twenty-eight  miles  and  camped  on  the  Rosebud,  a  trib- 
utary near  the  divide  between  Sitting  Bull  and  himself.  He 
reached  the  camp  twenty-four  hours  before  the  appointed 
time,  held  a  council  with  his  scouts.  Bob  and  Bill  Jackson, 
who  reported  that  the  warriors  of  a  large  Indian  village 


66  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

were  hastily  preparing  for  battle  and  thought  there  were 
not  enough  soldiers  to  encounter  them.  Custer  told  them 
to  go  back  with  the  packtrain,  which  they  did.  Mitch  Buoy 
also  reported  that  it  was  the  largest  Indian  village  he  had 
ever  seen,  being  over  four  miles  long  and  containing  fully 
eighteen  hundred  lodges  and  about  six  thousand  Indians, 
and  he  also  declared  that  Custer  had  not  half  enough  soldiers 
to  fight  them.  Here  General  Custer  gave  him  permission  to 
go  to  the  rear,  which  he  refused  to  do,  saying:  "I  will  go 
in,  but  I  will  never  come  out,"  and,  after  discarding  his  hat, 
he  tied  a  handkerchief  around  his  head  and  said  that  he  was 
ready  for  the  battle. 

General  Custer  called  his  men  together  and  told  them 
they  had  a  hard  fight  ahead,  but  if  each  man  would  stand 
at  his  post  they  would  be  victorious.  Custer  was  then  twen- 
ty-four hours  ahead  of  General  Terry.  He  sent  General 
Reno  to  attack  the  camp  at  the  head  of  the  creek  and  with 
the  remainder  of  his  command  Custer  himself  struck  the 
village  at  the  lower  end.  Reno  had  crossed  the  river  with 
part  of  his  command  when  the  Indians  forced  him  back, 
killing  many  of  his  soldiers,  and  completely  overpowered 
him.  Reno  recrossed  the  river,  threw  up  breastworks  and 
made  a  stand.  At  this  point  Gaul  with  all  his  warriors 
flanked  Custer  on  the  east,  closing  in  on  his  rear,  while  the 
Cheyennes  occupied  the  north  dry-gulch  and  the  Sioux 
came  in  along  under  the  banks  of  the  river,  entirely  sur- 
rounding the  soldiers,  killing  the  entire  command  on  June 
25,  1876.  When  General  Terry  arrived  on  the  field  twenty- 
four  hours  later,  he  found  the  soldiers  all  cold  and  stiff  upon 
the  battlefield,  scalped  and  mutilated  beyond  recognition. 
Captain  Renteen,  who  had  been  sent  to  remain  with  the  pack 
train,  fell  in  with  Reno  and  tried  to  bury  the  soldiers,  but 
found  it  a  terrible  undertaking  and  an  impossible  task.    The 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  6/ 

command  fell  back  to  their  boats  on  the  Yellowstone,  where 
they  were  joined  by  Generals  Crook  and  Miles. 

When  our  party  gained  the  other  side,  a  horrible  sight 
met  our  eyes.  Each  soldier,  who  with  Custer  had  sacri- 
ficed his  life,  yet  lay  where  he  had  fallen  on  that  ill-fated 
day.  Each  move  that  was  then  made  could  be  read  by  us 
as  from  the  page  of  an  open  book.  As  we  surveyed  the  bat- 
tlefield we  saw  where  Custer  had  led  his  brave  followers 
to  the  crossing  of  the  Little  Horn  and  where  the  first  volley 
of  leaden  hail  had  swept  into  and  across  that  doomed  com- 
pany from  a  threefold  ambuscade.  This  had  poured  from 
the  banks  of  the  Little  Horn  on  the  south,  where  the  main 
camp  of  the  Sioux  was  located,  down  the  river  to  where  the 
Cheyennes  filed  along  Dry  Creek,  crossed  the  hilltop  that 
Custer  had  just  descended,  joining  the  right  wing  of  the 
Sioux,  which  had  but  a  little  time  before  emerged  from  an 
adjoining  coulee,  thus  forming  one  continuous  dead  line 
which  so  encircled  the  gallant  soldiers  that  not  a  man  es- 
caped. We  paused  and  counted  the  remains  of  seventy-six 
who  fell  to  win  Montana  from  the  savage.  Continuing,  we 
came  to  the  place  where  the  survivors  of  the  first  attack 
had  endeavored  to  regain  the  hill  and  escape  by  the  route 
through  which  they  had  entered  this  death  valley.  Here 
lay  the  bodies  of  fifty  or  sixty  men  and  horses. 

In  their  vain  attempt  to  escape  by  the  way  they  had 
entered,,  the  remnant  of  that  brave  command  found  them- 
selves confronted  by  thousands  of  Cheyennes  and  Sioux, 
who  had  closed  in  on  the  hill  and  effectually  cut  off  their  re- 
treat,, leaving  them  no  alternative  but  to  return  to  the  knoll 
where  now  stands  Custer's  monument,  and  there  concentrate 
all  of  their  remaining  forces  to  make  one  desperate  effort 
for  life  and  liberty.  Thousands  of  warriors  pouring  in  a 
deadly  fire  from  all  sides  soon  so  thinned  their  ranks  that 


68  ADVENTURES   OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

only  Custer  and  a  pitifully  small  number  survived.  We  then 
came  to  the  center  of  death  where  forty  men  and  their 
horses  succumbed  to  a  relentless  foe,  whose  numbers  were 
six  thousand.  Although  they  had  been  surrounded  on  ev- 
ery side  with  a  desperate  enemy,  possessing  advantage  of 
ground,  and  having  a  concentrated  fire  pouring  into  their 
decimated  ranks,  they  yet  fought  like  demons  from  behind 
their  dead  horses  until  exterminated. 

A  little  further  on,  I  found  a  small  wooden  cross.  On 
this  was  a  slip  of  paper  containing  the  following:  "Here 
is  where  Custer  fell."  Other  crosses  told  of  Colonel  Keogh, 
Co.  I,  Seventh  Cavalry ;  Wild,  Co.  I,  Seventh  Cavalry ;  J.  J. 
Crittenden,  Lieutenant  Twentieth  Infantry ;  and  Balzar  Cus- 
ter. Although  General  Reno  was  close  at  hand,  and  dis- 
patches were  sent  to  him  from  Custer  by  Muggins  Taylor, 
who  took  his  life  in  his  hand  to  serve  his  country  and  de- 
livered the  messages  faithfully,  and,,  although  Reno  signally 
failed  to  assist  Custer  and  was  branded  a  coward,  the  very 
nature  of  the  valley  and  the  bad-land  hills,  would  indicate 
the  sheer  impossibility  of  his  help  reaching  the  battlefield 
in  time  to  rescue  the  brave  fellows  on  that  ill-fated  day. 
We  returned  from  the  field  sick  at  heart,  but,  after  a  restful 
night  we  concluded  to  pass  another  day  there,  as  many 
points  of  interest  had  not  been  seen. 

We  started  early,  determined  to  make 'the  rounds  of  the 
dead  line  occupied  by  the  enemy.  On  the  edge  of  Dry  Creek, 
on  the  ridge  and  in  the  coulee,  we  found  thousands  of  cart- 
ridge shells  lying  in  piles,  each  pile  showing  clearly  where 
each  warrior  was  situated.  From  these  points  almost  the 
whole  battlefield  could  be  seen,  and  the  savages  under  cover 
could  pour  in  a  deadly  fire  without  exposing  themselves. 
We  made  the  round  of  the  entire  firing  line,  finding  empty 
shells  by  the  thousand,  fifty  calibre  needle-guns,  Henry  rifles 


WHERE  CUSTER  MADE  HIS  LAST  STAND. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  7I 

44,  some  Long  Toms,  Spencers,  56  calibre,.  Winchester  44- 
40.  Bullets  were  also  found  that  had  not  been  shot,  also 
round  musket  balls,  buckshot,  and  some  od^  shells  which 
I  had  never  seen  duplicated.  In  my  collection  I  have  sev- 
eral of  these  with  the  cross  sticks  which  the  Indians  used  to 
rest  their  guns  upon  when  shooting. 

After  the  firing  line  had  been  thoroughly  examined, 
we  returned  to  the  scene  of  battle.  Here  we  found  the  tri- 
angle of  dead  men  showing  three  distinct  movements  under 
a  terrific  fire  from  three  sides,  each  soldier  lying  just  where 
he  had  fallen,  each  with  a  small  amount  of  earth  thrown 
over  him,  with  his  head  protruding  from  one  end  of  the 
grave  and  his  feet  from  the  other.  One  very  noticeable  fea- 
ture presented  itself  to  me,  the  boot  tops  had  been  cut  from 
the  dead.  Their  skulls  in  many  instances  had  been  crushed 
and  shot  with  pistol  bullets  after  being  killed.  Scalps  had 
been  taken  and  some  of  the  clothing  was  removed.  No  bul- 
lets or  shells  of  the  enemy  were  found  near  that  last  stand, 
showing  conclusively  that  the  battle  and  the  last  stand  were 
fought  to  a  finish  at  some  distance,  as  Rain-in-the-Face  told 
me  afterward. 

We  could  hear  in  fancy  the  terrible  war  whoop  from 
six  thousand  throats  reverberating  through  the  hills,  and 
could  see  the  mad  rush  of  these  fiends,  the  bloody  scalps,  and 
the  ghoulish  throng  plundering  the  bodies  of  their  fallen  foe 
of  every  article  of  value,  and  their  later  triumphant  return  to 
the  camp  that  extended  for  six  miles  along  the  banks  of 
the  Little  Horn  River.  We  could  seem  to  hear  the  hoarse 
voice  of  Sitting  Bull  give  orders  to  gather  the  dead  Indian 
warriors  and  lay  them  to  rest  in  their  blankets.  Then  a  fu- 
neral dirge  is  sung  by  the  friends  and  relatives,  and,  as  they 
are  buried,,  according  to  Indian  rites  in  trees  and  on  the 
limbs  of  trees,  a  long  last  wail  of  lamentation,  resembling 


'J2.  ADVENTURES   OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

the  cry  of  wild  animals,  dies  on  the  sighing  winds.  The 
mourners  place  themselves  at  the  graves  and  remain  appar- 
ently grief-stricken  while  the  chiefs,  Sitting  Bull,  Rain-in- 
the-Face  and  Gaul,,  hastily  arrange  the  scalp  pole  upon  which 
scalps  are  hung  by  the  score. 

The  warriors  speedily  assemble,  camp-fires  are  built, 
the  tom-toms  are  brought  forward  and  the  great  scalp-dance 
begins.  Slowly  the  muffled  sounds  echo  from  valley  to  hill 
and  from  hill  to  valley.  The  wild  war-notes  from  thousands 
of  throats  unite  and  the  braves  glide  around  like  evil  spir- 
its. Old  men  with  warclubs  bound  about  like  deer,  strike  the 
.  scalp  poles,  with  bead-like  eyes  they  renew  their  youth,  while 
with  fiendish  delight  they  gloat  over  the  stiffened  forms 
of  the  pale  faces.  Intoxicated  with  victory  over  the  race 
they  hate,  their  fiendish  delight  knows  no  bounds.  On 
they  go,  with  tom-tom  pealing,  the  muffled  sound  of  thou- 
sands of  moccasined  feet  stamping  time  to  the  blood-curd- 
ling music.  Howling  dogs  take  up  the  direful  cries,  which 
echo  from  river  to  plain,  where  the  wolves  repeat  their 
echoes  to  the  farther  mountains. 

It  is  pandemonium  let  loose.  Devils  chained  a  thou- 
sand years  are  now  freed.  As  one  set  of  dancers  becomes  ex- 
hausted and  sinks  to  the  earth,  the  gap  is  filled  with  an- 
other crowd,  crying  and  wailing,,  the  gestures  of  each  set 
being  more  fierce  than  those  of  their  predecessors.  Gaudy 
feathers,  war  bonnets,  paint  and  human  blood  bedeck  their 
grim  visages.  Hags  a  century  old  are  reeling  around  the 
death  ring.  Close  at  hand  lie  forty-two  warriors  silent  in 
death,  and  the  wails  that  come  from  the  mourners  sound 
like  those  of  lost  souls.  Joy  and  sorrow  mingle  together 
on  the  Little  Horn,,  whose  placid  stream  glides  by,  crimsoned 
with  both  the  blood  of  the  red  man  and  of  the  palefaces. 
The  tom-toms  subside  until  its  muffled  sound  is  almost  ex- 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  73 

tinct  and  the  war-notes  and  dances  of  six  thousand  souls 
are  hushed,  while  myriad  camp-fires  reflect  fantastic  images 
gliding  to  and  fro  like  goblins. 

The  chieftains  appear  upon  the  scene,  the  signal  for  a 
deafening  outburst.  The  field  groans,  the  hills  tremble,  the 
assembled  multitude  pound  the  earth  like  war-horses  ap- 
proaching battle.  Tepees  are  torn  down,  buffalo  robes  fly 
in  the  air,  ponies  pull  their  picket  pins,  consternation  seizes 
the  passion-drunk  multitude.  Some  plunge  into  the  river, 
while  others  fall  to  the  earth.  The  squaws  shriek  with  ter- 
ror, the  children  huddle  together  in  bunches.  Warriors  be- 
come insane,  shooting  their  rifles  and  revolvers,  brandish- 
ing their  knives,  flourishing  their  war-clubs.  Night  wears 
on  and  the  braves  one  by  one  fall  on  the  earth  exhausted, 
until  the  chant  is  gradually  ended,  and  all  sink  to  slumber, 
except  a  few  sentinels,  who  are  posted  lest  some  evil  spirit 
swoop  down  and  exterminate  them  all. 

The  horror  of  the  slaughter  seemed  greater  to  us  than 
we  had  before  realized.  That  such  a  massacre  was  possible 
has  been  the  wonder  of  all  who  have  seen  the  battlefield. 
But  to  one  who  has  been  through  the  wilds,  and  who  knows 
the  cunning  of  the  savages,  there  can  be  but  one  conclusion. 
The  trail  that  Custer  and  his  men  followed  was  made  by 
fully  five  hundred  warriors  of  the  Red  Cloud,  Sioux  and 
Cheyenne  tribes.  Their  trail  was  easy  to  follow,  but  the  pres- 
ence of  the  bands  that  came  in  from  the  north  and  west  were 
not  discovered  until  too  late.  Whether  this  was  the  fault 
of  the  scouts  or  whether  the  blame  should  be  attributed  to 
the  officers  will  never  be  known,  as  those  who  were  on  the 
field  will  forever  remain  silent.  There  is  no  doubt  that  our 
army  scouts  have  no  superiors  and  that  the  art  of  trailing  is 
primarily  American.  We  find  scouts  among  the  mountains 
and  on  the  plains,  following  the  faintest  of  impressions.    A 


74  ADVENTURES   OF  DR     ALLEN. 

stone  removed,  a  blade  of  grass  bent,  is  sufficient  to  guide 
them.  The  sHghtest  indication  is  noted  and  followed  as 
accurately  as  a  bloodhound  follows  its  scent. 

These  six  thousand  warriors  had  met  in  this  valley  from 
many  trails  leading  through  jungles,  over  mountains  and 
across  plains  for  the  avowed  purpose  of  exterminating  "The 
Yellow-haired  Chief."  Sitting  Bull  and  his  followers  had 
made  the  camp  with  this  end  in  view,  as  there  was  one  place 
only  where  the  river  might  be  crossed.  The  wily  old  chief 
knew  that  the  soldiers  must  cross  from  the  east  to  the  west 
side,  and  that  the  valley  where  they  occupied  the  ridge  be- 
tween the  Little  Horn  and  Rosebud  rivers  was  well  defined. 
They  could  easily  watch  the  line  of  march  and  place  their 
warriors  contiguous  to  the  ford  by  the  time  Custer  arrived 
there.  This  was  promptly  done  while  the  soldiers  made  the 
last  two  miles  of  their  march.  Never  was  a  more  strategic 
movement  carried  out  than  that  last  one  against  Custer. 
Swift  and  terrible  was  the  execution.  While  the  Indians 
were  all  under  cover,  the  soldiers  were  in  plain  view  and 
they  were  killed  from  every  side. 

The  last  forty  or  fifty  men  died  among  the  bodies  of  the 
horses,  which  had  been  killed  for  breastworks  of  defense  as 
a  last  resort.  These  heroes  of  the  plains  well  knew  what  to 
expect  at  the  hands  of  the  savages,  many  of  whom  were  then 
being  fed,  clothed  and  armed  by  the  government  of  the 
United  States,  whose  agencies  really  furnished  headquarters 
for  their  fiendish  operations.  Had  these  wards  of  the  gov- 
ernment been  put  under  military  control,  these  raids  would 
never  have  been  made,  and  Chief  Joseph  would  never  have 
tried  his  scheme  of  cutting  his  way  through  the  country,  had 
it  not  been  for  the  Custer  massacre. 

Custer's  battle  was  the  last  one  of  any  note  fought  by 
the  blanket  Indians  of  the  plains.     This  last  bloody  stand, 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  75 

where  three  hundred  and  sixty-one  men  offered  up  their  Hves 
on  the  altar  of  their  country,  marks  the  sunset  of  a  dying 
race,  whose  existence  will  continue  to  fade  year  after  year, 
until  at  last  the  memory  only  shall  remain  on  canvas,  and 
on  the  pages  of  history  and  song. 

Custer  still  lives  in  the  heart  of  the  pioneer,  who  tells 
the  tale  of  the  martyrdom  to  listening  children,  and  in  the 
coming  time,  the  name  of  this  illustrious  hero  will  take  a 
place  not  far  below  those  of  Washington  and  Lincoln,  and 
grow  brighter  and  brighter  until  time  shall  be  no  more. 


^6  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


The  Glad  Joy  of  the  Htint— Plant  growth  in  the  Big  Horn  valley— killing 
a  doe— the  shooting  of  Thomas  Randall— I  kill  my  first  grizzly —the  vic- 
tim of  a  murderer— Prior's  pass— the  Big  Horn  mountains— hunting 
bufBaloes— something  about  bears— antelopes— our  guide  turns  back- 
charming  scenery— the  Bad  Lands. 

On  the  night  of  August  20  we  camped  on  the  banks 
of  the  Big  Horn  River,  just  opposite  old  Fort  Smith,  about 
two  miles  from  the  canyon.  The  grass  was  three  feet  high ; 
berries  of  all  kinds  were  in  abundance,  with  wild  plums,  crabs 
and  chokecherries.  We  spent  a  part  of  the  time  prospect- 
ing, and  found  gold,  l&ut  in  very  small  quantities.  It  looked 
as  though  it  had  been  carried  in  the  current  for  a  long  dis- 
tance. As  we  had  been  without  fresh  meat  for  several  days 
and  were  feeling  the  need  of  it,  I  shouldered  my  rifle  and 
started  down  the  river.  The  heavy  undergrowth  of  cotton- 
wood,  berry  bushes,  rose  bushes  and  red  willow  impeded 
my  progress.  Many  wild  ducks  sailed  near,  tempting  me  to 
shoot,  but  I  was  loaded  for  larger  game  and  could  not  af- 
ford to  waste  ammunition.  When  about  two  miles  from 
camp  I  heard  footsteps  and  the  snapping  of  dried  sticks. 
The  sounds  seemed  to  come  from  behind  a  clump  of  bushes, 
and  in  an  instant  my  rifle  was  pointing  toward  the  spot.  T 
advanced  cautiously,  made  a  close  investigation,  but  found 
nothing.  Greatly  puzzled,  I  plunged  on  through  thickets, 
thorns  and  water.  I  must  have  meat.  It  was  a  groundhog 
case ;  fat  bacon  was  below  par.    I  had  eaten  so  much  of  the 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  TJ 

salty  Stuff  that  I  felt  that  I  could  drink  the  river  dry,  and 
was  determined  not  to  return  to  camp  without  a  deer,  elk 
or  bear;  even  a  coyote  (canis  latrans)  would  have  been  pref- 
erable to  any  more  of  that  "sow-belly."  My  clothes  were  al- 
most torn  off  by  thorns  and  briers ;  I  was  a  long  way  from 
camp  and  tired.  Worse  than  all  else  I  had  not  seen  any 
game,  had  not  fired  a  single  shot.  My  resolution  was  fast 
giving  way. 

At  last,  weary  and  dejected,  I  turned  to  retrace  my 
steps,  when  the  stillness  of  the  evening  was  broken  by  a 
rifle  shot.  The  ball  came  singing  through  the  air,  close  to 
where  I  stood.  I  heard  the  rustling  of  boughs,  the  crackling 
of  dead  underwood.  The  next  moment  a  large  white-tail 
doe  came  bounding  into  sight,  like  a  cannon  ball,  trying  to 
break  her  neck  by  leaping  through  the  bushes.  Waiting  un- 
til she  came  to  an  opening,  I  drew  on  her  and  fired.  On 
she  went,  bounding  higher  than  before.  I  shot  again  and 
stopped  her  wild  flight.  The  ball  took  effect  in  her  neck, 
breaking  it.  The  first  ball  had  passed  through  her  lungs  and 
eventually  would  have  resulted  in  her  death. 

The  shooting  brought  the  man  who  had  fired  the  first 
shot  upon  the  scene. 

"Well,"  said  he,  "I  thought  I  gave  her  a  dead  shot.  She 
was  running  straight  from  me,  and  I  aimed  at  her  neck. 
There  it  is." 

I  soon  convinced  him  that  a  deer  could  not  run  a  quar- 
ter of  a  mile  with  its  neck  broken.    He  laughed  and  said : 

"I'll  go  snooks  with  you  on  the  old  lady." 

"That  is  very  generous  on  your  part  and  I  am  willing, 
provided  you  help  carry  it  to  camp,"  I  said. 

We  cut  out  the  entrails,  cut  off  the  head,  tied  the  feet 
together,  hung  the  doe  upon  a  pole  and  started  for  home. 
What  a  load  it  was!     It  swung  to  and  fro,  nearly  jerking 


78  ADVENTURES   OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

US  to  pieces.  When  we  arrived  at  camp  the  boys  were  pro- 
fuse in  their  congratulations.  Just  as  we  were  laying  down 
our  precious  burden,,  bang!  went  a  firearm,  and  Thomas 
Randall  fell  dead  at  our  feet.  The  only  words  he  spoke 
were,  '*Oh!  dear,"  and  the  blood  came  pouring  from  his 
temple.  Charles  Swerts  had  been  sitting  near  by  playing 
with  an  old  Colt's  revolver,  which  went  off  accidentally, 
killing  poor  Tom.  When  Swerts  saw  what  he  had  done,  he 
threw  himself  upon  the  ground  and  writhed  in  agony  of 
spirit;  he  acted  as  one  distracted.  With  tears  and  sobs  he 
begged  the  boys  to  kill  him.  We  gathered  around  poor  Ran- 
dall, tears  flowing  freely  from  every  eye.  Men  who  had  not 
wept  for  years  broke  down,  as  they  looked  upon  the  body. 

Randall  had  joined  us  at  Deadwood,  after  he  had  gained 
the  consent  of  his  parents,  who  lived  in  Chicago.  Wustun 
informed  us  that  he  was  of  one  of  the  first  families  in  that 
city.  He  was  always  kind  and  helpful,  ready  for  any  emer- 
gency and  a  true  gentleman.  We  buried  him  in  the  ceme- 
tery at  Fort  Smith,  making  his  coflin  out  of  the  best  wagon- 
beds  we  had,  finishing  it  as  nicely  as  possible  under  the  cir- 
cumstances. A  mound  was  raised  over  his  grave  and  strewn 
with  beautiful  wild  flowers.  Not  a  few  tears  fell  upon  his 
grave ;  as  we  felt  an  affection  for  him  that  only  mountain 
men,  who  have  roughed  it  together,  can  feel  for  each  other. 
The  day  after  the  burial,  as  we  were  pulling  out,  I  saw 
Charles  Swerts,  with  his  effects,,  leaving  by  himself.  Some 
of  the  boys  had  objected  to  his  traveling  with  the  train  after 
that  fatal  shot. 

The  country  around  Rotten  Grass  is  a  paradise  for 
game.  A  dozen  of  us,  myself  included,  started  hunting, 
half  of  our  number  on  one  side  of  the  stream,  and  half  on 
the  other,  each  eager  to  fire  the  first  shot.  "Look  sharp; 
here  comes  a  buck!     head  him  off."     A  dozen  shots  were 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  79 

fired  at  him,  still  he  wavered  not.  One  shot  had  hit  his 
hind  leg.  When  he  passed  me,  I  gave  him  two  broadsides 
and  he  came  to  grass. 

Some  one  called  out,  "A  bear !"  To  say  that  we  all  ran 
to  get  the  first  shot  would  not  be  doing  justice  to  our  loco- 
motion ;  we  merely  touched  the  ground  in  high  places.  The 
bear  was  in  a  thicket,  and  we  sent  in  a  large  dog  after  him. 
As  he  was  charging  the  dog  out  we  fired  a  half-a-dozen 
shots,  some  of  the  boys  hitting  him.  We  had  not  gone  two 
hundred  yards  when  some  one  on  our  side  of  the  stream 
motioned  us  to  a  large  patch  of  wild  plum  bushes.  He  had 
seen  a  large  grizzly  (ursus  horribilis)  go  in  there,  which 
we  soon  had  corraled.  I  was  on  the  upper  side.  Some  one 
below  said :    "Close  in  and  let  the  hounds  loose." 

I  stood  where  I  could  command  a  good  view,  and  hesi- 
tated about  closing  in ;  but,  as  I  had  never  killed  a  bear  and 
was  very  desirous  for  a  good  shot  at  one,  I  obeyed  the  com- 
mand, jumping  the  thorny  bushes.  I  looked  before  me  and 
saw  the  bear  coming  straight  toward  me.  I  turned  and  tried 
to  run,  but  jumping  down  hill  and  up  hill  are  very  different. 
The  thorns  caught  my  clothes  and  held  me.  On  came  the 
bear,  looking  backward  toward  the  boys  below,  who  had 
started  him.  I  gave  him  a  chance  to  change  his  route,  but  he 
came  straight  ahead.  He  did  not  see  me,  but  I  could  see  his 
turned-up  nose  and  powerful  claws,  and  my  hair,  in  its  en- 
deavor to  stand  upright,  fairly  raised  my  hat  from  my  head. 
With  my  rifle  cocked,  I  waited  for  him  to  come  closer,  hop- 
ing to  get  a  shot  at  the  side  of  his  head  or  the  butt  of  his 
ear.  In  desperation  I  raised  my  rifle,  gave  a  slight  whistle 
to  call  his  attention,  and,  as  he  raised  his  monstrous  head, 
I  gave  him  a  ball  just  above  and  between  the  eyes.  To  my 
relief  he  fell  backward,  tearing  up  earth  and  bushes,  cover- 
ing the  ground  with  his  blood. 


80  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

I  rushed  up  to  stick  my  knife  into  him,  but  found  his 
skin  was  like  an  old  rawhide,  effectually  resisting  my  knife. 
An  old  trapper  who  was  with  us,  told  me  never  to  do  such 
a  thing  again.  I  have  many  times  since  had  cause  to  re- 
member his  words.  I  had  made  a  lucky  shot,  and  thought 
a  bear  was  not  so  terrible  after  all.  All  hunters  know,,  or 
learn  in  time,  that  it  is  not  safe  to  meddle  with  a  wounded 
bear;  some  have  learned  it  to  their  sorrow.  When  we  got 
back  to  camp  we  found  that  together  we  had  killed  three 
bears  and  seven  deer. 

We  stayed  here  the  next  day  and  spent  the  time  hunt- 
ing and  fishing,  with  splendid  success.  In  the  evening  we 
had  another  old-fashioned  concert.  We  had  come  here 
expecting  to  find  a  pass  into  the  Big  Horn  mountains,  but 
no  pass  was  to  be  seen.  Our  guide  had  brought  us  into  a 
country  of  which  he  knew  no  more  than  did  the  rest  of  us, 
and  we  were  obliged  to  return  to  the  Big  Horn  River  to 
make  Pryor's  Pass.  Once  more  we  settled  down  in  the  camp 
where  Randall  was  killed.  We  swam  the  river  in  search 
of  a  crossing-place,  and  were  rewarded  by  finding  a  gravel- 
bed  which  ran  down  the  river,  covered  with  about  four  feet 
of  water  in  the  deepest  places.  While  searching  for  this 
crossing  I  found  a  butcher  knife  and  an  old  six-shooter, 
with  one  charge  out  of  it.  Others  found  different  articles 
of  clothing,  covered  with  blood-stains. 

We  were  convinced  that  there  had  been  foul  work  here 
since  our  departure  four  days  before.  We  set  out  to  un- 
earth the  mystery.  The  ashes  of  our  campfires  still  lay 
scattered  about ;  we  noticed  fresh  dirt  had  been  thrown  upon 
them.  With  our  shovels  we  scraped  the  dirt  and  ashes  away 
and  beheld  the  body  of  a  man.  There  is  no  doubt  that  he 
was  murdered.  In  the  pocket  of  his  coat  we  found  a  small 
packet,  marked  with  his  name,  Harry  J.   Morris,  Vinton, 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  8l 

Iowa,  and  a  few  portraits.  Scattered  around  were  rings  ta- 
ken from  a  bridle  bit,  and  we  immediately  suspected  a  man 
named  Frank  Roberts,  who  came  to  us  when  we  were  here 
btefore  for  the  loan  of  a  cold  chisel  to  cut  the  rings  off  his 
bridle  bit.  We  gathered  all  of  the  murdered  man's  effects 
and  sent  them  to  Fort  Custer  with  the  details  of  the  murder, 
which  was  probably  committed  for  money.  Our  being  driv- 
en to  the  Big  Horn  was  the  means  of  bringing  a  guilty  man 
to  justice,  for  sometime  afterward  the  murderer  was  hanged 
in  Virginia  City. 

Rolling  along  toward  Pryor's  Pass,  the  mountains  were 
seen  in  all  their  grandeur.  The  loftiness  of  mountains,  more 
than  any  other  feature,  fills  us  with  admiration  and  awe,  for 
the  same  reason  that  the  human  soul,  raised  above  the  dross 
of  this  world,  calls  forth  our  deepest  love.  We  were  wind- 
ing our  way  slowly  around  the  base  of  the  Big  Horn  range. 
The  Rockies  in  the  distance  towered  upward  until  snow  and 
sky  seemed  mingling  together.  We  pressed  forward  in  our 
saddles,  peering  on  every  side  that  nothing  might  escape 
our  notice.  A  great  stretch  of  prairie  lay  before  us.  Off 
to  the  right  some  dark  specks  were  seen.  They  looked  like 
birds.  As  we  drew  nearer,  I  dismounted  and  with  my  field- 
glasses  soon  made  out  that  they  were  really  live  buffaloes. 
This  was  my  first  glimpse  of  these  masters  of  the  plains, 
and  a  long  one  it  was.  Then  the  desire  to  pursue  them  took 
full  possession  of  me.  Filling  the  magazine  of  my  Win- 
chester and  inserting  one  in  the  breech,  I  communicated  my 
discovery  to  two  of  the  men,  who  were  riding  fresh  horses, 
and  they  agreed  to  ride  up  behind  the  buffaloes  and  drive 
them  toward  the  train. 

When  the  boys  were  partially  beyond  them,  the  buffa- 
loes detected  the  scent,  threw  up  their  monstrous  heads 
with  a  shake,  and,  with  tails  standing  straight  up,  came 


82  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

thundering  directly  toward  us.  The  boys  followed  as  fast 
as  their  horses  could  carry  them,,  but  were  left  far  behind. 
Having  started  out  to  meet  them,  I  tied  my  horse  to  a  wagon, 
and  stationed  myself  near  the  mouth  of  a  deep  ravine;  the 
others  thought  to  meet  them  as  they  crossed  the  ravine.  In- 
stead of  crossing,  the  buffaloes  ran  toward  its  mouth  (where 
I  stood)  tearing  up  the  earth  with  their  great  hoofs,  their 
tails  erect  and  their  large,  fiery  eyes  gleaming,  looking  like 
creatures  designed  to  scatter  death  and  destruction.  As 
one  came  within  fifty  paces  of  me,  he  received  a  broadside, 
then  another  and  another,  until  I  had  planted  five  bullets  in 
his  shaggy  coat,  when  down  he  came  with  a  thud  that  almost 
shook  the  earth.  In  a  moment  I  was  at  his  side,  watching 
the  black  blood  gush  from  four  wounds  and  spurting  from 
his  mouth  and  nostrils.  He  did  not  relinquish  life  without 
a  struggle,  but  continued  to  kick,  tearing  great  holes  in  the 
earth  wherever  his  hoofs  came  in  contact  with  it,  until  the 
last  breath  had  left  his  body. 

"Now  for  a  robe !"  I  said,  and  commenced  to  skin  him 
with  a  dull  knife ;  but,  finding  that  his  skin  was  three- 
fourths  of  an  inch  thick  and  that  it  would  take  two  days  to 
finish  the  job,  I  took  the  tongue  and  a  large  piece  of  the, 
hump,  leaving  the  remainder  of  my  first  buffalo  where  he 
had  fallen.  The  boys  killed  another,  firing  fully  one  hun- 
dred shots  at  him  before  he  fell.  They  were  not  in  a  posi- 
tion to  get  a  good  shot. 

We  continued  our  broken  journey  and  soon  found  our- 
selves at  Pryor's  Pass.  This  swiftly  flowing  stream  rises 
in  the  Pryor  mountains,  and  is  celebrated  for  its  fine,  large 
trout.  A  trip  into  the  mountains  convinced  us  that  we  were 
in  the  natural  home  of  wild  beasts.  Going  up  the  stream, 
we  heard  a  rifle  shot  and  found  that  Tom  Houston  had  killed 
a  silver-tip  bear,  about  half  grown.     These  bears  make  a 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  83 

savage  fight  when  wounded.  They  ransack  the  country, 
eating  all  kinds  of  berries,  bugs  and  worms.  They  are 
wonderfully  clever  in  finding  game  that  has  been  killed  and 
left  by  hunters ;  I  have  known  them  to  scent  a  dead  elk  sev- 
eral miles  off.  A  wounded  animal  stands  no  chance  of  re- 
covery near  one  of  these  bears,  for  it  is  hunted  down  and 
devoured. 

That  bears  are  slow  on  foot  and  very  awkward  is  an 
idea  prevalent  among  people  who  have  never  seen  nor  hunt- 
ed them.  They  imagine  that  a  good  spry  fellow  can  dodge 
them  very  successfully.  Let  me  give  a  word  of  advice  to 
those  who  are  thinking  of  visiting  the  Rockies  to  play  with 
the  grizzly  for  the  first  time.  The  mouse  does  not  play  with 
the  cat,  but  vice  versa ;  a  man  in  the  power  of  a  bear  has  lit- 
tle or  no  chance  of  escape;  the  bear  is  as  quick  as  a  cat  in 
proportion  to  his  size ;  what  more  can  be  said  of  the  man 
and  the  mouse  ?  To  hunt  bears  one  needs  a  45-60  Winches- 
ter, or  something  as  good,  if  it  can  be  found,  and  a  sharp 
bowieknife.  Armed  thus,  a  man  may  tackle  the  grizzly 
with  safety,  providing  he  knows  how  and  when  to  use  his 
weapon. 

After  the  hunter  has  sighted  his  game,  he  approaches 
it  as  closely  as  possible,  keeping  on  the  leeward  side.  He 
takes  his  stand  near  a  tree,  oj"  where  he  will  have  some 
means  of  escape  should  his  first  shot  fail  to  do  its  work. 
When  all  is  ready,,  if  he  is  unobserved,  he  draws  a  bead  on 
some  small  object  to  see  how  it  is  with  his  nerves ;  if  all  is 
right,  he  takes  a  good  breath,  gets  his  rifle  in  position  and 
gives  a  shrill  whistle.  When  the  grizzly  deigns  to  raise  him- 
self gracefully  upon  his  haunches  to  take  a  look  at  the  hun- 
ter, a  bead  is  drawn  just  between  the  eye  and  ear ;  or,  if  he 
be  facing  the  hunter  squarely,  a  ball  is  given  him  in  the 
center  of  the  throat.    If  the  shot  is  well  directed,  one  is  apt 


84  ADVENTURES   OF   DR.    ALLEN. 

to  say,  "Well!  I  don't  think  it  is  much  of  a  job  to  kill  a 
bear."  If  the  animal  is  only  wounded,  it  is  the  part  of  wis- 
dom to  climb  the  tree  before  it  is  too  late.  Many  have  lost 
their  lives  by  underrating  the  strength  of  a  wounded  bear. 
Heavy  undergrowths  of  brush  and  bushes  do  not  slacken 
the  speed  of  a  thousand-pound  grizzly,  though  it  may  sadly 
inconvenience  the  hunter.  I  have  seen  them  mash  down 
bushes  three  inches  in  diameter  while  making  a  charge. 

Pryor's  Pass  stretches  away  like  a  small  valley,  afford- 
ing ample  room  for  travelers.  While  rounding  a  bend  we 
came  upon  a  young  buffalo  calf  and  gave  him  a  volley 
which  finished  him.  The  report  of  our  guns  started  up  a 
band  of  antelopes.  They  came  directly  toward  us,  intent 
upon  passing  through  the  canyon,  which  would  bring  them 
within  fifty  yards  of  the  wagons.  We  kept  still  until  a  num- 
ber of  them  had  passed,  knowing  that  the  others  would 
follow  or  die,  then  the  firing  began.  Some  of  our  men 
became  so  excited  that  they  fired  at  random  at  the  herd 
collectively.  As  the  antelopes  dashed  past  like  a  flash  of 
lighting,  six  were  killed  and  wounded  out  of  a  band  which 
looked  to  be  five  thousand  in  number.  We  took  only  a  few 
hams  with  us,  for  antelope  (antelocapra  Americana)  is  not 
the  finest  eating  to  be  had  in  the  mountains,  and  we  were 
well  supplied  with  better  game. 

Sage  Creek  rises  in  the  Big  Horn  mountains  and  flows 
into  Wind  River.  The  water  is  pure  and  the  grass  around 
it  is  of  excellent  quality.  Wind  River  flows  through  the 
canyon  of  the  Big  Horn,  and,  as  it  emerges  from  the  canyon, 
it  takes  the  name  of  Big  Horn  River.  Stinking  Water,  a 
tributary  of  Wind  River,  was  so  named  by  the  Crows  from 
several  large  sulphur  springs  found  there,  which  are  des- 
tined to  become  a  great  health  resort.  At  this  point  our 
guide  was  not  only  again  entirely  at  sea,  but  he  had  been 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  85 

for  some  time.  To  escape  the  consequences,  he  made  an 
excuse  to  go  after  provisions,  with  a  family  on  their  way  to 
the  Crow  Agency,  promising  to  be  back  in  three  days.  I 
was  convinced  that  he  did  not  understand  his  business,  that 
he  did  not  know  the  topography  of  the  country  in  which  we 
were,  and  that  he  had  misled  us  from  the  first. 

I  tried  to  persuade  my  friend  Mitten  to  turn  back  with 
me  and  go  to  some  settlement,  where  he  could  find  employ- 
ment. He  received  this  proposition  with  disdain.  No,  in- 
deed !  He  was  to  have  a  gold  mine,  a  corner  lot  in  the  new 
Eldorado.  I  had  asked  him  several  times  to  give  up  the 
trip  with  the  same  result.  This  time  I  told  him  my  oxen 
should  go  no  further — he  owned  the  wagon  and  bedding 
and  I  the  team.  He  became  indignant  and  declared  that 
our  guide  would  be  back  as  he  had  promised,  and  that  I 
would  upset  everything  by  acting  so.  Finally  I  told  him 
that  I  would  go  on  just  to  satisfy  him,  and  if  Lyons 
(the  guide)  ever  came  back,  the  oxen  were  his ;  for  that 
in  my  opinion  Lyons  was  a  scoundrel  and  deserved 
hanging.  He  made  a  great  show  of  indignation  and 
repeated  my  words  to  Lyons,  just  before  he  started. 
Lyons  came  around  with  two  six-shooters,  ready  for  use, 
one  in  each  boot,  thinking  to  scare  some  of  us.  We  crossed 
the  Stinking  Water,  where  we  bade  adieu  to  a  few  of  our 
friends,  whose  destination  was  Bozeman,  and  then  kept  on 
toward  Wind  River. 

The  scenery  was  charming.  In  the  west  the  Rockies 
were  more  clearly  visible  than  they  had  been  before ;  the 
Big  Horn  mountains  to  the  east  looked  as  if  they  might  be 
sentinels,  keeping  guard  over  their  more  majestic  neighbors. 
The  Bad  Lands,  to  the  south,  somewhat  marred  the  picture. 
They  presented  a  very  uninviting  appearance.  Notwith- 
standing  we   were   surrounded   by   so   much   beauty,   our 


86  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

hearts  were  very  sad  and  heavy.  Truly,  there  was  cause 
for  this  feeHng.  Our  provisions  were  nearly  exhausted. 
Our  teams  were  almost  dead  with  fatigue  and  looking 
miserably  poor.  Before  us  were  the  Bad  Lands,  the  worst 
in  America,  and  these  we  must  cross.  We  were  upheld  by 
the  hope  that,  in  spite  of  our  doubts,  we  might  find  the 
glittering  gold  that  would  prospect  thirty  cents  to  the  pan, 
and  pay  us  liberally  for  our  labor  and  hardships. 

We  went  in  the  direction  of  Rattlesnake  Range  and 
passed  the  Owl  Creek  mountains ;  it  was  next  to  impossi- 
ble to  cross  the  Bad  Lands.  There  are  different  stories 
told  of  the  origin  of  these  lands.  Some  think  they  have 
been  subject  to  volcanic  eruptions,  and  some  have  other 
theories  wherewith  to  account  for  their  present  condition. 
The  lands  looked  to  me  as  though  they  once  might  have 
been  covered  with  a  great  forest  of  trees  and  that  this  forest 
had  been  burned  down,  smoldering  deeply  into  the  earth. 
When  you  look  at  the  rocks  you  must  believe  in  the  eruption 
theory,  for  most  of  them  stand  on  edge,  and  have  the  ap- 
pearance of  having  been  hurled  hither  and  thither.  Our  ani- 
mals sank  almost  to  their  knees  in  this  treacherous  ashbed. 
Save  here  and  there  a  few  wild  flowers  of  rare  beauty, 
there  is  no  vegetation. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  87 


CHAPTER  VII, 


A  Stbange  Battle  and  Indian  Horsh  Racks— A  bald  eagle  and  a  rattle- 
snake in  a  death  battle— horse  rEcing— Indian  ponies  successful— white 
men's  strategy— large  bet— Indians  lose  heavily— Indian  riders. 

On  a  beautiful  September  morning,  as  I  was  cantering 
along  a  mountain  divide,  drinking  in  the  fresh  air  and  ad- 
miring the  beauty  of  mountain,  river  and  forest  spread  out 
below  me,  the  stillness  was  suddenly  broken  by  the  shrill 
scream  of  an  eagle.  High  in  the  heavens  I  saw  him,  pre- 
paring to  descend.  Down,,  down,  he  came,  with  the  swift- 
ness of  a  shooting  star,  until  he  had  nearly  reached  the 
earth,  when  he  spread  his  powerful  pinions,  slackened  his 
speed,  and  with  a  sudden  swoop,  alighted  on  a  great  prairie 
rattler  (crotalus  horridus),  about  five  feet  long.  A  battle, 
such  as  I  had  never  before  witnessed,  began. 

I  rode  slowly  toward  the  combatants,  getting  as  near  as 
I  could  without  disturbing  them,  and  eagerly  watched  the 
progress  of  the  fight.  The  bird  was  one  of  the  largest  of 
bald  eagles  (haliaetus  leucocephalus)  and  the  snake  was 
a  monster  of  its  kind,  fully  three  inches  in  diameter.  The 
eagle,  with  its  crest  thrown  backward,  ran  up  to  the  snake 
and,  with  his  wings,  gave  it  a  blow  over  the  head  which 
completely  stunned  it,  just  as  it  was  in  the  act  of  striking 
at  him  with  all  its  force.  Quick  as  thought  the  eagle  then 
caught  the  snake  in  his  talons,  soared  about  ten  feet  in  air, 
gave  it  a  furious  shaking  and  let  it  fall  to  earth,  where  it 
lay  coiled  in  a  warlike  attitude,  rattling  and  hissing. 


88 


ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 


EAGLE  KILLING  A  RATTLESNAKE. 


The  eagle  made  a  second  attack  in  the  same  manner, 
but  the  snake  watched  its  chance,  and,  when  the  eagle  was 
close  enough,  thrust  its  head  between  the  bird's  head  and 
wing,  and,  with  a  desperate  effort,  wound  itself  around  the 
eagle's  body.    It  looked  for  a  moment  as  though  the  power- 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  89 

ful  bird  must  die.  But,  with  a  violent  flap  of  his  wings,  he 
broke  the  deadly  embrace,  caught  the  snake,  gave  it  a  num- 
ber of  jerks,  and  threw  it  down  again.  The  blood  was 
oozing  from  several  places  in  the  rattler's  body  and  this 
seemed  to  make  the  eagle  more  excited  than  ever. 

The  antagonists  now  remained  some  feet  apart  and 
seemed  to  be  resting,  though  the  rattler  kept  up  a  deep 
buzzing,  perhaps  to  intimidate  the  bird. 

The  eagle  next  tried  another  plan,  wheeling  around  his 
enemy  in  a  circle,  but  the  serpent  was  acquainted  with  this 
trick  and  managed  always  to  face  him.  Thus  foiled,  the 
eagle  began  to  whip  the  rattler  with  the  tips  of  his  wings, 
his  head  well  thrown  back,  but  the  snake  dodged  the  blows. 
The  eagle  then  made  a  feint,  jumped  to  one  side  and  struck 
the  snake  a  fearful  blow;  caught  it  up  by  the  middle  and 
shook  it  until  the  snake  was  about  to  twine  itself  around 
his  body,  when  he  again  threw  it  to  the  ground.  Both 
then  showed  signs  of  great  fatigue,  but  neither  seemed  in- 
clined to  give  way. 

The  eagle  ran  round  and  round  his  victim,  in  every  con- 
ceivable way,  but  still  the  snake  managed  to  hold  him  o&„ 
until  he  threw  back  his  head  and  made  a  desperate  drive. 
The  snake  then  struck  with  all  of  its  force  as  the  wing  of 
the  eagle  came  in  contact  with  its  head,  and,  while  trying 
to  again  coil  around  the  eagle's  body,  was  caught  and  car- 
ried into  the  air,  where  it  was  almost  jerked  in  twain. 
When  it  reached  the  ground  its  entrails  were  hanging  out, 
and  it  writhed  and  twisted  in  great  pain.  The  proud  bird 
stood  looking  on  with  the  victorious  air  of  a  pugilist  who 
has  won  a  world-renowned  battle. 

For  the  first  time  he  cast  his  large  eyes  upon  me,  show- 
ing neither  surprise  nor  anger  at  my  presence.  He  seemed 
to  understand  that  I  would  not  molest  him,  for  he  turned  to 


90  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

the  snake  and  gave  it  another  good  shaking,  to  make  sure 
of  its  death.  I  was  tempted  to  take  him  home  as  a  trophy 
of  the  battle,  but  his  unshaken  confidence  in  me  unnerved 
my  arm.  When  the  agonies  of  death  were  over  and  his 
enemy  had  ceased  writhing,  he  stretched  his  wings,  seized 
his  prey  where  the  skin  was  not  broken,  and,  with  a  steady 
flight,  bore  it  to  the  highest  crag  of  the  neighboring  moun- 
tain. As  he  slowly  winged  his  way,  the  huge  serpent  was 
visible  hanging  from  his  powerful  claws.  The  fight  had 
lasted  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  and,  had  the  eagle 
been  less  careful  of  his  head,  he  could  have  torn  the  snake 
to  atoms  in  a  moment,  but  he  seemed  to  realize  the  poison- 
ous nature  of  the  snake,  and  gained  his  victory  by  the  exer- 
cise of  his  strategic  instinct. 

In  the  fall  of  1877,  the  few  straggling  settlers  and  the 
Indians  of  the  Yellowstone  valley  were  seized  with  a  mania 
for  horse  racing.  Betting  ran  high,  and,  as  the  Indians 
were  generally  the  winners,,  the  boys  were  in  very  hard 
circumstances,  owing  to  this  strange  passion,  which  seemed 
to  have  taken  full  possession  of  them.  The  best  horse  in  the 
settlement  had  come  out  far  behind  a  homely,  little  scrub 
belonging  to  the  Crow  tribe,  and  the  boys  were  in  despair 
until  a  bright  thought  struck  them. 

While  the  Indians  were  out  gathering  their  winter  sup- 
plies, the  boys  around  Stillwater  sent  to  Oregon  and  made 
arrangements  whereby  three  renowned  racehorses  should  be 
brought  to  them.  They  kept  the  affair  very  secret,  for  fear 
the  Indians  would  hear  of  it.  Early  in  September  the  war- 
riors returned,  with  an  immense  upply  of  venison,  dried 
buffalo  meat  and  robes.  They  went  into  camp  near  the 
mouth  of  the  Stillwater,  and  soon  commenced  bantering  the 
whites  to  make  races.  Finally  the  boys  agreed  to  race  in 
two  weeks.     Every  day  they  pretended  to  be  training  a 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  QI 

large  bay  colt,  which  could  not  run  at  all,  by  galloping  him 
up  and  down  the  track,  in  sight  of  the  Indian  camp.  This 
colt  was  not  to  run,  but  the  racer  was  another  horse,  which 
very  nearly  resembled  him  in  color.  This  was  a  cunning 
device  to  deceive  the  crafty  Indians  and  to  induce  them  to 
make  large  bets.  The  race  was  to  take  place  at  dusk,  some 
distance  from  camp,  and  the  deception  would  probably  not 
be  noticed  until  afterward. 

I  learned  the  time  set  for  the  racing,,  and  was  glad  that 
the  down  coach  would  land  me  at  H.  Countryman's  in  time 
to  witness  the  event.  The  time  was  changed  to  three  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon,  and  the  settlers  from  one  hundred  miles 
around  were  there,  all  eager  and  excited.  There  were  about 
four  hundred  Indians  present,  including  squaws  and 
papooses.  The  Indian  racehorse  was  brought  out,  and  the 
boys  produced  the  clumsy  bay  they  had  been  training.  The 
Crows  gather  around  him,  looked  him  all  over,  commenced 
betting  freely,  but  when  the  stake  had  reached  fifty  dollars, 
the  boys  refused  to  go  any  higher. 

The  race  was  to  be  six  hundred  yards.  The  horses 
were  to  start  at  the  drop  of  a  hat.  The  Indian  rider  was  a 
boy  ten  years  old,  and  the  white  jockey  was  a  full-grown 
man.  The  white  man  got  about  six  feet  the  start  and  kept 
whipping  his  horse  with  his  hat,  which  scared  the  Indian 
pony  from  the  track,  but  the  boy  gaye  his  pony  the  raw- 
hide on  the  side  of  his  neck,  succeeded  in  getting  him  back, 
and,  in  spite  of  this  loss  of  time,,  he  beat  the  bay  two  lengths. 
Thereupon  the  air  was  filled  with  yells  and  howls,  the 
squaws  and  papooses  dancing  in  their  excitement. 

The  boys  pretended  to  be  very  angry,  but  said  they  had 
another  horse  which  could  beat  him,  so  it  was  brought  out, 
and  this  time  the  bets  ran  up  to  one  hundred  dollars.  A 
little  buckskin  pony  was  selected  this  time  by  the  Crows, 


92  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

and  the  boys  gave  the  little  fellows  three  cheers,  which  the 
Indians  seemed  to  take  as  a  compliment.  The  Indian  pony 
got  about  three  feet  the  start  of  the  other  and  came  out 
twenty  feet  ahead.  This  set  the  first  race  completely  in  the 
shade,  and  the  whoops  and  yells  could  scarcely  be  endured. 
The  Crows  loudly  ridiculed  the  boys,  calling  them  squaws, 
and  acted  like  men  intoxicated.  They  said  their  hearts 
were  good,  their  medicine  was  strong  and  they  had  a  pony 
at  camp  that  could  outrun  anything  the  pale  faces  owned. 

The  boys  pretended  to  be  very  much  cast  down  by  this 
second  defeat,  which  gave  the  Indians  great  confidence  in 
their  ponies,  so  finally  the  Crows  brought  out  their  cham- 
pion race-pony,  and  offered  to  bet  two  to  one  that  he  could 
beat  any  horse  the  settlers  might  bring  forward.  The  time 
had  come  for  the  boys  to  show  their  hand,  so  they  led  out 
Oregon  Snail,  covered  with  dirt,,  his  head  down,  his  mane 
full  of  burrs,  and  he  really  looked  like  an  old  cow. 

The  Indians  laughed  and  hallooed,  calling  him  a  squaw 
pony,  and  made  many  other  disparaging  remarks.  The 
Crows  then  bet  forty  head  of  ponies,  all  the  robes  in  camp, 
and  the  squaws  bet  their  moccasins  and  their  entire  stock  of 
clothing,  just  received  from  the  agency.  The  boys  contin- 
ued betting  until  sure  that  the  Crows  had  staked  every- 
thing they  had,  money  included.  The  owner  of  Snail  had  a 
band  of  cattle,  worth  five  thousand  dollars,  and  he  had 
also  pledged  his  word  to  make  good  every  loss  which  the  set- 
tlers might  sustain  through  extravagant  betting. 

The  Indian  racer,  rode  by  a  son  of  Birdshirt,  was 
champing  his  bit  and  prancing  around  like  a  wild  horse,  but 
his  rider  was  an  expert  and  handled  him  well.  Snail  stood 
with  head  down,  switching  the  flies  with -his  tail  until  the 
word  to  make  ready  was  given,,  when  his  rider,  clad  in  a 
tight-fitting  suit  of  silk,  stepped   forth,  with  a   few  light 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  93 

brushes  cleared  away  the  burrs  and  dtrt,  showing  his  glossy, 
bay  coat,  his  heavy  jet-black  mane  and  tail,,  altogether  a 
noble  looking  animal.  His  bridle  and  blanket  were  quickly 
adjusted,  and,  with  his  large  eyes  shining  like  diamonds, 
he  evidently  understood  what  was  expected  of  him. 

All  was  excitement  among  the  Indians  and  whites  alike. 
When  the  order  was  given  Snail  made  a  plunge  in  the  air, 
with  head  and  tail  erect,  and  the  Indians  began  to  wonder 
what  he  would  do.  The  Indian  rider  would  not  turn  his 
horse  square  around,  and  kept  him  sidewise,  first  on  one 
side  then  on  the  other,  but  was  obliged  to  give  up  this  trick. 
Both  ponies  were  good  runners,  but  Snail's  first  leap  meas- 
ured twenty-two  feet.  He  kept  ahead  all  the  way  around 
and  came  out  forty  yards  in  advance. 

The  Indians  stood  rooted  to  the  spot  as  if  stunned, 
while  the  boys  raised  a  yell  that  cannot  be  described.  Some 
of  the  vanquished  cried,  while  others  laughed,  saying: 
"Pony  heap  good."  The  boys  were  more  than  recom- 
pensed, for  the  cash  value  of  the  bets  amounted  to  from 
twelve  to  fifteen  hundred  dollars.  Some  of  the  squaws 
were  barefooted,  and  the  boys  took  pity  on  them  and  gave 
them  back  their  moccasins.  The  Indians  were  so  thorough- 
ly outwitted  they  could  not  bear  to  remain  in  that  part  of 
the  country,  but  as  quickly  as  possible  withdrew  to  the 
agency. 

Indians  are  very  good  judges  of  horses  and  seldom 
lose  a  race.  Their  riders  are  always  well-trained  boys  of 
light  weight,  but  this  event  for  a  long  time  put  a  stop  to 
racing  in  that  section  of  the  country. 


94  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


About  the  Crows  and  Sioux— Roek  pictures— Rotten  Belly  and  his  Crow 
warriors— Sioux  in  pursuit— sagacity  of  the  Sioux — preparation  for  a 
battle  royal— Crows  j^le  out  for  battle— the  Sioux  attack— the  Crows 
overpowered— a  phantom  white  horse  joins  the  Crows— the  Sioux  are 
panic-stricken— Crows  victorious— Long  Hair— small  pox — two  braves 
sacrifice  themselves— more  rock  pictures. 

The  country  around  Pryor  Creek  was,  in  early  days,  a 
favorite  resort  of  the  Indian  tribes  of  that  region.  There 
was  an  abundance  of  game,  consequently  many  skins  were 
to  be  had.  Here  many  victories  were  celebrated  by  the  joy- 
ful wardance,  which  was  the  outcome  of  many  fierce,  des- 
perate battles.  All  the  way  from  the  mouth  of  the  canyon 
to  the  mountains,  the  scenes  of  past  conflicts  are  pictured 
upon  the  stone  walls  and  upon  every  available  rock,  in  true 
Indian  style.  Warriors  of  the  Crow  tribe  who  still  linger 
around  the  spot,  fraught  with  so  many  pleasing  recollec- 
tions, love  to  interpret  the  pictures  and  figures  cut  in  the 
rocks  and  wax  eloquent  over  the  recital  of  the  events  they 
represent.  Often  in  their  excitement,  in  order  to  express 
the  intense  hatred  which  they  retain  for  enemies  long  since 
passed  away,  they  fire  volleys  against  the  rocks,  where  their 
adversaries  were  wont  to  ride  to  and  fro  in  battle  array. 

These  pictures  upon  the  rocks  are  to  them  what  the 
written  history  of  our  country  is  to  us.  And  even  a  small 
pile  of  stones  may  be  the  symbol  of  a  great  epoch  in  the 
history  of  their  nation.  Rocks  and  stones  are  sometimes 
placed  in  such  a  manner  as  to  describe  the  position  of  the 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  95 

contending  forces.  A  tall,  straight  rock,  standing  by  one 
lying  down,  represents  the  victorious  warrior  standing  over 
his  fallen  foe.  These  symbols  are  placed  in  every  conceiv- 
able shape  and  position,  and  represent  many  different  events. 

In  the  year  1834,  it  is  said,  the  great  Crow  chief.  Rotten 
Belly,  with  a  large  number  of  braves,  was  camping  near  the 
Big  Horn  River,  when  the  news  reached  him  that  a  Sioux 
chief,  famous  in  battle,  was  upon  the  warpath  with  a  great 
force  under  his  command,  and  might  bear  down  upon  the 
camp  at  any  moment.  Rotten  Belly  in  great  alarm  hastily 
removed  to  Pryor  Creek,,  and  prepared  for  the  fall  hunt. 
He  thought  his  enemies  would  not  molest  him  there,  and  if 
they  did,  the  nature  of  the  country,  when  once  they  were  in 
it,  would  give  his  people  some  advantages  over  an  invading 
force.  Not  many  days  after  they  had  left  the  Big  Horn,  the 
Sioux  in  passing  discovered  the  ashes  of  their  campfires, 
and  exulted  in  the  prospect  of  a  battle  in  the  near  future. 

The  sagacious  Sioux  chief,  in  order  to  ascertain  some- 
thing about  the  number  of  the  Crows,  placed  ten  of  his  war- 
riors around  each  of  the  campfires,  that  being  the  number 
usually  allotted  to  a  fire,  and  then  proceeded  to  count  them 
in  his  own  way,  whatever  that  may  have  been.  There  was 
great  rejoicing  when  he  found  that  the  Crows  numbered 
about  three  thousand,  which  was  a  small  number  compared 
with  his  own  followers. 

The  calm  beauty  of  the  night  was  sadly  marred  by 
these  painted,  repulsive  creatures  as  they  went  through  the 
motions  of  the  wardance,  burning  sweet  willows,  and 
'^making  medicine"  until  the  horizon  gave  the  signs  of  ap- 
proaching day.  They  were  anticipating  the  easy  victory  of 
which  they  now  felt  so  sure.  Daylight  found  them  upon  the 
road ;  for  a  hard  day's  ride  lay  before  them,,  over  a  country 
destitute  of  water,  while  the  intense  heat  of  the  sun  scorched 


96  ADVENTURES   OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

their  bodies  and  increased  their  thirst.  But  these  trifles 
disturbed  not  the  tranquihty  of  their  feelings.  They  did 
not  for  a  moment  lose  sight  of  the  scalps  and  plunder  that 
were  sure  to  be  their  reward  when  all  was  over.  So  on 
they  went,  passing  over  the  natural  obstructions  of  the 
region  with  unabated  courage,  until  they  came  within  sight 
of  the  Crow  encampment. 

It  would  be  difficult  for  one  who  has  never  experienced 
the  fears  engendered  by  the  dangers  of  war,  to  imagine  the 
consternation  which  seized  the  Crows  when  they  saw  their 
homiC  hills,  which  encircled  the  place  of  their  birth,  covered 
with  their  most  deadly  foes.  The  sun,  just  sinking  out  of 
sight,  made  the  prospect  more  dark,  the  scenes  more  wild 
and  fearful.  The  impatient  warhorses,  decked  with  feath- 
ers, played  well  their  part.  The  tramping  of  their  hoofs 
as  they  beat  the  earth  and  the  grass  into  fine  dust,  fell  like 
a  knell  upon  the  ears  of  the  Crows,  who  were  unprepared 
for  battle.  They  realized  that  they  were  outnumbered, 
twelve  to  one ;  their  squaws,,  papooses,  and,  dearest  of  all, 
their  ponies,  were  threatened  with  speedy  destruction.  Rot- 
ten Belly,  mounted  upon  his  horse,  his  war  bonnet  fully 
six  feet  in  length,  braided  full  of  eagle  feathers  floating 
through  the  air,  came  riding  forth,  commanding  his  war- 
riors to  strip  and  mount  their  horses  with  all  possible  speed 
for  the  conflict  that  must  soon  ensue. 

No  sooner  had  the  Crows  filed  out  in  order  than  the 
Sioux  made  a  desperate  charge.  The  thunder  of  horses' 
feet  and  the  wild  yells  and  circling  columns  produced  an 
effect  both  weird  and  awful.  The  Crows  were  speedily 
overpowered  and  forced  back  into  a  mountain  gorge,  and 
Rotten  Belly,  realizing  that  unless  something  were  done  at 
once,  his  tribe  would  soon  be  massacred,  resolved  to  resort 
to  stratagem.     He  ordered  his  braves  to  follow  him,  and 


GAUL,  A  SIOUX  CHIEF. 
Prominent  at  Custer's  Death. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  99 

when  they  had  reached  a  httle  rise  on  the  hillside,  he 
called  to  them  in  a  voice  of  desperation,  loud  enough  to  be 
heard  by  the  Sioux  chief — who  at  first  thought  he  was  call- 
ing for  quarter  and  halted  his  men — that  the  Great  Spirit 
would  come  to  their  aid  mounted  upon  a  white  horse,  that 
strength  would  be  given  them  to  kill  their  enemies.  And 
lo !  at  that  very  moment,  there  appeared  at  his  side  a  large, 
white  horse,  bearing  a  white  rider  with  yellow  eyes.  When 
the  Sioux,  who  had  heard  the  words  of  Rotten  Belly,  saw 
his  prophecy  fulfilled,  they  were  panic-stricken,  and,  but  for 
the  commands  of  their  chief,  would  have  fled  from  the  field. 

The  Crows,  feeling  confident  that  the  Great  Spirit  was 
fighting  for  them,  with  an  unearthly  yell  bore  down  upon 
the  enemy.  They  pulled  the  warriors  from  their  horses. 
They  drove  spears  through  them  or  crushed  them  to  the 
earth  with  battle  axes.  The  Sioux  seemed  rooted  to  the 
spot,  stunned  by  the  sudden  turn  of  affairs.  The  Crows 
pressed  forward  to  the  work  of  destruction,  singing  their 
scalping  songs,  their  chief  riding  in  the  van  and  chanting 
the  bloody  song  with  savage  glee,  occasionally  stopping 
long  enough  to  cheer  on  his  braves  in  the  name  of  the  White 
Spirit. 

Unable  longer  to  bear  the  terrible  slaughter,  the  Sioux 
turned  and  fled,  but  were  pursued,  dragged  from  their 
horses,  scalped  and  their  mutilated  bodies  tramped  under 
foot.  Thus  were  they  slaughtered  until  the  kindly  darkness 
hid  the  few  survivors  from  sight.  Their  squaws  were  taken 
prisoners,  and  the  Crows  claim  that  some  of  them  are  still 
living  in  captivity.  The  Sioux  tell  the  same  story  and  be- 
lieve it  implicitly.  Since  that  battle  the  Crows  have  been 
firm  friends  of  the  palefaces,  through  their  love  for  the 
White  Spirit  with  yellow  eyes,  and  they  call  the  white  man 
their  good  medicine.     I  heard  this  story  from  several  dif- 


lOO  ADVENTURES   OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

ferent  members  of  the  Crow  tribe  and  they  all  told  it  alike, 
varying  only  in  minor  details.  What  really  took  place  can 
only  be  imagined. 

In  the  fall  of  1864,  the  story  runs,  Long  Hair,,  a  cele- 
brated chief  of  the  Crows,  was  camped  on  the  Yellowstone 
and  Alkali  Creek  and  the  tribe  filled  about  eight  hundred 
lodges.  All  were  fully  equipped  for  the  fall  hunt,  but, 
when  the  time  to  set  out  arrived,  several  were  taken  sick. 
Each  day  added  one  or  more  warriors  to  the  invalid  list, 
and  it  became  evident  they  would  have  to  postpone  the  hunt 
to  care  for  the  sick  and  dying.  The  disease  from  which  they 
were  suffering  was  none  other  than  small-pox.  Long  Hair 
and  the  medicine  men  retired  to  the  main  medicine  lodge 
and  exerted  all  of  their  skill  to  stop  the  plague,  but  the 
burning  of  roots,  herbs  and  their  strongest  medicine  was  of 
no  avail.  In  despair  they  were  all  helpless,  while  the  war- 
riors fell  off  like  dead  leaves  from  the  forest  trees.  They 
burned  their  robes  and  blankets,  reserving  only  the  best  red 
ones,  which  they  presented  to  the  sun  to  appease  the  wrath 
of  the  Great  Spirit.  But  the  disease  still  continued  to 
spread,  carrying  off  warriors,,  squaws  and  papooses,  while 
their  neglected  ponies  wandered  away  and  were  lost. 

Finally  all  but  forty  of  the  lodges  were  entirely  empty, 
and  the  plague  subsided.  Two  young  braves,  unable  to 
endure  the  loss  of  all  their  kindred,  dressed  themselves  in 
their  best  costumes  and  told  the  few  survivors  that  their 
hearts  were  bad,  and  that  they  were  going  to  join  their 
people  in  the  happy  hunting  ground.  So  saying,  they 
mounted  their  ponies  and  rode  to  the  top  of  the  hill.  Before 
them  lay  a  shelf  of  solid  sandrock  about  one  hundred  feet 
above  the  waters  of  the  Yellowstone,,  extending  twenty  feet 
over  the  ledge,  while  beneath  the  angry  waters  thundered 
through   masses   of  broken   rocks.     When  the  two   young 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  lOI 

braves  reached  the  top  of  the  hill,  they  dismounted,  blind- 
folded their  ponies,  called  upon  the  few  who  had  followed 
them  to  meet  them  where  the  bad  spirit  would  never  more 
kill  their  warriors,  leaped  upon  the  ponies  and  started  at 
full  speed  toward  the  shelf  of  rock.  On  they  went ;  the 
brink  was  reached;  with  the  speed  of  a  deer,  their  ponies 
dashed  into  space,,  down !  down !  down !  The  savage  howls 
of  the  warriors  and  a  loud  thud  in  the  waters  below,  alone 
proclaimed  the  fate  of  the  misguided  braves.  A  large  pile 
of  stones  marks  the  spot  where  the  fearful  plunge  that  sent 
two  souls  into  eternity  was  made. 

Carved  on  a  rock  close  by  is  the  image  of  the  bird  af- 
ter which  their  tribe  was  named.  Several  small  punctures 
in  the  rock,  and  leading  directly  to  its  heart,  signify  that  the 
disease  of  which  they  died  went  straight  to  their  hearts. 
On  the  same  rock  are  the  figures  of  several  warriors  in  a 
leaning  attitude,  representing  their  feelings  when  first  taken 
sick,  while  others  are  lying  on  their  backs  in  their  last  sleep. 


I02  ADVENTURES   OF  DR.   ALLEN. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


How  A  Mountain  Lion  met  his  Fate— First  a  bobcat,  then  an   elk,   then 
the  terror  of  the  plains. 

One  lovely  fall  morning  when  the  leaves  were  yellow 
on  the  Cottonwood,  the  wild  plums  were  brown,  the  red 
leaves  of  the  chokecherry  bushes  were  falling,  and  bunches 
of  berries  hung  in  great  abundance,  I  started  from  camp 
on  horseback  in  search  of  adventure.  The  willow  grouse 
and  pheasants  were  harvesting  the  delicious  fruit,  and  as 
we  crossed  the  narrow  valley  they  flew  before  us  and  set- 
tled in  the  trees.  From  some  points  of  view  these  would 
have  been  enticing,  but  I  was  after  larger  game.  My  path 
lay  diagonally  across  the  foothills  of  the  region  known  as 
Rotten  Grass,  a  tributary  of  the  Big  Horn  mountains,  south 
of  Big  Horn  canyon. 

While  ascending  the  foothills  I  noticed  signs  of  bears 
and  of  mountain  lions.  This  rough  region  is  well  adapted 
to  the  welfare  of  lions,  which  lie  in  wait  for  the  game  as 
it  comes  to  water.  Along  narrow  trails,  with  very  steep 
ascents  among  the  rocks,,  I  led  my  pony.  Large  boulders 
were  loosened  by  the  hoofs  of  my  horse  and  rolled  down 
into  the  green  pines  below.  Our  path  led  to  a  beautiful 
park  in  the  mountain  terrace  where  the  odor  of  bear  was 
quite  strong.  Billy,  my  pony,  tried  to  locate  the  danger 
and  kept  snorting  all  the  while.  Many  holes  had  been 
dug  into  the  ground,  and  logs  had  been  turned  over  and 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  IO5 

the  bark  torn  from  the  trees.  Small  bushes  had  been  demol- 
ished by  bull  elks  brushing  the  velvet  from  their  antlers. 

The  northern  country  was  rough  and  broken,  but  I 
located  several  quaking-asp  thickets,  and,  knowing  that 
springs  must  abound  there,  I  started  toward  them.  Hav- 
ing crossed  the  park,  I  found  many  trails.  I  selected  the 
one  most  traveled  and  soon  came  to  the  remains  of  a  bison 
calf,  killed  the  day  before  and  partially  eaten.  I  dismounted 
for  a  close  examination  and  found  by  fresh  footprints  that 
a  mountain  lion,  a  bear,  a  lynx  and  some  smaller  animals 
had  been  in  the  vicinity,  so  I  made  my  way  carefully  down 
the  stream. 

Presently  I  saw  the  sun  glinting  on  the  silken  skin  of 
a  bobcat  which  lay  asleep.  His  paws  were  stretched  out  and 
he  was  resting  as  quietly  in  the  warm  sun  as  though  the 
avenger  were  not  on  his  trail.  I  quietly  drew  my  rifle  from 
the  sling,  inserted  a  45-85  cartridge  and  placed  it  on  a  line 
with  Mr.  Bobcat's  shoulders.  I  touched  the  trigger  and 
there  was  a  sharp  report.  My  victim  gave  one  gasp,  his 
muscles  twitched  and  with  the  jerking  of  his  legs  all  was 
over.  His  spotted  skin  has  been  reanimated  by  the  taxider- 
mist, and  now  adorns  my  den,  where  he  watches  a  large 
sandhill  crane,  forever  silent,  yet  alert. 

I  now  made  my  way  down  the  ravine  up  which  I  had 
come.  There  was  a  well-beaten  trail  leading  directly 
through  this,  and  I  was  passing  along  at  a  rapid  pace  when 
I  flushed  a  band  of  twenty-five  elks.  They  went  off  like 
a  flash,  having  winded  me.  I  sprang  from  my  horse  in  time 
to  see  a  calf  just  as  it  went  quartering  down  the  hill.  My 
first  shot,  which  struck  him  in  the  flank,  laid  him  in  the 
trail.  I  was  soon  on  the  ground,  and  found  him  to  be  a  fat 
fellow,  though  late  and  of  course  small.  After  his  carcass 
was  secured  behind  my  saddle  I  followed  the  band  down 


I06  ADVENTURES   OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

the  canyon.  Soon  I  found  that  an  enormous  mountain  Hon 
(feHs  concolor:  known  also  as  catamount,,  cougar,  panther 
and  puma)  had  been  pursuing  and  that  when  I  had 
flushed  them,  they  all  went  the  same  direction.  When  I  had 
gone  about  two  miles  I  discovered  that  the  lion  had  aban- 
doned the  trail  and  gone  north. 

Half  a  mile  farther  on  I  left  the  trail  and  took  a  moun- 
tain sheep  path  over  a  ledge  of  rocks.  Here  I  found  a 
bunch  of  five  black-tail  deer  (cervus  Columbianus)  and 
could  have  killed  them  all,  but  they  soon  fled  to  the  north. 
I  followed  in  this  direction,  as  it  was  campward,  and  was 
soon  confronted  by  fallen  timber  and  ledges  of  rock  which 
were  almost  impassable.  I  walked,  leading  Billy,  and  fin- 
ally came  out  on  another  trail  which  led  in  the  direction 
of  Rotten  Grass,  following  the  deer  and  the  lion.  The  lion 
was  a  monster,  evidently  now  on  a  still  hunt  after  the 
deer.  I  believe  he  had  been  in  my  vicinity  the  greater  part 
of  the  day,  and  I  now  determined  to  hunt  him. 

Coming  to  the  creek  bottom,  I  picketed  my  pony  and 
let  him  feed  while  I  took  a  survey.  On  rounding  a  large 
clump  of  bushes  I  found  the  deer  had  scattered  and  had 
come  out  separately.  The  lion  had  not  yet  come  out.  I 
was  quite  excited  as  I  stood  in  a  beaten  trail  just  across 
a  little  creek.  It  seemed  to  me  that  I  detected  either  a  strug- 
gle or  some  faint  sound.  When  I  stepped  forward  to  listen, 
all  was  silent,  save  the  murmuring  of  the  stream  and  the 
falling  of  the  leaves.  Some  power  held  me  to  the  spot,  for 
there  I  stood,  apparently  without  a  motive. 

At  times  I  could  hear  a  noise  as  if  something  were  be- 
ing dragged  along,  and  suddenly  I  faced  the  trail  across  the 
creek,,  and  saw  the  largest  lion  I  had  ever  beheld,  coming 
straight  toward  me.  A  black-tail  doe  was  in  his  mouth,  his 
head  was  as  high  as  his  long  neck  would  allow,  and  the  legs 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  IO7 

and  head  of  the  deer  were  dragging  in  the  bushes.  On  he 
came,  unconscious  of  rriy  presence.  As  his  eyes  were  eleva- 
ted, I  could  hear  him  growl  as  if  to  satisfy  himself,  then 
lash  his  great  tail  from  side  to  side,  apparently  feeling  with 
it  his  way  along  through  the  bushes.  His  massive  jaws 
were  spread  to  their  full  extent,  and  he  had  crushed  the 
deer's  body  until  it  was  almost  cut  in  two. 

He  advanced  deliberately  until  he  reached  the  gravel 
bar  near  the  creek.  I  could  see  that  he  had  torn  a  great 
patch  of  flesh  just  over  the  doe's  heart,  and  as  he  deposited 
his  treasure  on  the  bar,  a  fiendish  gleam  was  in  his  eye.  He 
looked  up  and  down  the  creek  to  see  that  the  coast  was  clear, 
and  then  with  his  great  paw,,  he  turned  the  doe  over  as  a  cat 
would  turn  a  mouse.  He  began  to  suck  the  blood  that  was 
oozing  out  of  the  great  hole  near  the  heart. 

I  stood  motionless,  hoping  that  some  other  lion  would 
come  and  contest  his  right  to  this  dainty  morsel.  Evidently 
he  was  uneasy,  for  as  he  walked  round  the  doe,  he  would 
occasionally  emit  a  low,  deep  growl,  as  if  challenging  all 
others  to  stand  back.  Meantime  his  long,  snaky  tail  sv/ayed 
continually  from  one  side  to  the  other.  Something  surely 
warned  him  of  an  enemy  as  he  wheeled  about  and  faced  me. 
His  bloody  jaws  were  not  more  than  forty  yards  away  from 
me  as  he  opened  his  mouth  and  showed  a  set  of  teeth  dan- 
gerous in  the  extreme.  He  gave  vent  to  a  half  howl  and 
half  growl  which  made  the  cold  chills  creep  over  me, 
although  my  friend,  who  never  has  failed,  was  between  us. 

Death  had  stared  me  in  the  face  many  times  before,  in 
many  different  forms,  and  the  old  Bullard  had  never  been 
found  wanting.  In  this  trying  moment  my  thoughts  ran 
vividly  over  two  bear  fights,  in  which  it  looked  as  though 
the  Supreme  Being  had  interfered.  I  looked  steadily  into 
his  eyes,  but  he  did  not  cower.     The  bristles  were  raising 


I08  ADVENTURES   OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

along  his  back  and  he  looked  like  a  demon  incarnate.  I 
realized  that  in  a  few  bounds  he  could  be  upon  me.  All  this 
ran  through  my  mind  as  I  slowly  raised  my  life  preserver 
to  my  face. 

I  could  see  the  platina  ball  through  the  rear  sight,  show- 
ing plainly  on  his  throat  just  over  the  jugular  vein.  I  was 
calm  now  and  gave  the  signal  trigger  a  gentle  pull.  The 
report  sounded,  and  his  grand  attitude  of  daring,  courage 
and  defiance  was  changed  in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye.  I 
sprang  across  the  creek  and  saw  him  die.  As  I  stood  in  the 
lone  forest,  now  again  as  still  as  death,  save  for  this  mon- 
arch in  convulsions,  I  felt  a  pang  of  regret. 

His  great,  muscular  legs  would  stiffen  as  hard  as  steel, 
and  his  long,  sleek  body  expand  like  bellows  till  it  was  like 
iron,  then  he  would  completely  relax.  His  jaws  would  set 
together  like  a  vise,  then  open,  disclosing  his  great  ivory 
teeth,  which  when  once  fastened  in  flesh,  would  never  let 
go.  His  motions  gradually  became  slower  until  they  ceased 
and  he  was  as  limp  as  an  eel.  His  arm  measured  fourteen 
inches  at  the  body,  and  he  was  certainly  a  perfect  specimen 
of  his  race.  I  have  no  doubt  that  hundreds  of  deer  had  fal- 
len as  his  prey,  but  his  day  was  now  over.  Soon  his  glossy 
hide  was  strung  to  my  saddle  and  I  was  wending  my  way  to 
camp.  The  doe  was  a  young  one  and  it  was  literally  crushed 
to  pieces,  the  liver  and  lights  having  been  torn  out  and  eaten. 

Presently  I  saw  a  band  of  twenty-seven  deer,  and  could 
have  killed  several,  but  let  them  take  their  way  in  peace.  I 
came  out  on  the  Rotten  Grass  Valley  long  after  dark,  and 
saw  our  campfires  far  above.  It  was  a  welcome  sight.  I 
fancied  I  could  feel  their  warmth  as  the  cry  of  the  wolves 
greeted  me  on  all  sides.  My  little  Indian  Billy  soon  got  in, 
and,  after  a  hearty  supper,  my  friends  went  with  me  over 
the  adventures  of  the  exciting  day  and  admired  the  skin  of 
the  vanquished  lion. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  IO9 


CHAPTER  X. 


Descriptive— John  Dunn— a  grand  sunset — I  shoot  a  buck— trout  for  supper — 
cougars— a  Bighorn  sheep— hunting  elk — two  cougars  shot  and  killed — 
golden  eagles. 

We  had  landed  on  Middle  Bowlder  after  two  days'  hard 
riding.  Our  packs  were  badly  shaken  up  from  a  stampede 
that  had  been  caused  by  an  old  she-bear  and  cubs.  We  were 
located  about  two  miles  below  what  we  named  "Devil's 
Slide,"  and  our  object  was  to  get  some  saddles  of  venison 
and  elk,  for  both  deer  and  elks  were  there  abundant. 

It  was  autumn.  The  cottonwood  trees  were  dismantled. 
The  quaking  asps  loomed  tall  and  white.  A  few  leaves  of 
gold  and  white  still  lingered.  We  were  camped  in  the  bend 
of  the  creek  in  a  dense  forest  of  cottonwoods,  whose  swaying 
branches  kept  up  a  continual  warfare  with  the  wind.  The 
rushing  water  rippled  over  sands  of  gold,  carrying  pebbles 
of  every  hue.  Here  was  the  unmolested  home  of  the  moun- 
tain trout  (salmo  purpuratus),  and,  as  I  washed  my  dishes 
I  could  see  hundreds  of  them  of  various  sizes  drifting  idly 
through  the  sparkling  waves.  The  mountain  jays  were  chat- 
tering in  the  trees,  and  the  magpies  were  alert  for  food — if 
it  could  be  stolen  at  any  point. 

John  Dunn,  my  comrade,  had  put  away  the  ponies  and 
was  calling  for  water,  for  which  I  had  been  sent  an  hour 
before.  While  our  weary  horses  satisfied  their  hunger  in  the 
great  meadows,  we  made  a  supper  of  potatoes,  salt  pork  and 
coffee. 


no  ADVENTURES   OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

''John,  what  will  you  breakfast  on — elk,  deer,  mountain 
sheep,  or  trout?"  I  asked.  "I  have  found  that  the  creek  is 
full  of  trout,  and  I  saw  fresh  deer  tracks  in  the  park." 

"Well,  I  am  not  hard  to  please,  but  if  the  sun  will  only 
wait  an  hour  I  will  get  my  old  sailor  hook  and  we  will  have 
some  trout.  If  you  don't  mind  going  up  into  the  quaking- 
asp  thicket,  you  may  have  a  chance  to  get  a  white-tail,  which 
would  go  nicely  with  trout." 

I  adjusted  my  belt,  slung  my  rifle  across  my  shoulder, 
and  started  up  the  creek.  What  a  grand  sunset!  If  old 
earth  had  been  circled  in  flames,  it  could  not  have  looked 
more  beautiful.  The  western  sky  was  almost  scarlet.  Float- 
ing clouds,  passing  over  the  snow-capped  range,  tinted  with 
a  thousand  colors  the  canyons  filled  with  cedars,  and  the 
bare  mountain  peaks  which  reared  their  heads  until  they 
seemed  to  penetrate  the  blue  sky.  The  air  grew  calm  and 
the  waters  seemed  to  hush  their  rippling.  The  elk  stalked 
abroad,  sending  forth  his  challenge  on  the  calm  air. 

My  eyes  fell  on  a  band  of  red  deer  (cervus  Virgin- 
ianus)  which  had  fed  on  the  foliage  fringing  the  creek, 
and,  as  I  gazed  on  the  faultless  forms  of  the  beautiful 
animals,  I  was  stung  with  sorrow  at  the  idea  of  killing  such 
creatures.  How  long  I  stood  there  I  do  not  know,  but  the 
shadows  of  the  tall  pines,  which  stood  out  like  sentinels 
of  the  night,  were  casting  long,  fairy-like  shadows  far  down 
the  valley.  The  deer  were  now  within  a  hundred  paces, 
and  would  soon  show  me  flags  as  they  bounded  over  the  red 
willows.  I  raised  my  rifle  and  slowly  set  the  hammer  at 
full  cock.  A  fawn  walked  toward  the  lord  of  the  herd,  who 
seemed  to  caress  it  as  he  rested  his  great  antler-crowned 
head  against  the  fawn's  shoulder,  the  while  he  gazed  at  me, 
his  eyes  sparkling.  I  changed  my  mind,  and,  as  the  sun- 
light sparkled  along  the  barrel,  I  pressed  the  trigger,  send- 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  Ill 

ing  a  bullet  through  the  buck's  heart.  As  if  by  magic  a 
dozen  flags  went  up,  and,  as  the  sun  disappeared,  I  saw 
them  vanish  in  the  evergreens  across  the  creek. 

I  went  to  the  place  where  the  buck  lay,  took  his  head 
and  saddle  to  camp  and  prepared  the  head,  which  to-day 
adorns  my  home  and  often  recalls  memories  of  that  golden 
sunset.  In  camp  I  found  John  frying  trout  for  our  supper. 
With  broiled  tenderloins,  coffee,  roasted  potatoes,  and  trout, 
we  feasted  royally.  In  order  to  have  him  on  hand  early,,  I 
picketed  my  pony  close  at  hand  before  we  turned  in,  to  be 
lulled  to  sleep  by  the  rushing  water  of  the  creek. 

Long  before  the  break  of  day  we  were  cooking  break- 
fast, and,  although  the  roasted  potatoes  were  nearly  all 
burned  after  passing  a  night  under  the  cottonwood  coals, 
we  found  sufficient,  and  before  the  light  began  to  break  in 
the  eastern  horizon,  I  was  hurrying  toward  the  mountain 
top.  After  several  miles  of  climbing,  I  found  myself  in  a 
little  park,  dotted  with  handsome  cone-shaped  pine  trees, 
while  the  rimrock  was  covered  with  small  cedars,  junipers, 
and  bunches  of  soap  weeds. 

While  admiring  the  enchanting  scene  I  heard  a  cry, 
long  and  pitiful,  as  though  a  lost  child  were  near.  It  grew 
fainter  and  gradually  died  away,  but  was  repeated  at  inter- 
vals. Day  was  breaking  as  the  cry  of  the  cat-owl  was  heard, 
coming  from  the  far-off  canyon ;  then  came  the  cry  from 
another  direction.  Could  it  be  possible  a  child  had  been 
lost  in  this  place  ?  No,  the  plaintive  cry  is  one  never  for- 
gotten by  the  mountaineer  or  traveler  who  has  heard  it 
before.  It  was  lonely  enough  on  the  mountain  before  day 
light  came,  but  the  dismal  cries  of  the  owls  and  cougars  made 
it  worse.  Here  and  there  I  could  see  fresh  tracks  where 
some  animal  had  been  running,  and,  after  I  had  tied  my 
pony,  I  found  hoof  marks  where  mountain  sheep  had  passed. 


112  ADVENTURES   OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

I  was  convinced  that  the  cougars  had  been  in  reach  of 
game,  had  separated,  and  wert  now  calHng  to  each  other, 
so  J  went  in  pursuit  of  the  first  one.  I  passed  through  some 
timber,  where  it  was  dark  as  Egypt,  my  feet  sinking  deep 
in  the  soft  vegetation  and  decayed  pine  cones.  The  awful 
silence  was  painful  and  seemed  like  a  dream  of  the  infernal 
regions.  I  pushed  along  a  game  trail,  hoping  to  reach  the 
upper  rimrock.  After  going  half-a-mile,  I  could  observe  I 
was  nearing  the  ridge  as  light  began  to  dawn.  Jutting  out 
into  a  pretty  park  was  a  splendid  reef  of  gray  sandstone 
about  fifteen  feet  high,  over  which  I  could  see  the  tops  of 
pines  in  the  park. 

The  songs  of  birds  sounded  on  the  morning  air,  and 
the  little  chipmunks  and  cottontails  (lepus  sylvaticus),  also 
called  Molly  cottontail),  skipped  about,  while  the  "camp-rob- 
bers," or  mountain  jays,  were  plucking  the  sweet  pine-nuts 
from  cones  that  hung  low  in  great  abundance.  Some  fool- 
hens  were  slowly  sauntering  along,  scarcely  leaving  the  trail 
as  I  passed.  I  had  almost  gained  a  break  in  the  rimrock 
when  I  caught  sight  of  a  monster  bighorn  sheep  (ovis  or 
caprovis  montana).  He  was  not  feeding,  and  seemed  very 
uneasy.  Soon  I  saw  him  bound  up  on  a  ledge  of  rocks, 
stand  like  a  gladiator,  whirl,  and  with  head  lowered,  bound 
at  something  below. 

My  heart  was  steady,  and  I  crept  along  as  fast  as  the 
nature  of  the  ground  would  permit.  He  had  disappeared. 
No ;  for  in  a  moment  the  bighorn  reappeared  on  the  scene, 
and  stood  gazing  first  above  and  then  below  him.  I  pressed 
the  butt  of  the  rifle  to  my  shoulder  and  ran  my  eye  along 
the  barrel.  Then  I  lowered  it,  certain  that  something  of 
interest  would  soon  transpire. 

He  stepped  forward.  His  great  brown  eyes  were 
riveted  on  some  object  on  the  rocks  above  him.     Then  he 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  II 5 

dashed  round  a  point  by  an  old  dead  tree,  and  I  thought 
I  had  been  very  fooHsh  to  let  curiosity  get  the  better  of  me. 
But  I  crept  forward  to  a  large  rock  and  crouched  under  the 
boughs  of  an  evergreen  tree  just  as  the  bighorn  rushed 
back  and  sprang  to  his  old  stand  on  the  ledge. 

I  could  see  nothing  but  the  bighorn.  Was  he  crazy,  or 
was  he  scenting  danger  ?  I  was  determined  to  find  out  what 
troubled  him.  I  knew  he  could  not  scent  me,  for  what  little 
wind  there  was  blew  from  him  toward  me.  I  stood  up, 
defying  the  bighorn  to  run,  well  knowing  I  could  cut  him 
down  with  a  shot.  If  he  saw  me  he  either  dared  not  or 
would  not  run,  and  as  I  stood  on  tiptoe  I  caught  the  out- 
lines of  something  above.  Oh,  those  fiendish  ears — that 
long,  snake-like  tail  moving  slowly  to  and  fro ! 

I  climbed  upon  the  rock  in  time  to  see  two  monster  cou- 
gars crouch  low  on  the  eareh.  Closer  to  the  ground  they 
crouched,  great  cowards  that  they  are,  for  they  never  fight 
an  armed  foe.  They  crouched  still  lower,  till  only  their  ears 
could  be  seen.  The  bighorn  seemed  paralyzed.  He  could 
not  help  seeing  me,  as  I  stood  erect  in  plain  view  of  him.  I 
did  not  know  what  to  do,  but  I  crept  up  the  rock  in  front  of 
me  and  peered  over  the  rim.  The  cougars  had  gone.  The 
bighorn  seemed  to  awake  from  a  trance,  and  as  he  bounded 
away  I  fired.  It  was  a  weird,  wild  strain  of  music  which 
the  echoes  awakened  as  the  shot  set  the  wild  woods  in  a 
clatter  from  the  magpies  and  jays. 

The  bighorn  lay  dying.  The  bullet  had  struck  him  on 
the  shoulder  and  penetrated  the  neck.  He  was  a  beautiful 
specimen,  with  his  great  horns  and  autumn  coat  of  blue 
hair.  Could  I  have  killed  one  of  the  cougars  what  a  thrill 
of  joy  I  should  have  felt.  As  I  cut  out  a  ham  I  determined 
to  try  for  them  next  morning,  believing  they  would  come 
again,  find  the  game,  and  feast  upon  it.     Taking  out  the 


Il6  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

liver  and  heart  and  stripping  the  body  of  the  skin,  so  that 
the  cougars  could  not  ruin  the  head,  I  departed  by  the  trail 
over  which  I  came,  first  having  blazed  several  trees  with 
my  knife,  that  I  might  find  my  way  if  it  should  be  dark. 

Reaching  my  pony,  I  descended  the  mountain  and 
found  it  was  a  great  sheep  country.  I  saw  plenty  of  fresh 
signs,  numerous  trails  had  crossed  mine  since  I  ascended. 
I  was  leading  my  pony  down  the  second  rimrock  when 
twelve  large  bull  elks,  appeared  coming  down  the  mountain, 
their  antlers  glistening  in  the  sunlight  like  an  army  with 
drawn  sabres.  On  they  came  with  great  strides,  crashing 
through  dead  brush  and  over  bushes,  swinging  their  hand- 
some heads  with  ponderous  antlers  lying  well  back,  spread- 
ing the  low  branches  of  the  pines. 

They  were  entering  a  park  when  I  fired  at  a  large, 
dark-colored  bull  that  was  well  in  the  lead.  I  had  taken  a 
quartering  shot  at  him,  but  was  amazed  to  think  I  had 
struck  him  in  the  back,  for  with  the  report  his  back  jerked 
suddenly  downward.  All  of  the  herd  quickly  disappeared. 
About  four  hundred  paces  down  their  trail  I  found  my  bull 
which  had  fallen  dead  without  a  struggle.  On  cleaning 
him  I  found  the  heart  pierced  a  little  below  the  center. 

John  was  dressing  a  large  white-tail  buck  when  I 
reached  camp.  Night  came  on,  and  after  a  hearty  supper 
we  picketed  the  horses  close  to  camp,  and,  seated  near  the 
glowing  fire,  related  our  adventures  of  the  day. 

"I  saw  your  elks,  Allen,"  John  began ;  "they  were  go- 
ing down  the  mountainside  like  a  cyclone.  They  went  down 
the  creek  and  will  cross  about  ten  miles  below  here.  They 
will  run  until  they  cross  the  running  water ;  then  they  will 
stop." 

''They  are  like  Tam  O'Shanter  and  the  witches  after  the 
gray  mare  Meg,"  said  I. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  "      II7 

The  night  thickened  into  inky  darkness,  the  wind  howl- 
ed, the  trees  were  torn  almost  asunder,  while  the  rushing 
water  of  the  creek  mingled  its  roar  with  the  blast.  But  we 
slept  through  it  all,  to  be  awakened  early  by  the  alarmed 
chirping  of  some  bird,,  as  though  it  were  at  war  with  all  its 
kind.    After  breakfast  John  said : 

^T  am  going  after  those  elks.  What  say  you  ?" 

"Well,  John,  I  have  a  bait  on  the  mountain,  and  will  go 
there  if  you  are  willing." 

Groping  my  way  in  the  dark,  I  kept  on  until  I  had 
gained  the  beautiful  park.  I  could  hear  game  breaking 
through  the  underbrush,  but  could  see  nothing.  I  found  the 
trail  through  the  belt  of  green  timber,  and  could  see  the 
blazes  as  they  stood  out  ghost-like,  seeming  much  larger 
than  they  really  were. 

Passing  through  the  timber  I  turned  in  a  opposite 
direction  from  that  I  had  taken  the  previous  day,  found  a 
break  in  the  rimrock  and  made  a  circuit,  keeping  the  old, 
dead  pine  as  a  guide.  I  had  marked  my  ground  well  the 
day  before,  and  knew  just  where  to  come  upon  my  pets  if 
they  were  at  breakfast. 

I  examined  the  wind  and  found  it  blowing  at  right 
angles  to  my  route.  I  took  up  a  handful  of  dry  grass  and 
threw  it  as  high  as  I  could.  The  direction  of  any  wind  that 
may  be  stirring  can  readily  be  ascertained  in  this  way. 

Daylight  had  come.  I  rounded  the  tree  with  the  dead 
top,  and,  with  bridle  reins  over  my  arm,  had  gained  a  good 
footing  on  the  soft  rock.  There  was  my  sheep's  head,  the 
body,  and  even  the  horns,  almost  torn  to  shreds,  and  the 
great  male  cougar  with  his  sides  distended  to  their  fullest 
extent,  was  standing  over  the  carcass,  snarling  fiendishly 
at  his  mate. 

She  had  backed  up  under  a  ledge,  and  was  trying  to 


Il8  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

argue  the  case  with  her  lord.  His  tail  curled  like  a  restless 
viper,  lashing  the  air  from  side  to  side  while  he  grew  more 
restless.  I  stood  there,  but  only  a  moment,  and,  as  he  tore  a 
great  chunk  from  the  carcass,  with  his  claws  dug  into  it,  I 
would  have  given  anything  I  possessed  for  a  picture  of  him 
with  the  sweet  morsel  in  his  great  paws,  and  his  fierce  and 
threatening  attitude.  I  sent  a  bullet  through  his  skull.  My 
horse  sprang  back  and  ran  up  the  trail.  The  female  bounded 
across  the  flat. 

As  the  echoes  of  the  first  shot  were  thundering  through 
the  glens  I  gave  her  majesty  a  quartering  shot,  which  struck 
her  in  the  flank.  She  cried  out,  bit  the  spot  as  she  ran,  and 
rolled  over.  The  second  bullet  caught  her  in  the  fore  leg. 
Down  she  went,  tumbling  over  and  over.  Quick  as  a  flash  I 
gave  her  a  third  shot,  which  stopped  her.  Scream  and  echo 
sounded  and  resounded,  until  the  last  wail  of  death  faded 
away  in  the  lowlands  of  the  valley. 

My  horse  had  stopped  and  was  feeding  in  the  park,  so  I 
examined  the  battlefield.  The  male  cougar's  skull  was  com- 
pletely crushed,,  his  teeth  knocked  out,  his  brains  scattered 
over  the  rocks.  The  45-85-300  cartridge  had  been  effective. 
After  an  hour's  hard  work,  the  skins,  with  my  sheep  horns, 
were  in  a  portable  condition.  I  killed  a  youngr  bighorn  sheep 
on  my  way  back  to  camp. 

Meanwhile  three  large  golden  eagles  had  almost  ruined 
my  elk  meat.  They  were  so  loaded  down  they  could 
scarcely  fly.  They  had  eaten  out  the  eyes  and  then  selected 
choice  bits  of  the  meat.  One  of  them  sailed  over  me  so  close 
I  thought  he  meditated  an  attack  on  me,  and  as  he  circled 
round  the  second  time  I  shot  him.  I  secured  his  tail  feath- 
ers, which  are  deemed  very  valuable  among  the  Crow  In- 
dians, and  hastened  to  camp  as  fast  as  my  weight  of  trophies 
would  permit.  John  had  killed  another  white-tail  deer.  We 
hunted  bears  the  next  few  days  with  satisfactory  results. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  121 


CHAPTER  XI, 


Hunting  Big  Game— Waiting  for  our  guide— more  killing  of  elk— a  great 
game  country— another  mountain  lion  —  hunting:  bears  —  vengeance 
vowed  on  treacherous  guide  going  through  the  Bad  Lands — luck  in 
hunting  buffaloes- the  Crow  reservation— we  camp  on  Deer  Creek— arrive 
at  Boseman. 


After  a  terrible  pull  we  reached  Wind  River,  our  horses 
panting  from  over  exertion.  Here  the  grass  was  very  poor, 
and,  being  obliged  to  find  grazing  for  our  teams,  we  went 
up  the  river  about  a  mile,  where  we  found  a  plentiful  sup- 
ply of  good  grass.  At  this  place  we  were  to  wait  the  return 
of  our  famous  guide.  He  had  named  the  day  and  hour  when 
he  should  rejoin  us.  After  our  late  exertions  we  were 
greatly  depressed  in  spirit.  Something  had  to  be  done. 
We  were  out  of  meat  and  nearly  out  of  everything  else.  As 
we  were  hundreds  of  miles  from  any  settlement,  in  the 
heart  of  a  great  desert,  and  without  any  guide,  many  of  the 
party  gave  themselves  up  to  tears  and  bitter  lamentations. 

I  was  vexed  for  having  been  persuaded  against  my 
better  judgment  to  travel  into  this  desert,  and  took  a  wicked 
kind  of  pleasure  in  reminding  the  members  of  the  company 
that,  at  a  certain  hour,  our  guide  would  appear  like  a  good 
fairy  and  deliver  us  from  our  trouble.  The  boys  were  deter- 
mined to  wait  for  him,,  whatever  might  happen.  Next 
morning  I  started  up  the  river  in  search  of  game,  which  I 
knew  could  not  be  far  off.  I  soon  heard  a  bull  elk  (cervus 
Canadensis)   breaking  through  the  bushes  with  his  horns 


122  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

and  crept  quietly  toward  him.  I  saw  his  great  horns,  his 
black  neck,  his  large  gray  body.  I  stooped  down,  and,  with 
my  gun  across  my  knee,  aimed  for  his  neck,  which  the  shot 
broke.  As  he  fell  back  dead,  three  more  elk  ran  out  of  the 
cover  below  him,  and  I  succeeded  in  also  killing  one  of 
them.  I  could  not  bring  them  in  myself  and  returned  to 
camp  to  get  help.  We  dressed  these  elk,  cut  the  flesh  into 
slices,  hung  it  upon  a  pole  and  dried  it  in  the  sun.  When 
properly  dried,  it  is  tender  and  delicious. 

We  had  several  days  of  waiting  before  us,  so  Nickelson, 
Mitten,  and  myself  went  off  for  a  further  hunt.  We  were 
walking  leisurely  along  when  we  espied  above  a  sagebush  a 
large  pair  of  antlers.  We  approached,  Nickelson  in  advance, 
but  he  was  in  no  hurry  to  shoot  and  kept  edging  nearer, 
peeping  at  the  animal  over  the  brush,  when  isuddenly  the  elk 
scented  us,  and,  with  a  bound,  left  us  to  ourselves.  We 
gave  him  a  volley,,  but  missed  him  entirely.  With  my  Win- 
chester I  had  the  advantage  of  the  boys,  who  carried  Sharp's 
rifles ;  when  the  elk  was  about  one  hundred  yards  off,  I 
threw  in  a  cartridge,  and  gave  him  a  shot  which  took  eflfect 
in  his  back.  This  turned  him  at  right  angles,  and  I  shot 
him  through  the  lungs,  but  these  wounds  did  not  prevent 
him  from  taking  to  the  woods  at  a  good  pace. 

Just  then  smash,  smash,  went  the  bushes,  as  they  gave 
way  beneath  his  great  weight,  and  we  caught  sight  of  him, 
struggling  on,  covered  with  blood.  Three  shots  rang  out 
into  the  air,  and  he  staggered,,  reeled  like  a  drunken  man, 
turned  a  short  circle,  and  fell  on  his  side  at  the  water's  edge. 
His  violent  struggles  were  bearing  him,  out  into  the  river, 
which  was  crimson  with  blood  around  him,  when  we  drop- 
ped our  guns  and  dragged  him  ashore.  Fourteen  large 
and  well-developed  antlers  graced  his  shaggy  head,  which 
weighed  one  hundred  pounds.    This  was  a  great  prize  to  us 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  1 23 

in  our  present  condition.  We  quartered  him,  hung  him  up 
and  then  started  for  camp  by  different  routes. 

I  took  the  river  bank,  and,  as  I  sauntered  along,  I 
noted  numerous  signs  of  game,  and  felt  that  it  would  not  be 
a  bad  place  to  camp  for  the  winter ;  but  where  were  the  pro- 
visions, the  pack  animals,  the  wolf  poison,  and  other  indis- 
pensables  of  a  winter  camp  ?  Clearly  such  a  camp  would  be 
impossible  for  us,  and  I  dismissed  the  thought.  Other  signs 
I  found  were  numerous,  and  the  river  banks  were  dotted 
with  beaver  houses.  As  I  moved  on,  the  signs  of  elk  and 
bear  became  more  fresh.  The  earth  was  entirely  covered 
with  hoof  prints  and  the  smell  was  unmistakable.  I  paused 
in  surprise.  Could  it  be  a  mule  that  I  saw  standing  among 
the  bushes  ?  Impossible !  There  were  no  farmers  in  that 
country !  On  closer  inspection  I  saw  it  was  a  large  cow  elk, 
with  ears  larger  than  a  mule's  and  without  horns. 

Advancing  a  few  steps,  I  saw  there  were  fifty  elk  at 
least  in  view.  I  knelt  upon  one  knee  and  took  deliberate 
aim  at  my  mule  and  fired.  What  a  commotion  it  caused! 
What  a  rushing  and  thrashing  of  bushes !  Bushes  and  small 
Cottonwood  trees  were  literally  trampled  into  the  earth. 
The  valley  and  forest  resounded  with  the  clatter  of  hoofs. 
The  boys  renewed  the  firing  from  the  other  side  and  turned 
them  toward  the  river.  When  the  old  bulls  struck  the  water, 
the  current  seemed  to  stop.  There  arose  a  terrible  din.  The 
clashing  of  their  horns  against  the  trees  as  they  made  for 
the  river,  the  noise  of  their  hoofs  and  the  splashing  of  water 
sounded  like  a  hurricane  in  full  blast. 

I  shot  a  large  bull  in  the  river,  but  he  was  trampled  un- 
der the  feet  of  his  followers  in  the  deep  water  and  was  seen 
no  more ;  I  fired  at  another  one  with  giant  antlers,  just  as 
he  was  plunging  in.  He  was  also  hurled  beneath  the  waters. 
We  killed  seven  elk  and  recovered  but  one.     There  must 


124  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

have  been  five  thousand  of  them.  We  could  see  them  for 
miles,  rushing  up  the  rugged  mountain,  until  they  disap- 
peared in  a  large,  timbered  canyon.  We  cut  the  horns  off 
our  elks  and  hung  them  in  a  tree. 

I  remembered  that  I  had  shot  at  a  cow  elk  a  little  way 
up  the  river  before  the  stampede  and  went  back  to  look  for 
her,  but  she  had  disappeared.  I  was  almost  sure  that  I  had 
hit  her,  and  could  not  account  for  her  absence ;  I  examined 
the  ground  carefully  for  traces  of  blood  or  hair,  but  none 
were  to  be  seen.  At  last  I  observed  a  small  tree,  with  a 
bullet  mark  upon  it,  where  a  ball  had  evidently  struck  it  and 
glanced  off;  this  explained  the  mystery.  The  tree  had 
defrauded  me  of  my  cow.  I  was  turning  away  when  I 
caught  sight  of  a  fresh  trail  through  the  bushes  that  looked 
as  if  some  heavy  body  had  been  dragged  over  it.  I  fol- 
lowed this  trail,  scanning  every  bush  until  I  came  to  a  hole 
in  the  ground,  the  size  of  a  large  hogshead,  where  the  trail 
entered  this  slanting  hole.  Below  I  could  see  an  elk  calf. 
Further  examinations  proved  that  this  was  the  den  of  a 
mountain  lion.  I  cut  a  long  and  strong  hooked  pole,,  and 
commenced  fishing  for  the  calf.  I  soon  heard  a  low  rumb- 
ling noise  in  the  cavern,  and  beheld,  far  down,  a  pair  of 
glittering  fire-balls.  I  drew  a  bead  full  between  the  eyes  and 
fired.  The  flash  and  report  of  the  gun,  mingling  with  the 
dismal  roar,  was  deafening,  but  quiet  reigned  within  the 
cavern.     My  ball  had  sped  home. 

With  my  pole  I  worked  long  and  hard  and  finally 
succeeded  in  pulling  the  calf  above  ground.  I  was  very 
much  surprised  to  find  a  bullet  hole  in  its  head.  It  was 
standing  about  thirty  feet  from  the  cow  when  I  fired  at  her 
and  the  ball  must  have  glanced  from  the  tree  and  struck 
it  in  the  head.  This  was  the  only  way  I  could  account  for  it. 
I  wanted  very  much  to  see  how  it  fared  with  my  lion,  but 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  125 

did  not  care  to  make  further  investigations.  Assisted  by 
the  boys,  we  packed  our  game  to  camp  and  busied  ourselves 
in  drying  it  for  future  use.  We  were  afterward  very  thank- 
ful that  we  had  made  this  provision. 

We  had  killed  a  deer  the  day  before  and  left  it  hanging 
upon  a  tree.  We  thought  it  time  to  be  looking  after  it,  and 
went  to  the  spot.  Our  deer  was  not  here !  The  tracks  of  a 
large  bear  were  visible,  which  explained  matters,  and,  while 
the  boys  were  gathering  in  the  game,  I  took  a  turn  after  the 
thief.  The  deer  was  a  large  black-tail  buck,  and,  as  he  was 
dragged  along,  he  made  a  broad  trail,,  which  was  easy  to  fol- 
low. It  led  me  over  brush  and  sandbeds  for  a  long  distance, 
but  just  as  I  was  beginning  to  feel  tired,  I  ran  against  my 
deer  in  a  thick  clump  of  willows.  He  was  torn  to  pieces 
and  covered  over  with  earth  and  leaves,  looking  as  though 
he  had  been  placed  there  to  remain.  I  waited  patiently  for 
a  long  time,  expecting  a  visit  from  Bruin,  but  he  did  not 
make  his  appearance,  so,  after  a  thorough  search  of  the  sur- 
rounding thickets,  I  went  to  camp  with  the  determination 
to  visit  the  spot  again  before  sunset,  when  he  was  sure  to 
come  back  to  feast  off  the  deer.  As  the  sun  neared  the 
horizon  I  cleaned  my  rifle,  filled  my  cartridge-belt,  put  on 
a  pair  of  Indian  moccasins  and  started  out  alone.  I  always 
like  to  be  alone  when  hunting  bears,  as  there  should  be  as 
little  noise  as  possible.  I  approached,  not  a  little  anxious 
for  my  own  safety.  The  grave-like  mound  had  not  been 
touched,  and  I  knew  that  so  far  the  coast  was  clear.  After 
cutting  a  small  opening  through  the  bushes,  I  sat  down  by 
a  Cottonwood  tree,  with  low  spreading  branches.  A  few  of 
the  thickest  of  these  I  cut  off  in  case  I  should  be  forced  to 
climb  the  tree. 

I  had  been  waiting  what  appeared  to  me  a  long  time, 
when  I  heard  a  rustling  behind  me ;  I  turned,  and,  not  forty 


126  ADVENTURES   OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

yards  off,  was  a  monstrous  cinnamon  bear.  He  was  stand- 
ing erect  upon  his  haunches,  and  seemed  to  be  seven  feet 
tall.  As  I  brought  my  gun  into  position,  he  turned  and  beat 
a  hasty  retreat,  but  I  gave  him  a  shot  from  the  rear.  With 
a  roar  like  that  of  an  infuriated  bull,  he  charged  upon  me 
so  quickly  that  I  could  not  get  a  shot,  but  dropped  my  gun 
and  took  to  the  tree.  He  tore  branches  away  and  gnawed 
at  the  tree  in  his  rage.  He  then  lay  down  to  guard  the  tree, 
lest  I  should  escape  his  vengeance.  At  every  move  I  made 
he  got  up  and  renewed  the  attack.  After  a  time  either  ex- 
treme thirst,  or  the  pain  of  his  wound,  drove  him  forth  in 
search  of  water. 

I  climbed  down  with  alacrity,  picked  up  my  gun  and 
started  after  him.  He  was  wallowing  in  the  water  when  I 
whistled.  He  raised  himself,  received  a  ball  from  my  rifle 
and  floundered  out  into  deep  water.  I  rushed  in  up  to  my 
waist  and  caught  hold  of  him,  but  too  late,  for  I  was  fast 
losing  my  footing  and  was  obliged  to  draw  back.  My 
prize  had  slipped  out  of  my  hands ;  I  had  nothing  to  show 
for  my  perseverance,  and  the  boys  would  not  believe  the 
story  if  I  told  them,  so  I  kept  silent.  On  my  way  to  camp 
I  killed  a  large  wild  cat — a  poor  substitute  for  my  lost  bear. 

The  time  had  now  come  for  our  guide  to  appear.  The 
last  hour  was  gone.  The  sanguine  ones,  who  were  to  have 
rich  mines  and  corner  lots,  began  to  droop.  They  found 
themselves  without  money,  with  no  means  of  getting  any. 
Lyons,  with  his  smooth  speech  and  ready  promises,  had 
succeeded  in  relieving  them  of  three  or  four  hundred  dol- 
lars. An  indignation  meeting  was  called,  at  which  the  fate 
of  the  culprit  was  decided.  Three  men  were  to  go  after 
him,  bring  him  to  our  camp,  and  then  he  should  be  hanged 
to  the  nearest  tree.  This  was  much  easier  to  plan  than  to 
do,  considering  our  location  and  many  other  things.     The 


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fli^B^H 

CINNAMON  BEAR. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  I29 

excitement  was  intense.  Many  shed  tears  of  vengeance, 
while  others  gave  utterance  to  horrible  oaths. 

We  could  not  stay  here  always.  It  was  time  to  move. 
Our  teams  were  looking  but  very  little  better  than  when  we 
stopped.  Our  train  numbered  only  ten  wagons,  the  others 
having  dropped  off  at  different  places.  After  deciding  to 
turn  our  faces  northward  and  to  recross  the  Bad  Lands — but 
by  another  and  a  better  route — we  got  our  effects  together 
and  moved  out.  Some  held  back,  saying  they  were  going  to 
winter  in  the  valley,  but  their  real  intentions  leaked  out 
later.  They  were  to  remain  a  few  days,  while  we  went 
ahead  and  made  roads,  which  they  would  follow  at  their 
ease — a  cunning  trick,  but  they  did  not  get  the  better  of 
us.  Ten  miles  or  more  brought  us  to  a  washout,  which  we 
could  neither  cross  nor  go  around.  The  only  thing  we  could 
do  was  to  make  a  bridge  of  driftwood  and  sagebrush. 

After  we  had  crossed,  we  burned  the  bridge  behind  us, 
to  teach  a  lesson  to  our  smart  friends  in  the  rear.  When 
they  came  to  this  place  they  were  completely  confounded. 
We  had  used  up  all  of  the  loose  material,,  which  compelled 
them  to  camp  there  two  days,  and  haul  timber  five  miles 
with  which  to  make  another  bridge.  They  gained  nothing 
by  their  selfishness.  But  it  was  slow  and  hard  work  pull- 
ing through  the  Bad  Lands,  and  we  were  very  much  pleased 
when  we  foUnd  ourselves  once  more  on  solid  ground. 

Off  to  the  south,  on  a  little  knoll,  we  saw  five  buffalo 
bulls  grazing.  Jack  Woods  and  myself  were  well  mounted 
upon  half-breed  horses,  and  we  were  soon  skirting  the  foot- 
hills in  hot  pursuit.  As  we  came  within  seventy-five  yards 
of  them  we  lodged  balls  in  two  of  them.  They  thundered 
up  the  long  stretch  of  tableland,  we  keeping  as  close  as  we 
could.  Our  ponies  would  slacken  their  pace  in  spite  of  all 
we  could  do  when  they  were  close  enough  to  scent  the  ani- 


130  ADVENTURES   OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

mals.  I  attempted  to  fire  again,  but  the  shell  stuck  fast,  for 
in  my  haste  I  had  snatched  up  an  old  needle-gun  from  one 
of  the  wagons. 

On  we  went,  plunging  over  stones  and  ruts.  With 
renewed  hope  we  saw  the  wounded  ones  lagging  behind  the 
others.  All  were  now  nearing  the  edge  of  the  precipice, 
and  we  thought  we  had  them  cornered.  Nearer  and  nearer 
they  got  to  the  edge,  turning  neither  to  the  right  nor  to  the 
left  The  foremost  one  came  to  the  jumping-off  place,  and 
with  gleaming  eyes  and  tail  erect,  made  the  fearful  leap 
fifty  feet  below. 

The  others  followed  in  the  same  manner,  and  all  alight- 
ed in  a  sort  of  swamp,  where  they  struggled  violently,  trying 
to  make  their  way  through  the  mire.  Jack  stood  upon  the 
edge  of  the  precipice  and  gave  them  a  volley  while  I  was  cut- 
ting the  shell  out  of  my  gun.  By  this  time  three  of  them 
were  out  of  the  swamp ;  we  fired  at  one  of  those  left  behind, 
and  he  stopped  to  battle,,  his  head  down  and  back  arched, 
like  a  bucking  mule. 

"Give  him  one,  Allen,  to  see  him  buck.  I  will  try  his 
hump,"  said  Jack. 

"I  think  I  will  tickle  him  a  little,"  I  said,  and  fired. 

The  buffalo  reared  and  plunged,  and  rushed  at  his 
companions,  as  though  he  held  them  responsible  for  his  con- 
dition. Jack  shot  again.  The  bull  switched  his  tail  and 
came  toward  us,  mad  with  rage.  A  shot  from  my  old  cannon 
set  him  to  waltzing  in  great  shape.  It  was  a  first-class  cir- 
cus. We  gave  him  thirteen  shots  through  the  body  before 
he  fell. 

We  amused  ourselves  in  like  manner  with  the  others 
within  range.  Two  escaped  unhurt.  Two  were  almost  bur- 
ied in  the  mire.  The  other  one  lay  dead  upon  the  ground. 
We  secured  the  tongues  of  these  three  and  went  to  camp, 
delighted  with  this  little  adventure. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  I3I 

Once  more  we  found  ourselves  on  the  Crow  reserva- 
tion,, near  the  Rosebud  River,  the  waters  of  which  are  filled 
with  mountain  trout.  The  hills  were  clothed  with  bunch 
grass,  whereon  ponies  and  cattle  were  roaming  by  thou- 
sands, or  basking  in  the  mild  Indian  summer  weather.  The 
place  was  a  picture  of  calm  content.  The  grass  swayed  to 
and  fro  in  the  soft  September  wind.  On  every  mound 
were  the  wily  warriors  of  the  tribe,  gazing  with  satisfaction 
upon  the  scene,  their  red  blankets  lending  an  additional 
charm  to  the  view  as  they  strolled  up  and  down,  singing 
war  chants,  now  and  then  stopping  to  dance  to  their  own 
music. 

Looking  upon  them  in  this  peaceful  attitude  one  could 
hardly  believe  them  to  be  so  cruelly  savage  by  nature. 

The  smoke  of  our  campfires  was  soon  curling  slowly 
upward  into  the  mountain.  The  cattle  had  satisfied  their 
hunger  and  were  lying  down  to  rest.  A  supper  of  dried  elk 
and  trout  was  soon  prepared.  It  was  then  that  the  noble 
red  men  came  over  to  smoke  the  pipe  of  peace  with  their 
pale-faced  brothers,,  to  eat  of  our  venison  and  trout,  and 
to  drink  our  coffee.  Our  hospitality  filled  their  hearts  with 
peace,  and  made  them  feel  that  it  was  well  to  be  at  peace 
with  the  '^masta  scheely"  (white  man).  We  entertained 
three  of  them  on  this  evening,  and  their  faces  fairly  glowed 
with  brotherly  love  as  they  looked  upon  the  repast  we  spread 
before  them.  Our  red  friends  distanced  us  in  the  race,  how- 
ever. We  chewed  our  meat  while  they  disposed  of  theirs 
in  a  way  known  only  to  themselves.  When  the  last  scrap 
had  disappeared,  they  gave  us  a  hearty  hand-shake  and  de- 
parted. 

At  Deer  Creek,  on  the  Yellowstone,  we  stopped  for  a 
few  days.  It  was  surely  Deer  Creek,  for  we  jumped  three 
deer  in  camp  before  our  teams  were  unhooked.     I  fired  at 


132  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

a  large  white-tail  buck  on  the  run,  and  knocked  off  one  of 
his  horns.  He  went  down,  but  he  got  up  again  and  flew  over 
the  ground.  Rifles  were  banging  all  around.  Five  deer 
rushed  out  together.  I  killed  the  leader  and  some  one  killed 
a  doe.  Our  camp  was  in  a  whirl.  The  deer  were  bewil- 
dered, running  in  every  direction.  I  followed  the  buck  that 
I  had  first  hit,  and  found  him  lying  on  a  small  island.  He 
started  to  run,  but  I  caught  him  in  the  neck  with  a  ball. 

Our  teams  having  rested,  we  started  again,  and  it  was 
not  long  before  we  pulled  into  Bozeman — the  most  ragged, 
filthy  and  destitute  lot  of  travelers  that  ever  crossed  the 
range.  None  of  us  had  enough  clothing  to  cover  his  body. 
I  had  a  little  money,  but  scarcely  enough  to  buy  a  pair  of 
overalls.  With  this  I  crept  up  a  back  alley  to  the  clothing 
store  of  Ellis  &  Davis,,  and  they  let  me  have  a  pair.  I  found 
employment  and  at  the  end  of  two  weeks  bought  a  suit  of 
clothes,  after  which  I  could  walk  the  streets  without  a  sense 
of  shame.  The  other  boys  did  likewise,  and  we  felt  quite 
proud  of  ourselves.  Here  we  parted,  with  kindly  feelings 
toward  one  another  and  went  our  separate  ways. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  1 33 


CHAPTER  XII. 


Anothbr  Hunting  Trip— Hiram  Steward— a  hunting  knife— shoot  at  a 
target— I  beat  the  Crow  champion— off  for  the  hunt— plenty  of  game— 
my  "Winchester— Steward's  torpedo— that  "pea-slinger"— at  peace  in 
camp. 

I  soon  tired  of  life  in  Boseman,  and  found  employment 
on  the  stageline  running  from  Boseman  to  Miles  City,  a  dis- 
tance of  three  hundred  and  forty  miles.  We  had  no  regular 
time  for  making  trips,  for  it  was  impossible  to  foresee  what 
might  happen  to  detain  us  upon  the  road.  At  every  sta- 
tion we  would  stop  to  get  a  fresh  team,  but  often  found  that 
the  horses  had  been  stolen,  the  man  in  charge  frightened 
away,  or,  worse  still,  that  the  station-house  was  in  ashes. 
While  making  these  trips,  up  and  down,  I  became  acquaint- 
ed with  a  great  many  people  along  the  route. 

One  of  these  was  Hiram  Steward,  who  had  been  lead- 
ing a  roving  life  in  the  mountains  in  search  of  gold  and 
large  game  for  twenty-five  years.  Steward  was  an  old 
man  then,  six  feet  and  two  inches  in  height,  well  built,  and 
as  brave  and  fearless  as  a  man  could  be.  In  one  of  his  ad- 
ventures he  had  been  shot  through  the  thigh,  which  short- 
ened his  leg  and  retarded  his  movements.  He  was  stopping 
with  Hoskins  &  McGirl,  at  Baker's  battleground,  on  the 
Fort  Custer  crossing.  This  was  the  best  stopping-place 
along  the  line,,  and  was  a  favorite  resort  for  the  hundreds 
of  hunters  and  trappers  in  the  territory,  owing  to  the  genial 
qualities  of  the  proprietors  and  the  plentiful  supply  of  well- 


134  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

cooked  food  always  on  hand.  Hunting  and  trapping  were 
lucrative  employments.  Meat,  skins  and  furs  found  ready 
sale,  and  outfits  were  made  up  daily  for  a  sojourn  in  different 
parts,  in  quest  of  game. 

It  was  here  I  met  Hiram  Steward  the  second  time,  after 
I  quit  the  stageline.  I  found  the  old  man  making  up  his 
packs,  getting  ready  to  start  the  next  day.  I  was  seized  with 
the  desire  to  accompany  him,  but,  not  wishing  to  push  my 
company  upon  so  famous  a  hunter,  I  managed  by  strategy 
to  get  an  invitation.  A  hunter  prizes  a  good,  strong  knife, 
so  I  went  to  work  and  made  him  one,  with  a  blade  eight 
inches  long,  and  a  long  buckhorn  handle,  finely  polished. 
The  old  fellow  was  delighted  with  it,  and  offered  to  go  in 
partners  with  me  on  the  hunt.  It  was  a  good  offer,  as  he 
was  furnishing  meat  for  Hoskins  &  McGirl.  I  helped  him,, 
and  the  packs  were  all  ready  by  noon. 

After  dinner,  we  gave  our  guns  a  good  cleaning,  and 
then  went  into  the  yard  to  shoot  at  a  target.  Steward  never 
indulged  in  this  sport,  but  liked  to  watch  others.  I  was  very 
lucky  and  beat  the  champion  shot  of  the  Crow  tribe,  which 
pleased  the  old  man.  He  had  looked  at  my  Winchester 
with  contempt,  calling  it  an  old  popgun.  His  weapon  was 
an  old  Sharp's  rifle,  of  the  first  issue.  For  my  trip  I  bor- 
rowed a  buckskin  buffalo  pony,  which  had  a  great  reputa- 
tion as  a  runner.  The  evening  was  spent  by  most  of  the 
company  in  shuffling  pasteboards,  while  I  cornered  a  Crow 
and  had  him  give  me  a  lesson  in  his  language. 

Morning  dawned.  The  sun  rose  bright  and  warm  as 
on  a  summer  day.  We  were  soon  upon  the  road,  with  four 
pack-mules,  which  we  proposed  to  bring  back  laden  with 
meat.  We  traveled  down  the  river  until  we  struck  Razor 
Creek,  which  we  followed  into  the  Bull  mountains.  The 
antelopes  seemed  anxious  to  inspect  our  caravan  and  make 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  I35 

our  acquaintance,  following  us  and  stamping  their  feet  all 
the  while,  as  though  they  regarded  us  as  intruders  in  their 
country,  and  were  bent  on  having  a  settlement;  but  we 
were  after  buffaloes  and  did  not  heed  them. 

A  march  of  two  days  brought  us  to  the  head  of  Razor 
Creek,  where  the  Sioux  had  camped,  to  steal  all  the  ponies 
they  could  find  and  appropriate  the  game,  which  was  scarce 
in  the  vicinity.  We  made  our  camp  in  a  secluded  spot, 
among  thick  pines  that  kindly  hid  us  from  view.  Early  the 
next  morning,  after  a  hard  tug,  we  reached  the  top  of  the 
range  between  the  Yellowstone  and  Musselshell,  and,  with 
perspiration  oozing  from  every  pore,,  we  gazed  upon  the 
country  for  miles  around.  Finally  our  eyes  fell  upon  five 
large  buffalo  bulls,  not  far  off.  Sneaking  up  a  snag  in  the 
hill,  we  came  within  three  hundred  yards  of  them  and  opened 
fire,  when  they  made  off  like  the  wind  and  soon  disappeared, 
leaving  a  cloud  of  dust  behind.  We  hunted  until  we  were 
too  tired  to  hunt  longer,  and  started  empty-handed  for 
camp. 

Presently  a  large  black-tail  deer  crossed  a  little  bank, 
about  fifty  yards  ahead  of  us.  We  started  after  him  with  all 
the  speed  we  could  make.  When  I  reached  the  bank,  I 
saw  the  buck  and  four  others  that  he  had  just  met,  about 
to  climb  a  hill.  I  fired  and  the  shot  made  the  hills  resound. 
The  buck  turned  with  a  bound  and  fell  dead.  An  old  doe 
turned  to  see  what  could  be  the  matter,  stopped,  raised  her 
head  and  stuck  up  her  large  ears,  her  black  eyes  shining 
like  two  great  beads.  The  instant  she  paused,  my  Winches- 
ter spoke  to  her,  and,  as  the  smoke  cleared  away,.  I  saw  her 
lying  on  the  ground,  her  neck  broken  just  below  the  ear. 

Steward  stood  like  one  petrified,  making  no  motion  to 
shoot.  The  other  three  went  on  climbing  the  hill.  With 
rapid  shots  I  brought  two  of  them  down,  and,  as  the  fifth 


136  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

neared  the  top,  I  shot  him  and  he  fell,  but  picked  himself 
up  again.  I  fired  the  second  shot,  knocking  him  down,  but 
again  he  started  to  his  feet.  The  third  shot  missed  him. 
Five  deer  v^ith  seven  shots,  four  killed  and  the  fifth  wounded. 
The  firing  was  so  rapid  that  one  report  had  not  died  away 
before  another  followed,  waking  the  echoes  from  hill  after 
hill. 

''Wal,  that  beats  me!"  said  Steward;  I  thought  you 
was  a  'pilgrim'  with  a  gun." 

''  A  'pilgrim'  compared  with  yourself,"  I  replied,  "but 
I  have  used  a  gun  before." 

"Wal,  then,  why  don't  you  get  a  Sharps?"  said  he. 

"Simply  because  I  prefer  the  Winchester." 

"Have  you  ever  been  on  the  buffalo  range?"  he  quer- 
ied. 

"No." 

"Wal,  I  thought  so ;  when  you  tackle  them  ar  bar,,  you 
will  larn  more." 

"You  are  right,"  I  said ;  "but  how  do  you  like  the  Win- 
chester for  deer  and  small  game?" 

"Oh!  it  will  do  for  boys  to  kill  birds  with,  sure;  but 
she  don't  carry  enough  lead  for  bulls  and  bars.  If  you'll 
just  take  a  turn  over  the  hill  after  that  other  chap,  I'll  get 
these  ready  to  pack." 

I  started  after  the  wounded  buck  and  was  crossing  the 
hill  when  he  broke  cover  from  behind  a  log.  As  he  was 
crossing  the  next  hollow  I  gave  him  a  ball  in  the  shoulder 
and  another  in  the  back.  He  made  a  hard  struggle  for  life 
but  the  lead  was  too  much  for  him.  His  shoulders  were 
terribly  mangled,  not  worth  saving,  but  the  hams  were 
good.  On  returning  to  Steward,  who  had  finished  his  work, 
I  found  him  admiring  the  knife  I  gave  him.  He  had 
cut  off  the  deer's  legs  to  try  its  mettle,  and  found  the  tem- 
per sufficient  to  stand  the  test. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  137 

It  took  US  about  an  hour  to  go  to  camp  and  get  our 
pack  mules,  and,  after  we  had  secured  the  first  four  deer, 
we  went  for  the  fifth  one  and  were  surprised  to  find  the 
shoulders  torn  to  pieces  and  that  the  hams  had  disappeared. 
From  all  indication  we  concluded  that  a  bear  had  paid  him 
a  visit.  Tying  the  mules,  we  followed  the  trail  up  the  can- 
yon until  it  went  under  a  large  rock.  The  water  had  washed 
over  this  rock,  making  quite  an  excavation  beneath.  The 
bear  evidently  had  found  it  a  good  hiding-p^ace  and  had 
made  it  larger.  Into  this  place  she  had  taken  herself  with 
the  hams  of  our  deer. 

Steward  got  a  long  pole  and  prepared  for  business. 
"When  I  punch  her  out,  you  take  my  gun  and  shoot  her," 
he  said. 

"Thank  you ;  if  you  are  going  to  punch  her  out,  I  will 
take  a  seat  on  the  top  of  this  rock  and  try  my  Winchester  on 
her,"  I  said. 

He  made  a  thrust  into  the  hole  with  the  pole.  The  bear 
caught  it  and  broke  it  into  pieces.  This  made  Steward 
very  angry.    He  raved  like  a  madman. 

"I'll — I'll  blow  her  out  with  a  torpedo!"  he  yelled. 

I  wondered  where  the  torpedo  was  to  come  from,  and 
soon  learned.  He  took  a  short  piece  of  rope,  pulled  the 
twist  out  of  it,  filled  it  with  gunpowder,  and  then  twisted 
it  up  again.  He  then  took  a  large  handful  of  powder,  put  it 
into  a  small  buckskin  sack,  and  dropped  the  rope  fuse  in 
with  it,  leaving  about  ten  inches  hanging  outside.  He  then 
wrapped  the  sack  with  twine  until  it  was  as  hard  as  a  can- 
non ball,  tied  it  to  the  end  of  a  pole,  and  set  a  match  to  the 
fuse. 

"Now,  look  sharp,"  he  exclaimed,  "it'll  make  the  old 
varmint  vacate  them  premises  and  no  mistake." 

Forthwith  he  thrust  the  pole  in  as  before.     The  bear 


138  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

grabbed  it  with  a  snarl  and  broke  it  off,  carrying  the  tor- 
pedo with  her.  A  growl  from  her,  an  oath  from  Steward, 
commenced  the  circus.  The  torpedo  burst,  making  the 
earth  tremble.  The  bear  and  a  thick  volume  of  smoke  si- 
multaneously shot  out  of  the  earth,  and  Steward,  who  had  not 
had  time  to  get  out  of  the  way,  was  knocked  down  by  the 
bear  and  rolled  down  hill  with  her.  The  bear,  her  hair 
scorched  almost  off,  took  no  notice  of  Steward,  but  kept 
on,  going  up  the  opposite  bank,  and  I  thought  I  would  never 
be  able  to  shoot  for  laughter.  Steward  went  one  way,,  and  his 
hat  another.  There  he  lay,  looking  as  though  he  might  have 
fallen  from  the  clouds.  I  pulled  myself  together  with  an 
effort  and  sent  a  ball  after  the  bear.  She  gave  a  roar,  caught 
at  her  ham  with  her  mouth,  and  came  trembling  and  growl- 
ing down  the  hill.  I  called  to  Steward  that  she  was  coming. 
It  was  a  sight  to  see  him  recover  himself  and  get  out  of  the 
way.  Bare-headed  and  with  no  gun,  he  came  hopping  up 
the  bank.  It  was  more  than  my  gravity  could  resist.  He 
grabbed  my  gun  and  rushed  down  to  within  thirty  feet  of 
her,  and  continued  firing  until  the  shells  were  all  gone  and 
her  head  was  in  pieces.  Not  satisfied  with  this,  he  took  out 
his  knife  and  disemboweled  her  on  the  spot. 

"Now,"  he  yelled  triumphantly,  "take  the  shoulders 
next  time  and  leave  the  hams,  if  you  don't  want  to  git  into 
trouble." 

He  was  blind  with  rage,  and  swore  he  did  not  know 
whether  the  bear  had  ran  against  him,  or  whether  the  pow- 
der had  blown  him  down  hill. 

"I  believe  I  blew  her  clean  out  of  the  earth.  I  never 
saw  her  come  out,"  he  said. 

"But  what  took  you  down  hill  so  fast?"  I  asked. 

"I  give  it  up.  She  must  have  run  agin  me,"  was  the 
old  man's  reply. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  I39 

We  left  the  bear  where  she  was.  She  was  poor,  and 
her  hide  was  burned  through  in  places.  When  we  had  al- 
most reached  camp  we  saw  something  upon  a  rock. 

*'A  sheep,  by  gracious!"  said  Stewart,  and  he  bounced 
on  ahead.  He  raised  his  gun,  stuck  out  his  foot,  took  a  long 
aim  and  fired.  His  nerves  must  have  been  in  a  bad  condition 
after  his  fright,  for  there  was  no  movement  upon  the  rock. 
He  fired  again,  with  the  same  result.  I  reinforced  him 
and  we  fired  together.  Down  came  a  large  buck,  shot 
clear  through  the  chest.    The  ball  was  found  in  his  backbone. 

"Cuss  that  pea-slinger  of  yours!"  said  Steward,  as  we 
we  were  packing  our  game  upon  the  mules. 

*'You  will  fall  in  love  with  that  pea-slinger  before  we 
get  through,  mind  what  I  tell  you." 

"Oh !  ho !  They  are  good  for  boys  to  larn  with,"  grum- 
bled the  old  man. 

As  we  reached  camp  almost  exhausted,  the  sun  was  hid- 
ing below  the  western  mountains.  Its  departing  rays  fell 
upon  the  green  hills  dotted  with  pines,  making  a  beautiful 
picture.  Meadow  larks  were  singing  their  evening  songs, 
red  squirrels  were  frisking  and  chattering  in  the  pine-trees, 
a  bald  eagle  soared  with  steady  wing  high  over  our  camp, 
surveying  both  earth  and  sky.  We  gathered  pine-knots  and 
soon  had  a  blazing  fire,  which  sent  clouds  of  smoke  far 
above  the  pine-trees.  Our  supper  was  soon  prepared  and 
eaten,  and,  when  the  things  were  cleared  away.  Steward  sat 
down,  with  a  huge  pipe  between  his  teeth,  sending  forth 
clouds  of  smoke  now  and  then,  which  almost  darkened  our 
camp.  He  was  now  perfectly  happy,  and  could  talk  and 
laugh  about  unearthing  the  bear  without  a  volley  of  oaths. 

The  next  morning  we  made  an  early  start  for  home,  as 
Hoskins  had  requested  us  to  be  back  as  soon  as  possible,  for 
he  was  almost  out  of  meat.     On  the  way  we  saw  a  deer 


I40  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

standing  not  far  off,  looking  at  us  as  we  moved  slowly  along. 
Steward  dismounted  and  fired  three  shots  at  him,  but  the 
deer  never  moved.  I  began  to  think  he  was  dead  in  his 
tracks,  but  a  shot  from  my  rifle  brought  him  down  with 
a  bound,  and  we  hastily  lashed  him  to  our  pack  animals.  He 
was  a  mule-deer  (  cervus  macrotis)  and  these  are  very  stu- 
pid. We  reached  the  ranch  at  four  o'clock  one  afternoon, 
and  promised  ourselves  that  we  would  bring  in  buffaloes 
next  time. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  I4I 


CHAPTER  XIII 


OUB  Adventures  on  Pbyor  Creek— Off  again  with  Steward— camp  in  the 
midst  of  elk,  deer  and  antelope— kill  five,  large  fat  elks— I  kill  a  mountain 
lion— luck  in  hunting  elk— three  Indians  visit  us— camp  robbed  by  them 
—Steward  angry— Chief  Crazy  Head— "medicine"  and  customs  of  the 
Crows — origin  of  the  Crow  name — we  hunt  geese. 

Before  a  week  had  passed,  Steward  and  I  were  on  our 
way  up  Pryor  Creek,  to  bring  in  another  supply  of  meat. 
This  was  one  of  the  best  hunting  districts  in  the  West.  The 
country  was  full  of  deer,  elk  and  antelopes.  We  made  our 
camp  about  ten  miles  up  the  stream,  on  a  small  tributary 
coming  in  from  the  West.  There  was  a  spring  close  by,  and 
we  had  no  fear  of  dying  from  thirst.  Our  camp  was  at  the 
foot  of  a  large  cottonwood,  with  wide  spreading  branches 
reaching  over  all,  making  a  very  comfortable  roof.  The 
larks,  like  ourselves,  were  deeply  attached  to  this  tree,  and 
made  music  in  its  branches  all  day  long. 

We  turned  the  pack  animals  out  to  graze,  and  were 
making  a  fire,  preparatory  to  cooking  supper,  when  our  at- 
tention was  called  to  a  band  of  elks  quietly  grazing  up  the 
stream,  all  unconscious  of  our  presence.  To  the  north,  on 
top  of  a  little  hill,  we  saw  a  band  of  deer.  The  fawns  were 
running  about,  playing  together  as  frisky  as  lambs,  the  old 
ones  alternately  grazing  and  looking  around  them. 

On  an  elevated  spot  below  us,  in  a  valley„  was  a  large 
band  of  antelopes,  that  were  considerably  disturbed  by  our 
presence.     Some  of  them  were  stamping  their  feet    in    a 


142  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

threatening  manner,  as  though  they  fancied  they  could  scare 
us  from  our  bower.  What  a  glorious  opportunity  for  a 
hunter!  The  game  was  almost  at  our  door  and  in  large 
numbers.  We  felt  like  picking  up  our  rifles  and  tackling 
them  at  once.  But  supper  was  to  be  cooked,  and  various 
other  things  done  preparatory  to  the  morrow's  slaughter. 

Next  morning,  before  the  sun  was  visible  above  the 
mountains,  we  were  ready  to  grapple  with  any  kind  of  game. 
The  morning  was  very  bright,  but  not  brighter  than  our 
hopes  for  the  day.  The  first  game  we  espied  was  a  band  of 
thirty-two  elks,  lying  in  a  cove  between  Steward  and  me. 
He  had  come  out  on  a  ridge  and  I  had  taken  a  route  below 
him.  I  sneaked  up  to  the  mouth  of  the  cove,  as  their  faces 
were  turned  that  way,  and  if  startled  they  would  be  likely 
to  run  in  my  direction.  When  within  seventy-five  yards  of 
them,  I  lay  down  behind  a  rock,  and  was  just  taking  aim 
at  a  large  cow  that  had  risen,  when  the  crack  of  a  rifle 
startled  me,  and  the  cow  fell  to  the  ground. 

.  By  this  time  the  others  were  upon  their  feet  and  mak- 
ing toward  me  in  great  fright.  The  foremost  one  was  a 
calf,  about  one  year  old,  and  I  killed  it  at  the  first  shot.  The 
next  was  a  large  bull.  I  threw  in  another  shell  and  drew 
a  bead  for  his  heart.  Though  he  was  badly  hit,  he  did  not 
stop.  I  shot  at  a  two-year-old  cow,  missed  her,  fired  again, 
and  brought  her  down.  The  band  was  now  too  far  off 
for  another  shot.  The  wounded  bull  ran  about  half  a  mile 
and  dropped. 

Steward  had  forestalled  me  on  the  first  cow,  and  killed 
another  while  they  were  running,  which  gave  us  five  large 
fat  elks,  not  a  bad  day's  work.  We  packed  them  to  camp, 
and  next  morning,  after  a  hearty  breakfast,  made  ready  for 
the  home  trip,  our  mules  having  as  much  as  they  could  carry. 
Steward  took  the  meat  home,  promising  to  come  back  the 
next  day,  while  I  stayed  to  care  for  the  camp. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  I45 

When  I  awakened  next  morning  I  could  hardly  shake 
off  the  feeling  of  loneliness  which  came  over  me.  After 
breakfast  I  walked  over  to  the  dividing  ridge,  to  view  the 
country  and  scare  up  some  game.  I  had  walked  about  three 
miles  when  suddenly  I  came  upon  a  band  of  antelopes,  lying 
at  the  foot  of  a  precipice.  Not  wanting  any  antelope  meat, 
I  lay  down  and  watched  them.  They  were  feeding  slowly 
toward  me,  enjoying  the  rank  grass  thoroughly.  All  at 
once  they  scattered  like  a  bevy  of  quails,  and,  looking  up,  I 
saw  a  mountain  lion  leap  off  a  shelf  rock,  far  above  them, 
his  long  tail  straight  and  rigid  as  steel,  and  his  body  ex- 
tended to  its  full  length.  He  came  like  a  bullet  from  a  rifle, 
and  alighted  upon  the  back  of  a  large  antelope  with  such 
force  as  to  almost  crush  it  into  the  earth.  The  shock  killed 
it  almost  instantly.  The  lion  seized  it  fiercely  by  the  throat, 
tore  the  flesh  from  the  bones  for  about  fifteen  inches  dowrs 
ward,  and  sucked  its  blood.  Then  he  walked  around  the 
body  in  a  meditative  manner,  and  began  tearing  the  flesh 
from  over  the  heart.  Having  made  a  meal,  which  took  about 
one-third  of  his  prize,  he  seized  the  remainder  in  his  mouth 
and  came  in  my  direction. 

About  fifty  yards  away  he  stopped,  laid  down  his  bur- 
den, raised  his  large,  ugly  head  and  looked  toward  me  for 
fully  two  minutes.  Not  desiring  to  share  the  sad  fate  of 
the  antelope,  I  kept  perfectly  still,  waiting  to  see  what  the 
lion  would  do  next.  His  lordship  took  another  look  at  his 
prize,  to  see  that  all  was  right,  looked  furtively  around  and 
walked  off.  My  curiosity  was  satisfied,  but  not  my  sense 
of  justice.  I  wanted  to  see  the  savage  beast  laid  as  low  as 
his  victim.  I  carefully  raised  myself  to  a  sitting  posture, 
got  my  rifle  ready,,  and  bleated  like  a  young  fawn.  He 
turned  immediately,  his  whole  attitude  bespeaking  suprise 
that  any  animal  could  have  escaped  his  careful  scrutiny. 


146  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

I  aimed  for  his  hind  legs,  high  up  in  the  hips,  and  fired. 
The  ball  went  straight  and  broke  his  legs,  he  gave  a  pitiful 
howl  and  tried  to  get  up  the  hill,  but  found  it  was  impos- 
sible. He  then  turned  on  me  savagely,  and  would  have  an- 
nihilated me  in  no  time  could  his  broken  legs  have  supported 
his  heavy  body.  He  cried  like  a  good  fellow,  begging  for 
the  mercy  that  he  had  never  shown  to  man  or  beast,  but,  aft- 
er what  I  had  just  witnessed,  I  was  not  inclined  to  be  mer- 
ciful, and  gave  him  a  ball  in  the  head  which  quieted  him 
forever. 

After  walking  another  mile  I  found  myself  close  to  a 
band  of  elks  feeding  in  a  canyon.  They  were  moving  very 
slowly  and  seemed  a  lazy  set.  The  bulls  had  shed  their  pon- 
derous horns  and  there  was  nothing  striking  about  their  ap- 
pearance. I  was  tired,  and  did  not  care  to  open  upon  them 
at  once,  so  I  lay  down  under  a  tree  and  watched  them.  Fin- 
ally they  came  to  a  standstill  upon  a  grassy  hillside.  It  was 
too  good  a  chance  to  be  lost,  and  I  roused  myself  sufficiently 
to  cover  a  large  bull  with  my  rifle.  The  report  startled  the 
animals,  but  they  could  not  determine  from  whence  the  shot 
came  and  knew  not  which  way  to  run.  This  is  a  character- 
istic of  elks  and  black-tail  deer. 

They  almost  always  get  bewildered  when  attacked,  and 
often  stand  crossing  their  necks,  turning  and  crowding  to- 
gether, until  the  hunter  has  time  to  kill  all  of  them.  When 
the  smoke  curled  upward,  I  saw  my  elk  dragging  his  hind 
legs  upon  the  ground,  but  still  he  had  the  use  of  his  fore-feet 
as  I  had  hit  him  too  high  up  to  entirely  disable  him,  al- 
though the  ball  had  broken  his  spine.  I  paid  no  further  heed 
to  him  just  then,  but  continued  shooting  at  the  others  until 
I  had  killed  seven.  I  might  have  shot  more  very  easily, 
but  knew  we  could  not  care  for  a  greater  number  at  one 
time. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  1 47 

I  now  turned  to  the  wounded  bull.  It  had  stumbled 
over  a  log  and  fallen  into  a  little  ravine,  containing  about 
three  feet  of  snow.  I  walked  up  and  took  him  by  the  new 
horns  that  were  beginning  to  show.  They  were  about  four 
inches  long  and  were  still  soft,  and,  as  he  made  very  little 
resistance,  I  stood  in  front  of  him  on  a  small  log  and  thrust 
my  knife  into  his  throat.  While  he  was  struggling  to  get 
out  of  my  reach,  the  log  I  was  standing  upon  rolled  over  and 
I  fell  beside  him,  almost  under  his  feet.  My  feelings  at  that 
moment  were  not  agreeable,  for  the  blood  spurted  into  my 
face  and  all  over  me,  and  he  tried  to  stamp  me  with  his 
forefeet.  Had  not  his  back  been  broken,  no  doubt  he 
would  have  beaten  me  to  death. 

I  cleaned  and  carved  my  elks,  hung  them  upon  trees, 
and  went  to  camp  hungry  as  a  wolf,  covered  with  blood. 
Steward  was  not  there,  as  he  had  promised.  The  next  day 
came  and  went,  but  he  did  not  appear.  I  had  a  large  load  of 
the  choicest  cuts  and  did  not  dare  to  kill  any  more  game, 
but,  with  only  my  gun  for  company,  I  wandered  over  the 
hills,  watching  the  deer  and  elks  feeding  or  basking  in  the 
sunshine.  I  was  so  lonely  that  my  own  shadow  was  a  wel- 
come sight. 

On  the  fourth  day  after  Steward's  departure,  I  was 
favored  with  a  visit  from  three  Indians.  I  met  them  at  a 
place  where  I  had  killed  a  young  elk  calf.  They  examined 
the  calf,  said  it  was  very  nice,  and  one  of  them  asked  if  he 
might  take  it  to  his  squaw,  so  I  gave  it  to  him.  Immedi- 
ately he  squatted  down,  and  broke  its  bones  just  below  the 
knees  with  his  meat  axe,  then  forced  the  marrow  out  of 
them  with  a  stick  and  swallowed  it  greedily,  now  and  then 
taking  time  to  grunt  "itsic"  (good.)  Before  leavings  they 
asked  me  where  I  was  camping,  and,  without  thinking  of 
the  probable  consequences,  I  told  them. 


148  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

Steward  came  back  about  noon  of  the  fifth  day,  and, 
while  we  were  out  packing  our  meat,  these  same  rascals 
went  to  our  camp  and  stole  everything  we  had,  excepting 
the  tent.  Upon  our  return  to  camp,  we  went  for  some  bis- 
cuits and  potatoes  that  had  been  left  from  breakfast.  The 
red  man's  moccasins  led  the  way,  but  no  potatoes  nor  bis- 
cuits were  there.  With  their  little  hatchets  they  had  cut 
down  five  elk  hams  that  were  hanging  to  the  limbs  of  our 
Cottonwood.  Perhaps  they  thought  they  were  only  taking 
their  own,  as  we  had  killed  plenty  of  game  upon  their  res- 
ervation. 

Steward  looked  around  until  he  had  taken  in  the  ex- 
tent of  our  losses.  He  then  threw  down  his  hat  as  though 
he  were  challenging  some  one  to  mortal  combat,  plucked  at 
the  few  hairs  upon  his  head,  and  swore  by  the  red  arms  of 
the  war-chief,  that  he  would  have  revenge  before  anything 
else  was  done. 

Night  was  approaching,  and  I  felt  that  it  would  be 
both  foolish  and  dangerous  for  us  to  tackle  the  reds  at  such 
an  hour,  so  I  tried  to  mollify  the  old  man. 

"Better  wait  until  morning,"  I  said,  "then  we  will  fol- 
low them  up  and  have  satisfaction  out  of  them." 

He  went  on  like  an  unreasonable  child,,  until  his  pas- 
sion cooled  down  somewhat,  when  we  made  a  supper  of  elk 
meat  and  rested  comfortably  upon  our  horse  blankets. 

When  we  reached  the  ranch  the  same  day,  we  found 
that  Crazy  Head,  a  great  chief  among  the  Crows,  and  his 
band  were  stopping  near.  I  spent  the  greater  part  of  the 
next  day  lounging  around  the  Indian  camp,  observing  their 
actions,  and  gleaning  some  ideas  as  to  their  inner  life  from 
their  talk.  They  were  preparing  for  a  long  journey,  there- 
fore all  the  sick  must  be  cured  before  the  start.  They  went 
through  the  entire  course  of  their  medicine-making,  and  the 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  149 

sweat  lodge  was  full  of  patients  most  of  the  time.  I  saw 
five  braves  strip  and  enter  the  lodge,  which  was  made  of 
willow  switches,  stuck  in  the  ground  far  enough  apart  to 
form  a  small  room,  the  tips  of  the  switches  being  brought 
over  at  the  top  and  tied. 

During  the  curing  process  the  tent  was  entirely  covered 
with  skins  and  blankets.  A  hole  in  the  center  of  the  room 
held  a  number  of  small  stones  that  were  heated  red  hot,  and 
around  these  the  naked  patients  ranged  themselves ;  then 
an  old  squaw  named  Two  Belly,  after  making  various  kinds 
of  gestures  toward  the  sun,  poured  a  pailful  of  water  upon 
the  stones.  The  room  being  very  close,  the  steam  arose  in 
such  great  volumes  as  to  shake  the  slight  structure. 

The  squaw  then  commenced  warbling  the  medicine-song 
song,  the  patients  joining  with  a  low,  guttural  "Hay  a  hay, 
hay  a,"  that  was  kept  up  as  long  as  they  could  endure  the 
steam.  At  a  signal  given  from  the  outside,  the  squaw  threw 
open  the  door,  when  the  patients  rushed  out  and  leaped  into 
the  river,  where  they  splashed  and  kicked  until  tired  out, 
when  they  came  to  camp,  wrapped  themselves  in  blankets, 
and  lay  down  to  sleep. 

The  squaw  insisted  upon  my  going  in  with  the  Indians ; 
"Heap  good !"  she  said ;  but  I  told  her  that  although  it  might 
be  good  for  an  Indian,  it  was  not  for  a  white  man,  and  that 
I  would  rather  peep  in  from  the  outside.  They  had  great 
faith  in  the  sweating  process,  with  much  reverence  for  the 
medicine-lodge  and  the  medicine-man. 

I  had  a  long  talk  with  Crazy  Head,  and  he  told  me 
about  some  of  their  customs  and  beliefs.  When  they  are 
going  to  fight  an  enemy,  a  warrior,  mounted  upon  the  finest 
war-horse  belonging  to  the  tribe — horse  and  rider  bedecked 
with  skins,  beads  and  feathers,  and  painted  in  war-colors — is 
sent  through  the  village,  to  call  the  braves  together.    They 


150  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

assemble  at  the  council-lodge  and  decide  upon  the  course  to 
be  pursued,  while  the  medicine-men  in  the  medicine-lodge 
are  conciliating  the  Great  Spirit  in  the  following  manner. 
Gathering  all  their  most  sacred  articles,  such  as  herbs  and 
owls'  feathers,  they  throw  them  upon  a  fire  in  the  middle 
of  the  lodge.  The  chief  medicine-man  sits  by,  calmly  smok- 
ing his  pipe,  and,  raising  it  aloft  at  intervals,  he  importunes 
the  Great  Spirit  to  smoke  with  him.  The  burning  process  is 
continued  until  all  the  material  is  consumed,  when  the  pipe 
is  laid  aside  and  all  walk  round  and  round,  the  medicine-men 
chanting  a  war-song,  which  is  a  prayer  to  the  Great  Spirit 
that  his  spirit  may  go  with  them  in  the  battle,  and  turn  away 
from  their  enemies. 

I  have  often  noticed  that  Indians  are  afraid  of  the  dark, 
and  that  they  seldom  travel  after  nightfall.  I  asked  Crazy 
Head  the  reason  for  this,  and  he  said  that  they  believe  bad 
spirits  are  abroad  in  the  night,,  and  that  the  spirits  of  wicked 
Indians,  long  since  dead,  prowl  around  at  night  in  the  forms 
of  beasts  of  prey.  The  breaking  of  a  twig,  the  least  noise  at 
night,  they  attribute  to  evil  spirits,  and  quake  with  fear  at 
hearing  them.  They  have  a  great  dread  of  snakes,  and  can- 
not be  induced  to  touch  or  kill  one,  as  that  act  would  poison 
their  medicine,  and  they  would  never  more  have  any  luck 
when  hunting. 

When  their  health  is  good,  and  they  are  well  supplied 
with  game,  their  hearts  are  good,  and  the  heart  of  the  Great 
Spirit  is  good  to  them.  When  in  this  happy  mood,  they 
often  climb  to  the  top  of  a  mountain  or  a  high  hill  and  leave 
their  best  blanket  hanging  upon  a  tree,  as  a  gift  to  the  Great 
Spirit.  After  a  time  they  come  again,  and  if  it  is  gone,  some 
other  Indian  or  a  white  man  having  taken  it,  they  think 
their  gift  has  been  accepted,  and  are  very  happy. 

The  feathers  of  the  owl  have  a  particular  value,  be- 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  I5I 

cause  they  think  these  feathers  strengthen  their  medicine, 
and  make  them  Hke  the  owl — a  bird  which  can  see  in  the 
dark,  and  moves  noiselessly,  seeking  its  food  after  the  other 
birds  have  folded  their  wings  for  the  night.  Otter  skins, 
they  think,  impart  to  them  the  shrewdness  of  the  otter. 
They  are  quick  to  notice  the  peculiarities  of  animals,,  and 
value  them  accordingly.  When  hunting,  they  scarcely  ever 
kill  a  bear,  a  wolf  or  a  lion,  for  these  animals  are  bad  medi- 
cine, and  bring  poor  luck. 

The  name  Absarokee  (Crow),  originated  from  the 
sparrow  hawk.  The  Crows  speak  a  dialect  of  their  own  and 
also  have  a  method  of  making  known  their  ideas  by  signs 
and  gestures.  The  latter  they  use  altogether  when  low- 
spirited  or  when  traveling.  The  Crows,  Sioux,  Piegans, 
the  Bloods  and  Gros  Ventres,  are  properly  Blackfeet 
Indians.  Little  quarrels  have  separated  them,  until  they 
themselves  scarcely  know  to  what  tribe  their  forefathers 
belonged,  and  historians  are  getting  them  badly  confounded. 
These  Crows  stayed  with  us  two  days,  and  then  started  for 
the  buffalo  range  on  the  dry  fork  of  the  Missouri  River,  to 
obtain  their  yearly  supply  of  meat  and  robes. 

Geese  were  valuable  for  their  feathers  in  those  days. 
Steward  and  I  made  a  bargain  with  Mrs.  Hoskins,,  to  kill 
one  hundred  geese  for  her,  at  one  dollar  each.  We  thought 
we  had  the  best  of  the  bargain,  as  we  felt  sure  we  could  kill 
that  number  in  two  days,  or  less,  so  we  went  down  the  river, 
and  camped  the  first  night  near  the  water's  edge,  just  above 
Pompey's  pillar. 

We  were  upon  the  road  before  it  was  fairly  light  the 
next  morning,  to  take  advantage  of  the  early  hours,  when 
geese  are  flying  about  in  greater  numbers  than  at  any  other 
time  of  the  day.  We  reached  the  mouth  of  Fly  Creek  in 
good  time,  stopped  there  two  whole  days,  industriously  hunt- 


152  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

ing  for  geese,,  and  killed  but  two,  which  we  ate.  The  geese 
were  unusually  wild  and  saw  us  from  afar.  We  were  upon 
an  island,  and  if  we  killed  others,  they  were  generally  over 
the  water  and  we  could  not  get  them. 

"I'm  a  sucker  if  I  ever  hunt  geese  agin,"  said  Steward. 
"It  will  do  for  boys  in  the  States,  but  I'm  going  to  the 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  1 53 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


Vabious  Intebbsting  Matters— First  kill  bear— in  a  herd  of  buffalos— ad- 
ventixres  with  buffalo  and  mountain  lion— something  about  Hiram 
Steward. 

Upon  one  occasion  when  Steward  and  I  had  a  contract 
to  supply  meat  to  Hoskins  and  McGirl^  at  Baker's  battle- 
ground, our  camp  was  situated  on  the  headwaters  of  Razor 
Creek.  For  three  days  we  had  wandered  around,  through 
the  foothills,  looking  for  bears.  The  signs  were  plentiful, 
but  we  succeeded  in  getting  only  one  bear,  which  Steward 
insisted  upon  calling  a  mongrel,  and  surely  it  was  not  of 
pure  blood.  We  were  returning  to  camp  late  in  the  evening, 
when  we  heard  stones  rattling  down  a  bluff,  and,  pausing 
to  listen,  we  saw  a  bear  about  two  years  old,  of  a  yellowish 
brown  color,  climbing  along  the  hillside. 

In  an  instant,  bang,  bang,  went  our  rifles  and  down  he 
came  with  a  roar.  As  he  tumbled  over,.  I  gave  him  two  more 
shots  and  he  delivered  up  the  ghost.  We  skinned  him  and 
Steward  added  the  skin  to  his  bedding.  We  arrived  in 
camp,  worn  out  with  our  day's  tramp,  and  Steward  fleshed 
his  bear  robe  while  I  got  supper.  After  a  hearty  meal  we 
discussed  the  advisability  of  moving  camp.  We  had  been 
burning  pitch-pine  knots  and  my  hair  was  so  stiff  it  would 
scarcely  bend,  so  I  set  about  washing  out  the  pitch.  First 
I  used  bear's  grease  to  cut  the  gum,  then  soap,  with  which 
I  scrubbed  and  washed  for  half  an  hour,  and  quit  in  disgust. 


154  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

leaving  it  looking  as  though  the  calves  had  been  sucking  it, 
and  in  fact  much  v^orse  than  at  first. 

"Wall,  Allen,  you  look  purty  now,"  laughingly  said 
Steward,  and  he  exclaimed:  ''Wall,  I  kalkerlate  we  will 
look  higher  in  the  mornin',  as  the  bar  is  a  high  bird  this  time 
a  year." 

''All  right,"  said  I,  "in  the  morning  I  will  be  ready  to 
ascend." 

Our  camp  was  a  little  paradise.  The  green  pines  were 
dense  as  could  be,  and  a  beautiful  cold  spring  of  water  was 
close  at  hand.  The  bunch  grass  was  like  a  carpet.  Nature 
had  left  nothing  to  be  desired.  Early  the  next  morning, 
after  a  hearty  breakfast,.  I  shouldered  my  rifle  and  started 
up  the  mountain  looking  for  my  pony.  After  a  long  and 
tedious  walk,  I  found  his  trail,  and  followed  it  over  rocks, 
bad  lands,  logs  and  washouts.  When  I  sat  down  to  take  a 
look  from  the  top  of  the  mountain,  I  saw  the  pony,  grazing 
quietly,  about  half  a  mile  away,  and  near  him  was  an  im- 
mense herd  of  buffaloes. 

To  get  my  horse  and  not  scare  the  herd  was  the  next 
procedure,  so  I  went  down  the  mountain  until  the  buffaloes 
could  not  see  me,  then  cut  around  the  horse  and  found  low 
ground,  through  which  I  crept,  and  finally  made  my  way 
to  him.  When  I  had  secured  the  horse,  I  found  I  had  for- 
gotten to  bring  a  bridle  or  picket-rope,  so  I  took  a  small 
strap,  which  I  was  using  for  suspenders,  and  buckled  it  on 
his  lower  jaw.     I  then  proceeded  to  flank  the  buffaloes. 

After  a  careful  examination,  I  found  the  wind  was 
opposite  to  the  way  I  wished,,  for  I  had  thought  of  running 
the  herd  toward  camp,  but  I  kept  up  my  sneak  until  I  was 
within  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards,  when  I  could  see  all 
sizes  of  the  animals,  calves,  cows  and  bulls.  I  carefully 
filled  my  magazine,  then  was  at  a  loss  whether  to  kill  one, 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  1 55 

mount  the  pony  and  give  chase,  or  to  mount  and  run  them 
first. 

My  horse  was  a  strange  one  to  me  as  I  had  recently 
bought  him.  I  recalled  some  of  the  great  and  splendid 
qualities  which  had  been  ascribed  to  him,  but  I  did  not  be- 
lieve much  in  them,  so  I  decided  to  chase  the  buffaloes  in  the 
start  as  I  knew  I  could  shoot  from  his  back.  I  placed  the 
remaining  cartridges  in  the  front  of  my  belt,  readjusted  my 
knife,  mounted  and  started  slowly  toward  the  herd.  I  had 
gone  about  half  the  distance  before  they  seemed  to  notice 
me,  then  an  old  bull  gave  a  snort,  threw  up  his  tail,  and 
started  off  like  the  wind. 

The  country  was  a  high  tableland  about  five  miles  wide 
between  Razor  Creek  and  the  Musselshell  River.  The 
stampede  of  the  immense  herd  made  the  ground  shake.  The 
earth  was  black  before  me,  and  the  erected  tails  looked  like 
the  guns  of  an  army.  My  horse  gave  one  snort  and  darted 
toward  the  herd  like  an  eagle  on  the  wing.  He  came  along- 
side an  old  bull  almost  instantly.  In  my  excitement  I 
dropped  my  strap  and  gave  the  bull  a  shot  through  the  lungs, 
then  another  and  again  a  third,  when  he  gave  a  lunge  and 
fell  among  his  comrades,,  to  be  trampled  into  pieces. 

The  dust  was  flying  like  a  cloud,  and  the  sound  of  the 
galloping  hoofs  almost  deafened  me,  but  I  caught  sight  of  a 
fine,  black  cow,  gave  her  a  shot  which  broke  her  back,  and 
down  she  went  among  the  flying  drove.  I  singled  out  a 
fine,  two-year-old  cow,  drove  two  balls  through  her  and  she 
disappeared.  I  shot  two  calves  and  a  four-year-old  cow, 
and  then  found  my  cartridges  were  gone  from  the  magazine. 
I  soon  filled  it  again,,  but  only  with  hard  work  and  by  losing 
as  many  as  I  put  in  the  gun.  I  was  now  completely  sur- 
rounded by  the  herd  and  the  dust  was  suffocating.  My 
horse  showed  signs  of  giving  out,  so  I  took  my  gun  in  one 


156  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

hand  and  began  to  slap  him  on  the  side  of  the  head,  shooting 
everything  that  came  near  on  the  other  side. 

We  crossed  the  head  of  a  canyon,  and  such  a  crashing 
of  old,  dead  pine  and  rattling  over  stones  I  have  never  heard 
since.  My  horse  lost  his  footing  once  and  fell.  I  thought  I 
should  be  trampled  to  death,  but  the  pony  did  not  go  clear 
down,  and  with  one  bound  he  went  up  the  bank  with  the 
herd,  in  safety.  I  scarcely  knew  how  or  which  way  to  turn 
to  get  out  of  the  mass  of  flying  brutes,  but  I  did  know  that 
my  situation  was  getting  dangerous,  so  I  turned  to  what  I 
supposed  to  be  the  west. 

My  horse  seemed  to  understand  what  I  wanted,  and 
soon  got  to  an  opening  in  the  ranks,  and  was  once  more  on 
open  ground.  I  dismounted  and  watched  the  herd  go  by. 
Thousands  of  buffaloes  passed  and  the  roar  sounded  like 
thunder.  I  went  to  camp,  covered  with  dust  and  perspira- 
tion, and  Steward  and  I  returned  to  the  field  of  slaughter  to 
find  eighteen  buffaloes,  killed  and  wounded. 

"Wall,"  said  Steward,  "that  will  do;  we  will  make  a 
winter  camp  here.     This  looks  like  livin'." 

We  skinned  the  choicest  robes  and  took  the  meat  to 
camp,  which  occupied  us  for  three  days.  On  the  third 
morning,  when  we  were  coming  in,  I  saw  a  large  mountain 
lion,  lying  on  a  ledge  of  rocks,  near  where  we  had  been 
passing.  The  old  man  straightened  up  in  his  saddle,  pushed 
back  his  old  white  hat  and  said: 

"Wall,  you  have  had  enough  shooting  lately.  I  will 
wait  on  his  majesty." 

He  slid  down  from  his  jackass,  pulled  his  old  Sharp's 
from  the  sling  and  inserted  a  .44-75.  He  walked  a  few  steps 
from  the  craggy  ledge,  raised  his  rifle  as  though  he  were 
going  to  shoot  at  a  target,  his  right  foot  forward  and  his 
game  leg  under  him.     I  thought  he  would  never  fire,  but 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  1 57 

his  arm  was  steady  and  the  old  reliable  belched  forth  its 
compliments  to  the  lion.  A  cloud  of  dust  arose,  just  where 
the  lion  lay.  He  sprang  to  the  ground,  thirty  feet  below, 
and,  giving  a  howl,  started  toward  us  with  a  foreleg  broken. 
In  an  instant  we  both  fired,  but  he  came  on  faster,  passing 
us  to  the  right,  when  I  gave  him  a  broadsider  which  pros- 
trated him.  But  he  jumped  up  and  bounded  off  again. 
Steward  then  gave  him  another  ball  which  broke  his  back, 
and  he  dragged  his  hinder  parts  slowly  down  the  hill,  but 
soon  died,  as  he  had  received  several  fatal  shots.  We  left 
him  lying  there  and  went  to  camp,  hung  up  our  meat,  skins 
and  tongues,  and  then  our  camp  was  complete. 

Hiram  Steward  told  me  much  of  his  career  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  I  will  record  one  incident  which  showed  his 
fiery  spirit.  In  the  year  1878,  late  in  the  fall,  many  trappers 
and  hunters  had  come,,  as  usual,  to  the  store  of  Hoskins 
and  McGirl,  for  that  firm  was  always  ready  to  outfit  a  man, 
and  to  lend  a  helping  hand  to  anyone  who  was  deserving. 
Steward  sat  at  one  end  of  a  card  table  and  a  man  of  Southern 
blood,  named  Jackson,  at  the  other. 

Gambling  had  taken  a  lull,  and  Steward  took  up  a  deck, 
and  shuffled  off  the  cards,  saying  'There's  the  red,  there's 
the  white  and  there's  the  blue."  Jackson  took  this  as  an  in- 
sult, sprang  to  his  feet,  saying  he  would  not  be  insulted  by 
any  Yankee,  drew  his  six-shooter,  and  called  upon  Steward 
to  defend  himself.  Steward  pulled  open  his  old  buckskin 
coat,  set  his  slouched  hat  back  on  his  head  and  his  large, 
gray  eyes  flashed.  Every  one  thought  Jackson  had  run  a 
successful  bluff,  when  Steward  stood  up,  and,  without  saying 
a  word,  walked  behind  the  counter,,  grasped  his  old  Sharp's 
and  threw  in  a  cartridge,  saying: 

"Jackson,  I  have  not  long  to  live  and  I  know  it.  I  am 
no  shot  with  a  six,  but  just  come  on  and  we  will  go  over  the 
river.    I  will  shoot  it  out  with  you  now.    Come  on." 


158  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

All  hands  started  to  accompany  them,  and  the  crowd 
had  gotten  about  half  way  down,  when  Jackson  turned  and 
went  back  to  the  store  on  the  run.  He  never  tried  the  bluff 
again,  and  was  a  laughing  stock  for  all  who  had  witnessed 
the  affair. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  159 


CHAPTER  XV. 


What  Little  Horn  and  I  Experienced.— Chumming  with  an  Indian  chief— 
off  for  gold— adventure  with  a  cinnamon  bear — "Otter  heap  good  medi 
cine"— reminiscences  of  Little  Horn — we  journey  on — another  mountain, 
lion — fight  with  a  bear — a  frightened  Indian. 

On  a  bright  September  morning  in  the  year  1878,  Little 
Horn,  the  scout,  came  to  my  camp,  and,  after  partaking  of 
refreshment,  invited  me  to  smoke  his  peace  pipe,  and  in- 
formed me  that  his  heart  was  good.  He  then  told  me  that 
he  knew  where  the  white  man's  money  grew,  for  he  had 
seen  it  in  a  mountain.  He  pointed  to  a  gold  ring  which  I 
wore  upon  my  finger  and  said :    "All  the  same  as  that." 

Little  Horn  was  a  Bannock  chief,  thoroughly  acquainted 
with  all  the  surrounding  country,  as  he  had  been  roaming 
through  the  Rocky  and  the  Big  Horn  mountains  for  ten 
years.  I  had  hunted  with  him  on  several  occasions,  and, 
knowing  him  to  be  a  truthful  Indian,  thought  there  might 
be  something  in  his  report.  I  was  very  busy  drying  deer 
hams,  but  told  him  I  would  go  with  him  to  this  mountain  in 
two  sleeps  if  he  wished.  He  was  very  much  pleased  and 
said  we  should  go. 

*^Get  heap  money,  buy  heap  ponies,  have  heap  squaws."" 
This  was  his  idea  of  the  pleasures  which  money  can  pro- 
cure. He  mounted  his  pony  and  galloped  down  the  river,, 
his  blankets  and  long  black  hair  flying  in  the  air.  Two  days 
later  he  again  made  his  appearance  with  two  ponies,  and  a 
little  bundle  containing  dried  venison,  and  I  was  soon  ready 
to  accompany  him. 


l60  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

After  fording  the  Yellowstone  we  crossed  the  lo^ 
ridges  along  Pryor  Creek,  passing  many  herds  of  deer,  ant( 
lopes,  elks,  and  small  game  of  all  kinds.  About  four  o'cloc 
in  the  afternoon  we  carne  to  a  clear,  cool  spring,  where  w 
dismounted,  spread  down  our  blankets,  and  prepared 
lunch.  While  thus  engaged  we  heard  a  noise,  and,,  lookin 
up,  saw  a  large  cinnamon  bear  coming  down  a  little  hill  nea 
by.  Little  Horn  appeared  to  be  greatly  excited.  He  carrie 
a  Henry  rifle,  but  he  looked  at  it  disdainfully,  saying 
"Heap  no  good  neputsa,  heap  big  gun,  heap  little." 

I  asked  Little  Horn  to  hold  the  horses,  which  allaye 
his  fears,  and  I  crept  up  the  ravine  until  I  was  just  belo^ 
the  bear.     He  was  pulling  down  and  eating  the  ripe  frui 
and  this  he  continued  to  do  until  he  was  within  fifty  feet  c 
me.     When  I  thought  he  was  as  close  as  I  wished  him, 
gave  a  shrill  whistle,  and,  as  he  raised  himself  up  to  look, 
drew  a  fine  bead  for  the  butt  of  his  ear  and  pulled.    He  gav 
a  leap,  rolled  over,  jumped  upon  his  feet,  and  kept  runnin 
round  and   round  like   a   puppy   after   its   tail,   but  finall 
paused,  and  I  gave  him  one  square  in  the  head  which  put  a 
end  to  further  demonstrations.     Little  Horn  came,  took 
good  look  at  him  and  talking  rapidly  the  while,  said : 

"White  man  heap  good  gun,  heap  big.     Indian's  gu 
heap  too  little." 

The  bear  must  have  been  engaged  in  a  fight  not  ver 
long  since,  for  his  skin  was  torn  in  half-a-dozen  place< 
rendering  it  unfit  for  a  robe;  so  we  left  him  without  de 
priving  him  of  his  ragged  coat,  finished  our  lunch  and  pre 
ceeded  on  our  journey.  When  near  the  creek  we  saw  a  larg 
otter  (lutra  canadensis)  dive  down  the  bank  and  take  t 
the  water.  We  leaped  from  our  horses  and  gave  chast 
When  he  rose  to  the  surface  the  Indian  and  I  both  fired,  bn 
overshot  him.     Down  he  went  again  and  soon  we  saw  hir 


DEADLOCK  OF  WHITE  TAIL  BUCKS. 
Found  in  Judith  Mountains. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  J63 

swimming  down  the  steam.  The  water  at  this  point  was 
about  three  feet  deep  but,  as  the  animal  went  down  the 
stream  the  water  became  shallow.  When  the  otter  got  into 
water  about  twelve  inches  deep  I  shot  at  and  wounded  him 
slightly,  which  soon  brought  him  to  the  surface  and  I 
finished  the  job. 

Little  Horn  plunged  in,  brought  out  the  otter,  and, 
holding  the  little  fellow  high  over  his  head,  went  through 
all  the  dances  with  which  he  was  acquainted,  saying: 
"Heap  good  medicine ;  Sioux  no  kill  me  now."  I  learned 
that  he  considered  the  otter  the  very  best  medicine  known. 
The  skins  are  worn  on  the  Indians'  hair,  wound  round  their 
arms,  fastened  to  their  blankets,  tied  on  their  guns  or  saddles 
and  on  their  ponies'  tails.  The  chief  was  greatly  delighted 
with  the  prize,  which  I  had  no  desire  to  share  with  him. 

The  hour  being  late  we  camped  under  a  large  cotton- 
wood,  and  our  ponies  enjoyed  the  rich  grass  which  com- 
pletely covered  the  ground.  While  getting  supper  I  saw  a 
fawn  come  out  of  some  willows,  about  one  hundred  yards 
below  us.  I  caught  up  my  rifle  and  was  raising  it  into  posi- 
tion when  a  large  buck  came  out,  then  came  a  doe  followed 
by  another  fawn.  They  were  all  sleek  and  in  good  order, 
and  were  examining  our  camp.  The  Indian  was  under  the 
Cottonwood,  too  busy  with  his  otter  to  notice  what  was 
going  on.  We  had  not  killed  much  game,  as  we  were  pre- 
pared to  carry  very  little,  but  I  felt  I  should  like  a  piece  of 
the  fawn,  so  I  aimed  at  its  shoulders  and  fired.  The  other 
deer  jumped  and  so  did  the  Indian,  but  the  fawn  wilted  from 
the  effects  of  cold  lead,  for  the  bullet  broke  both  shoulders, 
and  we  soon  had  its  liver  broiling  over  the  coals,  and  found 
the  meat  very  palatable. 

Supper  over,  I  helped  to  skin  the  otter,  and  found  it  the 
toughest  job  I  had  ever  undertaken,,  as  every  atom  of  the 


164  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

skin  had  to  be  cut  from  the  flesh  and  only  the  very  best 
knife  would  hold  an  edge.  Little  Horn  stretched  the  skin 
around  his  head,  allowing  a  large  portion  of  it  to  form  a 
graceful  fold  behind,  and  gave  another  exhibition  of  his  war- 
dances.  He  related  many  incidents  connected  with  his  boy- 
hood, spoke  of  the  first  Sioux  ponies  he  had  stolen,  how  he 
was  followed  by  the  owners  and  had  killed  one  of  their  num- 
ber, and  how,  when  he  reached  his  own  tribe,  they  made  a 
hero  of  him,  dancing  around  the  scalp  and  chanting  his 
praises. 

The  young  squaws  all  loved  him  after  that,  but  he  liked 
none  so  well  as  Pretty  Nose,  so  he  courted  and  married  her. 
He  dwelt  with  pleasure  on  the  fact  that  a  brave  chief  can 
have  as  many  squaws  as  he  can  take  care  of,  and  I  joined 
him  in  chanting  their  old  "Ha,  O,  ha,  ha,  O."  until  he  grew 
inexpressibly  happy.  We  had  no  bedding  except  our  saddle 
blankets,  which  were  light,  and  as  the  night  was  cold„  we 
were  glad  when  morning  dawned,  that  we  might  rise  and 
stretch  our  chilled  limbs  before  a  blazing  fire. 

As  we  rode  up  the  creek  after  breakfast  the  mountains 
seemed  very  near,  but  neverthless  we  were  a  long  time  in 
reaching  them.  At  noon  we  stopped  for  refreshments  and 
caught  a  fine  mess  of  trout,  which,  with  venison,  constituted 
our  bill  of  fare.  We  turned  the  horses'  heads  to  the  south- 
west and  traveled  through  the  main  range.  Upward  we 
went  through  green,  grassy  parks,  then  down  through  the 
timber,  walking  for  miles  and  leading  our  ponies. 

As  the  twilight  was  gathering  we  reached  a  beautiful 
green  spot,  containing  about  twenty  acres,  all  alive  with 
elks.  I  think  there  must  have  been  a  thousand.  I  shot  a 
fine  calf  and  the  others  went  crashing  through  the  timber, 
crushing  before  them  everything  that  would  yield  to  their 
strength.     Lying  on  our  blankets  beside  a  good  fire,  our 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  165 

ponies  enjoying  the  bunch  grass,  we  heard  the  murmuring 
of  a  Httle  rivulet  close  by,  mingled  with  the  cry  of  coyotes, 
but  the  roar  of  a  mountain  lion,  not  far  off,  caused  the  ponies 
to  huddle  together  like  quail.  The  moon  was  full,  the  night 
calm,  and  the  stars  shone  out  like  so  many  diamonds,  glitter- 
ing, dancing,  and  shooting  in  all  directions. 

The  Indian,  aroused  from  a  peaceful  slumber  by  the 
roaring  of  the  lion,  said :  "Too  close  to  echetacasha  (river), 
we  had  better  move."  I  told  him  it  would  be  cowardly  to 
run,  and  we  could  easily  kill  the  lion  if  he  came  too  close, 
but  he  replied,  "Bad  spirits  travel  at  night  and  good  spirits 
in  the  day." 

More  than  an  hour  passed,  when  again  the  roaring  was 
repeated,  this  time  nearer  and  clearer  than  before.  Little 
Horn,  now  thoroughly  aroused,  insisted  upon  moving,  say- 
ing the  lion  would  spring  from  the  bushes  to  where  we  lay 
and  devour  us  before  we  could  make  any  defense.  I  said 
it  would  be  his  last  spring  if  he  attempted  such  a  thing,  and 
persuaded  the  Indian  to  lie  down,  by  telling  him  that  I  had 
killed  many  lions  and  was  not  afraid  of  them.  We  were 
lying  down  with  our  clothes  on,  in  order  to  be  ready  in  case 
anything  should  happen;  all  was  quiet  once  more  and  half 
an  hour  had  passed  when  we  heard  the  lion,  softly  creeping 
through  the  bushes  like  a  cat. 

Finally  two  fiery  eyes  looked  through  the  foliage  upon 
us,  and  slowly  and  cautiously  he  approached  the  carcass  of 
the  elk  calf,  weighing  fully  three  hundred  pounds  and  intact, 
except  one  leg  which  we  had  cut  off.  We  expected  he 
would  go  to  tearing  and  eating  the  meat,  but,  to  our  amaze- 
ment, he  took  the  calf  about  the  middle,  raised  it  off  the 
ground,  and  started  off  up  the  hill.  The  audacity  of  the 
act  and  the  great  strength  displayed  by  the  brute  almost 
paralyzed  me,  but  I  resolved  not  to  be  robbed  in  that  manner, 


l66  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

right  before  my  eyes,  without  offering  any  resistance,  so, 
after  seeing  that  Little  Horn  had  his  gun  ready,  I  fired  upon 
the  robber.  He  let  go  of  the  calf  and  fell,  but  came  toward 
us  as  fast  as  his  broken  hips  would  allow.  Each  of  us  gave 
him  a  shot,  which  struck  him  square  in  the  chest,  killing  him 
almost  instantly.  He  measured  more  than  ten  feet  in 
length. 

This  danger  being  past  we  slept  sweetly  until  morning, 
when  I  awoke  to  find  myself  alone.  Filled  with  surprise  I 
looked  around  for  my  companion,  and  saw  a  large  grizzly 
bear  covering  the  body  of  our  rescued  elk  with  leaves.  I 
drew  my  rifle  from  under  the  blanket,  when  I  was  startled 
by  a  voice  saying,  ''No  shoot,  he  heap  kill  us  both,"  and  just 
below  me,  in  a  bush  about  ten  feet  high,  I  saw  Little  Horn, 
trying  to  screen  himself  from  view. 

I  realized  that  we  had  very  different  game  from  elks  or 
deer  to  deal  with  this  time,  and  that  our  lives  would  probably 
pay  the  penalty,  should  the  first  shot  not  prove  fatal.  Be- 
sides the  bear  was  on  the  up-hill  side  of  us.  This  gave  him  a 
great  advantage.  I  had  once  nearly  lost  my  life  in  a  similar 
position  when  attacking  a  grizzly  and  thought  it  might  be 
advisable  to  let  him  alone  and  say  nothing  about  the  calf. 
Then  the  thought  struck  me  that  I  had  never  yet  weakened 
when  called  upon  to  rid  the  world  of  one  of  these  brutes, 
and  got  behind  a  small  pine  tree,  within  thirty  yards  of  him. 

As  I  watched  the  powerful  beast  tearing  up  the  earth 
as  a  covering  for  the  calf,  I  thought  of  climbing  the  tree 
before  shooting,  but  the  idea  seemed  so  ridiculous  that  it 
was  soon  abandoned.  I  gave  the  customary  whistle,  and, 
when  all  was  ready,  took  sight  intending  to  sever  his  jugular 
vein,  if  possible.  The  sight  blurred  before  I  got  ready  to 
pull,  he  changed  his  position  and  the  ball  broke  his  lower 
jaw  only,  passing  on  through  his  nose.     He  made  a  bound 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  I67 

toward  me  and  I  sprang  up  the  tree  without  loss  of  time. 
What  a  howl  he  uttered  as  he  came  toward  the  tree,  passed 
on  over  our  bed  and  almost  through  the  fire.  He  struck  the 
bush  which  sheltered  Little  Horn  and  almost  shook  him 
from  his  perch. 

Like  an  infuriated  bull  he  went  flying  down  the  moun- 
tains, evidently  as  blind  as  a  bat,  and  when  he  reached  the 
precipice,  he  stumbled  over  into  the  water  below.  I  found 
the  Indian  still  in  his  bush,  looking  like  a  superannuated 
ghost,  so  great  was  his  superstitious  dread  of  bears.  I 
coaxed  him  down,  and,  his  fears  having  subsided,  he  said: 
"Bear  crazy,  heap  no  good."  After  breakfast  we  walked 
over  to  the  precipice  to  view  the  remains  of  the  grizzly,  and 
he  lay  there  in  the  gorge  below,  stone  dead. 

Wending  our  way  through  forests  of  pine,  over  hills 
and  rocks,  I  became  exhausted  and  was  heartily  regretting 
this  fruitless  journey,  when  my  companion  called  my  atten- 
tion to  a  high  mountain  which  overlooks  the  Big  Horn 
canyon,  and  said  that  was  the  mountain  where  the  money 
grew.  I  had  visited  the  place  before  and  was  sure  nothing 
was  to  be  found  there  except  some  base  metal  in  the  quartz. 
It  seemed  that  we  would  never  reach  the  top  of  the  moun- 
tain, but  when  we  did,  it  looked  as  though  all  the  game  in 
the  Northwest  had  congregated  to  celebrate  our  coming. 

We  rounded  a  narrow  ledge  which  overhung  the  river, 
so  high  above  it  that  the  roar  of  the  rapids  could  not  be 
heard,  and  the  river,  thousands  of  feet  below,  looked  like  a 
silver  thread.  About  fifty  yards  in  front  of  us  stood  a  moun- 
tain ram  with  the  largest  pair  of  horns  I  had  ever  seen,  and 
it  was  for  these  that  I  shot  him  through  the  heart.  In  his 
death  struggles,  however,  he  managed  to  kick  himself  off 
the  shelf  and  fell  into  the  abyss  below,  robbing  me  of  the 
prize  I  so  much  coveted. 


1 68  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

We  found  some  fine  specimens  of  silver  and  copper,  but 
the  gold  turned  out  to  be  a  delusion,  so  we  turned  our  heads 
homeward,  wiser,  if  not  richer  men.  Little  Horn  was  sadly 
disappointed  as  his  ponies  and  squaws  must  be  relinquished, 
at  least  for  the  present.  When  we  arrived  at  the  home,  he 
took  his  otter  skin,  bade  me  ''How,"  and  I  have  never  seen 
him  since. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  169 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


Hunting  Expeditions  Near  the  Big  Hobn  Mountains— A  charming  pic- 
ture—all kinds  of  game—a  bear  in  a  cave — Steward  in  trouble— a  close 
call— ft  dead  bear— "How  did  I  git  away  from  him?"— around  the  camp, 
fire— "Captain  Jinks"— deer,  elk  and  otter— the  Devil's  Slide— a  swimming 
race  with  a  grizzly— on  the  way  home. 

Starting  up  Fly  Creek,  we  rode  fast  all  day  through 
the  warm  sun,  and  about  noon  of  the  next  day,  we  were  near 
the  Big  Horn  mountains.  What  a  scene  lay  before  us.  The 
verdant  hills  were  covered  with  hundreds  of  buffaloes.  The 
sunshine  lent  luster  to  their  black  glossy  coats.  The  calves 
were  at  play,  running  here  and  there  over  the  grassy  slopes. 
This  was  not  the  only  picture  we  looked  upon  that  day. 
Small  herds  of  antelopes  dotted  the  hills  both  on  the  right  and 
left,  their  white  sides  glimmering  in  the  distance.  The  val- 
leys were  occupied  by  elks  and  antelopes,  while,  far  away 
near  the  foothills,  strolled  a  large  band  of  elks,  that  had  just 
descended  from  the  heights  above,  to  enjoy  the  grass  and 
warmth  of  the  valley.  Nothing  could  have  been  added  to 
improve  the  picture.  Men  never  designed  anything  half  so 
lovely.  Many  a  hunter  of  to-day  would  give  much  to  see 
the  like.  All  was  silent,  save  that  now  and  then  the  clear 
notes  of  the  lark  broke  the  stillness.  We  let  the  animals 
graze,  while  we  sat  upon  a  knoll  to  feast  our  eyes.  I  was 
trembling  from  head  to  foot  with  contending  emotions.  I 
wanted  to  try  my  skill  with  a  rifle,  yet  did  not  wish  to  mar 
the  peaceful  scene. 


170  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

^'What's  the  matter  with  you?"  Steward  asked.  "Did 
you  never  see  a  buffalo  before,  or  are  you  skeered." 

"I  am  charmed  with  the  buffaloes,  elks,  antelopes,  hills, 
valleys,,  and  mountains." 

''Whar  is  the  elk?"  he  asked  in  surprise,  straining  his 
failing  eyes  to  see  them. 

''Look  among  the  foothills  to  the  north  and  you  will  see 
plenty  of  them,"  I  said. 

*'Oh,  yes,  I  see  them  now.  Wal,  I  guess  we  will  be 
able  to  load  our  packs  soon." 

"We  must  first  find  wood  and  water,  then  we  will  take 
a  promenade  over  that  way.  Let's  be  off  at  once.  I  am 
eager  for  the  chase." 

Steward  needed  no  further  urging.  We  took  our 
course  toward  a  quaking-asp  thicket,  about  two  miles  to  the 
northwest.  We  there  found  plenty  of  wood  and  water.  The 
pack-saddles,  blankets,  and  cooking  utensils  were  torn  from 
the  backs  of  our  weary  animals,  but  they  kept  looking  into 
the  thicket,  snorting  and  acting  very  strangely. 

"I'll  bet  thar's  Injuns  in  thar,"  said  Steward,  with  a 
wise  shake  of  his  head.  "Old  John  always  tells  me  when 
thar's  Injuns  nigh." 

"I'll  take  a  turn  through  the  thicket  and  see  what's  up, 
while  you  picket  the  horses,"   I  said. 

I  took  my  gun  and  went  around  the  thicket,  looking 
closely,  but  could  find  no  trail  of  any  kind.  I  came  back 
and  reported  to  Steward,,  but  he  shook  his  head  dubiously. 

"John  don't  lie,"  he  said  decidedly.  "Go  into  the  hollar 
and  look.  Thar's  a  screw  loose  somewhar.  Keep  your  hand 
on  your  head  if  you  value  your  scalp." 

I  took  an  old  game  trail  and  soon  saw  the  tracks  of  a 
very  large  bear.  My  senses  were  alert  at  once ;  I  filled  my 
gun  with  cartridges  and -crept  forward  more  carefully.     A 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  I7I 

large  hole  torn  through  the  fallen  pea  and  hop  vines  arrested 
my  attention.  I  raised  the  hammer  of  my  gun  and  started 
to  crawl  in  upon  my  hands  and  knees.  I  followed  the  open- 
ing about  thirty  yards,  and  was  within  ten  yards  of  the  op- 
posite bank,  when  his  bearship  gave  a  growl  that  made  me 
think  I  had  business  outside ;  I  did  not  fly  exactly,  but  bade 
him  a  hasty  adieu,  crawling  out  much  faster  than  I  entered. 
When  I  got  out  to  where  the  air  was  not  so  oppressive,  I 
took  shelter  behind  a  tree.  I  attempted  to  coax  the  brute  out 
by  throwing  stones,  but  failed.  Every  means  was  tried  in 
vain.  He  still  refused  to  leave  his  vantage-ground.  The 
vines  were  so  dense  that  I  could  not  see  to  get  a  shot  at  him 
and,  if  I  ventured  in  again,  he  might  take  me  unawares  and 
make  a  meal  of  me.  In  my  dilemna  I  called  to  Steward  that 
I  had  run  a  monstrous  rat  to  earth,  and  needed  assistance. 
He  lost  no  time  in  coming  arid  appeared  upon  the  opposite 
side,  with  his  old  Sharp's  across  his  shoulder  and  his  knife 
swinging  from  his  belt. 

"It's  a  bar  instead  of  Injuns?"  he  called  to  me  in  a 
questioning  tone. 

"Yes,"  I  replied,  "and  you  are  not  far  from  him;  just 
around  that  little  bank,  under  those  vines,  is  his  castle." 

"How  do  you  know?"  he  asked. 

"I  was  fool  enough  to  crawl  in  until  he  gave  me  to 
understand  my  company  was  not  agreeable." 

"Wal,  I'll  soon  find  him  out.  He  can't  run  no  bluff  on 
me;  if  I  had  an  explosive  ball,  I'd  jist  walk  down  thar  and 
blow  him  inside  out." 

"Try  the  torpedo  racket  on  him,"  I  said. 

"I  have  a  torpedo  in  old  'reliable'  that  I'll  try  on  him," 
said  Steward. 

The  bear  acted  as  though  he  both  heard  and  understood 
our  talk,  for  at  that  moment  he  scattered  the  vines  and  ut- 

5 


1/2  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

tered  savage  growls  which  made  me  turn  cold.  Before 
Steward  could  fire,  the  bear  was  close  upon  him,  but  a  ball 
from  the  rifle  struck  the  brute  in  the  heart  while  he  was 
crossing  a  log  which  gave  way,  throwing  Bruin  over  back- 
ward. Steward  put  in  another  cartridge  and  snapped  it, 
but  it  did  not  explode.  By  this  time  the  bear  had  regained 
his  feet,  and,  maddened  with  rage,  was  rushing  at  Steward, 
who  had  extracted  the  shell  of  the  bad  cartridge,  but  not  the 
ball,  which  stuck  fast  in  the  grooves  of  his  rifle.  It  was 
a  terrible  position  for  a  defenseless  man,  having  the  bear  al- 
most upon  him,  while,  from  my  position  on  the  other  side, 
I  could  see  only  the  top  of  Steward's  head,  for  he  was  close 
to  the  vines  and  I  could  not  know  how  the  battle  was  going, 
although  the  sounds  told  me  much.  I  knew  my  presence  was 
required,  but  was  undecided  whether  to  force  my  way 
through  the  undergrowth,  or  run  around.  Either  course 
would  have  consumed  valuable  time.  Steward  intimated 
what  was  best  for  me  to  do,  by  dropping  his  gun  and  start- 
ing up  hill,  as  fast  as  his  lame  leg  would  allow  him.  I  de- 
cided to  remain  perched  upon  the  rock  where  I  was,  with 
the  hope  that  I  might  get  a  shot  at  the  bear.  Steward  rushed 
up  hill,  the  bear  close  behind,  in  plain  sight  now.  Steward's 
buckskin  coat,  which  was  covered  with  blood,  hair,  grease, 
and  all  kinds  of  filth,  stood  out  straight  behind  him.  I  could 
not  get  a  shot  for  fear  of  hitting  him,  and  began  to  think 
he  was  doomed  to  be  devoured  alive. 

I  called  out  at  the  top  of  my  voice,  "Run  for  the  rock  up 
hill.    Hurry,  he  is  almost  on  your  back." 

Steward  reboubled  his  sped  and  went  as  I  directed  him, 
the  bear  gaining  upon  him  so  fast  that  I  felt  sure  it  would 
catch  him  before  he  could  find  safely  upon  the  rock.  My 
time  for  action  was  come.  I  sent  a  ball  through  the  tops  of 
the  bushes,  which  took  effect  in  the  shoulder  of  the  bear. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  1 75 

He  Stopped  for  Jt  moment,  roaring  with  pain  and  twisting  his 
head  to  get  at  the  wound;  but  started  again  in  pursuit  of 
poor  Steward.  I  fired  a  second  time,  just  as  the  brute  was 
getting  ready  to  strip  the  buckskin  coat  from  Steward's  back, 
but  did  not  stop  the  animal.  A  thrill  of  horror  ran  through 
me  at  the  thought  of  what  must  speedly  occur  if  something 
was  not  dbne  to  stay  the  bear.  I  nerved  myself,  with  great 
effort,  and  fired  at  its  head,  just  as  Steward  made  a  leap  to 
grasp  the  edge  of  the  rock.  He  caught  it,  but  the  frail  brink 
broke  and  let  him  down.  Luckily  for  him,  however,  my  last 
shot  had  struck  the  bear  in  the  neck  and  had  broken  the 
spinal  cord  and  they  fell  together  at  the  same  moment. 

I  could  hardly  find  courage  to  look.  The  bear  in  its 
deathstruggle  did  not  forget  Steward,  but  caught  the  old 
man  by  the  waistband  of  his  elk-skin  pantaloons,  and  threw 
him  twenty  feet  down  the  hill.  The  fearful  cry  that  escaped 
the  lips  of  Steward  as  he  was  tossed  through  the  air  un- 
nerved me.  I  tore  through  the  brush,  across  the  hollow  and 
up  the  hill.  Steward  lay  motionless,  to  all  appearances  life- 
less. I  feared  the  bear  was  not  quite  dead,  and  gav^e  it 
another  ball  to  make  sure.  The  report  caused  Steward  to 
stir  feebly.  I  examined  him  carefully  and  found  no  marks 
of  violence  upon  him,  but  his  eyes  were  encircled  by  a  yellow 
band,  often  seen  in  the  face  of  the  dead.  I  filled  my  hat  with 
water  and  bathed  his  face,  which  revived  him  slowly,  and 
looking  wildly  around,  his  eyes  fell  upon  the  dead  bear. 

*'How  did  I  git  away  from  him?"  he  asked  in  a  low, 
feeble  voice,  a  gleam  of  intelligence  lighting  up  his  face. 

"He  threw  you  down  hill  because  he  did  not  like  your 
company  any  better  than  mine,"  I  replied. 

I  raised  him  to  a  sitting  posture.  He  remained  in  a 
profound  silence  for  a  time,  evidently  going  through  the 
late  adventure  in  his  mind.  Finally  he  said  with  a  great 
solemnity  of  manner : 


176  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

"Great  God!  Twenty-five  years  in  the  mountains,,  and 
that's  the  closest  call  I  ever  had  yit." 

"You  are  not  dead  yet,"  I  said,  "and  you  are  good  for 
twenty-five  years  more." 

Steward  never  got  over  the  terrible  shock  and  fright  of 
this  affair.  It  preyed  upon  his  mind  continually,  his  hither- 
to robust  constitution  failed  soon  after.  He  died  alone,  in 
his  cabin  on  Pryor  Creek,  and  his  body  was  found  by  a  hun- 
ter two  or  three  days  thereafter.  Little  was  known  of  his 
previous  history,  but  he  told  me  once,  that  he  had  been  mar- 
ried in  the  East  and  that  family  troubles  had  driven  him  to 
the  mountains  to  seek  peace  of  mind.  It  is  needless  to  say 
that  the  adventure  with  the  bear  terminated  our  hunt,  so  I 
skinned  the  animal  and  got  one  hundred  and  seventy-six 
pounds  of  oil  out  of  the  carcass.  It  was  the  largest  bear  I 
ever  saw.  The  hide  was  fully  nine  feet  square,  just  as  it  was 
stripped  from  the  body. 

I  met  John  Len,  an  old  hunter  and  trapper,  at  Benson's 
Landing,  where  we  made  up  a  party  of  five  and  started  up 
Mission  Creek  to  hunt  white-tailed  deer.  Our  first  camp  was 
at  the  old  Indian  agency,  which  consisted  of  a  church,  sev- 
eral framed  houses  and  a  few  adobe  buildings.  The  place 
would  have  been  entirely  deserted,  but  for  the  presence  of 
one  half-breed  and  his  deaf  and  dumb  squaw.  The  next 
morning  we  drove  to  the  canyon,  where  we  established  our 
headquarters.  The  little  stream  was  full  of  trout,  and  we 
congratulated  ourselves  that  if  other  game  failed  us,  the 
trout  would  do.  After  dinner  we  wandered  off  in  different 
directions,  wherever  our  individual  fancies  led  us,  in  search 
of  game.  I  traveled  through  ravines  and  over  mountain 
sides,  until  I  was  tired,  and  then  sat  upon  a  log  to  rest. 

The  body  tires  from  walking  in  this  mountainous  coun- 
try, but  the  eye  never  wearies  of  the  prospect.     Suddenly 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  I77 

a  rifle-shot  broke  in  upon  my  meditations,  and  a  deer  came 
down  the  creek  with  the  speed  of  an  arrow.  I  imitated  the 
cry  of  a  deer,,  and  fired  when  he  paused.  He  was  never  to 
race  over  the  hills  again,  and  floundered  out  into  the  creek, 
but  I  took  him  by  the  horns,  brought  him  to  shore,  and,  in 
a  very  few  minutes,  he  was  hanging  in  quarters  on  the 
limbs  of  a  tree.  When  I  got  to  camp,  I  found  that  my  deer 
was  the  only  game  killed  that  day,  so  we  soon  brought  it  in, 
and  had  a  good  supper. 

The  usual  number  of  stories,  wild  and  improbable,  were 
told  that  night  around  the  camp-fire.  Every  hunter  who 
has  been  out  with  a  number  of  others,  knows  what  a  pleas- 
ant pastime  story-telling  is  after  a  hard  day's  march,  and 
how  often  it  is  kept  up  for  the  greater  part  of  the  night. 
When  we  started  out  the  next  day,  we  adopted  our  plan  of 
the  day  before,  each  taking  a  different  route.  I  went  far  up 
the  stream,  and  half-way  up  the  mountain-side,  where  I 
found  myself  in  a  nice  little  park.  In  the  farther  end  was  a 
large  five-pronged  buck,  waiting  for  a  ball  from  my  rifle. 
I  raised  the  sights  to  three  hundred  yards,  took  careful  aim 
at  his  breast,  and  let  fly.  He  sprang  into  the  air,  switched 
his  tail,  bucked  like  a  broncho  and  went  off  like  a  shot,  tear- 
ing away  the  bushes  that  lay  in  his  path.  I  stepped  off  the 
distance  from  where  I  had  stood  to  where  he  had  been 
and  I  found  that  I  had  miscalculated  the  distance,  as  it  was 
four  hundred  yards.  The  blood  that  he  had  shed  was  of  a 
light  red  color,  proving  the  wound  to  be  trifling.  I  followed 
him  for  about  a  mile  along  the  mountainside,  missed  the 
trail,  gave  him  up  for  lost,  and  started  for  camp.  On  the 
way  I  met  one  of  the  boys,  also  returning,  with  his  half- 
breed  shepherd  and  wolfdog,  Captain  Jinks. 

We  walked  leisurely  along,  chatting  together,  taking 
no  particular  notice  of  anything,  until  the  movements  of  the 


178  ADVENTURES  t)F  DR.    ALLEN. 

dog  ahead,  told  us  he  was  following  a  trail.  We  stopped  to 
investigate.  There  were  deer  tracks,  but  all  along  there  was 
a  round  hole  in  the  earth,  in  one  of  the  tracks.  We  followed 
down  the  stream  as  fast  as  our  feet  could  find  the  ground ; 
the  dog  was  by  this  time  out  of  sight  among  the  bushes,  but 
his  cries  broke  upon  our  ears. 

"Captain  Jinks  is  at  bay,"  Jack  said,  "and  we  will  have 
some  fun." 

Half  a  mile  farther  brought  us  to  a  little  opening, 
through  which  we  saw  a  deer,  with  horns  down,  jumping  at 
the  dog.  When  we  were  within  fifty  yards,  the  deer  saw  us 
and  thought  it  policy  to  run.  This  was  not  so  easily  done, 
for  the  cliff  before  it  was  one  hundred  feet  high,  and  nearly 
perpendicular.  The  dog  was  not  willing  to  give  up  the  fight, 
especially  as  help  was  near,  and  caught  the  deer  by  the  ham, 
just  as  it  reached  the  foot  of  the  cliff. 

Over  went  dog  and  deer  in  a  close  embrace,  that  we 
feared  would  crush  the  life  out  of  the  dog.  But  no!  the 
struggle  was  renewed  with  so  much  vigor  that  both  rolled 
into  the  river  with  a  loud  splash.  The  deer  could  wade,  but 
the  dog  must  swim  or  drown.  Every  time  the  dog  tried  to 
climb  the  bank,  the  deer  jumped  at  him  and  sent  him  back 
into  the  water.  If  ever  a  dog's  face  wore  a  pitiful,,  pleading 
expression,  it  was  that  of  Captain  Jinks,  when  he  looked 
at  us  after  the  performance  had  been  repeated  several  times, 
and  he  was  almost  worn  out. 

I  thought  it  time  to  interfere  in  behalf  of  the  faithful 
dog,  and  brought  down  the  deer  with  one  shot.  His  heavy 
body  fell  back  into  the  water  with  a  loud  splash,  turning  its 
clear  color  to  a  crimson  red  in  his  vicinity,  the  water  boiling 
around  him  as  he  struggled  with  his  feet  and  legs.  Jack 
went  down  by  a  circuitous  route  and  pulled  his  almost 
drowned  dog  out  of  the  water.     Together  we  landed  the 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  I79 

deer,  and,  as  the  camp  was  only  about  one  hundred  yards 
below,  we  managed  to  take  him  there  without  help. 

It  was  the  same  deer  that  I  had  wounded  in  the  park, 
by  breaking  his  leg  low  down.  The  holes  we  noticed  among 
the  tracks  were  made  by  the  broken  bone  sticking  into  the 
ground  as  he  bounded  along.  Six  deer  were  killed  that  day. 
The  boys  (excepting  Len  and  myself)  were  satisfied  with 
the  trip  and  the  amount  of  game  killed,  and  went  back  to  the 
Landing  the  next  morning,  but  we  mounted  our  ponies  and 
started  for  Boulder  Creek,  where  we  were  sure  to  find 
plenty  of  game. 

Night  found  us  on  a  summit  of  a  mountain,  where  we 
laid  out  our  route  for  the  morrow  and  followed  it  when 
morning  dawned.  While  crossing  a  low  divide,  we  saw 
seven  large  bull  elks  coming  along  the  ridge  toward  us. 
We  hastily  dismounted^  guessed  the  distance  at  four  hun- 
dred yards  and  shot  at  a  large  elk,  which  drew  up  its  back  a 
little,  and  the  entire  band  started  oi¥  at  their  utmost  speed. 
We  followed  in  the  same  manner  and  found  the  bull  lying 
dead,  not  more  than  three  hundred  yards  from  where  we 
shot  him,  the  ball  having  pierced  his  heart.  We  dressed  him, 
piled  his  head  and  hams  upon  a  rock,  and  went  on  again. 
As  the  sun  was  sinking  to  rest,  we  reached  Middle  Boulder 
Creek  and  followed  a  narrow  trail,  making  four  short 
angles,  that  led  up  to  a  dense  growth  of  cottonwoods. 
There  was  a  narrow  path  into  the  grove,  and  we  were  both 
surprised  and  pleased  to  find  an  old  shack  in  the  clearing, 
secure  from  prying  eyes.  It  was  just  the  place  where  one 
might  live  without  being  troubled  by  Indians,  and  no  doubt 
was  chosen  with  that  object  in  view.  There  was  also  a  stable 
adjoining  the  shack,  large  enough  for  six  or  eight  ponies. 
The  place  was  deserted,  and  there  were  no  traces  to 
lead  us  to  suppose  any  human  being  had  been  there  for  a 


l80  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

long  time.  It  seemed  designed  by  Providence  for  our  special 
use.  Our  scanty  stock  of  provisions  was  soon  unpacked, 
and  we  cooked  supper  in  our  new  house. 

After  a  good  night's  rest  and  a  hearty  breakfast,  we 
were  in  the  best  of  spirits,  and  set  out — John  going  down 
and  I  up  the  stream.  Several  coveys  of  grouse  started  up 
at  my  approach,  but  I  did  not  want  to  frighten  larger  game 
for  the  sake  of  grouse.  Suddenly  ten  deer  came  out  of  a 
dense  cottonwood  thicket  on  my  right,  so  noiselessly  and 
orderly  as  to  scarcely  disturb  a  leaf  or  twig.  Their  heads 
were  held  erect,  their  long  slender  necks  were  finely  arched, 
their  eyes  were  standing  out  like  stars  on  a  clear,  frosty 
night. 

Two  bucks,  side  by  side,  led  the  way,  while  a  large  stag 
with  ponderous  horns  brought  up  the  rear,  with  the  does  and 
fawns  between.  I  shot  at  the  stag.  The  report  echoed  and 
reechoed  from  the  mountain  to  mountain  and  vibrated 
through  the  valley.  The  deer  swept  along  with  the  speed  of 
birds  on  the  wing,  and  were  soon  lost  among  the  low  hills, 
but  the  old  stag  made  a  few  jumps,  then  came  to  earth,  with 
his  glossy  coat  bathed  in  blood. 

About  three  miles  farther  I  saw  something  out  in  the 
water  that  looked  like  a  beaver  on  a  cake  of  ice.  I  went  as 
close  to  it  as  possible  and  saw  that  the  animal  was  an  otter. 
He  was  eating  something  that  I  could  not  make  out,  and  a 
shot  in  the  eye  laid  him  on  his  back.  There  is  always  more 
than  one  way  of  doing  a  thing,  so  I  brought  him  to  the  shore 
with  a  long  hooked  pole,  for  the  ice  would  not  bear  my 
weight.  He  was  a  large  male.  By  him  lay  a  fine  trout,  half 
eaten.  I  examined  his  stomach,  and  found  it  overloaded 
with  trout. 

About  noon  I  came  to  a  singular  little  stream,  that  I 
called  the  Devil's  Slide ;  the  stream  was  very  narrow ;  its 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  l8l 

banks  at  this  point  were  solid,  perpendicular  rocks,  sixty- 
feet  high.  The  water  was  rushing  through  this  slide  with 
the  rapidity  of  an  arrow.  Farther  on  it  disappeared  in  the 
recesses  of  the  rocks,  where  it  was  lost  for  a  short  distance, 
but  it  raised  again,  after  the  rocks  were  passed,  and  flowed 
gently  upward.  It  was  a  curious  freak  of  nature,  and  I 
gazed  upon  it  until  the  descending  sun  warned  me  to  retrace 
my  steps. 

I  had  gone  but  a  short  distance  when  a  skunk  stepped 
boldly  into  my  path,  and,  forgetting  his  manners,  refused 
to  give  the  road.  This  made  me  angry  and  the  battle  com- 
menced. Small  stones  went  whizzing  through  the  air,  and 
my  opponent  was  getting  the  worst  of  the  battle,  when  a 
large  grizzly  bear  appeared  upon  the  scene.  She  came  out  of 
a  patch  of  bushes  just  beyond  the  skunk,  and  stood  upon 
her  haunches,  looking  me  over  with  an  air  that  seemed  to 
forbid  further  hostilities.  There  was  no  tree  near,  but  a 
high  rock  offered  shelter  in  case  I  should  need  it.  I  thought 
I  could  easily  break  her  neck,  but  she  did  not  change  her 
position,  so  I  sent  a  ball  at  her  just  as  she  started  to  get 
down  on  all  fours.  The  ball  struck  her  in  the  back  of  the 
neck,  making  only  a  flesh  wound.  She  roared  as  only  a 
grizzly  can  roar  and  make  a  lunge  at  me.  I  ran  for  the  rock, 
but  found  that  I  could  not  climb  it.  I  then  rushed  around 
it  and  toward  the  creek,  hoping  to  escape  that  way.  The 
dodge  gave  me  time  to  throw  in  another  cartridge,  and, 
as  the  bear  came  around  the  rock,  I  gave  her  another  ball  in 
in  the  breast.  A  roar  loud  and  long  rent  the  air,  and,  be- 
fore I  had  time  to  turn,  she  was  almost  upon  me.  I  then 
ran  for  dear  life,  imagining  all  the  time  that  I  could  feel 
her  sharp  claws  and  teeth  tearing  my  flesh.  She  was  a 
knowing  brute,  and,  instead  of  following  in  the  rear  as  she 
rounded  the  rock,  she  headed  off  my  retreat. 


1 82  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

There  was  nothing  that  could  be  done,  but  to  turn 
aside  and  jump  into  the  creek.  With  one  desperate  leap  I 
cleared  the  ice  that  lay  along  the  bank,  and  fell  into  the  run- 
ning water.  I  was  a  fast  swimmer  and  got  some  start  of 
her,  but  she  soon  gained  upon  me  rapidly.  A  large  rock  was 
upon  the  opposite,  bank,,  some  distance  down  the  stream. 
My  only  hope  lay  in  reaching  it.  Horror!  I  had  not 
thought  of  the  Devil's  Slide,  and  was  almost  into  the  rapids 
that  would  dash  me  to  death  against  the  rocks. 

Death  menaced  me  on  every  hand.  I  threw  my  side 
against  the  waves,  and  ventured  on  a  little  further.  The 
rapids  were  not  so  near  as  I  thought,  although  the  waves 
were  strong.  One  last  powerful  stroke  brought  me  to  shore 
a  little  way  below  the  rock,  but,  while  climbing  the  step 
bank,  the  big  brute  came  so  near,  that  I  was  compelled  to 
relinquish  my  grasp  and  push  her  off  with  my  gun.  Con- 
centrating all  of  my  strength,  I  pushed  her  with  so  much 
force  as  to  send  her  out  into  the  rapids,  which  bore  her  to 
speedy  destruction. 

Had  it  been  possible  to  live  in  the  boiling  waters,  the 
tall  rocks  on  either  side  made  it  impossible  for  her  to  get  out, 
and  I  ran  down  the  bank,  trying  to  catch  a  glimpse  of  her 
but  in  vain.  I  was  almost  ready  to  die  with  cold  and  fatigue. 
My  wet  clothes  hung  upon  me  like  leaden  weights.  In  this 
condition  I  reached  camp,  made  a  fire,  dried  my  clothes, 
cooking  supper  at  the  same  time.  A  strong  cup  of  coffee 
strengthened  and  relieved  me  at  once.  John  was  still  on  the 
war-path,  or  had  been  downed  by  a  grizzly. 

The  waning  light  shone  dimly  through  large  cracks  in 
the  wall,,  for  darkness  was  settling  around  the  shack.  The 
sweet,  yet  mournful,  murmur  of  the  stream  fell  soothingly 
upon  my  wearied  senses.  I  could  hear  the  deer  as  they 
crossed  and  recrossed  and  the  beavers  slapping  the  water 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  183 

with  their  tails  repeatedly,  while  over  all  sounded  the  lonely 
cry  of  the  owl.  The  snapping  of  dry  sticks  aroused  me  from 
a  semi-conscious  state,  and  I  saw  a  large  bull  elk  dash 
through  the  brush  and  across  the  creek  before  I  could  get 
my  gun.    His  eyes  like  two  jack  lamps  as  he  passed. 

John  came  up  through  the  willows  just  then,  and,  after 
a  warm  supper,  we  stretched  our  weary  limbs  before  the 
fire  and  recounted  the  adventures  of  the  day.  John  had 
killed  three  deer,  and  I  told  him  of  my  deer  and  the  skunk, 
but  paused  to  take  breath  before  I  mentioned  the  bear. 

'*But  what  makes  you  look  so  lank?"  he  inquired? 
"Your  clothes  fit  you  closer  than  they  did  when  we  started 
out." 

''Only  a  swimming  race  with  a  grizzly.  You  should 
have  seen  me  when  it  was  over,"  I  said.  We  had  a  big 
laugh  after  all  was  told,  but  I  assure  you  that  I  did  not  even 
smile  while  the  performance  was  going  on. 

We  then  laid  out  the  next  day's  work,  which  was  a 
hunt  far  up  the  stream.  By  daylight  we  were  upon  our 
ponies,  cantering  toward  the  mountains  with  all  of  our 
effects.  Large  numbers  of  grouse,  eagles,  hawks,  antelopes, 
and  deer  were  seen,,  but  we  pressed  onward  for  the  canyon, 
reaching  it  about  noon.  While  we  were  looking  for  a  camp- 
ing-place, a  band  of  mountain  sheep  came  rushing  down 
the  precipice,  rolling  stones  and  logs  before  them.  Our 
pack-animals  were  very  much  frightened,  and  reared  and 
plunged  wildly.  The  saddle-horses  acted  but  little  better, 
and  the  shots  we  fired  missed  their  marks,  because  our 
horses  would  not  stand  still  a  moment.  There  were  no  trees 
to  which  to  tie  the  animals,  but  I  finally  fastened  mine  to  a 
heavy  log,  and,  dropping  upon  one  knee,  sent  a  ball  after  the 
leader.  He  fell,  and  I  made  eight  more  shots,  killing  three 
sheep.     The  pack-horses  that  carried  our  provisions  came 


184  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

back  without  his  load.  We  looked  around,  found  the  flour, 
salt,  pepper,  coffee  and  other  eatables  scattered  over  the 
ground ;  so  we  had  nothing  left  to  eat  but  straight  sheep. 

We  started  for  home  the  next  morning,  but  were  de- 
layed two  days  by  high  waters.  We  stopped  to  pick  up  the 
game  we  had  killed  at  different  places  along  the  road.  A 
bald  eagle  was  taking  care  of  our  elk  on  the  divide,  tearing 
its  flesh  and  picking  out  its  eyes.  Wolves  had  evidently 
been  there  also,  for  there  was  but  one  arm  left. 

We  made  our  camp  that  night  high  on  the  mountain- 
side, and,  as  darkness  came  on,  the  wind  rose,  and  the  air 
was  very  cold.  In  the  night  I  awoke  to  find  myself  wet  with 
perspiration,  and  almost  smothered  by  some  heavy  thing,  I 
could  not  tell  what.  I  raised  the  covering,  and  found  we 
were  under  about  ten  inches  of  snow.  We  had  some  trouble 
in  getting  a  fire  started,  but  finally  succeeded  and  prepared 
a  light  breakfast.  We  were  not  far  from  home,  but  John, 
fearing  to  cross  the  high  waters,  went  up  the  river  to  find 
a  better  crossing,  while  I  took  the  shortest  way. 

I  arrived  at  the  river  in  the  afternoon  and  tied  my  meat 
to  the  end  of  a  long  rope,  then  mounted  my  pony  and  pulled 
my  load  after  me,  letting  out  the  rope  as  it  was  needed.  The 
load  nearly  took  my  pony  down  stream,  but  he  was  a  good 
swimmer,  and  carried  me  safely  to  the  other  shore,  where 
some  of  the  other  boys  were  cheering  me.  I  was  soon  eating 
a  hearty  supper,,  relating  my  adventures  at  the  same  time. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  185 


CHAPTER  XVII, 


LiVB  IN  THE  WiiiDS— Pryor  Creek— camp  in  a  canyon— a  lonely  solitude— a  bald 
eagle— effects  of  a  rifle  shot — a  grizzly  and  her  cubs — a  oave  of  death— a 
mountain  lion's  den — prowling  thieves — still  more  deer— bear  and  elk. 

The  pleasures  of  the  hunt  are  more  than  half  due  to  the 
companions  who  accompany  me,  but  hunting  alone  has  its 
advantages.  There  is  no  one  to  stand  by  and  ridicule  when 
you  miss  your  aim,  or  to  tell  how  much  better  he  could  have 
done  if  you  had  given  him  a  chance.  Failing  to  find  any 
one  who  was  ready  and  willing,  at  that  particular  time,  to 
lay  by  other  work  to  chase  deer  wherever  they  might  be 
found,  I  started  up  Pryor  Creek,  with  three  horses,  but  on 
the  mission  before  mentioned. 

The  waters  of  this  creek  are  very  clear  and  full  of  trout 
as  it  flows  from  the  mountains ;  but,  as  it  nears  the  Yellow- 
stone, several  small  tributaries  come  in  from  the  Bad  Lands, 
making  the  water  dark  and  muddy,  and  catfish  in  large  num- 
bers take  the  place  of  the  trout.  A  hard  day's  drive,  from 
early  morn  until  sundown,  brought  me  near  the  canyon, 
where  I  feasted  from  a  fawn,  killed  on  the  way,  and  potatoes 
and  coffee.  Then  I  sought  repose,  and  did  not  awaken  until 
the  sun  was  high  in  the  heavens  next  day. 

When  the  canyon  was  reached  I  made  camp,  picketed 
my  horses,,  shouldered  my  rifle,  and  took  to  the  hills,  longing 
to  get  within  shot  of  deer  or  elk.  The  country  around  was 
very  broken,  but,  by  climbing  rocks  and  holding  on  to  bushes. 


l86  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

I  managed  to  keep  upon  my  feet  until  exhausted.  Finally  I 
was  compelled  to  sit  down  upon  a  rock  for  a  few  moments' 
rest.  Deep-cut  canyons,  filled  with  dark  green  pines,  sur- 
rounded by  massive  walls  of  gray  granite,  were  yawning  in 
the  broad  noonday  light. 

A  bald  eagle,  looking  as  if  perched  on  air,  was  high 
above  me  in  the  heavens,  sailing  with  pinions  spread,  while 
not  a  quiver  or  motion  of  his  body  was  perceptible.  As 
though  he  would  fain  express  his  scorn  for  a  creature  so  far 
beneath  him,  he  looked  down  upon  me.  Suddenly  he  bent 
his  body  earthward,  clapped  his  wings  close  to  his  sides,  and 
came  down  within  one  hundred  yards.  Around  and  around 
me  he  sailed,  apparently  contemplating  the  advisability  of 
descending  upon  me.  He  paused  over  my  head,  scanning 
the  rocks  upon  which  I  sat,  taking  in  my  position  before  he 
should  gather  me  in  his  talons.  The  temptation  to  conquer 
this  proud  bird  was  too  strong  to  be  resisted.  The  power 
which  held  him  in  space  was  quickly  terminated  by  a  ball 
from  my  rifle,  and  he  fell  to  the  earth  with  a  force  that  split 
his  body  in  twain. 

The  effects  produced  by  a  single  rifle-shot  in  an  unhab- 
ited  region  are  wonderful.  While  the  report  was  echoing 
from  canyon  to  canyon„  ravens  screamed,  the  mountain 
thrush  chattered  in  his  tree,  while  the  squirrels  scampered 
from  branch  to  branch,  frisking  their  tails  and  chattering  in 
chorus.  All  were  intent  upon  seeing  the  intruder  and  deter- 
mining what  was  meant  by  the  unusual  commotion.  A  large 
bull  elk,  either  fearing  for  his  own  safety  or  curious  to  learn 
the  cause  of  the  disturbance,  came  rushing  up  the  canyon, 
tearing  through  the  small  trees  and  bushes  with  his  horns 
as  he  leaped  through  the  air.  Anxious  to  convert  him  into 
meat  for  my  own  use,  I  gave  him  a  hasty  shot.  Alas!  he 
heeded  not  the  summons,  but  increased  his  speed,  leaving  a 
trail  of  blood  to  mark  his  course. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  187 

I  followed,  as  fast  as  fallen  trees  and  other  obstructions 
would  permit,  for  about  two  miles,  when,  covered  with  blood 
and  foam,  he  started  up  from  behind  a  fallen  tree.  Again 
the  report  of  my  rifle  rang  through  the  air,  and  the  animal 
reeled,  fell,  and  lay  prostrate  upon  the  ground,  the  blood 
flowing  in  a  stream  from  his  neck.  It  was  no  small  job  to 
cut  him  up,  but  I  finally  succeeded  in  securing  his  hams,  and 
was  starting  for  the  ponies,  when  a  terrible  roar  caused  me 
to  look  in  the  direction  whence  it  came. 

I  saw  a  large  grizzly  coming,  as  fast  as  it  could,  to  help 
me  dispose  of  my  game,  and  probably  to  dispose  of  me, 
should  I  deny  its  right  to  a  share  of  the  elk.  Two  cubs 
brought  up  the  rear,  eagerly  following  the  trail  of  blood, 
their  savage  appetites  fully  aroused.  My  first  impulse  was 
to  climb  a  tree,  but  the  idea  of  relinquishing  my  game  to 
these  blood-thirsty  animals  was  not  to  be  considered,  so  I 
fired  at  the  foremost  cub,  and  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing 
it  drop  dead.  The  mother  paused  a  moment  to  bewail  the 
loss  of  her  offspring,  only  to  see  the  other  stretched  lifeless 
beside  the  first. 

I  now  directed  a  shot  at  her  ear,  but  missed  the  mark 
and  slightly  fractured  her  lower  jaw.  She  immediately 
deserted  her  dead  cubs  and  rushed  at  me  like  a  tornado, 
uttering  fierce  growls.  Another  shot,  intended  for  the  head, 
struck  her  in  the  neck,  and  with  a  deafening  roar  she  leaped 
toward  me.  I  attempted  to  fire  again,  but  she  was  too  quick 
for  me  and  knocked  the  rifle  from  my  hands.  At  the  same 
instant  I  jumped  behind  a  small  tree  and  swung  myself  up 
among  its  branches. 

Vain  were  her  attempts  to  dislodge  me.  Her  wounds 
distracted  her  attention,,  and,  at  last,  faint  from  loss  of  blood, 
she  lay  down.  I  threw  stick  after  stick  at  her,  hoping  to 
drive  her  to  a  location  more  pleasing  to  myself,  but  she  only 


l88  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

rolled  her  fiery  eyes,  uttering  low  guttural  growls,  until 
death  came  to  her  release.  Fearing  she  might  be  'Splaying 
'possum,"  I  hurled  my  knife  at  her  with  all  my  force.  Yes, 
she  was  certainly  dead!  Still  my  hair  would  stand  on  end 
and  my  teeth  chatter,  as  I  stepped  down  from  my  retreat, 
grasped  my  gun,  and  put  another  ball  into  her,  just  to  make 
assurance  doubly  sure. 

The  spark  of  life  w^s  not  quite  extinct,  but  she  strug- 
gled only  for  a  moment.  Tired  and  somewhat  ruffled  in  tem- 
per, I  sat  down  to  take  in  the  situation.  The  earth  was  torn 
up  in  several  places,  and  the  grass,  but  an  hour  ago  so  green 
and  beautiful,  was  dyed  with  blood.  After  indulging  in  a 
long  reverie.  I  looked  around  for  one  of  the  cubs  that  was 
missing,  and  found  it  dead  in  a  thicket  with  an  ugly  hole 
through  its  back. 

The  sun  was  casting  its  last  rays  upon  the  mountain 
sides  when  I  started  for  camp,  worn  out  with  the  recent 
battle.  Being  anxious  to  reach  camp  before  darkness  should 
overtake  me,,  I  decided  to  follow  the  creek,  though  it  led  me 
through  brush  and  over  logs,  and  necessitated  my  wading  its 
waters,  which  were  very  swift.  Passing  through  a  deep  cut 
in  the  creek  bottom,  fenced  in  by  high  smooth  walls,  I  caught 
sight  of  a  large  pair  of  elk's  antlers  on  my  right.  Upon 
making  a  closer  examination,  I  found  thirteen  pairs  of  ant- 
lers, besides  other  bones  all  within  a  short  distance,  and  the 
animals  had  evidently  been  killed  recently,  for  flesh  still 
clung  to  the  bones. 

At  this  point  there  was  a  deep  recess  in  the  rocky  wall, 
forming  a  cave  about  sixty  feet  in  width  by  twelve  in  length. 
There  was  a  wide  entrance  at  the  farther  end,  running  into 
the  mountain,  large  enough  to  admit  any  animal.  While  not- 
ing the  appearance  of  this  cave,  which  I  termed  in  my  mind 
the  cave  of  death,  or  the  home  of  beasts  of  prey,  a  little  clod 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  189 

came  tumbling  down  from  overhead  and,  looking  up  quickly, 
I  saw  a  large  mountain  lion,  with  eyes  gleaming,  his  tail 
swinging,  as  was  his  custom  when  getting  ready  for  a  leap. 
None  too  soon  I  sent  a  ball  on  its  massion,  and  beheld  him 
drop  dead  in  front  of  his  lair. 

Pressing  still  farther  into  the  cave,  I  found  a  full-grown 
elk  lying  dead,  and  from  fifteen  to  twenty  pairs  of  antlers 
close  to  the  mouth  of  the  den.  There  were,  besides,  the 
heads  of  mountain  sheep  and  carcasses  of  antelopes.  Some 
of  the  horns  were  badly  decayed,  showing  that  the  work 
of  destruction  had  been  going  on  for  a  long  time.  Others 
looked  fresh,  and  the  animals  had  evidently  been  the  victims 
of  mountain  lions. 

This  kind  of  lion  is  from  eight  to  eleven  feet  in  length, 
low  in  stature,  having  powerful  limbs,  and  jaws  capable  of 
tearing  into  pieces  almost  any  animal.  They  secure  their 
game  in  much  the  same  manner  as  the  Indian  practices  war- 
fare ;  by  either  lying  in  ambush  or  crouched  upon  a  rock  in 
the  shadow  of  a  tree  over  some  watering-place  or  mountain 
pass,  and,  while  their  victims  are  refreshing  themselves,  or 
passing  quickly  from  one  district  to  another,  they  leap  upon 
them  with  a  force  which  crushes  them  to  the  earth,  never  to 
rise  again.    They  seldom  attack  man  unless  wounded. 

The  shortest  road  to  camp  proved  to  be  the  longest,  so 
long  did  I  linger  by  the  way,  and  it  was  almost  dark  when  I 
reached  that  most  desirable  of  all  spots  to  the  tired  hunter. 
But  my  hunger  was  soon  appeased,  and  ere  long  I  was  far 
away  in  dreamland. 

Very  early  next  morning  I  saddled  my  ponies  and  set 
out  to  bring  in  my  game.  The  ponies  could  not  be  induced 
to  go  near  the  carcess  of  the  bear,  so  I  tied  them  up  and  first 
went  to  take  care  of  the  elk.  What  a  sight  to  meet  the  gaze 
of  a  hungry  man !    The  elk  had  been  torn  to  pieces  and  nicely 


190 


ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 


DEAD  LOCK  OF  WHITE  TAIL  BUCKS  FOUND  IN  JUDITH  MOUNTAINS. 


covered  up  for  future  use,  and  the  bear  had  likewise  met 
with  rough  usage ;  her  coat  was  almost  torn  from  her  back, 
and  the  cubs  had  entirely  disappeared.     Yesterday's  work 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  IQI 

had  been  in  vain.  My  treasures  were  gone,  and,  with  a  sad 
heart,  I  left  the  remains  to  the  prowling  thieves  that  had 
despoiled  me. 

Going  down  a  ridge,  covered  with  green  grass  and 
dotted  here  and  there  by  trees,  I  saw  a  deer  standing  by  a 
rock  about  one  hundred  yards  distant. 

''I  shall  not  go  to  camp  empty-handed  if  I  can  help  it," 
I  remarked  to  myself,  as  I  hastily  dismounted,  tied  the 
ponies  to  a  bush,  and  took  deliberate  aim.  The  deer  made 
one  bound  and  fell  dead.  He  was  as  beautiful  a  specimen 
of  his  kind  as  I  had  ever  seen,  so  I  packed  him  on  one  of  the 
ponies  and  made  a  fresh  start. 

Nothing  else  particularly  attracted  my  attention  until  I 
had  gone  several  miles  beyond,  when  my  ponies  gave  a 
snort  and  rushed  madly  to  one  side. 

A  large  bear  had  started  up  from  a  clump  of  bushes 
and  ran  like  mad.  Two  of  the  ponies  got  loose  and  left  me 
far  behind,  and  the  rearing  of  the  one  I  rode  made  it  impos- 
sible for  me  to  get  a  shot.  After  a  long  chase,  I  came  up 
with  the  pack-ponies  and  found  the  deer  swinging  beneath 
them.  That  night  I  dined  on  venison,  potatoes,  onions, 
warm  biscuits,  and  coffee.  Sitting  by  a  blazing  fire,  I  went 
through  the  events  of  the  day  in  imagination. 

While  engaged  in  getting  the  meat  ready  for  the  jour- 
ney home,  darkness  came  down  in  what  seemed  an  incred- 
ibly short  space  of  time.  While  preparing  to  rest  upon  my 
bed  of  saddle-blankets,  I  heard  the  splash  of  waters,  and, 
looking  up  the  creek,  saw  two  fiery  eyes  approaching.  I 
noiselessly  took  up  my  gun,  fired,  and  the  flash  lighted  up 
the  darkness  several  yards  in  all  directions;  then  came  a 
terrible  splash,  and  the  blazing  orbs  drew  nearer.  I  had 
taken  the  precaution  of  throwing  a  cartridge  into  the  maga- 
zine immediately  after  firing,  and  it  was  well  that  I  did,  for  a 


192  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

wounded  elk  came  dashing  toward  my  fire,  furious  with 
pain.  His  large  antlers  glittered  in  the  firelight,  while  the 
blood  flowing  from  a  wound  over  his  face  made  him  truly 
an  object  of  pity,  as  well  as  of  fear.  I  fired  again.  He  gave 
a  great  lunge  and  fell  almost  into  the  fire.  The  ponies  were 
in  a  terrible  fright,  rearing  and  plunging,  but  the  pins  held 
them  fast.  Another  streak  of  luck  after  the  disappoint- 
ment of  the  morning.  I  went  to  bed  well  satisfied  with  the 
success  of  the  day,  congratulating  myself  upon  the  amount 
of  meat  in  store,  and  on  the  next  morning  by  daylight  was 
on  the  road,  loaded  with  the  best  of  game. 

In  this  manner  the  time  passed,  fall  came,  and  I  began 
to  tire  of  my  hunter's  life.  My  mind  dwelt  upon  my  home  in 
Ohio  and  I  had  a  desire  to  see  my  old  friends  once  more,  so 
I  commenced  preparations  for  a  homeward  journey. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  1 93 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


A  Journey  to  CiviLizATioiir — Crow  Indians  and  their  sweethearts— a  long 
trip  before  me — on  the  water — a  retrospect— more  hunting— a  dead  be^r — 
antelopes — bnif aloes-  a  Crow  camp— frightened  Indians — an  old  friend — 
hard  traveling— at  Fort  Buford— take  train  at  Bismarck. 

It  was  November.  Leaves  of  purple  and  gold  covered 
all  the  land  and  the  bare  branches  of  the  trees  waved  to  and 
fro  in  the  winds,  which  swept  in  fitful  gusts  through  the 
camp  of  a  party  of  Crow  Indians  on  the  Little  Horn  River. 
The  braves  had  just  returned  from  a  successful  hunt,  their 
ponies  loaded  with  the  choicest  of  meats  and  buffalo  robes. 
The  joyous  songs  of  the  dusky  maids  rang  through  the  air 
as  the  young  bucks  deposited  at  their  feet  the  fruits  of  the 
chase,  and  the  older  squaws  crowded  around  the  warriors, 
exhibiting  every  token  of  the  warmest  welcome. 

The  more  bashful  maids  were  anxiously  awaiting  the 
approach  of  their  sweethearts,  the  custom  being  for  each  one 
to  take  his  load  of  meat  to  the  tepee  of  the  maid  he  loves,  that 
she  may  select  the  choicest  cuts  before  leaving  the  bulk  with 
his  parents.  The  papooses  were  running,  and  jumping,  and 
screaming,  and  dogs  innumerable  swelled  the  chorus. 

It  was  on  this  day  that  my  sixteen- foot  skiff,  which  I 
had  been  working  at  for  some  time,  was  finished,  stored  full 
of  necessaries,  and  ready  to  sail.  The  canvas  was  set  up- 
right on  the  rear  end,  to  form  a  sort  of  tent,  that  could  be 
lowered  if  the  weather  demanded.  While  the  hubbub  was 
at  its  height  in  the  Indian  camp,  I  launched  my  skiff  into 


194  ADVENTURES   OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

the  crystal  waters  of  the  Litttle  Horn,  attended  by  the 
'"Hows"  and  good  wishes  of  the  chiefs.  I  was  starting  for 
my  home,  a  journey  of  about  twelve  hundred  miles,  and 
must  travel  a  good  part  of  the  way,  alone  in  my  little  boat, 
through  an  Indian  country.  With  one  oar  I  pushed  the  craft 
from  the  bank  and  was  soon  floating  down  with  the  current. 

The  news  had  gone  through  the  camp  that  the  big 
medicine-man  was  going  to  the  rising  sun  in  the  little  mar- 
shey  (boat),  and  as  I  guided  slowly  away,  the  bank  was  alive 
with  reds  of  all  sexes,  sizes,  and  ages.  Old  Raw  Hide  was 
the  last  person  my  eyes  rested  upon,  as  my  skiff  rounded 
the  bend  in  the  river,  and  he  shouted  after  me,  that  I  would 
get  through  all  right  if  I  would  remember  to  be  very  quiet 
and  careful  while  passing  through  the  Sioux,  who  were 
camped  somewhere  on  the  river. 

At  this  season  of  the  year  the  waters  of  the  Little  Horn 
are  very  low,  so  in  some  places  it  was  hard  pulling,  but 
when  I  reached  the  Big  Horn  I  had  fair  sailing,  for  its 
waters  were  swift  and  deep.  When  once  fairly  afloat,  my 
light  skiff  whirled  like  a  cork,  but,  with  a  few  strokes,  1 
set  it  straight  in  the  current  and  dashed  along  at  the  will  oi 
the  restless  tide.  White  gulls  floated  through  the  air  and 
skimmed  the  surface  of  the  waves  with  their  downy  breasts, 
while  their  chattering  notes  continually  reminded  me  of 
their  presence.  My  thoughts  were  far  away.  My  mind 
wandered  back  to  the  old  home,  where  relatives  and  friends 
were  still  plodding  along  in  the  same  old  way,  the  same  old 
round  of  duty  stretching  from  day  to  day,  leading  them 
onward  through  the  year. 

I  took  a  brief  retrospective  view  of  the  hardships  and 
dangers  through  which  I  had  passed — many  hunts,,  many 
camp-scenes,  and,  more  than  all,  I  thought  of  the  brave  boys 
who  had  given  up  their  lives  on  the  plains.     So  vividly  did 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  I95 

the  past  rise  up  before  me,  that  I  fancied  I  could  hear  the 
tramp  of  the  war-horses,  and  the  savage  yells  of  the  Sioux  as 
they  charged  upon  us.  I  remembered  friendships,  made  and 
cemented  under  trying  circumstances,  that  will  last  as  long 
as  life  itself. 

My  reverie  was  terminated  by  the  sight  of  a  large 
beaver  swimming  rapidly  before  me.  All  instincts  of  a 
hunter  were  at  once  aroused  within  me,  though  the  game 
was  very  small.  I  was  about  fifty  yards  from  him  when  he 
made  a  dive.  I  had  been  drifting  idly  along,  but  now  I 
caught  the  oars,  made  several  rapid  strokes,  and  dropped 
them  again  when  close  upon  him.  He  arose,  dived  again 
and  I  repeated  the  rowing  process.  This  time  I  came  out 
ahead  of  him.  His  house  was  evidently  below  me,  and  when 
he  next  came  to  the  surface,  almost  drowned,  I  took  deliber- 
ate aim  at  the  back  of  his  head  and  fired.  I  reached  the  spot 
where  he  had  last  appeared,  and  there  was  plenty  of  hair, 
blood,  and  brains  visible,,  but  no  beaver ;  he  had  gone  down 
never  to  rise  gain.  I  could  only  thank  him  for  diverting 
my  mind  from  thoughts  that  had  become  painful. 

Although  the  day  had  been  warm,  as  the  sun  declined, 
and  night  drew  near,  the  air  became  quite  cold.  I  had  trav- 
eled a  long  distance,  was  hungry,  tired  and  cold,  so  I  rode  to 
a  beautiful  island,  which  I  found  covered  with  tall  trees,  red 
willows  and  bilberry  bushes,  forming  a  thick  undergrowth. 
Hauling  my  skiff  out  upon  a  little  sandbar,,  I  soon  had  a  fire 
with  coffee  simmering  over  it.  A  slight  noise  in  the  bushes, 
some  distance  below,  caught  my  ear„  and,  with  gun  in  hand, 
I  pushed  in  that  direction  to  discover  its  cause.  My  eyes 
were  gladdened  by  the  sight  of  a  large  doe  and  two  fawns, 
going  to  the  water's  edge  to  drink.  I  decided  to  secure  the 
fawn  next  to  me,  and  brought  him  down  at  one  shot.  The 
others  turned  and  fled  across  the  island,  making  the  bushes 
rattle  in  their  flight. 


196  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

I  broiled  a  fine  steak  over  the  coals,  and,  in  addition, 
with  my  meal  I  had  cranberry  sauce,  fried  potatoes  and 
warm  biscuits.  As  I  had  eaten  no  dinner,  I  did  each  dish 
full  justice.  I  then  attempted  to  spend  a  quiet  hour  in  read- 
ing by  the  fire,  but  beavers  splashing  the  water  and  the  run- 
ning of  deer  kept  me  constantly  on  the  alert,  however  much 
I  tried  to  disregard  them.  At  ten  o'clock  I  spread  my  bed 
in  the  skiff  and  laid  down  to  pleasant  dreams,  with  no  fear 
of  danger. 

Before  the  sun  had  risen,  I  was  awakened  by  a  great 
noise  in  the  bushes,  and,  on  looking  out,  saw  a  bear  with  the 
forequarters  of  my  fawn.  Nothing  so  enrages  me  as  to  be- 
hold "the  impudent  manner  in  which  this  animal  invariably 
pounces  upon  and  carries  off  another's  property.  I  gave 
him  a  shot  near  the  heart,  and  my  best  wishes  went  with  it. 
He  started  to  run.  I  gave  him  another  in  the  hind  parts ; 
then  he  reared,,  roared,  and  tore  up  the  bushes  in  his  path 
as  far  as  I  could  see  him. 

Concluding  that  he  could  not  live  to  make  so  free  with 
another's  property,  I  lay  down  and  took  another  nap.  After 
I  had  arisen,  five  deer  came  bounding  past ;  and  I  caught  up 
my  gun  through  force  of  habit,  but,  reflecting  that  I  had 
no  room  for  more  meat  nor  time  to  attend  to  it,  I  allowed 
them  to  pass  unmolested,  and  made  another  start  toward  my 
destination. 

At  the  lower  end  of  the  island  I  discovered  an  object 
which,  as  I  approached,  grew  larger  and  larger,  but  it  was 
not  until  I  was  very  close  that  I  saw  it  was  the  bear  I  had 
shot  in  the  morning,  lying  with  his  legs  straight  up  in  the 
air,  his  countenance  wearing  that  look  of  ferocity  habitual 
to  the  grizzly,  even  in  death.  Leaving  him  to  the  mercy  of 
wild  beasts,  I  pushed  on  to  the  Yellowstone.  Wild  geese 
and  ducks  frequently  came  very  close,  but,  as  time  was  pre- 
cious, I  gave  them  no  heed. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIEb.  I97 

But  why  undertake  to  follow  each  day's  adventures? 
It  would  prove  both  wearisome  and  uninteresting,,  though 
to  myself,  without  companionship,  each  little  incident  seemed 
fraught  with  peculiar  meaning.  The  days,  so  far,  had  been 
pleasant,  but  the  nights  were  growing  colder  and  colder, 
and  I  greatly  feared  a  snow  would  fall,  or  the  river  would 
freeze  over,  which  would  leave  me  in  a  very  bad  situation, 
as  the  voyage  would  have  to  be  discontinued  until  warm 
weather.  I  reached  the  Yellowstone  River  on  the  second 
day,  a  distance  of  seventy-five  miles  from  my  starting  point, 
and  was  now  making  my  way  toward  the  Missouri. 

When  these  fears  began  to  oppress  my  mind,  I  re- 
doubled my  diligence,  and  on  the  third  night  stopped  upon 
a  gravel-bar,  beneath  some  giant  cottonwood  trees,  where 
the  cool  breezes  seemed  unusually  refreshing.  After  a 
hearty  supper,  I  saw  a  large  herd  of  antelopes  coming  down 
the  opposite  hillside — it  was  not  yet  dark — so  I  let  my  skiff 
bear  me  along  until  I  was  hidden  from  their  view„  when  I 
rowed  rapidly  toward  the  point  for  which  they  were  making, 
until  only  a  small  hill  intervened  between  me  and  the  game. 
They  had  reached  the  river  and  were  drinking.  I  could  not 
see  them  from  where  I  stood,  and  concluded  that  they  had 
scented  me  and  gone  back,  but  I  found  the  trail  and  started 
toward  the  river.  Suddenly  they  appeared,  having  satisfied 
their  thirst,  and  came  rushing  toward  me  like  the  wind,  their 
nimble  feet  scattering  the  gravel  in  every  direction,  and 
throwing  it  high  into  the  air.  While  they  were  passing  me, 
I  brought  down  three  of  their  number,  helped  myself  to  as 
much  of  their  flesh  as  I  could  well  carry,  and  settled  down 
for  the  night. 

My  boat  was  now  heavily  loaded,  but  she  was  well  built, 
and,  the  water  being  deep,  I  had  no  difficulty  in  pulling  her 
through  as  rapidly  as  my  strength,  which  was  not  inconsid- 


198  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

erable,  would  permit.  I  was  resting  for  a  moment,,  when  I 
chanced  to  look  down  the  river,  and  saw,  on  a  small  island, 
as  many  as  one  hundred  buffaloes.  Some  were  lying  down, 
others  standing  gazing  idly  around,  while  some  of  them  were 
goring  the  bank  with  their  horns. 

As  my  boat  was  drifting  directly  toward  them,  I  made 
no  other  movement  than  to  take  up  my  gun,  which  was  sup- 
ported by  hooks  at  my  side.  The  wind,  which  was  blowing 
toward  me,  was  favorable.  They  did  not  so  much  as  turn 
their  heads,  and,  should  they  discover  me,  they  might  easily 
mistake  my  skiff  for  a  floating  tree.  When  the  report  of 
my  rifle  broke  the  stillness,  they  started  up  and  were  off, 
their  languor  instantly  forsaking  them,  being  succeeded  by 
the  wildest  alarm. 

When  they  rushed  into  the  stream,  such  a  great  volume 
of  water  was  thrown  into  the  air  that  it  seemed  as  if  the 
river  were  lifted  from  its  bed.  The  waves,  lashed  into  white 
caps,  receded  before  the  mass  of  living,  struggling  creat- 
ures, like  surging  billows  before  a  mighty  tempest.  Finally 
they  took  to  swimming  quietly,  when  I  pulled  rapidly  toward 
them  and  fired  another  volley  of  shots,  when  those  in  the 
rear  leaped  upon  those  just  in  front,  a  large  number  being 
submerged  and  great  confusion  ensued.  They  were  all 
heaped  together,  some  riding  upon  others  which  were  almost 
drowned. 

I  came  close  enough  to  punch  one  with  an  oar,  but  when 
he  turned  for  fight  the  current  was  too  much  for  him.  He 
gave  up  the  attempt  and  made  for  the  bank,  where  a  general 
stampede  took  place.  Some  went  one  way  and  some  another, 
uttering  loud  snorts.  They  kept  up  a  gallop,  across  the  val- 
ley, as  far  as  I  could  see  them.  The  excitement  of  the  chase 
lent  me  fresh  strength  and  again  I  pushed  forward.  I  could 
have  killed  a  score  or  more  of  them  had  I  so  desired. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  1 99 

The  next  day  I  saw  game  in  the  distance,  running  as 
though  in  fright,  and  this  gave  me  some  uneasiness,,  as  I 
suspected  Indians  to  be  in  the  vicinity — perhaps  the  blood- 
thirsty Sioux,  against  whom  I  had  been  warned.  I  began 
making  all  preparations  in  my  power  to  make,  in  case  of  an 
attack,  and  arranged  my  bundles  of  robes  to  be  used  as 
breastworks.  A  few  miles  farther  on  many  Indian  tepees 
could  be  seen  in  a  large  body  of  timber  along  the  river.  I 
soon  discovered  the  Indians  were  Crows,  and,  much  relieved, 
I  approached  them  without  hesitation.  The  warriors  seemed 
to  be  holding  a  troubled  council. 

Attracted  by  my  boat,  warriors,  squaws  and  papooses  as- 
sembled on  the  river  bank*  all  crying  out,  ''How !  how !"  A 
little  girl  crawled  out  to  the  end  of  a  log,  extending  far  over 
the  water,  and  sat  there,  her  bead-like  eyes  glistening  like 
diamonds,  while  her  guardians  seemed  to  have  no  fears  for 
her  safety.  I  secured  my  boat  and  soon  learned  that  their 
gloomy  looks  were  caused  by  a  rumor  that  a  large  party  of 
Sioux  were  coming  from  the  south,  and  they  feared  they 
would  steal  their  ponies,  even  if  no  further  harm  were  in- 
tended. 

A  number  of  squaws  gathered  around  me  and  asked 
where  I  was  going.  I  replied  that  I  was  going  to  the  great 
Father  of  Waters,  beyond  the  rising  sun.  They  said  my  boat 
was  too  small  to  sail  in  such  great  waters,  but  I  assured  them 
the  Great  Spirit  was  with  me,  which  statement  excited  a  gen- 
eral laugh,  one  making  bold  to  say  that  I  would  lose  my 
scalp  before  I  got  through  the  Sioux  country.  I  distributed 
some  trifling  gifts  among  them  and  bade  them  farewell.  An 
old  chief  hallooed  after  me,  to  say  if  I  saw  any  Indians  with- 
out tepees,  I  might  know  they  were  Sioux. 

About  ten  o'clock  next  day,  as  I  was  urging  my  boat 
through  a  rough  rapid,  I  saw  about  four  hundred  yards 


2CX)  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

ahead  of  me  as  many  as  five  hundred  Indians  crossing  the 
river.  I  fired  three  shots  from  my  Winchester  after  them, 
just  to  give  them  a  scare.  The  balls  struck  almost  at  the 
same  time.  Such  a  fright  as  they  caused !  The  stolen  horses 
were  rushed  through  the  water  and  some  of  the  colts  were 
nearly  drowned.  One  of  the  Indians  lost  a  red  blanket,  but 
would  not  stop  to  pick  it  up. 

When  they  reached  land  they  went  like  the  wind,  never 
once  looking  behind  them.  I  gave  them  a  few  more  shots, 
none  of  which  did  any  injury,  and  they  must  have  thought 
that  a  large  body  of  the  enemy  was  after  them.  They  were 
soon  winding  through  the  foothills  and  out  of  sight.  I 
boarded  my  man-of-war,  sent  her  down  the  rapids  like  an  ar- 
row, and  picked  up  the  red  blanket,,  which  is  still  among  my 
possessions,  a  valued  relic. 

When  night  approached,  the  snow  began  to  fall  and  the 
wind  to  blow.  I  kept  on  my  way,  not  knowing  where  I 
should  land,  until  finallv  I  reached  a  place  where  the  waters 
made  such  a  fearful  roar  that  I  feared  there  might  be  rapids 
ahead,  and,  unwilling  to  take  any  chances,  I  pulled  for  the 
shore.  I  found  a  large  cottonwood,  to  which  I  tied  my  boat, 
and  was  trying  to  make  out  my  location  in  the  darkness, 
when  two  dogs  came  rushing  upon  me  with  the  ferocity  of 
hungry  wolves.  I  drew  my  gun,  and  they  halted  just  in 
time  to  save  their  hides  from  being  perforated.  A  cabin 
door  opened,  and  a  long,  lean  man  came  out,  calling: 

"Here  Tiger!     Here  Tiger!" 

"Halloo!"  said  I. 

"Halloo,  stranger !  Where  in  the  dickens  did  you  come 
from?  I've  jest  come  in  from  a  scouting  expedition,  and 
did  not  know  there  was  a  white  man  in  the  country.  Come 
in ;  git  out,  you  dogs !" 

I  followed  him  into  the  cabin,  where  the  feeble  rays 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  20I 

of  a  tallow  candle  were  extinguished  by  a  blast  of  wind 
through  the  open  door.  "Git  a  seat,  and  I'll  strike  a  light," 
called  out  my  host,  in  what  seemed  to  be  a  familiar  voice, 
and,  in  fact,  I  felt  sure  that  I  had  heard  it  before.  The  can- 
dle being  relighted,  he  turned  to  inspect  his  guest,  and  im- 
mediately burst  out  with: 

"Holy  angels,  Allen !    Why,  old  boy !    Well,  I  never !" 

'^Archie  Mclnerty !"  I  replied.  "The  only  time  we  ever 
met,  we  were  both  of  us  on  the  first  grand  jury  that  ever 
sat  in  Miles  City,  and  here  we  meet  again." 

"Sit  down!  sit  down!"  he  said,  in  a  commanding  tone 
of  voice.  "I'll  git  some  supper,  and  then  we'll  talk  over  old 
times." 

In  a  short  time  he  had  prepared  a  repast  that  I  can  taste 
even  yet  in  my  imagination,  so  delicious  was  it  to  my  palate 
after  that  hard  day's  work.  We  ate  and  talked  for  more  than 
two  hours,  relating  our  past  experiences.  Archie  is  an  old- 
timer  on  the  Yellowstone,  has  passed  through  many  places, 
and  is  truly  a  genuine  hunter. 

Next  morning  I  bade  him  adieu,  and  started  out  on  what 
proved  to  be  the  most  disagreeable  day  of  my  journey.  An 
east  wind  bore  heavily  against  me,  and  when  night  came 
I  was  almost  exhausted.  When  I  attempted  to  rise  from 
my  bed  next  morning,  I  thought  some  one  must  be  holding 
me  down ;  but,  on  pushing  back  the  canvass,  I  saw  that  I  was 
buried  beneath  the  snow,  which  had  fallen  to  the  depth  of 
six  inches. 

The  wind,  although  somewhat  moderated,  impeded  my 
progress  as  much  as  it  had  the  day  previous.  I  pulled  hard 
all  day,  and  was  surprised  to  find  that  I  had  made  no  more 
than  fifteen  miles.  My  boat  was  weakening,  for  it  had  been 
almost  torn  to  pieces  against  the  rocks  in  Buffalo  Rapids, 
and  several  times  I  feared  she  would  go  no  farther.     The 


202  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

water  was  at  its  lowest  mark,  and  the  sharp  rocks  had  given 
her  some  fearful  knocks. 

As  she  was  half  full  of  water,  I  was  obliged  to  stop  for 
repairs,  and  fortunately  I  had  with  me  a  bucket  of  pitch, 
which  saved  me  from  walking  the  rest  of  the  way.  I  was 
out  of  fresh  meat,  and  resolved  to  get  a  supply.  About  noon 
a  large  mountain  sheep  came  toward  the  river,  then  an- 
other and  still  another  appeared ;  so  I  selected  a  fine  young 
lamb,  and  was  soon  packing  it  away  in  the  boat. 

Near  Glendive  I  met  a  party  of  hunters,  some  of  whom 
I  had  seen  before,  while  others  were  known  to  me  by  repu- 
tation. When  I  arrived  at  Fort  Buford,  the  old  steamer  Mc- 
Cloud  was  getting  ready  to  make  her  last  trip  for  that  sea- 
son. Gladly  I  quitted  my  frail  craft  and  took  cabin  pas- 
sage for  Bismarck,  well  protected  from  the  inclemency  of 
the  weather.  Never  mortal  man  felt  happier  than  I  at  that 
time.  For  thirteen  days  I  had  been  battling  with  wind  and 
waves,  exposed  to  many  dangers,  and  with  no  companion  to 
cheer  me  on  the  way. 

We  made  the  trip  from  Fort  Buford  to  Bismarck  in 
four  days.  When  I  boarded  the  railroad  train  I  was  wearing 
my  buckskin  suit,  which  made  me  an  object  of  no  little  curi- 
osity and  remark  to  the  Eastern  people,  who,  perhaps,  re- 
garded me  as  at  least  half  savage.  When  my  home  station 
was  reached,  I  stopped  at  a  hotel  and  barely  escaped  being 
refused  the  privilege  of  the  house,  owing  to  my  appearance. 
But,  after  convincing  the  landlord  that  I  was  born  of  civil- 
ized parents,  in  the  state  of  Ohio,,  he  consented  to  let  me 
remain.  With  a  good  team  and  driver,  the  fourteen  miles 
to  my  home  were  soon  passed,  and  at  last  I  found  myself 
again  among  friends. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  203 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


Again  in  the  West— Off  for  the  hills— Bo  via  Creek— three  deer  at  three  shots- 
good  sport— Jack  and  Antelope— wolves— fishing  on  the  Upper  Big  Horn- 
interesting  sport— a  storm— the  old  Major— some  "yellow  dogs"— a  lion's 
den— an  Indian  paradise. 

I  had  returned  to  civilization  surfeited  with  wild  West- 
ern life.  I  was  determined  to  settle  down  in  my  old  home  and 
enjoy  the  many  privileges  and  advantages  from  which  fron- 
tiersmen are  debarred.  But  I  could  not  feel  that  it  was  the 
same  old  home  I  had  so  fondly  and  often  remembered  dur- 
ing my  wanderings.  Or  rather,  I  was  not  the  same  man  that 
I  had  been  when  I  left  those  familiar  scenes,  and  the  simple 
pleasures  that  once  so  delighted  me  had  now  become  taste- 
less. The  sight  of  a  fence  was  disagreeable,  after  having 
looked  so  long  across  boundless  prairies,  whose  beauty 
the  hand  of  man  had  not  yet  marred.  I  longed  for  the  old 
free  life,  for  a  sight  of  the  dear  old  mountains,  and,  after  a 
short  stay,  I  again  made  my  way  westward,  landing  at  Fort 
Custer,  Montana. 

For  a  time  I  enjoyed  life  among  the  soldiers  there  sta- 
tioned in  the  garrison.  But,  the  weather  being  fine,  I  craved 
for  a  good  hunt,,  and,  through  the  kindness  of  Captain  Fow- 
ler, then  acting  quartermaster,,  I  obtained  five  pack  mules 
and  a  good  saddle-horse.  In  company  with  Mike  Barrett, 
a  first-class  packer,  and  taking  with  us  plenty  of  rations,  am- 
munition and  supplies,  I  crossed  the  Big  Horn  ferry  and 
started  for  Bovia  Creek,  twenty  miles  distant.    On  the  road 


204  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

we  killed  a  few  grouse  and  jack-rabbits,  the  only  game  that 
came  within  rifle-shot.  We  went  into  camp  early,  in  order 
to  unpack  and  look  around  a  little,  lay  our  plans,  and  be 
ready  to  commence  operations  in  earnest  in  the  morning. 

Bovia  Creek  rises  in  the  Pryor  mountains  and  empties 
into  the  Big  Horn  River.  The  country  around  was  then  a 
favorable  location  for  hunters.  While  here  in  camp  noth- 
ing transpired  worth  relating,  and  we  went  on  to  Clark's 
Creek,  remained  over  night,  and  from  there  packed  to  the 
Yellowstone,  where  we  camped  on  Canyon  Creek.  Here  we 
spent  several  days  looking  around,  and  then,  with  I.  W. 
Danford  and  Frank  Somers,,  fresh  recruits  and  both  good 
shots,  we  started  in  quest  of  game. 

We  forded  the  Yellowstone,  and  had  traveled  south- 
ward about  five  miles,  when  we  ran  into  a  band  of  deer  and 
opened  up  a  lively  fire  upon  them,  which  soon  diminished 
their  numbers.  We  dressed  fourteen  and  hung  them  up  for 
the  magpies  to  feast  on  while  we  rode  on  to  Pryor  Creek. 
The  grass  had  been  burned  off,  and,  as  plenty  of  grazing 
space  is  a  necessity  to  a  hunting  party  with  animals  to  be 
fed,  we  almost  despaired  of  finding  a  camping-place  until 
we  reached  a  small  island,  containing  about  one  acre  of 
ground  well  covered  with  grass. 

"There  is  not  a  bite  of  meat  in  camp,"  said  Somers,  as 
we  prepared  supper. 

The  mules  appeared  to  be  very  uneasy.  With  ears 
thrown  forward,  they  kept  looking  into  a  patch  of  cherry- 
bushes.  Remembering  several  occasions  upon  which  mules 
had  scented  game  and  thus  revealed  its  presence,  I  took  my 
rifle  and  went  into  the  bushes,  where  my  suspicions  were 
verified.  A  deer  bounded  out  of  the  patch  and  ran  toward 
the  creek.  I  fired  when  he  was  almost  across  the  stream. 
The  ball  struck  the  ground  in  front  of  him,  throwing  up 


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In  the  Canyon. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  207 

a  cloud  of  dust,  which  caused  him  to  turn  toward  me,  when 
I  ran  broadside  and  fired  again,  breaking  his  neck. 

'Tlenty  of  meat  in  camp  now,"  I  said,  and  we  soon 
had  some  steaks  for  supper.  The  boys  had  caught  a  few 
trout,  but  it  was  too  late  in  the  day  for  successful  fishing. 

The  next  day,  after  a  hard  ride  far  up  the  mountain, 
we  camped  near  a  little  rill,  whose  clear,  cold  waters  bub- 
bled from  beneath  massive  rocks.  I  was  in  advance  of  the 
boys  and  started  up  three  white-tailed  deer.  One  fell  at  the 
first  shot,  but  the  other  two  turned  and  were  running  across 
the  hill  when  I  killed  the  second,  and,  by  a  lucky  shot  dis- 
patched the  third,  as  he  was  nearing  the  hilltop.  This  was 
the  first  time  I  had  been  able  to  kill  three  of  these  deer  at 
three  shots,  and  my  success  caused  me  to  smile  a  little.  It 
is  harder  to  kill  three  white-tailed  deer  than  a  dozen  others, 
for  they  do  not  stop  to  see  where  the  balls  are  coming  from, 
but  bound  off  at  their  utmost  speed. 

We  took  these  deer  safely  to  camp  and  made  another 
trip  up  the  canyon.  This  time  we  encountered  a  large  deer 
with  four  fawns.  The  deer  was  killed  by  the  first  shot.  The 
report  of  the  gun  greatly  alarmed  the  fawns,,  and  they  strove 
hard  to  get  out  of  our  reach,  but  we  soon  had  all  of  them 
down.  Here  we  separated,  each  man  taking  a  different 
route,  and  I  went  up  the  main  canyon  to  where  it  widened 
to  its  greatest  breadth.  I  reached  the  top  of  a  hill  that 
looked  down  into  a  quaking-asp  thicket  and  commenced 
rolling  stones  into  it.  This  had  the  desired  effect,  a  crashing 
noise  was  heard,  and  out  came  ten  deer,  their  eyes  distended 
with  fright.  I  leveled  my  gun  at  the  largest.  He  gave  a 
few  jumps  up  hill  and  fell  dead.  I  then  shot  another  large 
doe.  By  this  time  they  saw  where  I  was,  and  ran  from,  in- 
stead of  toward,  me,  but  I  kept  on  shooting  until  I  had  killed 
two  more  and  wounded  another.    I  was  so  completely  satis- 


208  '  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

fied  with  sport  that  I  did  not  follow  the  other  deer  any 
farther,  but  contentedly  cared  for  the  meat.  When  I  told 
Mike  what  I  had  done,  he  rolled  up  his  eyes  and  exclaimed : 

'*I  never  knew  you  could  shoot  at  all.  I  don't  believe 
half  you  have  said.     Give  it  to  me  light." 

I  finally  persuaded  him  to  go  with  me,  taking  with  us 
two  mules  and  an  ax  to  cut  a  good  road.  He  called  one  of 
the  mules  Jack,  the  other  Antelope.  We  gathered  up  the 
game,  packed  it  on  Jack  and  Antelope,  and  started  back, 
Mike  leading  the  way  and  I  following.  When  we  reached 
a  steep  bank  where  the  trail  was  very  narrow,,  the  mules  be- 
gan to  crowd,  and  in  other  ways  to  exhibit  their  mulish  na- 
ture, until  Antelope  lost  his  footing  and  fell  into  the  water 
on  his  back. 

Mike  warmed  the  old  fellow  up  with  a  brush  vigorous- 
ly applied;  but  Antelope  was  too  heavily  loaded  to  get  up 
without  assistance.  We  relieved  him  of  his  load,  finally 
pulling  him  out  of  the  water,  but  we  had  a  hard  trip  to 
camp,  tearing  through  thorns  and  beaver-dams.  There  were 
now  sixteen  deer  dressed  and  ready  to  be  taken  home. 

When  I  awoke  the  next  morning,  a  large  deer  was 
standing  above  the  camp  looking  down  upon  us.  The  re- 
port of  a  shot  from  my  rifle  set  the  camp  in  an  uproar.  The 
deer  came  crashing  toward  us,  and  fell  dead  within  fifty 
yards  of  camp.  After  a  splendid  breakfast,  we  packed  our 
venison  and  separated,  Mike  and  I  going  to  Custer,  Frank 
and  Danford  to  their  homes  on  Canyon  Creek, 

Traveling  along  beneath  the  broiling  sun,  Mike  and  I 
became  very  thirsty,  and  our  mules  were  also  suffering  for  a 
cooling  draught,  when  we  noticed  some  bushes  and  found 
that  they  fringed  the  banks  of  a  little  rivulet.  With  cries 
which  rivaled  the  demonstrations  made  by  the  children  of 
Israel  in  the  wilderness  under  similar  circumstances,   we 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  20g 

were  joyfully  approaching  the  stream  when  we  saw  a  fawn's 
head  rise  above  the  grass.  I  leaped  from  my  saddle,  but 
Mike  forestalled  me,  and  sent  a  ball  crashing  through  the 
animal's  heart  just  as  it  rose  to  its  feet.  Another  deer 
jumped  from  the  grass,  and  I  shot  it  through  the  neck. 
Then  we  all  drank  from  the  stream  until  our  thirst  was 
sated.  Afterward  we  journeyed  on  through  the  Bad  Lands, 
over  hills  and  streams,  frequently  running  on  to  game  for 
which  we  had  no  use,  as  we  lacked  the  means  for  its  trans- 
portation. 

After  dark  we  struck  our  old  camp  on  Bovia  Creek, 
where  the  coyotes,  which  had  been  following  us  for  miles, 
were  joined  by  others,  and  the  band  set  up  such  a  howling 
that  we  could  not  hear  each  other  talk.  After  they  had 
quieted  down,  wolves  took  up  the  refrain,  which  was  kept 
up  until  far  into  the  night.  Next  morning  we  found  them 
still  lingering  near  and  gave  a  chase,  killing  four  of  the 
whelps,  just  to  get  satisfaction  for  the  loss  of  sleep  we  had 
sustained. 

After  we  had  moved  out,  from  the  top  of  a  little  knoll 
we  saw  as  many  as  twenty  more  of  the  beasts.  I  fired  into 
the  mob,  and  such  squalling  and  scattering  as  there  was 
there  I  have  seldom  seen.  They  went  like  feathers  before  a 
gale. 

We  met  a  party  of  twenty  Indians,  and  had  quite  a 
conversation  with  them  about  hunting,  killing  bears  and 
shooting  other  wild  animals.  They  give  bears,  lions  and  rat- 
tlesnakes a  wide  berth.  When  we  arrived  at  Custer  we  pre- 
sented one  of  the  finest  of  the  fawns  to  Captain  Fowler, 
and  the  other  deer  were  distributed  among  the  people. 

Three  weeks  later  I  received  an  invitation  to  go  on  a 
fishing  excursion  on  the  upper  Big  Horn,  which  I  was  not 
slow  in  accepting,  and,  in  two  days'  time,  our  party  was 
catching  whitefish  by  the  dozen. 


210  ADVENTURES   OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

One  morning  I  took  a  good  saddle-horse  and  started  up 
the  mountain,  determined  to  have  some  sport  of  a  more 
exciting  nature.  An  old  wagon  track  took  me  into  a  thickly 
wooded  gulch,  and  I  soon  found  myself  surrounded  by  such 
a  mass  of  rugged  rocks  that  I  could  go  no  farther,  so  I 
turned  back  to  find  a  trail  that  would  lead  up  the  mountain. 
Three  times  I  attempted  to  ascend  the  broken  ledge  of  rocks 
which  overhung  the  pine  trees.  At  length  I  saw  a  large 
elk's  trail  which  wound  around  the  mountain,  like  a  huge 
serpent,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  see.  I  led  my  pony  slowly 
up  this  steep  and  rugged  road,  until  the  valley  below  looked 
like  a  mere  speck,  the  winding  river  glittered  like  a  silver 
thread,  and  the  green  trees  looked  no  taller  than  blades  of 
grass. 

From  the  top  of  the  mountain  I  beheld  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains in  the  west,  the  Crazys  to  the  north  and  the  long  saw- 
tooth ranges  of  the  Big  Horn  in  the  south.  Deep  down  in 
the  canyon  of  the  Big  Horn  mountains  the  waters,  which 
had  fallen  thousands  of  feet,  rolled  over  huge  rocks,  and  the 
foam  and  white  caps  showed  what  a  struggle  was  going  on 
between  the  boulders  and  the  rushing  tide.  So  far  was  I 
above  the  mighty  conflict  that  only  a  dull,  low  roar  reached 
my  ears. 

I  gathered  some  stones  and  hurled  them  into  the  chasm. 
Not  a  sound  arose  from  its  depths,  and  mountain  sheep 
standing  near  the  water's  edge  paid  no  attention.  Far  be- 
low in  a  clump  of  cherry  bushes  were  five  deer,  gathering 
and  eating  the  ripe  fruit,  while  several  bands  of  elk  were 
idly  wandering,  all  unconscious  of  danger.  While  viewing 
the  scene  in  all  its  beauty,  the  desire  to  shoot  something 
became  so  strong  that  I  could  not  resist  the  impulse,  and  I 
pulled  trigger  on  a  large  sheep,  which  stood  upon  a  rock 
fully  one  thousand  feet  below  me  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  river. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  211 

I  saw  no  sign  that  the  ball  had  struck  the  ground,  neith- 
er did  the  sheep  stir.  I  tried  again  with  like  results.  I 
then  raised  the  rear  sight  to  one  thousand  yards  and  the  ball 
struck  within  thirty  feet  of  him.  When  the  sight  was  raised 
to  eleven  hundred  yards  the  bullet  landed  directly  under  his 
body,  causing  him  to  leap  from  the  rock.  I  made  several 
further  attempts  simply  as  experiments,  for  I  could  not  have 
reached  the  sheep  had  I  killed  him. 

I  prepared  and  ate  a  lunch,  then  followed  the  canyon 
about  five  miles  up  the  main  range,  whence,  with  a  good  pair 
of  glasses  I  could  see  a  large  part  of  Wyoming  and  Idaho. 
Suddenly  a  sharp  peal  of  thunder  warned  me  that  a  storm 
was  brewing.  The  heavens  above  were  as  clear  as  a  bell, 
but  far  in  the  distance  dark  clouds  were  rising,,  while  the 
lightning  was  shooting  its  forked  shafts  in  every  direction. 
The  clouds  came  rolling  along  the  sides  of  the  mountains, 
apparently  swallowing  up  everything  in  their  path,  a  violent 
gust  of  wind  sweeping  wildly  before  them..  No  need  now  to 
wonder  where  the  storm  was  coming  from,  nor  where  it 
would  spend  its  fury.  Trees  were  torn  up  by  the  roots  and 
hurled  into  the  canyon  below,  and  game  fled  in  all  directions 
to  places  of  safety. 

Protected  from  the  storm  by  a  huge  rock,  I  looked 
calmly  upon  the  scene  of  destruction.  A  band  of  sheep, 
leaping  from  rock  to  rock,  came  directly  toward  me  and  I 
shot  at  one  but  the  gale  befriended  it.  The  mountains  ap- 
peared to  be  on  fire,  so  vivid  and  continuous  was  the  light- 
ning. I  would  that  I  could  portray  the  grandeur  of  the  spec- 
tacle, which  will  ever  remain  stamped  upon  my  memory. 
The  storm  having  spent  itself,  I  picketed  my  horse  and  lay 
down  to  rest,  for  it  would  have  been  impossible  to  have 
found  my  way  to  camp  through  the  darkness,  and  the  great- 
er part  of  the  night  was  passed  in  watching  the  lightning 
playing  through  the  heavens. 


212  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

When  I  awoke  the  clouds  had  gathered  thicker  than  on 
the  evening  before,  while  a  dense  fog  covered  the  moun- 
tains. I  began  retracing  my  way,  but  could  make  little  head- 
way, frequently  running  nearly  into  game  that  would 
climb  the  rocks  with  a  terrible  noise.  When  almost  ready 
to  give  up  and  camp  where  I  was,  until  I  should  be  able  to 
see  my  way,  to  my  great  joy  the  darkness  and  fog  gave  way 
to  a  burst  of  sunshine,  and  I  soon  found  myself  again  in 
the  valley. 

The  boys  had  suffered  much  anxiety  on  my  account 
and  welcomed  me  back  to  camp.  The  evening  was  passed  in 
my  relating  an  account  of  the  storm  in  the  mountains.  Long 
strings  of  trout  garnished  our  camp,  so  I  had  no  need  to 
ask  what  their  success  had  been  during  my  absence.  After 
dinner  the  next  day  we  pulled  out,,  each  man  having  gained 
some  fresh  experience,  which  could  not  fail  to  interest  the 
folks  at  home. 

Winter  was  almost  over  and  the  genial  rays  of  the  sun 
fell  upon  the  earth,  giving  promise  of  delightful  days  to 
come.  The  white  sides  of  the  antelopes  rendered  them  ev- 
erywhere conspicuous,  as  they  lazily  passed  to  and  fro,  nip- 
ping the  wild  sage.  A  few  scattering  flocks  of  wild  geese 
were  to  be  seen  against  the  blue  sky.  Their  "honk,  honk," 
alone  broke  the  quiet,  which  to  me  seemed  almost  over- 
powering, as  the  little  "jerkey,'  loaded  with  United  States 
mail,  the  driver  and  myself,  hastened  to  the  next  station 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  This  station  (a  mere  hole 
in  the  ground)  was  kept  by  Old  Major,  as  everyone  called 
him.  We  knew  no  other  name  for  the  man,  nor  did  we 
know  anything  of  his  history,  excepting  that  he  had  earned 
his  title  in  the  volunteer  service  and  had  been  discharged 
for  drunkenness. 

We  were  trying  hard  to  reach  the  station  in  time  for 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  213 

dinner  but  could  not,  as  we  had  to  cross  the  river,  which 
showed  signs  of  breaking  up,  the  ice  being  open  in  several 
places.  About  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  reached 
the  crossing  place,  near  Pompey's  Pillar,  and  found  the  Ma- 
jor out  looking  for  a  safe  place  for  us  to  cross.  I  held  the 
team  while  the  Major  and  the  driver  surveyed  the  ice  with 
troubled  looks. 

"Come  right  away  here ;  I  find  a  place  vot  is  shust  as 
goot  as  never  vas !"  called  out  the  Major. 

"Be  careful !"  I  said ;  ^'don't  get  so  close  to  that  air  hole 
or  you  will  get  your  clothes  wet." 

*'Oh  no,  I  vill  not,  it  ist  youst  as  stout  as  any  poddy. 
Come  right  here ;  mind  the  bonies  und  you  go  quick  across." 

Just  then  the  Major  sank  through  the  soft  ice.  The  cur- 
rent was  about  to  take  him  under  when  he  stuck  up  one  of  his 
legs,  caught  on  the  ice  and  held  himself  there  until  we  pulled 
him  out.  The  old  man  was  nearly  gone  and  the  water  ran 
out  of  his  mouth,  while  he  staggered  like  a  drunken  man. 
He  went  home  to  change  his  wet  garments  and  we  finally 
succeeded  in  crossing,  a  short  distance  above. 

Major,,  none  the  worse  for  his  bath,  was  busy  preparing 
supper  as  we  drove  up.  He  had  boiled  the  ham  of  a  buffalo 
calf  for  two  days,  over  an  old  kiln  which  he  had  made  out- 
side the  dugout,  until  it  resembled  soup.  He  told  us  that  the 
fresh  team  we  expected  to  find  awaiting  us  had  broken  loose, 
and  had  been  gone  all  day.  He  had  gone  after  the  horses 
but  had  only  seen  some  large  wild  animals. 

Frank  started  out  to  find  the  missing  team,  and  by  dint 
of  much  questioning,  I  drew  out  the  old  man  and  made  him 
confess  that  he  had  not  been  after  the  horses  at  all,  but  had 
seen  the  yellow  dogs  from  a  little  knoll  just  above  his  house. 
I  tried  to  persuade  him  to  show  me  where  they  made  their 
appearance  but  he  would  not  move  an  inch.    He  indicated  a 


214  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

certain  point  of  rocks  and  said  they  had  a  den  there.  I  started 
to  look  for  the  horses  in  another  direction  and  soon  found 
them  in  a  large  ravine. 

Coming  back  by  the  point  of  rocks  mentioned,  I  saw 
about  half  of  the  carcass  of  a  deer  lying  near,  which  led  me 
to  make  a  closer  investigation.  Next  I  found  a  large  moun- 
tain ram,  to  all  appearance  just  killed,  with  its  heart  eaten 
out.  A  large  opening  strewn  with  bones  was  in  the  rocks 
and  these  indications  plainly  proved  the  nature  of  the  yellow 
dogs  seen  there.  I  sat  down  under  a  fir  tree,  upon  a  large 
rock,  waiting  until  some  of  the  animals  should  make  their 
appearance. 

Sleep  had  almost  overpowered  me  when  a  low  roar 
called  me  to  my  senses.  I  looked  around  and  on  the  rocks, 
one  hundred  feet  above  me,  was  a  yellow  dog,  in  the  shape 
of  the  largest  female  lion  I  had  ever  seen.  She  was  crouched 
upon  a  shelf,  from  which  she  had  been  watching  me  for  I 
know  not  how  long.  Her  low  cry  had  the  desired  effect, 
for  in  a  moment  two  others,,  both  males,  appeared  at  her  side. 
They  seemed  to  feel  that  danger  was  at  hand,  for  they  lashed 
their  tails  from  one  side  to  the  other,  apparently  holding 
council. 

I  was  filled  with  the  desire  to  slay  these  three  beasts. 
I  filled  the  magazine  of  my  Winchester,  took  a  careful  view 
oi  the  surroundings,  and  singled  out  one  of  the  males,  as  he 
stood  broadside  to  me,  writhing  his  tail  like  a  serpent.  I 
drew  a  bead  on  his  heart  and  fired.  With  a  fearful  bound 
he  came  down  head  first,  uttering  terrible  howls  and  cries, 
and  landed  within  fifty  feet  of  where  I  stood.  He  raised 
himself  for  a  leap,  but  a  shot  just  under  the  right  eye  set- 
tled him  forever.  The  others  sneaked  into  a  large  hole  on 
the  top  of  the  ledge. 

Quiet  being  restored,  a  young  lion  thought  it  safe  to 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  21 5 

venture  out  of  the  den  at  the  foot  of  the  rocks,  to  see  what 
had  happened.  This  one  did  resemble  a  yellow  dog  and  I 
laughed  aloud  as  I  recalled  the  Major's  description.  I  shot 
him  fairly  between  the  eyes  and  one  ball  was  sufficient. 
Again  I  sat  down  and  waited.  All  was  still,  so  I  got  up  and 
looked  around,  taking  care  not  to  get  too  close  while  the 
fierce  old  female  still  lived.  No  more  lions  appeared,,  but 
fresh  proofs  of  their  destructive  powers  met  my  eyes. 

When  I  returned,  I  found  a  large  herd  of  buffaloes 
drinking  within  one  hundred  yards  of  the  Major's  dugout. 
I  shot  a  fine  two-year-old,  which  gave  a  plunge  forward, 
stood  still  a  moment,  then  began  to  stagger  and  fell  dead. 
Major  was  in  ecstacies  at  the  prospect  of  so  much  meat.  The 
herd  crossed  the  river  and  disappeared  at  once.  Major  was 
soon  cutting  and  carving  away  at  his  buffalo,  and  such  a  mess 
of  blood,,  hairs  and  dirt  as  he  presented  I  never  saw  before. 
I  finally  took  pity  on  him  and  helped  him  cut  away  the  hams, 
telling  him  at  the  same  time  all  about  my  sport  with  his  yel- 
low dogs.  He  was  anxious  to  see  them  but  refused  to  ac- 
company me  to  the  spot,  his  fear  and  dread  being  too  great. 

Having  nothing  particular  to  do  only  to  follow  my  in- 
clinations, I  determined  to  revisit  the  den  and  wait  for 
further  developments.  I  seated  myself  on  the  same  rock  I 
had  before  occupied,  straining  my  eyes  in  a  vain  effort  to 
penetrate  the  darkness  that  filled  the  entrance  of  this  den  of 
wild  beasts.  Soon  a  young  lion  stalked  forth,  viewing  the 
surroundings  with  a  suspicious  air,  but  I  restrained  the  im- 
pulse to  shoot  as  I  was  anxious  to  secure  the  old  one.  A 
slight  noise,  directly  behind  and  below  me,  called  my  atten- 
tion and  there  was  the  old  female  within  thirty  feet  of  me. 
She  was  in  a  crouching  position,  her  ears  lying  close  to  her 
neck,  her  long,  slim  tail  moving  from  side  to  side  in  a 
threatening  manner. 


2l6  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

She  had  no  hostile  intentions  at  that  moment,  but  was 
getting  ready  to  leap  into  a  tree,  and  from  that  point  of 
vantage  to  avoid  open  war  if  possible.  I  aimed  to  give  her 
a  ball  between  the  eyes,  and,  when  the  crack  of  my  rifle  broke 
the  silence,  I  heard  a  thud,  and  could  see  that  she  had 
sprung  toward  the  tree,  but  had  not  been  able  to  reach  the 
coveted  position.  Through  the  smoke  I  gave  her  another 
hasty  shot  which  broke  her  back,  but  did  not  deter  her  from 
making  a  desperate  effort  to  reach  me. 

I  found  a  long  stick  and  thrust  it  into  her  mouth,  and 
chewing  it  into  fragments  seemed  to  afford  some  relief  to 
her  wrath.  I  then  sought  for  the  young  lion  but  he  had  taken 
warning  and  was  not  to  be  seen.  Now  that  I  had  nothing  to 
fear  from  the  female,  I  approached  the  den  boldly.  It 
seemed  to  consist  of  two  compartments.  The  one  above  be- 
ing a  watching-place  or  lookout,  while  the  lower  served  for 
a  home  or  resting  place,  and  was  strewn  with  bones  of  all 
kinds,  which  were  sickening  to  behold. 

The  old  Major  was  delighted  when  I  related  to  him  my 
adventure.     He  said  he  was  so  much  afraid  of  the  animals 
he  could  scarcely  get  any  sleep  at  night,  that  they  sometimes 
roared  in  a  manner  that  made  him  tremble  in  his  boots,  and . 
he  would  be  glad  to  know  they  were  all  killed. 

Toward  evening  I  set  out  once  more  and  this  time  pre- 
vailed upon  the  Major  to  accompany  me.  We  made  our  way 
very  carefully  toward  the  fir  tree  near  which  the  three  lions 
lay  dead.  When  the  Major  saw  them  his  eyes  were  dis- 
tended until  they  resembled  full  moons,  and  he  showed  a 
disposition  to  take  to  his  heels.  We  had  not  been  there  long 
before  the  young  lion  appeared  and  the  old  man  yelled  out 
at  the  top  of  his  voice.  The  aroused  lion  started  to  run,  but 
a  ball  from  my  rifle  caught  him  in  the  hip,  causing  a  deep 
roar  of  pain. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  217 

Major  started  up  a  tree,  as  lively  as  a  cat,  not  remem- 
bering that  the  lion  could  climb  too.  I  fired  at  the  animal 
again  as  it  was  entering  the  den,  but  think  I  overshot.  We 
now  made  a  general  survey  of  the  field  of  carnage,  congrat- 
ulating ourselves  upon  the  good  work  done.  We  poisoned 
the  carcasses  of  a  large  sheep  and  of  a  deer  for  the  benefit 
-of  the  survivors,  if  there  were  any,  and  left  the  point  of 
rocks  untenanted  by  its  former  bloodthirsty  inhabitants. 

As  I  had  a  week  in  which  to  reach  the  point  for  which  I 
had  started,  I  was  in  no  hurry  to  leave  the  game,  which  was 
plentiful  here,  or  the  Major,  who  was  a  capital  story  teller. 
His  stories  were  mostly  of  incidents  connected  with  his  own 
life,  which  had  been  strange  and  eventful.  About  seven 
o'clock  that  night,  the  little  "jerkey,"  which  was  to  bear  me 
on  my  journey,  came  rattling  up  to  the  door.  We  passed 
a  very  pleasant  evening  together,  the  Major  giving  the  driver 
a  full  account  of  our  victory  over  the  yellow  dogs.  Early  the 
next  morning  we  started  out  on  our  further  way.  The  river 
bottoms  were  covered  with  buffaloes  and  antelopes,  and  the 
country  v/as  appropriately  termed  the  "Indian's  paradise." 
After  a  hard  day's  drive,  swimming  streams,  etc.,  we  arrived, 
completely  exhausted  at  the  old  camp  below„  where  Miles 
Citv  now  stands. 


2l8  ADVENTURES   OF  DR.   ALLEN. 


CHAPTER  XX. 


Buffalo  v.  Bear — A  Strange  Contest. 

Once  as  I  was  returning  from  a  trip  to  some  mines,  or 
supposed  mines  (which  had  been  reported  rich  in  gold,  but 
upon  examination  had  proved  to  be  worthless),  and  was 
crossing  a  low  range  in  the  big  mountains  west  of  Rotten 
Grass,  my  almost  exhausted  pony  suddenly  recovered  his 
animation  and  sniffed  the  air  repeatedly.  Being  very  much 
fatigued,  I  gave  no  heed  to  his  demonstrations,  but  pushed 
on  a  few  steps  farther,  where  a  clear,  running  spring  invited 
me  to  dismount.  Soon  both  horse  and  rider  were  eagerly 
drinking  from  the  same  fountain.  I  fastened  the  pony  with 
a  lariat,  removed  the  saddle  from  his  tired  back  and  left  him 
cropping  the  rich  bunch  grass  with  evident  relish,  while  I 
began  to  prepare  my  own  repast. 

Soon  I  heard  a  snorting,  and,  hastening  toward  my 
pony,  found  the  former  strange  behavior  repeated  with  an 
increased  energy  and  a  great  show  of  fear.  I  looked  around, 
could  see  nothing,  so  I  returned  and  finished  my  meal,  took 
a  bath  in  the  water  and  was  looking  over  my  small  pack, 
when  my  pony  again  ran  toward  me  in  great  fright.  I  then 
took  my  rifle  and  walked  rapidly  in  the  direction  whence  his 
look  said  he  apprehended  danger,  and  about  four  hundred 
yards  away  I  saw  a  dozen  buffaloes,  quietly  grazing  near 
some  quaking  asps. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  219 

I  crept  Up  as  close  as  I  could  without  disturbing  them, 
and  had  selected  a  fat  calf  for  my  victim,  when  a  full-grown 
bull  came  tearing  out  of  the  bushes  and  ran  toward  the  herd. 
I  did  not  know  how  to  account  for  this  strange  freak,  and  I 
saw  him  looking  in  the  direction  from  which  he  came,  shak- 
ing his  ponderous  head  in  an  angry  manner.  Only  a  short 
time  was  given  me  to  wonder  what  would  happen  next,  when 
a  full-sized  grizzly  bounded  out  after  the  bull  and  rushed 
toward  the  herd. 

The  cows  began  to  form  a  circle,  while  the  calves  were 
rushing  wildly  around.  The  latter  were  quickly  surrounded 
by  the  cows,  thus  keeping  the  little  fellows  on  the  inside,  as 
is  the  custom  of  the  buffaloes  when  danger  threatens.  The 
bull  took  up  his  position  in  the  rear,  with  a  manner  which  in- 
dicated his  determination  to  protect  the  females  and  their 
young,  with  his  life  if  necessary.  It  was  soon  evident  that 
some  of  the  herd  would  become  a  meal  for  his  bearship,  un- 
less they  acted  immediately  in  their  own  defense. 

The  bull  saw  just  how  matters  stood,  and,  when  the  bear 
was  almost  at  his  heels,  turned  swiftly  and  met  bruin  as  a 
mountain  ram  meets  his  antagonist.  They  came  together 
with  a  thud,  which  fairly  stunned  them  both,  and  they  re- 
bounded from  the  concussion  like  balls,  and  paused  for  an  in- 
stant to  recover  from  the  shock.  The  bear  then  made  a  fresh 
start  for  the  herd,  but  was  again  confronted  by  the  bull. 

The  bear  seemed  to  understand  fully  the  motives  which 
actuated  his  opponent,  so  he  raised  upon  his  haunches,  and 
prepared  to  do  battle  with  the  bull,  before  he  made  another 
attempt  to  secure  a  fresh  young  calf.  At  that  moment  the 
bull  lowered  his  head,  shot  forward  with  his  tail  standing 
straight  in  the  air,  and  struck  the  bear  full  in  the  stomach. 
The  bear  in  turn  caught  him  around  the  neck  and  proceeded 
to  tear  the  flesh  from  his  shoulders,  while  the  bull  gave  the 


220  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

grizzly  some  terrible  wounds  with  his  horns,  and  he  finally 
made  a  desperate  charge  which  compelled  the  bear  to  relin- 
quish his  hold,,  when  the  buffalo  ran  over  his  body  and  at- 
tempted to  join  the  herd. 

Wild  with  the  rage,  the  bear  quickly  regained  his  foot- 
ing, pursued  and  overtook  the  bull,  who  then  turned  like  a 
flash  and  gave  him  another  charge.  This  time  bruin  sprang 
upon  the  buffalo's  back,  and  fastened  his  claws  and  teeth  in 
the  great  fellow's  flesh,  a  surprise  for  which  the  bull  was  not 
prepared.  But  he  was  equal  to  the  situation  and  showed  no 
small  skill  as  an  imitator  of  the  bronco  bucker.  The  buffalo 
plunged  first  one  way,  then  the  other,  while  the  bear  held  on 
with  a  death-like  grip,  until  it  also  was  surprised  by  the 
bull's  turning  a  complete  somersault.  Before  the  bear  could 
recover  the  bull  was  upon  it  with  his  feet,  and  buried  his 
horns  deep  in  its  shoulder.  The  bear  then  dealt  the  bison 
a  blow  with  its  paw,  which  sounded  far  off  and  made  the 
bull  shake  his  head  with  pain. 

All  this  time  the  herd  stood  awaiting  orders  from  their 
leader,  and,  whenever  there  was  a  lull  in  the  battle,  he 
glanced  anxiously  toward  them.  The  bear  was  now  deeply 
wounded  in  the  shoulder.  The  bull  was  fearfully  mangled 
about  the  neck.  The  blood  flowed  freely  from  both,  while 
great  bunches  of  hair  were  scattered  in  every  direction.  The 
bear  now  made  a  leap  for  the  bull's  back,  but  was  caught  be- 
tween the  fore-legs  on  the  horns  of  the  latter  and  received 
a  terrible  wound.  It  was  then  thrown  upon  its  back  and 
the  bull  plunged  over  it,  goring  it  the  while  with  his  sharp 
horns. 

The  bear  seized  the  opportunity  to  catch  its  enemy  in 
the  flank,  tearing  off  a  great  mouthful  of  hide,,  but  the  bull 
turned  and  jumped  upon  it  with  both  fore-feet  and  gave  the 
animal  another  wound.    The  bear  then  caught  his  antagonist 


^^^^^^I^^BP-'            ^M    wm     1 

'      l^^H 

^^^^H 

J 

TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  223 

by  the  back  of  the  neck  and  they  rolled  over  together.  They 
were  now  in  the  wildest  state  of  excitement,  both  suffering 
severe  pain,  each  looking  like  a  great  mass  of  animated  sand 
and  blood.  They  started  apart  and  stood  within  twenty  feet 
of  each  other,  panting  like  race-horses.  The  bear's  mouth 
was  full  of  hair  and  blood,  while  the  bull's  horns  were  red 
with  gore  for  more  than  half  their  length,  showing  how 
deeply  they  had  penetrated  the  body  of  the  bear. 

They  stood  apart  but  a  few  moments.  The  bull  kept 
glancing  toward  his  little  family,  while  the  bear  approached 
one  step  at  a  time  and  raised  itself  on  its  hind  legs,  prepar- 
ing to  renew  the  conflict.  I  could  hardly  keep  myself  from 
sending  a  ball  through  the  bear's  worthless  body,  for  I 
found  myself  in  sympathy  with  the  bull  from  the  first,  but  I 
was  curious  to  see  how  the  affair  would  terminate.  The  bat- 
tle had  carried  them  closer  and  closer  to  the  herd,  and  a 
two-year-old  bull,  seeing  how  matters  stood  with  his  de- 
fender, and  burning  with  the  desire  to  test  his  own  strength, 
came  upon  the  scene,  pawed  the  ground,  bowed  his  back,  and 
rushed  upon  the  bear  with  all  his  force,,  but  was  repulsed 
with  a  blow  on  the  side  of  his  head  that  turned  him  half- 
way round. 

His  old  friend  was  close  at  hand,  however,  and  taking 
advantage  of  the  situation  gave  the  bear  another  goring. 
The  young  bull  kept  shaking  his  head  the  while.  The  blow 
he  had  received  had  evidently  stunned  him,  but  he  walked  up 
within  a  few  yards  of  the  bear,  turned  himself  sidewise, 
took  a  few  steps,  then  flew  again  at  his  antagonist,  plunged 
his  horns  into  its  bowels,  making  a  gaping  wound  that 
allowed  part  of  the  entrails  to  fall  out.  Maddened  with  pain, 
the  infuriated  bear  caught  him  by  the  hump  with  its  claws, 
and  tore  the  flesh  from  the  back  of  the  youngster's  neck 
with  his  teeth,  leaving  the  bones  bare.    The  little  bull  roared 


224  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

as  though  imploring  mercy,  while  the  old  one  came  again 
to  his  rescue  and  struck  bruin  a  heavy  blow  in  the  back. 

I  now  began  to  feel  sorry  for  the  grizzly,,  as  he  could  no 
longer  raise  himself  upon  his  haunches,  and  so  I  gave  the 
old  bull  a  shot  through  the  heart,  just  as  he  was  making 
another  charge  upon  his  fallen  foe.  The  bear  paid  no  atten- 
tion to  the  shot,  but  seemed  determined  to  have  satisfaction 
out  of  his  remaining  enemy,  though  the  young  bull  seemed 
willing  to  give  up  the  struggle  and  depart  in  peace,  taking 
warning  perhaps  from  the  fate  of  his  friend. 

Picking  himself  up  as  best  he  could,  bruin  made  another 
attack,  dealing  the  young  buffalo  a  blow  on  the  top  of  its 
head  which  staggered  it.  The  bear  now  lay  upon  his  back 
a  mass  of  gore,  evidently  dying,  and  the  bull  had  received 
a  blow  from  which  he  could  not  recover.  I  then  walked 
up  close  to  them,  and  out  of  sympathy  shot  the  bear  through 
the  brain.  The  bull  was  still  standing,  throwing  his  head  up 
and  down,  the  blood  pouring  from  his  nose  and  ears,  so  I 
released  him  from  an  existence  which  had  certainly  become 
unendurable,  and  saw  him  stagger  and  fall  over  the  body  of 
the  bear. 

This  was  one  of  the  bloodiest  battles  between  animals 
I  have  ever  witnessed,  and  was  maintained  on  both  sides 
with  equal  courage  and  determination.  The  combatants  had 
fought  with  all  the  strength  and  ferocity  of  their  savage 
natures.  "He  who  fights  and  runs  away  may  live  to  fight 
another  day."  Animals  seldom  possess  this  element  of  cow- 
ardice when  contending  for  their  rights,  or  when  satisfying 
the  demands  of  appetite.  I  stood  looking  upon  the  remains 
until  my  heart  grew  sick  within  me,  then  mounted  my  faith- 
ful pony,  and  was  soon  flying  down  the  valley. 

At  nightfall  I  drew  rein  near  the  spot  where  Fort  Smith 
used  to  stand,  refreshed  myself  with  a  few  mouthfuls  of  sup- 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  225 

per,  and  turned  in  on  my  saddle  blankets  for  the  night,  under 
the  sheltering  boughs  of  a  large  cottonwood.  The  roar  of 
the  waters,  the  rustling  of  leaves,  the  cries  of  coyotes  and  the 
howling  of  wolves,  robbed  me  of  sleep  and  made  me  feel  that 
the  infernal  regions  could  not  be  very  far  off.  I  fired  two 
or  three  shots  in  a  vain  attempt  to  frighten  the  brutes  into 
silence,  then  built  a  fire  and  lay  down  to  rest  but  not  to 
sleep.  I  reached  Fort  Custer  by  noon  the  next  day,  hav- 
ing had  no  adventure  worth  relating,  save  the  battle  I  had 
witnessed. 


226  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 


The  American  Gazelle. — A  Last  Battle. 

The  family  of  fan-tail  deer  (gazella  dorcas)  which  once 
inhabited  the  great  Northwest,  and  the  whole  Rocky  Moun- 
tain region,  has  gradually  disappeared,  and  to-day  there  is 
scarcely  a  vestige  left  to  remind  one  of  the  little  groups 
that  were  seen  so  frequently,  twenty  years  ago,  along  the 
streams  and  in  the  foothills.  Little  has  been  written  about 
them,  but  careful  observers  have  found  some  of  the  skeletons 
and  tiny  horns,  which,  in  many  instances,  have  passed  for 
those  of  small  white-tail  deer. 

But  old-timers,  who  were  more  intimately  acquainted 
with  them,  and  who  have  often  seen  them  in  the  far-off 
jungles  where  they  retired  to  raise  their  young,  cannot  be  so 
mistaken.  There,  away  from  the  lion  and  other  enemies, 
was  the  nursery  for  the  gazelles,  of  whose  large  brown  eyes 
the  poets  love  to  sing.  Such  haunts  are  unapproachable  to 
animals  of  prey  without  giving  sufficient  warning  to  the 
mother,  whose  eyes  and  ears  are  ever  alert. 

These  deer  or  gazelles,  resemble  in  color  the  white-tail, 
or  Virginia  deer,  turning  from  brownish  gray  in  winter  to  a 
reddish  brown  in  summer.  Their  stomachs  and  throats  are 
white,  and  they  are  from  two  to  two  and  one-half  feet  high  at 
the  shoulders.  The  tail  is  almost  eighteen  inches  in  length, 
and  when  erect  and  spread  out,  it  is  nearly  six  inches  wide 
and  resembles  a  large  fan.   When  running  slowly,  they  twist 


HORNS  OF  FAN-TAILED  DEER  (GAZELLE). 
Now  Extinct. 


AN  OTTER  FISHING. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  229 

their  tails  from  side  to  side  nervously,  and  keep  looking  back 
on  the  trail.  But,  when  once  satisfied  of  real  danger,  they 
are  considered  almost  the  fleetest  animals  to  be  found  in  the 
mountains. 

At  times,  they  range  along  the  streams  with  the  white- 
tail  deer  and  again  they  are  in  the  mountains,  with  those  of 
the  black-tail  family.  The  young  have  white  spots  along  their 
sides  and  little  black  or  brown  spots  on  their  throats,  which 
disappear  when  they  are  grown.  The  males  have  tiny  horns 
like  the  white-tail  deer,  with  one  curved  antler.  The  points 
grow  out  of  this  main  antler  and  stand  up  straight.  The 
two  main  beams  incline  together,  but  never  fork,  as  do  those 
of  the  black-tail  deer. 

The  hoof  is  broad  at  the  heel,  quite  pointed  at  the  toe. 
The  head  of  the  female  is  almost  like  that  of  a  fox,,  broad  at 
the  ears,  tapering  to  a  sharp  point  at  the  nose.  I  doubt  very 
much  if  one  were  ever  killed  by  a  sportsman  after  looking 
into  its  pleading  eyes,  so  full  of  tender  emotion,  and  of  that 
magnetic  charm,  known  only  to  those  who  have  often  met 
wild  animals  on  mountain  and  plain. 

With  the  vanishing  buffalo  went  also  the  beautiful 
gazelle,  and  to-day  the  grandeur  of  mountain  and  valley  is 
bereft  of  their  charming  presence,  leaving  a  lack  which  can- 
not be  supplied.  Even  the  few  sad  relics  of  bones  and  horns 
will  soon  have  reverted  to  the  earth,  whence  they  sprang. 

On  the  bank  of  the  Seven  Blackfoot,  which  extends 
between  the  Musselshell  and  the  Missouri  rivers,  lies  a 
country  as  wild  now  as  when  its  savage  tribes  joined  there 
in  scalp  dances  in  the  seventeenth  century.  The  country  was 
shattered  by  volcanic  eruptions  long  before  the  advent  of  the 
savages,  at  the  time  when  the  mastodon  roamed  this  un- 
known region,  and  where  bisons,  mountain  sheep,  bears,  cou- 
gars, deer,  and  elks  still  stalk  abroad.     Natural  pyramids 


230  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

of  ghostly  form  there  stand  Hke  sentinels  of  the  night,,  like 
armies  prepared  for  battle. 

In  those  wilds  a  contest,  a  last  battle,  once  took  place, 
of  a  kind  which  has  occurred  but  a  few  times  in  the  history 
of  this  country.  Two  bands  of  black-tail  deer  leisurely  ap- 
proached each  other,  the  playful  fawns  racing  and  bounding 
across  the  matted  bunch  grass,  thick  and  heavy  like  a  great 
carpet,  while  two  powerful  masters  approached  each  other 
as  gladiators  of  old.  On  they  came,  the  white  points  of  their 
polished  antlers  glittering  like  blades  of  steel,  stamping  their 
feet  in  rage.  Both  were  large  and  powerful,  and  as  sleek 
as  race  horses.  The  sun  was  low  in  the  Western  sky  and  the 
blue  haze  of  Indian  summer  hung  like  a  fog  over  this  grand 
but  awful  valley  of  death. 

The  bands  had  already  mingled,  but  the  two  great  mas- 
ters were  facing  each  other,  with  bristles  erect.  With  heads 
bent  down  they  crashed  together  as  can  only  two  infuriated 
animals.  All  was  attention,  while  the  brown-eyed  wives 
stood  watching  their  lords,  who  had  always  been  so  victor- 
ious in  battle  with  other  wild  beasts.  Crash  after  crash 
came,  neither  being  the  least  baffled  by  the  other.  Each  was 
watching  for  the  advantage  which  he  never  gained.  Every 
move  was  noted. 

At  the  next  crash,  a  small  point  was  broken  from  an 
antler.  With  foam  dropping  from  their  mouths,  their  eyes 
green  with  rage,,  they  backed  off  farther  than  ever,  and  with 
curved  necks,  straight  as  an  arrow  from  the  bow  they  plunged 
together,  with  a  crash  which  resembled  that  of  a  falling 
tree.  Their  horns  sprung,  and  they  were  locked  in  death  in 
this  wild  valley,  where  no  human  eye  could  pity,  and  where 
no  arm  could  aid,  finally  to  be  eaten  by  wolves,  cougars,  or 
bears.  Perhaps  the  hot  sun  parched  their  tongues  until  they 
lay  down  in  death  on  this,  their  last  battlefield.     We  shall 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  23 1 

never  know,  as  the  only  record  of  the  battle  is  the  deadlock 
horns,  which  were  discovered  and  preserved  and  photo- 
graphed by  the  writer. 


232  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 


CHAPTER  XXll, 


A  Day  Among  the  Clouds. 

Our  route  lay  along  the  foot  of  Cloud  Peak,  and  as  we 
neared  a  beautiful  little  rivulet,  whose  sparkling  waters  told 
of  the  snow  far  up  on  the  mountains,  we  reined  in  our  tired 
horses  and  dismounted  for  the  night.  Our  packs  were  soon 
stored  away,  and  our  horses  eating  the  luxuriant  bunch 
grass.  We  made  our  camp  on  the  edge  of  a  great  windfall 
where  trees  were  piled  together,  so  that  no  creature  of  any 
size  could  pass  over  them. 

Although  the  sun  had  fallen  behind  the  mountain,  we 
could  still  see  the  afterglow.  As  I  gazed  at  this  mountain  of 
earth,  and  upon  the  lakes  and  trees,  I  felt  myself  to  be  an 
infinitesimal  speck  in  the  universe.  The  everlasting  crags 
of  brown  sandstone  stood  out  like  fortresses  against  the  sky 
so  blue  and  clear.  Far  up  these  rugged  heights  I  could  see 
a  great  bald  eagle  hovering  over  its  prey.  Night  was  fast 
approaching,  and  I  had  been  so  charmed  with  the  glory  and 
splendor  of  it  all,  that  I  forgot  my  partner  until  he  sounded 
the  supper  call. 

I  decided  to  lay  over  and  explore  this  wonderful  moun- 
tain, as  there  seemed  to  be  no  end  of  animal  life.  Signs  of 
mountain  sheep,  elks,  bears  and  buffaloes  were  in  evidence, 
and  I  was  sure  there  were  also  cougars  and  deer.  It  was  a 
wonderful  country  for  a  hunter. 

Our  supper  was  soon  over  and  we  picketed  our  horses 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  233 

close  to  camp,  by  making  a  knot  on  our  picket  ropes,  digging 
a  hole  about  a  foot  deep,  burying  the  knot  and  tramping  the 
earth  solid  around  it.  We  made  the  hole  as  small  as  possible 
so  as  not  to  displace  much  earth.  We  were  soon  in  our 
blankets  and  asleep,  but  before  long  our  sleep  was  broken 
by  howls  of  timber  wolves  which  sent  a  shiver  through  us. 

Our  horses  were  frightened  beyond  control,  and,  had 
we  not  soon  lighted  our  fire  and  carefully  guarded  them, 
they  would  have  made  a  supper  for  the  wolves  before  dawn. 
These  great,  gaunt  creatures  congregated  by  dozens,  and  came 
into  plain  sight,  their  eyes  flashing  as  with  fire.  Our  great 
heap  of  pine  logs  and  knots  kept  them  at  a  reasonably  safe 
distance  until  the  gray  began  to  color  the  east,  when  they 
sullenly  and  quietly  slunk  away  to  cover. 

We  were  soon  busy  getting  our  breakfast,  and  while  this 
was  being  prepared,  we  could  hear  the  bugling  of  some  bull 
elks  up  the  mountain.  Presently  we  started  on  an  expedi- 
tion, not  so  much  for  game  as  for  a  survey  of  this  wonderful 
mountain.  We  rode  until  the  ground  was  so  steep  and  rocky 
that  we  were  obliged  to  abandon  our  horses,  and  we  made 
them  fast  with  the  picket  rope.  Qimbing  upwards,  we  en- 
countered windfalls  and  rocks  and  streams.  I  saw  several 
crossings  where  sheep  had  come  down  to  the  small  parks 
of  grass  among  the  trees  and  slept.  We  alarmed  many 
coveys  of  blue  grouse,  whose  plumage  was  dazzling  to  be- 
hold. We  now  came  to  a  rim  of  rock,  and,  after  a  hard 
climb,  crossed  it  to  be  confronted  by  a  beautiful  lake,  where 
hundreds  of  deer  and  elks  and  sheep  were  wont  to  come  to 
slake  their  thirst.  While  we  paused  we  could  see  down  on 
the  farther  side,  a  huge  cow  elk  and  her  yearling  calf,  drink- 
ing. Their  large  ears  stood  out  to  catch  the  sound  of  our 
feet  as  we  approached  them.  We  allowed  them  to  go  undis- 
turbed, as  we  had  no  use  for  their  flesh. 


234  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

Presently  we  came  to  anorner  lake,  and  here  we  sepa- 
rated. I  started  on  a  trail  up  the  mountain,  and  was  soon 
far  from  the  lake.  While  resting,  I  was  surprised  to  see  a 
large  silver-tip  bear  rushing  up  the  trail  on  which  I  had  just 
come.  Suddenly  it  raised  on  its  haunches  to  look  below, 
and  this  was  my  opportunity.  I  leveled  my  rifle,  took  a  bead 
on  the  top  of  its  head  and  fired. 

I  shall  never  forget  the  report  of  the  gun,  nor  the  scream 
of  the  bear,  which  burst  forth  together.  The  echoes  of  the 
shot  finally  died  away  in  the  distance,  but  the  roars  did  not 
cease.  The  ball  had  struck  the  bear  just  below  the  ear  and 
cut  an  artery,  and  the  blood  spurted  at  every  jump  he  gave. 
He  went  nearly  to  the  lake,  where  my  comrade  found  him 
dead.  He  was  a  large  male  and  as  fat  as  a  seal.  We  decided 
to  leave  him  where  he  was  until  we  had  explored  the  moun- 
tain top. 

Our  trip  up  the  mountain  was  resumed  and  the  higher 
we  went,  the  colder  it  became.  After  about  three  hours  we 
reached  the  top,  and  a  blast  of  wind  struck  us.  But  we  were 
richly  paid  for  the  ascent.  It  seemed  as  though  the  earth 
were  all  beneath  us  and  that  we  stood  like  Moses  of  old,  upon 
the  summit  of  the  world.  All  other  mountains  looked  like 
mere  foothills.  We  stood  between  earth  and  sky,  overlook- 
ing a  thousand  valleys  and  winding  streams.  The  foliage, 
far  below,  was  grand  beyond  description  and  of  all  colors 
and  tints.  No  life  existed  on  the  summit  save  our  own, 
but  down  on  the  rugged  sides  among  the  lakes  and  springs 
and  vegetation,  thousands  of  elks,  deer  and  sheep  had  their 
haunts.  The  wind  seemed  fairly  to  pierce  our  bodies,,  but 
we  took  the  sheltered  side  of  the  mountain  and  descended 
as  fast  as  we  could. 

We  soon  came  in  sight  of  our  bear,  and,  to  our  great  sur- 
prise, found  another  of  his  kind  eating  the  one  we  had  killed. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  235 

This  was  a  discovery  to  me.  I  lost  no  time  in  stalking 
the  living  animal  and  was  soon  behind  a  tree.  From  this 
position  I  could  see  him  as  he  tore  the  body  to  pieces.  He 
tried  to  cover  the  remains  with  earth  and  brush,  occasionally 
stopping  to  devour  a  portion.  The  sight  to  mt  was  sickening 
beyond  endurance,  so  I  sent  a  ball  through  the  monster's 
shoulders.  He  promply  forgot  about  his  dead  comrade,  and 
went  down  the  mountain  like  a  whirlwind,  tearing  and 
breaking  everything  before  him.  We  followed  him  by  aid 
of  sound  and  blood,  as  fast  as  we  could,  to  his  lair.  A  great 
hole  had  been  dug  under  a  large  rock,  but  he  failed  to  get 
inside,  and  his  great  lank  carcass  lay  stretched  out  just  in 
front  of  it. 

We  commenced  to  skin  him  and  I  will  say  here,  that  the 
hunter  who  skins  a  large  bear  with  his  hide  full  of  sand, 
must  have  a  knife  of  very  superior  metal.  We  were  forced 
to  sharpen  our  knives  every  few  moments.  The  toes  were 
very  hard  to  cut  out,  but  after  severe  effort,  we  finally  laid 
his  skin  over  a  pole  and  started  for  camp.  We  had  not  gone 
far,  when  we  jumped  a  large  band  of  black-tail  deer.  As  we 
had  spent  our  whole  day  in  exploring,  and  in  the  killing  of 
one  bear,  I  took  a  shot  at  a  young  doe  and  brought  it  down. 
Its  saddles  were  soon  strung  upon  our  pole  and  we  trudged 
back  to  camp. 

Our  next  encounter  was  with  a  band  of  mountain  sheep, 
wending  their  way  upward.  Among  them  was  one  of  the 
largest  bucks  I  have  ever  seen,  and,  though  I  wished  for  his 
great  horns,  I  could  not  possibly  have  carried  them,  so 
allowed  the  band  to  go  unmolested.  Just  for  sport  I  sent  a 
ball  near  the  old  lord  of  the  herd,  and  he  turned  angrily, 
with  fight  expressed  in  every  angle  of  his  body. 

When  we  came  out  of  the  timber  below  where  our  horses 
were  secured,  we  saw  that  a  large  band  of  elks  had  just  gone 


236  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

through  camp  and  had  fed  with  them.  After  watering  our 
horses  and  staking  them  for  the  night,  we  broiled  our  veni- 
son on  a  fire  of  quaking-asp  coals.  Our  beds  consisted  of  our 
saddle  blankets,  and  we  were  soon  ready  for  sleep.  Pre- 
sently the  wolves  began  to  howl  in  a  fearful  manner.  My 
companion  related  several  close  calls  he  had  passed  through 
in  Texas,  and  this  narration  did  not  tend  to  peaceful  slumber. 

When  morning  came  we  started  for  the  Yellowstone, 
and,,  after  a  ride  of  three  days,  came  to  the  old  trading  center 
at  Huntley.  I  have  never  forgotten  the  delight  of  this  trip 
and  have  since  passed  very  near  the  same  place.  I  still  hope 
to  revisit  this  locality,  as  I  am  very  sure  there  are  deposits  of 
gold  in  the  vicinity,  for  the  indications  all  point  that  way.  As 
time  passes  old  Earth  will  yield  up  some  of  her  very  precious 
treasures  in  Wyoming  and  Montana,  such  as  are  yet  un- 
dreamed of. 

The  name  of  the  man  with  whom  I  made  the  expedition 
was  supposed  to  be  John  Glenwood.  I  learned  afterward 
however,  that  this  was  an  assumed  name,  and  that  he  had 
left  Texas  to  avoid  intimate  connection  with  the  hangman's 
rope,  as  he  had  committed  murder. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  237 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 


A  Successful  Bear  Hunt. 

Days  and  months  were  passing  away,  and  the  many 
cares  of  Hfe  were  crowding  forward.  The  days  seemed  too 
short  to  accompHsh  the  work  I  had  set  out  to  do.  Finally  I 
pulled  up  stakes  and  started  north.  When  I  had  passed  Wolf 
Butte,  I  was  in  the  mountains,  and  on  one  high  summit  I 
stopped  and  took  a  careful  survey  of  the  surrounding  coun- 
try. As  I  gazed  the  old  fever  took  me  by  storm.  I  ran  my 
eye  over  the  break,  and  was  seized  with  an  overpowering 
desire  to  penetrate  its  green  foliage  and  once  more  feel  the 
freedom  which  I  had  longed  for  so  ardently  of  late.  At 
length  I  resolved  to  lay  over,  and  spend  a  few  days  in  the 
forest.  We  pulled  out  into  a  green  valley  where  wood  and 
water  were  abundant  and  we  soon  had  the  horses  cared  for 
and  our  camp  outfit  in  order. 

My  comrade's  name  was  Broncho  Bill — at  least  he  was 
known  by  that  name.  When  he  had  pitched  the  tent,  he 
shouldered  his  old  Sharp's  and  we  took  the  trail  for  the 
haunts  of  big  game.  We  had  not  gone  far  before  I  turned 
to  the  northwest  up  a  small  stream  lined  with  chokecherry 
bushes,  sagebrush  and  quaking  asp.  I  had  gone  about  two 
miles  and  the  perspiration  was  pouring  from  my  forehead, 
when  I  sat  down  on  a  large  rock  to  rest.  Soon  I  noticed 
that  a  large  stone  had  been  turned  over  on  the  opposite  bank, 
and,  on  a  close  examination,  I  found  unmistakable  signs  of 


238  ADVENTUR£S  of  dr.    ALLEN. 

what  I  sought.  Holes  had  been  dug  in  the  ground,  and 
stones  and  logs  turned  over,  all  of  which  indicated  the  recent 
visit  of  a  bear. 

In  the  spring  a  hungry  bear  will  roll  over  stones  and 
logs  that  three  men  could  not  move,  and  then  will  stand  up 
on  his  hind  feet  and  view  his  work,  roll  down  the  hill  and 
laugh  like  a  good  fellow,  in  the  sheer  joy  of  living.  In  the 
autumn  he  will  walk  up  to  a  clump  of  chokecherry  bushes, 
stand  on  his  haunches,  encircle  the  branches  with  his  front 
legs,  uproot  the  mass  in  one  bunch,  and  bend  them  over 
while  he  devours  the  fruit  in  great  gulps.  I  soon  found 
fresher  signs,  so  I  examined  my  cartridges  and  the  lock  of 
my  gun,  and  proceeded  up  stream  with  my  eyes  strained  for 
bear.  I  traveled  about  six  miles  farther  and  came  to  two 
large  springs,  wheYe  my  game  had  wallowed  in  the  water 
and  torn  up  the  grass. 

I  could  now  see  the  tracks  of  an  old  bear,  a  two-year-old 
one  and  a  cub.  I  hunted  far  and  wide,  but  without  success, 
and,  after  a  long,  hard  tramp,,  got  back  to  camp  empty-handed. 
My  comrade  had  killed  a  wolf  and  a  wildcat  during  the  day. 
We  soon  had  our  supper  and  were  relating  our  day's  adven- 
tures. A  large  horned  owl  over  our  heads  in  a  cottonwood 
tree,  kept  up  his  persistent  "whoo,  whoo,"  and,  as  I  had  not 
fired  a  shot  that  day,  I  drew  a  bead  on  him  and  broke  the 
silence.  He  was  a  very  large  grey  fellow,  and  I  regretted  not 
being  able  to  have  him  stuffed. 

At  four  in  the  morning  we  pulled  out  for  the  quaking- 
asp  thicket,  where  the  night  before  I  had  abandoned  the 
chase.  We  separated  and  I  soon  sighted  a  large  black-tailed 
deer,  but  he  disappeared  in  the  evergreens.  I  lost  no  time 
in  gaining  the  top  of  a  hill  where  I  could  command  a  good 
view  of  the  surrounding  country.  Service  berries,  choke- 
cherries,  currants  and  gooseberries  were  in  full  bloom,  and 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  239 

the  air  was  fragrant  with  sweet  odors.  I  was  taken  up  with 
enjoyment  of  the  place  that  I  had  almost  forgotten  the  deer, 
when  suddenly  he  emerged  from  a  thicket  and  walked  bold- 
ly across  a  little  flat.  He  was  a  large  buck,  and  had  shed  his 
horns,  but  the  new  growths  were  about  six  inches  long,  re- 
sembling cucumbers  in  shape.  I  was  just  weighing  the  right 
and  wrong  of  shooting  him,  when  he  turned  his  head  down 
the  stream,  gave  a  snort  and  dashed  off  in  the  direction  he 
had  come. 

Rising  to  my  feet  I  caught  my  gun,  but  could  not  com- 
mand a  view  of  the  locality  where  he  had  become  fright- 
ened, so  I  carefully  crept  down  and  took  my  stand  where  he 
had  been.  I  was  just  arriving  at  the  conclusion  that  Bill  had 
made  a  sneak  into  my  hunting  ground,  when  I  saw  the  tops 
of  a  bush  sway  to  and  fro  as  though  some  animal  were  rub- 
bing against  it.  After  a  tedious  time  of  waiting,,  the  bushes 
moved  in  several  places  and  I  could  scarcely  hold  myself,  for 
I  was  certain  now  that  I  was  to  have  a  bear  fight.  And  so  it 
proved.  At  that  moment  a  huge  silver-tip  bear  and  a  cub 
came  out  into  plain  sight.  I  at  once  drew  a  bead  on  her  head, 
but  instantly  realized  that  if  the  old  one  were  killed  first,  that 
the  cub  would  disappear,  so  I  quickly  decided  to  make  sure  of 
the  young  one  and  trust  the  mother  to  show  fight,  thus  af- 
fording me  another  shot. 

Before  I  could  shoot,  a  third  came  out,  and  as  the  cub 
climbed  around  the  mother,  pulling  and  hauling,  she  gave  it 
a  motherly  box  and  turned  his  little  bearship  up  side  down. 
I  had  waited  now  as  long  as  I  could  for  I  was  getting  ner- 
vous. I  pressed  my  old  Bullard  rifle  tightly  against  my 
shoulder,  drew  on  the  two-year-old  bear,  and  fired.  The  val- 
ley vibrated  with  the  sharp  crash  and  the  ball  did  its  fatal 
work.  He  lay  quivering  on  his  back  with  his  feet  straight  up, 
but  the  report  had  not  died  away  when  the  cub  received  a 
bullet  which  broke  his  back,  as  he  turned  toward  the  bushes. 


240  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

I  drew  on  the  old  one,  but  suspected  that  a  rear  shot  might 
prove  too  warm  for  me,  considering  my  position,  as  I  was  in 
a  poor  place  for  defense.  The  cub's  cries  soon  hushed,  and 
the  old  one  returned  to  the  bushes.  I  threw  in  a  club  and  she 
caught  it  and  crushed  it  to  pieces. 

Finally  I  got  out  of  patience  and  fired  into  the  place 
where  the  bushes  were  moving,  and  she  roared  like  a  mad 
bull,  tore  off  down  the  creek,  and  as  she  went  I  gave  her  an- 
other shot  in  the  shoulder.  At  this  she  sprang  to  the  right 
and  disappeared  in  the  trees.  She  kept  on  up  the  hill,  crash- 
ing the  old  limbs  and  twigs,  so  I  followed  and  trailed  her  by 
the  blood  on  the  bushes  and  ground.  I  had  crept  along  un- 
der the  bushes  for  about  a  mile  when  I  came  almost  within 
twenty  paces  of  the  bear,  standing  and  looking  back  at  me. 
I  was  almost  lying  down  when  I  saw  her  turn  half  way 
round  and  realized  that  I  was  in  a  bad  place.  The  bushes 
were  low  and  I  could  not  expect  to  escape  death  if  I  wounded 
her  in  her  present  position. 

I  felt  sure  she  knew  I  was  there,  so  I  drew  a  quick  aim 
at  her  ear  and  fired. 

She  gave  one  fearful  bound  and  fell  dead,  tearing  up 
the  bushes  and  everything  in  her  reach  until  her  form  lay 
quivering  in  the  last  throes  of  death.  The  whole  family  had 
been  slaughtered,  and,  as  I  stood  over  the  lifeless  form  of  the 
mother,  I  felt  a  twinge  of  remorse.  But  when  I  saw  what  a 
fine  robe  she  wore,  I  felt  that  I  was  somewhat  justified,  and, 
besides,,  the  young  cattle  would  now  fare  better  in  that  sec- 
tion. It  was  a  satisfaction  to  have  three  robes  as  trophies  of 
my  day's  hunt. 


ANTELOPE  HORNS  AFTER  SHEDDING. 


BEFORE  SHEDDING, 
Showing  Antlers. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  243 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 


Regarding  the  Antelope  Family. 

Twenty  years  ago  the  Western  plains  were  covered  with 
antelopes  (antelocapra  Americana).  Both  in  the  foothills 
and  in  the  valleys  they  were  to  be  seen  in  countless  numbers. 
The  antelope  is  beautiful  in  body,  pleasing  in  flavor,  and  as 
fleet  as  a  race-horse.  Its  sides  are  white,  its  back  is  red.  Tht 
short  mane  is  black,  as  are  also  the  stripes  about  the  head. 
It  has  by  far  the  keenest  vision  of  all  the  animals  of  the 
plains.  The  horns  appear  just  above  the  eyes,  standing  well 
out  upon  the  head.  They  are  hooked  on  the  point  with  a 
short  spur,  or  guard,  standing  at  right  angles  with  the  main 
beam.  These  sharp  points  are  used  as  weapons,  and  some- 
times in  battle,  they  become  locked  with  the  curved  hooks  of 
others  of  their  kind,  when  both  animals  die  from  thirst  and 
starvation. 

The  horns  are  annually  shed,  despite  the  statements  of 
all  the  encyclopedias.  This  has  been  proven  to  the  satisfac- 
tion of  fair-minded  investigators  and  is  here  shown  to  be  a 
fact  by  an  illustration  of  a  head  of  an  antelope  killed  by  the 
author  in  1877.  This  shedding  of  the  outside  sheath  takes 
place  in  the  latter  part  of  December  or  early  in  January,  leav- 
ing a  velvety  covering  on  the  pith  or  stump.  This  soon  be- 
comes hard  and  polished  and  grows  another  bony  sheath, 
similar  to  the  one  shed.  In  the  fall  the  old  horn  begins  to 
absorb  at  the  base,  and  close  to  the  head,  the  hair  grows  out 


244  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

through  it,  while  the  velvet  or  membrane  commences  to  form 
under  the  old  horn.  As  soon  as  the  new  membrane  is  formed 
about  the  pith,  the  outer  horn  falls  off. 

In  1877  I  wrote  an  article  about  the  shedding  of  the  an- 
telope's horns,  and  almost  all  of  the  old-timers  declared  that 
the  specimen  I  had  in  hand  was  only  a  freak.  I  then  began 
a  series  of  examinations  and  was  rewarded  by  positive  proof 
that  my  original  statement  was  correct.  My  second  article 
was  published  in  "The  American  Field"  in  1888,  which 
brought  the  entire  sporting  world  down  upon  my  head  in 
contradiction.  Finally,  Morris  Gibbs,  one  of  America's  best 
naturalists,  came  to  my  relief  and  established  the  fact,  but 
there  are  many  sportsmen  who  do  not  yet  believe  it. 

The  hair  of  the  antelope  is  soft  and  brittle ;  in  winter  a 
fine  wool  grows  underneath,  which  protects  them  from  cold 
and  storm.  After  the  intense  cold  of  the  winter,  they  are  the 
first  animals  to  fatten  on  the  new  vegetation.  The  females 
generally  have  two  young  ones  in  the  spring,  these  are  spot- 
ted like  deer.  The  antelopes  have  no  dewclaws,  or  secon- 
dary hoofs,  like  the  deer,  and  are  easily  domesticated. 

Their  curiosity  often  brings  them  within  easy  range  of 
the  hunter.  They  are  often  flagged  by  a  red  handkerchief 
or  by  a  hunter  lying  down  and  keeping  his  feet  moving 
around  above  his  head.  Their  "woman's  curiosity"  has  been 
the  cause  of  the  death  of  thousands  of  them,  but  not  of  late 
years,  as  they  have  learned  and  now  avoid  these  tricks.  Their 
skins,  if  taken  in  early  fall  and  properly  tanned,  make  very 
fine  underclothing,  and  prevent  one  from  taking  cold  in 
changeable  weather. 

The  young  antelopes  leave  no  scent  which  a  wolf  or 
hound  can  follow.  The  male  antelope  often  wanders  off  in 
summer  among  the  pine-covered  hills  and  lies  under  the  shade 
of  the  trees,  where  it  is  cool,  until  the  winter  storms  drive  the 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  245 

scattering  flocks  together  in  countless  thousands.  In  the  big 
bend  of  the  Yellowstone  in  1877,  1878  and  1879,  I  have  seen 
hundreds  of  thousands  in  one  band.  When  they  ran  togeth- 
er, their  white  tails  and  buttocks  looked  like  the  water  in  a 
lake,  when  the  wind  is  driving  it  into  waves. 

The  antelope  has  a  wonderfully  keen  scent,  and  can  hear 
a  horse's  approach  miles  away.  They  sometimes  detect  a 
hunting  party  six  or  eight  miles  off.  It  takes  the  greatest 
of  precaution  to  approach  an  antelope,  for  it  is  all  ears  and 
eyes  and  legs.  They  seem  to  fear  man  less  than  they  do  the 
wild  animals.  On  one  occasion,  six  antelopes  w^hich  had 
been  pursued  by  wolves  until  they  were  exhausted  and  fright- 
ened almost  to  death,  ran  before  my  team  not  more  than 
fifty  yards  away  for  many  miles,  until  the  wolves  abandoned 
the  chase.  I  could  easily  have  shot  them  all,  but  their  ap- 
peal to  me  to  save  them  from  the  sharp  fangs  of  the  wolves, 
in  addition  to  the  entreaty  of  my  wife,  who  was  with  me, 
saved  them. 

There  is  something  about  a  band  of  large  gray  wolves 
which  paralyzes  some  animals.  We  once  had  a  four-year-old 
horse  killed  and  eaten  by  these  cannibals  of  the  plains. 

Antelopes  have  often  been  fenced  in  by  accident  on  the 
ranges,,  when  property  owners  were  enclosing  large  tracts. 
At  the  present  time  I  know  of  several  bands  thus  incarcer- 
ated. Hon.  Paul  McCormick,  of  Billings,  Montana,  has  a 
band  of  thirty,  which  has  increased  from  twelve  thus  con- 
fined. They  have  no  disposition  to  leave  the  enclosure,  as 
they  are  on  the  old  range  and  seem  to  understand  that  they 
are  protected;  for  no  hunting  is  allowed  in  the  park.  He 
also  has  a  number  of  elks  and  the  two  bands  roam  the  enclos- 
ure in  content. 

The  antelope  resembles  the  goat  family  as  regards  the 
musk  odor,  and  it  is  like  the  deer  family  in  its  symmetrical 


246  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

body.  It  has  no  tear  ducts  in  front  of  the  eyes,  as  have  the 
deer  and  elk.  The  flesh  is  palatable,  when  killed  at  the  proper 
time  of  the  year,  in  the  fall.  If  the  body  is  left  intact  long 
after  death, 'a  taint  of  sage  is  detected  in  the  flesn,  and  there 
is  also  an  unpleasant  odor,  like  that  of  mutton  not  properly 
dressed. 

Some  sportsmen  regard  the  antelope  as  very  easy  to  kill. 
In  my  opinion  it  is  the  hardest  of  the  deer  family  to  bring  to 
death.  I  have  shot  an  antelope  nine  times,  driving  that  num- 
ber of  45-70-450  bullets  through  its  body,  and  then  it  trav- 
eled ten  miles  before  it  fell.  Sometimes  I  have  shot  them 
lengthwise  through  the  body,  but  seldom  have  I  seen  them 
fall  where  they  were  shot. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  247 


CHAPTER  XXV. 


Good  Sport  in  Patoiiar  Basin. 

The  month  of  September,  1882,  was  of  unusual  beauty 
and  charm  to  the  hunter  in  the  region  of  the  Yellowstone 
River.  Foliage  of  gorgeous  reds  and  golds  and  browns  was 
scattered  over  the  thousand  hills.  Myriads  of  grouse  roamed 
about,  feasting  on  the  delicious  harvest  of  berries.  The  jack 
snipe  busily  plied  his  long  bill  in  the  marsh,  searching  for 
insects,  and  the  jay  and  red  squirrel  battled  vociferously  for 
pine  nuts. 

A  jollier  set  of  sportsmen  then  we  never  graced  a  camp- 
fire.  The  party  consisted  of  Mr.  Shields,  of  'The  American 
Field,"  of  Chicago ;  Mr.  R.  J.  Sawyer,  of  Menominee,  Michi- 
gan, who  is  as  keen  a  sportsman  as  ever  shouldered  a  rifle ; 
Mr.  Wise,  of  Michigan,  who  flourished  a  45-75  Winchester, 
and,,  from  his  use  of  this  weapon,  convinced  us  he  "had  been 
there  before;"  Mr.  Huffman,  a  photographer  from  Miles 
City ;  Uncle  Ed.  Forest,  an  old-timer,  who  had  played  "hide- 
and-seek"  with  the  Sioux  nation  for  the  last  thirty  years  ;  my 
son  Willie,  and  myself. 

The  mountains  were  alive  with  animals,  and  each  mem- 
ber of  our  party  was  eager  to  try  his  skill  with  the  rifle.  We 
pressed  along  the  beautiful  valley  of  Clark's  Fork,  and 
white-tailed  deer  were  seen  in  the  distance,  skirting  the  banks 
of  the  river.  As  our  caravan  moved  along,  a  coyote  broke 
cover  from  a  clump  of  sagebrush,  and,  with  his  tail  waving 


248  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

in  the  breeze,  glided  like  a  shadow  across  the  valley.  As  he 
rushed  on,  bullets  followed,  sometimes  covering  him  with 
sand.  His  zigzag  course  resembled  lightning,  but  he  soon 
left  us  far  behind. 

The  white  sides  of  a  large  number  of  antelopes,  quietly 
feeding  on  the  rich  grasses,  attracted  us  presently,  and,  after 
a  stalk  of  some  miles,  we  came  upon  them.  By  a  careful 
maneuver  we  succeeded  in  nearly  surrounding  them,  and 
soon  a  volley  was  poured  into  them  from  three  sides.  Two 
of  their  number  fell  to  the  ground.  The  others  started  in  a 
circle  and  our  bullets  cut  the  earth  all  about  them.  They 
seemed  bewildered,  without  realization  of  the  approaching 
danger.  A  large  buck  antelope  with  his  head  erect,  bounded 
high,  his  sleek  glossy  sides  looking  like  silver.  But  death 
was  on  his  trail,  for  simultaneously  with  the  report  of  my 
rifle,  he  tumbled  forward.  The  other  boys  secured  five  in  all. 
There  was  much  excitement  and  waste  of  material,  but  the 
amateur  must  learn  to  aim  ahead  of  the  fleet  antelope  if  he 
wishes  to  hit  the  mark. 

We  planned  a  great  raid  on  the  trout  of  Bennett  Creek, 
turned  out  part  of  the  channel  and  made  a  lake  far  down  the 
valley,  which  is  still  in  good  order,  and  is  still  a  paradise  for 
the  finny  tribe.  A  day  was  spent  here  in  resting  and  feast- 
ing, during  which  time  we  killed  two  more  antelopes.  After 
taking  a  photograph  of  the  camp  we  proceeded  up  the  little 
stream  known  as  Patohar,  and  after  considerable  meander- 
ing, camped  above  the  place  of  the  Chapman  brothers.  Here 
we  prepared  to  hunt  for  bears  and  elks. 

After  the  regular  camp  building,,  erecting  tents,  making 
beds  of  fragrant  pine  boughs  and  preparing  fire  pits,  we  were 
ready  for  the  morning,  which  always  comes  soon  to  the  tired 
hunter.  The  next  day  was  spent  in  inspecting  the  country 
and  noting  game  trails.    We  all  came  in  rather  disappointed, 


BUCK  ANTELOPE. 
Showing  Horns  in  Full  Growth. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  249 

as  we  had  found  no  fresh  signs,  excepting  Uncle  Ed.,  who 
claimed  he  had  seen  nine  elks  at  a  great  distance  on  the 
mountain.  I  now  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  game  was 
higher  up  and  resolved  to  hunt  there  the  next  day. 

In  the  morning  we  started  in  different  directions  and 
were  soon  lost  to  each  other's  sight.  After  a  dreary  climb, 
I  rested  on  a  crag  and  cast  a  parting  look  at  our  camp,  nest- 
ling in  the  chokecherry  trees  by  the  creek.  I  noticed  the  rela- 
tive positions  of  Heart  Mountain  and  several  other  land- 
marks, and  then  proceeded  on  my  way.  Higher  and  higher 
I  wandered  up  the  mountain,  where  the  pine  cones  and  the 
bunch  grass  formed  a  carpet  of  extreme  softness.  Finally  I 
started  round  the  mountain  and  decided  to  cross  a  gulch, 
where  I  could  see  in  the  distance  some  quaking  asps  growing, 
for  I  knew  there  must  be  water  in  the  vicinty. 

I  had  not  proceeded  far  when  I  was  delighted  to  hear  a 
stick  snap.  I  sat  down  and  waited  until  I  was  tired  and  out 
of  patience,  but  at  length,  indistinctly,  I  saw  something  move, 
far  below  be.  It  proved  to  be  a  white-tail  doe  creeping  along, 
and  I  could  soon  see  her  glossy  side  near  the  water.  Her 
great  brown  eyes  glistened  like  diamonds,,  her  ears  moved 
back  and  forth  as  she  advanced  gracefully  and  noiselessly, 
scanning  every  object.  Instinctively  I  could  feel  my  arm 
raising  slowly  and  my  old  Bullard  coming  into  a  line  with 
the  beautiful  neck.  In  a  moment  a  leaden  messenger  crashed 
through  the  sleek  neck  and  this  queen  of  the  hills  was  lying 
bathed  in  blood. 

As  I  pulled  her  out  of  the  dense  wood  I  heard  some  of 
our  boys  coming  down  the  canyon.  They  stopped  and  in  a 
short  time  we  had  the  deer  on  a  horse  and  had  started  toward 
camp.  We  were  ravenously  hungry  and  soon  had  a  fine  re- 
.past,  consisting  of  fresh  venison,  potatoes,  canned  pears, 
dried  fruit,  boiled  onions  and  coffee. 


250  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

After  dinner  I  started  up  the  left  fork  of  the  Patohar, 
and  after  cHmbing  a  bald  hill,  sat  down  to  view  the  hills  and 
valleys.  My  boy,  Willie,  accompanied  me  on  his  pony  and 
presently  he  detected  something  down  the  mountain.  Iturned 
and, saw  a  young  grizzly,  bounding  down  the  other  side  of  the 
mountain.  In  an  instant  I  was  on  my  feet,  and,  after  giving 
careful  directions  to  my  son,  went  after  his  bearship.  I 
watched  him  carefully  until  he  began  to  feed  in  a  berry  patch, 
and  then  I  went  as  fast  as  I  could  run  toward  that  place.  I 
was  tired  when  I  had  located  him,  almost  out  of  breath,,  but, 
having  taken  a  short  rest,  I  concluded  to  give  him  a  surprise. 

After  a  careful  survey  of  the  ground,  I  decided  that  my 
position  was  disadvantageous,  and  that  the  bear  was  going 
from  me  over  a  divide.  Instant  action  was  imperative.  I 
concluded  that  I  would  break  his  shoulder,  and,  by  the  time 
he  could  get  to  me,  one  hundred  yards  distant,  I  would  have 
him  pretty  well  filled  with  lead.  After  throwing  in  a  death- 
seed,  I  took  deliberate  aim  at  his  shoulderblade  and  fired. 
The  bear  was  more  than  surprised,  and,  with  a  roar  which 
sounded  as  if  the  infernal  regions  had  been  stormed,  he  was 
almost  on  top  of  me  before  the  smoke  cleared  away. 

I  gave  him  another  shot  at  about  ten  paces  and  jumped 
to  one  side.  He  dashed  at  the  smoke  and  his  roars  almost 
deafened  me.  Quick  as  thought  I  threw  in  another  shell, 
sprang  across  a  little  rill,  and,  as  I  landed,  I  heard  him  com- 
ing. I  drew  another  hasty  aim  and  fired.  The  fire  and  pow- 
der burnt  his  face  severely  and  the  ball  struck  him  just  under 
the  eye,  tearing  his  entire  brain  to  pieces.  Just  then  I  Heard 
something  snort  behind  me,  and  wheeled  around  to  see  my 
boy  within  twenty  paces  of  me.  The  little  pony  was  snorting 
like  an  antelope  at  the  bear,  which  lay  in  a  pool  of  blood. 

The  first  shot  had  broken  his  shoulder,  the  second  had 
struck  him  in  the  breast  and  gone  through  his  lungs,  the  third 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  253 

had  broken  his  skull.  Any  of  the  shots  would  have  killed 
him,  but  not  until  after  he  could  have  killed  half-a-dozen 
men.  He  weighed  about  five  hundred  pounds,  and  was  as 
vicious  an  animal  as  I  ever  saw,  fighting  until  the  last  spark 
of  life  had  fled.  I  soon  had  his  skin  off,  and  found  his  head 
and  shoulders  were  a  mass  of  blood  and  broken  bones. 

This  day  revealed  the  whereabouts  of  considerable 
game,  and  Mr.  Huffman  had  flushed  a  large  band  of  elks  of 
all  ages.  They  were  three  separate  bands,  and  he  had  ex- 
hausted his  supply  of  cartridges  at  seventy-five  to  a  hundred 
yards  distance,  but  had  no  elk  to  show,  although  he  had 
wounded  several.  We  put  in  two  days  in  hunting  this  band, 
which  had  gone  to  the  southwest.  The  yard  where  they 
camped  showed  that  there  were  nearly  one  hundred  and  fifty 
of  them  roaming  around.  As  the  rutting  season  had  com- 
menced, they  were  splitting  up.  The  bulls  were  herding  the 
cows  in  all  directions,  and  I  knew  it  would  be  no  use  to  follow 
them,  but  would  be  better  to  hunt  a  new  band. 

We  were  getting  desperate  now,  for  our  supply  of  meat 
was  getting  low,  so  we  set  out  up  the  north  mountain  side. 
After  a  hard  climb  we  reached  the  quaking-asps  and  springs 
of  water.  We  paired  off  and  had  not  gone  far  when  we 
heard  the  elk  tearing  through  the  bushes,  and  soon  Shield's 
rifle  rang  out  three  times  in  quick  succession.  All  was  now 
confusion.  Shield  had  killed  a  cow  and  wounded  a  young 
bull.  Sawyer  and  I  had  came  close  together,  and  I  could 
hear  some  animal  going  in  his  direction,  when  his  old  50 
Winchester  belched  its  compliments  with  an  explosive  bang. 
I  soon  reached  him,  but  the  fog  was  so  dense  that  I  could  see 
nothing,  but  presently  we  found  a  large  cow  elk,  with  one 
of  her  hind  legs  almost  torn  from  her  body. 

We  all  returned  to  camp  thoroughly  soaked.  After  sup- 
per Shields  supplied  himself  with  matches,  an  oilcloth  coat 


254  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

and  his  rifle,  and  went  to  watch  his  elk,  which  we  had  left  in 
a  tree.  This  was  a  good  idea,  for  the  bears  were  thick.  In 
the  morning  we  could  hear  a  cannonading  which  sounded 
like  a  skirmish,,  and  I  think  Shields  and  a  bull  elk  must  have 
got  buffaloed,  as  there  were  fully  twelve  shots  fired.  How- 
ever, he  secured  a  fine  bull  with  a  beautiful  pair  of  antlers, 
though  one  was  shot  almost  off  in  the  fray.  After  the  game 
was  all  dressed  we  started  up  the  mountain  with  horses,  after 
the  old  bull  and  Sawyer's  cow  elk. 

We  were  hard  at  work  skinning  the  bull,  when  three 
bears  charged  us  like  Comanche  Indians.  They  came  with 
roars  and  growling,  snapping  their  teeth  like  steel  traps. 
They  advanced  until  they  were  within  a  few  paces,  when  the 
uproar  in  camp  caused  them  to  stop  and  look.  Horses  were 
plunging,  snorting  and  bucking.  Our  rifles  cracked  and  in- 
creased the  din.  The  old  bear  and  one  of  the  younger  ones 
were  killed,  one  making  his  ecape. 

We  now  had  a  fine  bait  to  watch,  and  the  bears  literally 
tore  up  the  earth  around  us  every  night.  Sawyer  got  a  shot 
at  a  large  grizzly,  but  missed.  Wise  also  missed  one,  but,  as 
he  had  killed  two  before,  we  were  well  supplied  with  bear 
meat. 

I  went  up  one  evening  and  took  up  a  station  to  watch  the 
carcasses.  The  grouse  were  thick  and  were  flying  all  around. 
I  had  almost  concluded  to  get  some  of  them  for  supper  when 
I  heard  the  rushing  footsteps  of  a  bear.  I  sat  behind  a  large 
pine,  and,,  as  my  bear  came  into  view,  I  sent  a  45  bullet 
through  his  neck,  cutting  his  jugular  vein  and  breaking  his 
neck  and  back. 

Our  happiness  was  now  about  complete,  for  we  had  all 
killed  a  large  amount  of  game,  and  Mr.  Sawyer  had  tried  his 
new  gun  on  elks,  bears  and  antelopes  and  found  its  killing 
qualities  all  that  he  could  wish.    Mr.  Wise  had  found  his  old 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  255 

45  sufficient  for  bears.  Mr.  Shields  had  killed  his  boss  elk, 
Uncle  Ed.  had  hammered  the  game  all  around.  So  we  broke 
camp  after  five  weeks  of  unbounded  pleasure  in  the  Patohar 
basin. 

After  traveling  seventy-five  miles  over  the  Clark's  Fork 
valley,  we  landed  in  Billings,  all  brown  with  sun  and  wind, 
as  stout  and  hearty  a  set  of  fellows  as  ever  returned  from  a 
hunting  trip.  From  here  each  went  his  way,  but  it  will  be  a 
long  time  before  the  events  of  that  hunt  will  be  forgotten  by 
the  participants. 


256  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 


The  Sportsmen's  Old  Haunts— Indian  summer— oca  the  mountain— a  big  horn 
chase — my  largest  ram. 

In  1886  I  was  in  Cooke  City,  where  my  dental  work  had 
called  me.  It  was  four  years  since  I  had  indulged  myself  in 
a  regular  hunt.  I  had  arranged  for  a  hunting  trip  with  some 
friends,  and  the  appointed  hour  had  passed  and  they  had  not 
appeared.  My  old  Bullard  stood  in  the  corner.  Cartridges, 
belt,  knife  and  hunting  suit,  all  were  ready,  and  I  felt  the 
keenest  disappointment. 

Many  changes  had  taken  place  in  the  sportsmen's  old 
haunts.  Where  game  had  recently  roamed  the  forests  was 
now  taken  as  ranges  for  domestic  stock.  The  game  had  been 
driven  far  back  into  the  high  crags  and  mountains,  such  as 
the  Index  and  Electric  peaks,  which  stand  eleven  and  twelve 
thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  the  hunter  being 
forced  to  climb  those  rugged  cliffs  to  find  satisfactory  game. 

The  following  morning  even  brought  no  news  of  my 
comrades.  Anxiety  and  suspense  overcame  me.  I  grasped 
my  faithful  old  friend,  threw  down  the  lever  and  surveyed 
the  inside  which  gleamed  like  a  mirror.  It  was  my  Bullard 
rifle,  45  calibre,  eighty-five  grains  of  powder,  ten  pounds 
weight  and  ten  shots.  I  seized  my  cartridge  belt,  my  knife, 
a  cold  lunch  and  started  out. 

The  sun  shone  warmly  and  the  smoke  from  the  smelters 
gave  an  appearance  of  Indian  summer.  I  soon  gained  a  for- 
est of  pines  whose  boughs  were  loaded  with  nuts.    The  little 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  257 

red  squirrels  were  merrily  cutting  the  burrs  and  chattering 
among  the  branches.  The  mountain  jay  clamored  in  the  tops 
of  the  trees  where  the  nuts  were  thickest.  The  little  chip- 
munk was  gathering  up  what  fell  to  the  earth,  busily  de- 
positing it  in  his  winter  home.  All  living  creatures  were 
active.    How  natural  it  all  seemed ! 

I  crossed  Soda  Butte  Creek  and  started  up  the  mountain. 
Fallen  timber,  cordwood  and  old  tree-tops  almost  blocked  the 
way,  but  I  pressed  on  higher  and  higher  up  the  grand  old 
mountain  until  I  was  almost  out  of  breath.  Towering  up 
in  the  clouds  stood  Index  and  Pilot  peaks  covered  with  ever- 
greens and  snow.  I  often  was  forced  to  stop  to  catch  my 
breath  in  this  high  altitude.  Looking  far  down  into  the 
depths  I  could  see  the  little  stream  glistening  in  the  sunlight. 
Cooke  City  looked  like  a  group  of  toy  houses.  Once  more 
I  turned  my  eyes  toward  the  summit.  Its  grandeur  and  sub- 
limity were  almost  overpowering. 

Surely  such  a  place  must  be  the  home  of  the  bighorn 
sheep.  I  scanned  one  shelf  after  another  and  swept  my  eyes 
along  until  on  a  sharp  projecting  cliff  I  beheld  some  living 
thing.  The  old-time  thrill  went  through  my  frame  like  a 
shock  of  electricity.  Before  I  could  make  out  what  the  ob- 
ject was,  I  hastened  along  over  rocks,  bushes,  scrub  junipers 
and  beds  of  green  moss.  Finally  I  could  see  the  grayish  out- 
lines of  what  appeared  to  be  a  bighorn.  By  taking  a  cir- 
cuitous route  I  gained  an  easy  distance  and  good  range.  Aft- 
er a  long  hard  climb  I  found  myself  on  a  high  peak,  destitute 
of  life,  for  my  bighorn  had  disappeared  around  the  peak. 

At  length  I  landed  on  his  feeding  ground  and  soon  found 
his  tracks  in  the  loose  dirt.  His  hoof  marks  were  like  those 
of  a  yearling  steer.  I  set  out  upon  his  trail,  keeping  low  be- 
hind the  rocks.  After  traveling  about  a  mile  he  had  started 
to  run,  so  I  gave  up  the  hopes  of  ever  again  seeing  him  and 


258  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

Started  up  the  mountain.  After  going  across  the  country  for 
some  time,  I  flung  myself  down  upon  a  moss  patch,  com- 
pletely tired  out.  I  looked  down  upon  a  world  of  mountains. 
Bear  Tooth  stood  about  seven  miles  away.  The  Stinking 
Water,  Clark's  Fork,  Cradle  Creek,  the  Hoodoos  and  the 
Tetons  could  all  be  located  with  accuracy. 

While  I  was  locating  diiferent  portions  of  the  country 
I  perceived  an  animal  on  a  little  mound  about  four  hundred 
yards  to  my  right.  It  was  feeding  and  I  could  see  only  its 
back.  It  would  not  be  possible  to  go  closer,  for  I  would  be  in 
plain  view  all  of  the  way.  Presently  it  turned,  walked  leis- 
urely to  the  top  of  the  mound,  broadside  to  me  and  stopped. 

What  a  sight  for  these  latter  days!  There  stood  my 
bighorn.  The  sky  was  the  background  and  his  erect  head, 
his  large  round  body  and  well-set  limbs  made  a  striking  pic- 
ture. I  raised  my  globe  sight  to  four  hundred  yards,  threw 
in  a  cartridge,  and,  drawing  the  butt  closer  to  my  shoulder, 
pressed  the  trigger.  A  stream  of  fire,  a  deafening  report,  and 
the  echoes  rumbled  down,  down,  until  all  was  again  quiet. 
The  ram  had  made  one  bound  and  was  out  of  sight.  I  threw 
in  another  cartridge  and  with  all  of  my  speed  ran  to  the  spot. 

There  was  visible  a  tuft  of  hair  and  a  spattering  of 
blood.  About  one  hundred  yards  below  he  lay  dead.  He 
was  the  largest  ram  I  had  ever  seen  and  his  large  horns  were 
half  buried  in  the  sand.  His  mouth  was  still  full  of  herbs, 
his  sleek  coat  of  blue  hair  was  like  the  down  of  thistles.  He 
weighed  about  three  hundred  pounds,  and  his  head  was  all 
that  I  could  carry.  I  dressed  him  nicely,  took  his  pelt  and 
started  to  return.  After  hours  of  fatigue  I  reached  home, 
and  dressed  his  lordship's  head,  which  now,  with  other  spec- 
imens which  have  fallen  to  the  music  of  my  old  Bullard, 
adorns  my  home. 

Later  I  returned  for  the  carcass,  and,  after  getting  his 


BIG  HORN  RAM. 
Photo  from  Life. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  259 

saddle  off,  my  pony  looked  like  an  old  workhorse  from  the 
great  exertion  of  the  trip.  I  often  think  in  these  latter  days 
of  that  wild  ride  through  the  mountains  and  sigh  for  another 
such  September  day,  and  for  my  old  hunting-horse,  which 
would  lie  down  and  keep  still  at  a  moment's  warning. 


26o  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 


Goat  Hunting  at  Dearborn  Canyon. 

With  my  traveling  outfit  of  dental  instruments  and  my 
rifle,  I  alighted  from  the  overland  coach  at  Sun  River  Cross- 
ing, Montana,  determined  to  enjoy  a  few  days  in  hunting 
before  settling  down  to  work.  I  found  a  half-breed  French- 
man who  was  just  about  to  start  for  Augusta,  a  little  town 
on  the  south  fork  of  Sun  River.  As  I  wished  to  lose  no  time, 
I  asked  him  if  he  would  take  me  and  my  outfit  to  Augusta. 

"How  much  you  give?"  was  his  answer. 

"What  do  you  want?" 

He  replied  that  he  would  like  to  have  a  little  tea.  I 
bought  him  a  pound  of  black  tea  for  fifty  cents,  and  a  de- 
lighted expression  came  into  his  face  when  I  handed  him  the 
coveted  article.  We  soon  entered  his  spring  wagon  and  start- 
ed. He  was  very  inquisitive  as  to  my  plans  and  work.  I 
told  him  I  was  a  dentist  going  to  Augusta,  and  from  there 
into  the  mountains  after  goats. 

''Mountain  goat  ?" 

"Yes,"  said  I,  "I  want  to  find  some  goats.  Where  do  you 
live?" 

"Dearborn  canyon.    Heaps  of  goats  high  up  there  now." 

We  rattled  along  and  he  told  me  all  about  the  game  in 
his  locality.  Before  we  reached  our  destination  he  informed 
me  that  his  horses  would  take  me  after  goats  if  I  so  desired. 
We  arrived  in  Augusta  about  dark,  and  stopped  there  over 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  261 

night.  Early  next  morning  with  ample  provisions,  we  set 
out  for  the  half-breed's  home.  Our  course  lay  through  Hay 
basin,  a  lonely  little  valley  about  a  mile  wide.  The  country 
was  dotted  with  small  lakes  and  almost  covered  with  ducks. 

We  reached  my  guide's  home,  if  it  could  be  called  a 
home,  about  noon.  His  possessions  were  a  little  log  cabin, 
four  lank  cayuses,  a  dog  and  half-a-dozen  children.  There 
seemed  to  be  a  family  resmblance  between  the  animals  and 
children.  His  wife  owned  most  of  the  flesh  on  the  premises, 
her  weight  being  two  hundred  and  fifty  pounds.  I  had  taken 
the  precaution  to  bring  a  good  bed  with  me,,  so  was  assured 
of  cleanliness  and  comfort.  After  examining  all  of  our  outfit 
the  curiosity  of  the  children  was  satisfied.  I  began  to  clean 
my  gun  and  prepare  for  the  morning. 

As  only  one  bed  was  visible,  I  wondered  how  this  family 
of  eight  would  manage  to  sleep.  Presently  a  large  tick  was 
taken  from  the  bed  and  spread  upon  the  floor.  The  children 
were  all  stored  away  in  the  bed  and  not  a  word  was  said,  but 
several  pairs  of  roguish  black  eyes  peered  out  under  the  cov- 
ers while  I  arranged  my  blankets  near  by.  The  parents  then 
filled  their  pipes  and  began  to  smoke. 

In  their  plain  cabin,  with  just  enough  to  keep  soul  and 
body  together,  the  happiness  of  these  people  seemed  com- 
plete. The  half-breed  had  married  a  Flathead  squaw,  and, 
during  the  time  of  Reil's  rebellion  had  moved  to  Montana 
where  he  has  lived  and  roamed  ever  since.  After  relating 
many  buflFalo  and  other  frontier  stories,  we  turned  in  for  the 
night.  We  arose  late  in  the  morning,  but  were  not  long  in 
getting  off,,  as  our  pack  horses  were  in  the  stable  and  our  pro- 
visons  were  soon  packed. 

We  began  to  ascend  Dearborn  canyon  on  the  north  wall. 
Each  of  us  rode  one  horse  and  Lafarge,  the  half-breed,  led 
the  pack  horse.    While  going  over  some  rough  ground,  the 


262  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

pack  horse  contrived  to  get  his  lariat  under  the  tail  of  the 
horse  ridden  by  Lafarge.  The  bronco  bucked  furiously,  La- 
farge  meanwhile  yelling  lustily.  Finally  the  animal  lay  down 
and  rolled  over,  unseating  Lafarge.  It  was  fun  for  me,  and 
I  laughed  until  I  was  sore. 

Making  another  start,  we  reached  the  first  park,  which 
was  a  splendid  place  for  deer,,  but  not  high  enough  for  goats. 
We  continued  our  way  beyond  the  park,  and  began  the  ascent 
of  the  main  range  of  the  mountains.  After  three  hours  of 
hard  climbing  and  pulling,  we  reached  the  golden  summit. 

Here  was  a  grand  sight.  We  could  see  the  valley  for 
miles  below,  the  beautiful  winding  Sun  River  and  its  tribu- 
taries. October  in  her  multi-colored  splendor  had  already 
dyed  the  forest  leaves.  We  made  camp,  secured  our  horses 
and  started  to  survey  the  summit.  As  we  strolled  along 
thousands  of  feet  below  us  we  could  see  where  the  goats  had 
cut  deep  trails  among  the  soft  rocks,  and  near  us  were  plenty 
of  signs  of  recent  visitation. 

We  found  a  spring  and  plenty  of  wood  at  the  head  of  a 
canyon,  and  made  our  camp  at  this  point.  Goats  had  been 
there  within  twenty-four  hours.  We  rested  well,  disturbed 
only  by  the  mourning  of  the  wind  among  the  trees  during 
the  night. 

After  breakfast  we  picketed  our  horses,  and,  filling  our 
belts  with  cartridges,  started  for  a  rugged  cliff  about  a  mile 
away,  which  was  partly  covered  with  evergreens.  Cougar 
signs  were  visible  in  the  sand  and  this  was  a  good  indication, 
as  the  cougar  or  mountain  lion  is  always  to  be  found  in  the 
vicinity  of  other  game.  We  toiled  on  and  upward  until  we 
reached  a  beautiful  open  spot,  which  ran  parallel  with  the 
mountains. 

While  we  sat  viewing  the  beauties  of  this  grand  park, 
we  saw  a  band  of  black-tail  deer  feeding  off  toward  a  canyon 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  263 

on  the  north  side.  There  were  five  in  the  band,  and  they  soon 
disappeared  down  the  canyon,  about  three  hundred  yards 
away.  Lafarge  wanted  to  pursue  them,  but  I  was  after  goats, 
for  I  could  kill  deer  anywhere.  So  I  told  him  we  would  not 
try  to  molest  the  deer  until  after  we  had  killed  some  goats. 
We  turned  to  the  south  and  passed  down  a  series  of  what 
might  be  called  stone  steps,  until  we  landed  on  a  narrow  shelf 
covered  with  a  fine  moss  and  a  few  scrub  pines. 

Here  we  found  fresh  sheep  and  goat  signs.  The  ani- 
mals had  gone  around  to  the  west  side  of  the  mountain, 
toward  which  we  followed  as  fast  as  the  condition  of  the 
ground  would  permit.  After  a  long  walk,  we  rounded  a 
heavy  boulder  which  had  fallen  from  the  ledge  above,  and 
there  surprised  five  goats  that  were  carelessly  sauntering 
about,  picking  up  the  finest  moss.  They  saw  us  and  started 
to  run.  I  shot  at  the  leader  and  killed  him  in  his  tracks.  A 
second  shot  killed  another  just  as  they  disappeared  around 
a  curve.  We  followed  at  our  utmost  speed  but  we  never 
again  saw  the  remaining  three,  nor  could  we  find  where  they 
went. 

The  dead  goats  were  splendid  specimens,  whose  sleek 
black  horns  looked  like  polished  ebony.  As  they  were  very 
heavy  we  skinned  them,  and  only  took  their  skins  and  the 
hind  quarters,  but  these  made  a  heavy  load  for  us  to  carry 
out  of  this  mountain  defile.  After  great  exertion,  we  ascend- 
ed our  stone  steps  and  rested  on  the  mountain  top. 

I  felt  now  that  my  hunt  was  over,  but  Lafarge  wanted 
some  deer  meat.  To  please  him  we  went  after  the  black-tail 
deer  we  had  seen  in  the  morning.  I  was  sure  they  would  not 
go  far,  and  while  he  went  after  our  pack  horses,  I  followed 
the  deer.  They  had  passed  ovr  the  brow  of  the  hill,  where, 
after  a  close  inspection,  I  found  them  lying  among  the  rocks. 
They  saw  us,  ran  toward  the  goat  trail,  and  as  they  flew  past 


264  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

me  I  shot  three  in  rapid  succession,  letting  the  two  old  ones 
go  unmolested.  We  dressed  them  and  packed  the  choicest 
parts  to  our  camp,  where  we  had  a  royal  feast  on  venison 
marrow-bones  and  liver.  We  had  hunted  all  day  and  were  as 
hungry  as  mountaineers  only  can  be. 

We  arose  early  on  the  next  morning,  packed  our  goats 
and  deer,  alternately  leading  and  riding  our  horses  down  the 
trail  toward  home.  I  never  before  saw  such  a  happy  squaw 
and  youngsters  as  received  us  on  our  return.  We  unloaded 
the  venison,  which,  with  our  provisions,  was  stowed  away 
in  the  cabin. 

After  supper,  from  miles  around,  young  half-breeds 
came  in,  and  I  was  treated  to  the  sight  of  a  dance  which  was 
unique  in  the  amount  of  alcohol  consumed,  and  the  quantity 
and  quality  of  music  evoked  from  the  violin. 

As  I  was  to  return  to  Augusta  the  following  day,  I  took 
my  bed  outside  the  cabin  and  went  to  sleep.  About  eleven 
the  next  morning  we  set  out  for  Augusta,  and  found  that 
another  dance  was  announced  there  for  that  night.  From 
this  trip  I  brought  only  one  deer  and  the  hides  and  horns  of 
the  two  goats  back  with  me,  but  pleasant  recollections  will 
always  be  associated  with  its  remembrance. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  267 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 


After  Elk  on  Ten  Sleep  River. 

In  1890,  some  time  after  I  had  abandoned  hunting  as  a 
profession,  I  was  in  Buffalo,  Wyoming,  where  I  had  estab- 
Hshed  a  dental  office.  One  morning  Cal  Jennings,  one  of  the 
finest  big  game  himters  of  Wyoming,  was  brought  into  my 
office  by  Mr.  Chappell,  and  nothing  would  do  but  we  must 
all  join  in  an  old-fashioned  elk  hunt.  I  gave  the  subject 
due  deliberation  and  concluded  to  join  them  in  a  quest  of  the 
old  monarch  of  the  mountains ;  for  it  had  been  a  long  time 
since  I  had  seen  him  at  large. 

Mr.  Jennings  declared  he  knew  just  where  a  band  was 
to  be  found,  so  we  talked  the  matter  over,  and  set  the  time 
of  our  departure  three  days  later.  We  secured  a  good  out- 
fit, and  I  finished  up  my  work  preparatory  to  leaving.  As 
the  day  approached  I  began  to  feel  the  old  fever.  We  were 
all  busy  in  packing  our  provisions  and  camp  fittings,  but  Mr. 
Jennings  had  not  yet  made  his  appearance,  and  we  were  won- 
dering what  delayed  him. 

Just  at  this  moment  we  heard  a  rattling,  and,  looking 
up  the  road,  we  saw  four  fine  animals  hitched  to  a  light  wag- 
on, in  which  sat  Jennings,  his  long  whip  sounding  like  fire- 
crackers. 

Dashing  up,  he  made  a  circle  after  the  custom  of  an  ov- 
erland coach  driver,  and  stopped  to  take  aboard  our  groceries 
and  bedding.    Our  effects  were  piled  into  the  wagon  in  a  few 


268  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

minutes  and  one  crack  of  his  whip  sent  the  horses  away  Hke 
a  flash.  Through  the  kindness  of  Mr.  ChapHn,  a  wealthy 
farmer  and  cattlegrower,  I  was  loaned  a  fine  saddle  pony. 
Chappell  rode  Dr.  Watkins'  iron-gray  steeple-chaser ;  Mr. 
Dickey  rode  his  own  fleet  mare,  and  Mr.  Jennings  also  took 
along  his  old  reliable  pony,  which  was  ridden  by  Mr.  Erwin 
Whitcomb,  who  completed  the  party.  My  friend,  Chappell, 
and  myself  remained  to  bring  up  the  rear  on  horseback. 

Our  horses  were  in  good  condition  and  traveled  well. 
When  we  ascended  the  top  of  the  hill,  we  could  see  our  team 
and  horsemen  wending  their  way  far  in  the  distance.  We 
were  now  about  five  miles  from  the  base  of  the  mountain, 
so  we  pressed  forward.  Having  ascended  a  gulch  a  long 
distance,  we  finally  came  to  what  I  supposed  was  the  road 
which  went  up  perpendicularly,  but,  on  nearing  the  spot,  it 
was  found  to  be  a  pole  chute.  We  turned  to  the  left  and 
found  our  teamster,  Cal,  toiling  up  the  narrow  way.  Here 
we  were  fortunate  enough  to  find  a  man  hauling  lumber  who 
gave  us  the  aid  of  one  of  his  teams.  After  a  pull  of  more 
than  an  hour,  we  succeeded  in  getting  up  the  worst  portion 
of  the  mountain. 

Presently  we  came  to  a  halt  and  camped  for  dinner  at 
an  old  sawmill.  Our  horses  were  soon  eating.  Each  member 
of  our  company  tried  to  outdo  the  others  in  the  preparation 
of  dinner,,  and,  in  a  few  minutes,  all  were  appeasing  moun- 
tain appetites.  After  dinner  our  route  lay  over  a  beautiful 
prairie  with  stretches  of  pine  timber.  The  warm  sun  brought 
out  the  red  squirrels,  and  the  ever  busy  '^camp  robber"  was 
chattering,  as  he  plied  his  ivory  bill  to  the  pine  cone,  devour- 
ing the  nuts.  We  made  a  long  drive  over  rough  roads  and 
struck  our  camp  on  the  north  fork  of  Powder  River,  where 
Cal  had  planned  that  we  would  spend  the  night.  Chappell 
and  I  stole  a  march  on  the  others,  got  in  first,  located  camp. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  269 

picketed  our  horses,  and  set  out  after  the  festive  black-tails. 

We  headed  for  a  rimrock  fringed  with  pine,  dotted  with 
quaking-asps  and  box  elders,  and  made  a  drive  hunt.  Chap- 
pell  took  the  right  and  I  the  left,  agreeing  to  meet  at  a  certain 
point  of  rocks.  I  had  just  crossed  the  little  stream  when 
Chappell's  old  Bullard  rifle  awoke  the  neighborhood  with  a 
piercing  sound.  I  hastily  threw  a  cartridge  into  the  cham- 
ber of  my  gun  and  strained  my  eyes  for  deer,  but  none  came 
in  sight.  I  was  now  on  my  mettle  and  resolved  that  if  there 
was  a  deer  in  that  country  I  would  add  him  to  our  larder,  so 
I  plunged  into  the  quaking-asp,  from  there  went  on  to  the 
pines  and  the  rimrock,  but  a  few  old  buck  tracks  were  all 
I  could  find. 

It  was  dark  when  I  turned  to  go  to  camp  and  I  heard, 
although  very  faintly,  in  the  distance  the  snap  of  a  stick,  but 
my  practiced  ear  rarely  errs  in  such  a  matter.  I  marked  the 
direction,  crept  carefully  along  and  listened.  I  could  hear 
the  leaves  pack  under  the  tread  as  the  footsteps  came  closer, 
and  I  believed  that  I  had  stalked  a  lion,  so  I  lay  down  in  the 
trail  to  surprise  his  majesty  when  he  came  up  to  me.  In  a 
moment  I  could  see  something  approaching  very  cautiously, 
and  drew  my  rifle  to  my  face  and  raised  the  hammer,  but  held 
my  thumb  carefully  on  it.  On  the  figure  came  and  I  was  sure 
that  I  had  game,  but,,  as  I  never  shot  at  random  in  my  life, 
this  was  a  time  for  me  to  be  on  my  guard.  Another  stick 
cracked,  and  then  I  began  to  think  it  was  nothing  worth  my 
while  and  lowered  my  gun.  Presently  I  could  see  a  black 
object,  which  anyone  would  have  sworn  was  a  bear,  crawl- 
ing under  some  fallen  brush  only  about  forty  yards  away. 

I  said  in  a  low  tone,  "Is  that  you,  Chappell  ?" 

The  answer  came,  '*You  bet,  what  are  you  doing  away 
up  here  ?    I  thought  you  had  gone  to  camp." 

"One  careless  shot  and  you  would  have  been  an  angel," 
I  replied. 


270  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

*1  don't  hunt  with  them  kind  of  fellows." 

We  had  a  good  laugh  oyer  the  surprise.  Chappell  had 
failed  to  bring  down  his  deer,  so  that  put  an  end  to  my  hopes 
of  fresh  meat  for  supper.  We  were  now  two  or  three  miles 
from  camp  and  had  come  directly  together  in  the  heart  of  the 
forest,  a  mile  from  where  we  agreed  to  meet.  "Never  shoot 
at  any  game  until  you  can  see  it  wink,''  was  a  lesson  I  was 
thoroughly  taught  when  a  boy,  and  I  should  have  surely 
killed  my  companion  if  I  had  fired  contrary  to  this  rule. 

When  we  reached  camp  supper  was  ready,  and  we  did 
it  ample  justice.  In  the  evening  we  listened  as  Cal  told 
where  to  find  the  alleged  band  of  bulls,  then  the  exact  loca- 
tion of  the  cows  and  calves  and  also  of  the  rimrock,  where 
deer  were  in  number  ''like  flies  at  a  meat  market."  But  I  had 
hunted  the  mountains  in  palmier  days  than  these,  and  knew 
that  game  would  be  hard  to  find  in  such  fine  weather.  The 
pleasant  campfire  and  our  warm  beds  were  just  the  thing 
for  us  that  night. 

After  a  refreshing  sleep  and  a  warm  breakfast,  we  con- 
tinued our  march,  having  about  the  same  luck  as  the  day  be- 
fore, except  that  Chappell  tried  ti  extract  a  shell  from  his 
rifle  and  broke  the  shell  extractor.  He  said  this  would  surely 
hoodoo  him  for  the  trip.  Presently  when  we  came  to  some 
thick  pine  trees  I  saw  a  grouse,  dismounted  and  fired  a  shot 
at  it.  The  feathers  flew  from  its  body  in  a  great  cloud,  and 
I  thought  I  had  torn  a  whole  wing  off,  but,  as  no  one  of  our 
party  saw  the  bird  fly,  and  it  could  not  be  found  in  the  tree 
where  I  had  located  it,  we  came  to  the  conclusion  that  it  had 
dematerialised. 

Our  journey  now  became  more  interesting.  The  scenery 
was  wilder.  Civilization  was  farther  behind  us.  After  go- 
ing a  few  miles  we  found  some  elk  signs  and  here  Chappell 
and  I  took  a  turn  through  the  mountains.    We  saw  that  the 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  27I 

elk  had  made  a  straight  line  for  our  evening  camp,  so  we 
bore  further  westward,  where  we  found  plenty  of  fresh  deer 
signs.  As  we  were  climbing  a  steep  bank  above  a  deep  creek, 
having  our  guns  carelessly  dangling  in  the  slings,  through 
some  quaking-asps  I  saw  the  outlines  of  a  black-tail  deer.  I 
jumped  from  my  pony  and  in  a  moment  had  the  old  Bullard 
ready  for  business.  As  I  crawled  up  a  little,  I  discovered 
five  other  deer  in  different  places,  but  could  see  none  of  them 
plainly.  But  there  was  no  chance  to  get  a  better  shot,  so  I 
drew  a  bead  on  the  one  standing  nearest  me  and  fired. 

The  instant  the  gun  cracked  there  was  a  scampering 
through  the  burnt  timber,  and  they  were  gone.  I  fired  two 
more  shots  after  them,  but  without  effect.  I  began  to  think 
that  we  were,  as  Chappell  had  said,  "hoodooed,"  or  that  the 
deer  were  bewitched.  I  went  to  where  my  mark  had  been 
standing  and  found  that  my  ball  had  struck  two  bushes,  the 
first  being  torn  almost  off.  I  discovered  pieces  of  deer  hair 
but  no  blood.  I  never  had  made  such  a  shot  in  my  life  be- 
fore, for  the  deer  had  stood  broadside,  not  over  seventy-five 
feet  away,  and  it  was  a  clear  miss. 

While  we  were  talking  the  matter  over,  a  large  buck 
came  to  the  edge  of  the  opening,  not  a  hundred  yards  below 
us.  He  stood  out  in  perfect  outline  with  his  head  erect,  his 
massive  antlers  gleaming  in  the  last  rays  of  the  setting  sun. 
His  large  eyes  were  like  coals  of  fire,  his  hair  was  on  end, 
for  it  was  the  rutting  season.  I  could  see  that  a  small  tree 
was  directly  in  our  line  of  sight,  but  one  step  would  clear 
away  this  trouble,  and,  as  I  moved  to  one  side,  raising  my 
gun,  the  buck  jumped  behind  a  tree  and  was  gone.  I  ran 
after  him,  hoping  to  get  one  shot,  but  he  had  disappeared,  and 
I  at  last  surely  began  to  think  I  was  doomed  to  disappoint- 
ment for  the  entire  trip.  These  two  sore  disappointments 
were  so  close  together  that  I  called  them  twins. 


272  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

We  ranged  the  pine  hills  far  and  wide,  and  finally  found 
ourselves  on  the  top  of  a  mountain.  Twilight  was  setting  in, 
but  we  were  determined  to  have  some  meat,  if  meat  was  to 
be  had,  so  we  kept  on  until  it  was  dark,  when  we  found  to  our 
dismay  that  we  were  on  the  rimrock.  Everything  soon  be- 
came the  same  color,  so  we  dismounted  and  led  our  horses, 
plodding  along  in  darkness.  We  tried  to  descend  at  a  dozen 
places,  each  one  proving  worse  than  the  last,  and  it  must  have 
been  at  least  nine  o'clock  when  we  succeeded  in  getting  down 
over  the  rocks  and  dead  trees.  As  our  camp  was  below  us  on 
the  creek,  another  hour  was  spent  getting  to  it,  and  we  again 
took  supper  without  fresh  meat.  That  five  men,  hunters, 
should  be  out  in  the  wilds  for  two  days  and  kill  nothing  was  a 
disgrace  to  the  party. 

The  next  day's  march  was  to  carry  us  into  the  heart  of 
our  hunting  ground  to  our  main  camp.  We  held  a  council, 
and  Chappell  and  Jennings,  who  knew  the  ground,  agreed  on 
the  location  of  the  camp.  Chappell  and  myself  then  started 
across  the  country,  eager  to  get  some  game,  as  we  now  began 
to  feel  the  need  of  fresh  meat.  The  afternoon  was  spent  in 
quest  of  black-tail  deer.  Creek  beds,  southern  hillsides, 
mountain  tops,  rimrocks  and  the  pine  forests  afforded  us  no 
opportunity  to  shoot,  and  when  our  party  reassembled  at 
the  night  camp  on  Ten  Sleep,  we  were  all  empty-handed. 
The  mountains  surrounded  us  on  the  north,  east  and  west, 
and  the  three  forks  of  the  Ten  Sleep  River  were  alive  with 
trout.  Signs  of  deer  and  elk  had  been  seen,  and  we  were  all 
sure  that  the  morrow  would  find  our  camp  well  supplied  with 
meat,  and  meat  in  abundance. 

While  we  sat  eating  our  supper  of  canned  food,  hot  bis- 
cuits and  coffee  under  the  towering  pines,  Cal  told  us  that 
our  supper  the  next  night  would  consist  principally  of  elk 
steak.    Chappell  declared  he  was  going  to  have  a  deer's  rib 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  273 

roasted,  while  Dicky  said  he  *'was  too  high-toned  for  such 
common  grub,  and  would  provide  some  mountain  grouse." 
A  school  of  trout,  which  Whitcomb  claimed  to  have  captured, 
he  informed  us  would  be  fried  for  supper.  We  had  placed 
our  tent  just  at  the  edge  of  the  heavy  timber,  so  that  the  game 
could  not  see  it,  and  our  mess  wagon  was  completely  hidden 
from  view.  A  clear  cold  spring  was  near  by,  where  the  elk 
came  to  drink.  Grass  was  plenty,  wood  abundant,  and  we 
were  now  in  a  real  hunter's  paradise.  At  a  short  distance, 
the  clear  waters  of  the  Ten  Sleep  River  were  dashed  into 
foam  and  countless  thousands  of  speckled  trout  were  to  be 
seen. 

The  evening  was  spent  in  preparation  for  the  great  to- 
morrow, when  our  camp  was  to  be  filled  with  elk,  deer  and 
the  fat  of  the  land.  We  arose  with  the  morning  sun  still 
behind  the  eastern  mountain.  Breakfast  was  soon  over,  and 
we  got  ready  for  the  chase.  Before  we  separated,  four  of 
us  agreed  to  meet  at  a  designated  mountain  spur  in  the  even- 
ing. We  hunted  without  adventure  the  whole  day,  and  when 
night  came,  assembled  around  the  supper  table  with  a  cover 
of  grouse  as  the  best  showing  of  the  day.  Of  course,  we  all 
knew  where  the  elk  had  gone,  and  were  going  to  take  them 
in  the  next  day.  After  supper  we  joined  in  a  great  plot  to  do 
the  elk  of  that  vicinity  bodily  injury.  The  boys  had  piled  up 
a  rick  of  pitch  pine,  the  flames  shot  up  almost  as  high  as  the 
trees,  and  the  moon  and  stars  shone  out  until  it  seemed  almost 
like  day.  All  at  once  there  was  a  flash  of  light  and  a  meteor 
shot  across  the  heavens,  leaving  a  track  of  fire  behind  it. 

After  our  hard  day's  hunt  we  lost  no  time  in  sleepless- 
ness, and  the  cry  of  the  owl  awoke  us  early  in  the  morning. 
Chappell  and  Dickey  took  their  course  to  the  north,  while  Cal 
Jennings  and  I  penetrated  Ten  Sleep  canyon,  which  we  found 
an  ideal  home  for  game.     However,  we  sighted  none,  and 


274  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

climbed  the  mountain  toward  the  south.  Finally  we  came  to 
the  divide,  where  we  dismounted  and  looked  over  the  coun- 
try. As  we  were  remounting,  Cal  caught  sight  of  a  moving 
object.  After  a  careful  scrutiny  we  discovered  several  oth- 
ers, and,  as  Cal  knew  there  were  no  cattle  in  that  country, 
we  felt  sure  that  our  long  time  of  hunting  was  now  to  be  re- 
warded. We  led  our  horses  down  the  mountain,  and  com- 
menced stalking  in  earnest,  for  we  could  see  fresh  signs, 
which  made  us  more  confident  that  our  chances  for  fresh 
meat  were  good. 

When  we  reached  the  creek,  we  watered  our  horses, 
drank  of  the  cold  stream,  and  found  that  the  water  reeds 
had  recently  been  eaten  close  to  the  earth.  Elk  signs  were 
abundant  and  the  band  had  gone  directly  toward  our  place  of 
discovery  on  the  mountain.  We  mounted  and  started  on  the 
run  around  a  foothill,  which  seemed  to  be  a  good  point  of 
observation.  We  dismounted,  tied  the  bridle  reins  to  our 
ponies  front  feet,  and  prepared  to  move  on  the  unsuspecting 
game.  As  we  crept  over  the  ground,  I  filled  the  old  Bullard 
to  overflowing  with  cartridges,  for  I  was  well  aware  that  I 
was  with  one  of  the  finest  game  shots  in  Wyoming,  and  was 
resolved  to  give  him  an  exhibition  of  my  skill  at  the  first  op- 
portunity. At  that  moment  I  saw  the  back  of  some  gray  ob- 
ject moving  slowly  to  our  left,  and  could  easily  have  driven 
a  ball  through  it.  Instead  of  firing,  I  called  Cal's  attention  to 
it.  Just  as  he  turned  to  look  the  old  steer  raised  his  head, 
gave  one  snort  anrd  started  away  down  the  mountain  side, 
accompanied  by  the  whole  drove. 

I  was  sorely  tempted  to  shoot  after  them,  for  we  were 
getting  desperate,  and  Cal  threw  down  his  old  white  hat  in 
profound  disgust.  We  swore  vengeance  on  the  next  living 
object,  should  it  be  cattle  or  game,  and  with  this  vow  set  out 
for  camp.     After  a  long,  weary  ride,  groping  through  dark 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  275 

woods,  we  reached  there  at  nine  o'clock,  having  killed  two 
blue  grouse  on  our  way.  Our  tired  horses  were  put  to  feed 
and  we  commenced  to  get  supper.  Of  course,  all  of  the  mem- 
bers of  the  company  had  seen  fresh  signs  of  game.  From 
eight  to  ten  square  miles  of  country  had  been  hunted  faith- 
fully without  success.  This  was  certainly  discouraging,  for 
the  snow  was  likely  to  fall  any  day  and  shut  us  in  for  the 
winter.  After  supper  I  got  sixteen  tail-feathers  out  of  the 
grouse,  put  them  in  my  hatband,  and  "made  medicine"  for 
the  next  day's  luck.  The  boys  all  took  some  of  the  feathers, 
and  we  turned  in  for  the  night,  tired  out  and  sleepy. 

Early  in  the  morning  Cal  and  I  started  out  together,  and 
I  now  proposed  to  take  the  second  rimrock.  I  had  noticed, 
when  crossing  a  high  divide  on  the  last  trip  we  made,  several 
fresh  signs  of  black-tail  deer.  We  started  for  a  high  range 
of  hills  between  the  east  and  west  forks  of  Ten  Sleep.  We 
traveled  until  our  horses  were  tired,  and  the  higher  up  we 
went,  the  more  signs  we  saw.  After  a  hard  effort  we  gained 
an  eminence  whence  we  could  survey  the  country. 

While  taking  observations,  I  saw  several  objects  about 
six  miles  to  the  west,  on  the  other  side  of  the  canyon,  but, 
as  we  had  no  glass,  we  concluded  not  to  go  after  them,  for 
our  experience  of  the  day  before  was  too  fresh  in  our  minds 
to  favor  such  chances.  We  started  down  a  slope  which  led 
us  to  the  main  canyon,  and  came  to  where  five  deer  had  just 
passed  down.  After  dismounting  and  tieing  our  horses,  we 
set  out  on  the  trail,  which  went  directly  toward  the  canyon. 
The  deer  had  been  feeding  leisurely  along,  cropping  the  rich 
bunch  grass. 

"If  I  believed  in  witchcraft  at  all,"  said  Cal,  "I  should 
believe  that  the  bad  spirit  had  taken  possession  of  me  this 
trip,  and  you  know  Chappell  is  certain  that  he  is  bewitched 
for  the  trip  ever  since  he  broke  his  ejector  at  Powder  River." 


276  ADVENTUJiES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

Cal,  who  was  just  then  above  me,  saw  a  large  doe  that 
was  out  of  my  sight,  and  raised  his  rifle.  The  clear  stinging 
report  woke  the  hills,  the  echoes  sounding  and  resounding 
for  miles  below.  We  hurried  to  the  spot,  a  hundred  yards 
away,  and  found  he  had  scored  a  clean  miss.  It  was  one  of 
those  unaccountable  and  unexplainable  misses,  which,  at 
times,  fall  to  the  lot  of  all  hunters.  The  deer  had  bounded 
down  the  chasm,  headlong,  tearing  rocks  and  dirt  in  their 
flight  as  they  sprang  like  mountain  sheep  until  they  reached 
the  depths  below.  We  remounted,  started  for  another  rim- 
rock  and  were  slowly  climbing  the  south  side  of  the  hill,  when 
we  found  another  trail  where  five  more  deer  had  gone  up. 
We  thought  this  was  our  last  chance. 

We  were  now  close  to  a  grove  of  jack-pine  trees,  and  as 
Cal  came  near  the  edge,  I  saw  him  begin  to  pull  at  his  Win- 
chester and  tumble  off  his  pony.  I  jumped  from  my  horse, 
gun  in  hand,  and  started  for  Cal,  who  had  already  fired  twice. 
As  these  shots  were  fired  through  bushes,  he  missed  his  game, 
and,  though  both  horses  started  to  run,  we  did  not  heed 
them.  Nothing  could  divert  us  from  deer.  I  now  gained  a 
good  inside  view  of  the  grove,  the  trees  being  low  and  far 
apart. 

One  doe  was  running  straight  up  the  hill  and  I  threw 
my  gun  to  my  shoulder  and  fired.  She  stood  still  and  I  knew 
she  was  hit.  Four  more  deer  started  at  right  angles  down 
the  hill,,  and  a  young  buck  received  a  broadsider,  which  land- 
ed him  quickly.  During  all  of  this  time  the  one  Thad  shot 
first  had  not  moved,  so  Cal  raised  his  Winchester  and  shot 
her  through  the  neck,  which  finished  her.  We  soon  had  her 
cleaned  and  secured  upon  Cal's  horse  behind  the  saddle,  he 
supposing  this  was  all  the  game  we  had.  I  started  for  the 
other  doe  and  found  it,  much  to  Cal's  delight  and  surprise. 
We  cleaned  this  one,  tied  it  on  my  horse  and  then  I  went  to 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  277 

the  place  where  the  buck  had  disappeared.  This  animal  was 
soon  found,  and  Cal  was  speechless  with  gratification  at  the 
turn  in  our  fortune. 

He  insisted  that  the  other  one  had  gotten  away  down 
the  rimrock,  but  I  was  confident  that  I  had  brought  him  also 
to  earth.  As  it  was  dark,  and  our  horses  were  heavily  loaded, 
we  concluded  to  wait  until  morning  before  we  searched  for 
him.  After  two  hours  of  hard  travel  over  logs  and  through 
bushes  and  trees,  we  could  see  the  bright  campfire  blazing  up 
among  the  tall  pines,  and  a  thrill  of  joy  crept  over  us  as  we 
neared  its  warmth.  We  closely  surveyed  the  camp  from  a 
distance,  to  see  if  any  game  adorned  it.  None  was  in  sight, 
so  we  rode  proudly  in  to  receive  the  congratulations  of  our 
comrades  and  started  our  first  venison  cooking  of  this  trip. 
Soon  the  gentle  zephyr  was  scented  with  the  aroma  of  the 
juicy  meat,  and  we  all  had  a  splendid  supper  of  liver,  steak, 
hot  biscuits,  fried  onions  and  roasted  potatoes,  with  an  abun- 
dance of  good  coffee. 

We  cut  away  some  limbs  and  hung  our  deer  as  high  as 
we  could  reach,  but  their  heads  and  shoulders  rested  on  the 
ground.  Cal  said  that  we  would  get  all  the  game  we  wanted 
now  as  we  had  a  start.  We  all  retired  late  to  rest,  but  were 
up  early  to  go  after  the  other  deer  and  to  look  for  the  others 
we  expected  to  kill.  In  the  old  snow  we  found  bear  tracks, 
and  those  of  a  mountain  lion  also,  but,  as  the  snow  was  al- 
most gone,,  we  could  not  track  them  far,  and  were  compelled 
to  leave  this  game  until  another  snow  should  fall.  When  we 
reached  the  scene  of  the  encounter  of  the  night  previous,  a 
myriad  of  magpies  were  devouring  our  deer.  We  went  to  the 
one  we  killed  the  night  before,  found  the  birds  were  eating 
its  insides,  so  we  cut  some  pine  boughs  and  filled  the  deer's 
body  with  them  to  prevent  the  birds  from  getting  into  it. 

I  now  started  to  look  for  some  signs  of  my  other  deer. 


278  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

I  went  first  and  found  the  place  I  had  seen  him  give  the  last 
bound.  Blood  was  in  his  trail  and  on  both  sides.  I  followed 
and  about  fifty  yards  beyond  found  a  fine  young  buck,  lying 
in  the  top  of  an  old  pine.  I  took  out  my  knife,  opened  him 
and  found  him  perfectly  fresh.  We  packed  the  two  deer  on 
the  pony  and  started.  Whitcomb  and  Dick  returned  to  camp, 
while  the  remainder  of  our  party,  started  out  after  elks.  We 
put  in  a  hard  afternoon  on  the  elk  trail,  following  it  for  miles, 
without  finding  them.  Returning  to  camp  at  last,  tired  and 
hungry,  we  resolved  to  try  another  part  of  country  on  the 
next  day.  In  order  to  change  our  luck,  we  made  medicine 
that  evening.    I  think  all  of  us  were  adorned  with  feathers.  , 

Early  in  the  morning,  before  the  sun  was  up,  Cal  set 
out  to  look  for  the  horses,  but  soon  came  down  the  hill  like 
a  race  horse,  saying  there  were  thirty-five  elks  in  the  park. 
The  expression  on  his  face  was  serious,  so  each  of  us  darted 
for  his  gun,  cartridge  belt  and  knife.  Some  of  us  were  only 
partially  dressed,  but  we  lost  no  time  in  answering  the  sum- 
mons. We  were  soon  where  the  elk  had  crossed.  In  the 
white  and  crisp  morning's  frost  were  tracks  of  cows  and 
calves.  A  large  bull  had  brought  up  the  rear  and  the  trail 
led  toward  the  large  body  of  timber  which  was  miles  in 
width.  After  following  to  this  point  we  held  a  council.  It 
was  decided  that  Cal  and  I  were  to  make  a  circle  to  the  north, 
and  if  we  came  on  the  band,  we  were  to  wait  for  the  others. 

When  we  had  gone  a  mile  we  came  to  the  south  end  of 
a  park,  where  the  whole  band  had  turned  and  started  north- 
ward, and,  to  our  surprise,,  we  found  no  hunters  in  pursuit. 
After  a  close  survey,  we  could  see  that  the  band  was  heading 
toward  Ten  Sleep  lake,  far  above  timber  line.  The  other 
boys  had  gone  to  get  breakfast,  but  Cal  and  I  decided  not  to 
eat  until  we  partook  of  elk  steak. 

We  started  over  dead  timber,  windfalls,  and  rocks,  slip- 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  279 

ping  and  sliding  along  until  we  came  to  where  the  mountain 
suddenly  gave  way  to  the  valley  below.  Amost  formidable 
hill  raised  prominently  on  the  other  side,  and  the  trail  was 
so  difficult  that  sometimes  we  were  scarcely  able  to  follow 
it  at  all.  At  last  we  came  to  an  opening  in  the  timber,  and  I 
told  Cal  I  would  make  a  small  circuit,  with  the  understanding 
that  neither  of  us  was  to  shoot  till  the  other  appeared. 

I  had  reached  a  point  from  whence  I  could  see  the  other 
mountain  side  covered  with  burnt  timber,  and  was  watching 
closely  for  elk,  when  Cal's  rifle  broke  the  stillness.  I  looked 
in  his  direction  and  could  see  one  black-tail  struggling  in 
death's  embrace  and  another  thundering  down  through  the 
burnt  timber.  I  quickly  threw  my  Bullard  to  my  face  and 
fired,  breaking  the  deer's  neck.  When  we  had  the  two  elks 
dressed  and  hung  up,  we  saw  that  the  others  had  taken  flight 
at  the  shot  and  had  darted  back  on  their  tracks.  This  gave 
us  a  straight  run  of  ten  miles  and  on  our  way  we  often  found 
where  they  had  rested  on  the  north  hillside  in  the  snow.  The 
day  was  warm,  and  we  pressed  them  as  fast  as  we  could  until 
we  came  to  the  east  fork  of  Ten  Sleep.  Here  they  wandered 
around  and  made  several  attempts  to  cross.  Finally  they 
broke  the  ice  higher  up,  crossed  and  started  for  a  high  moun- 
tain. 

We  sat  down  and  ate  the  two  biscuits  which,  with  the 
greater  part  of  a  blue  grouse,  I  had  crowded  into  my  pockets 
as  we  left  camp.  I  sat  down  on  the  bank  of  the  creek,  pro- 
duced my  eatables,  and  I  don't  believe  two  hunters  ever  en- 
joyed a  lunch  more  than  we  did  this.  By  this  time  I  was  so 
exhausted  that  I  began  to  feel  as  though  I  should  fall  by  the 
side  of  the  trail,  but  the  hope  that  we  would  soon  overtake 
the  elks  kept  me  stimulated  to  travel.  We  crossed  a  deep 
gorge,  and  started  up  a  long  mountain  side,  where  the  forest 
fires   of  last  year  had  destroyed  all  of  the  beautiful  green 


28o  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

foliage,  and  had  left  only  the  charred  bodies  of  the  pines.  But 
tender  grasses  had  come  again,  however,  with  the  spring, 
and  we  could  see  where  the  elks  had  eaten  the  sweet  mosses 
as  they  toiled  up  the  mountain. 

Heavy  perspiration  was  almost  blinding  me  and  I 
thought  I  had  gone  my  full  limit,  when  I  heard  the  crash  of  a 
broken  log  and  saw  the  whole  band  of  elks  charging  through 
the  timber  to  the  west.  Thinking  nothing  of  fatigue  and 
knowing  they  could  not  go  straight  up  the  rocks,  we  both 
started  down  the  mountain  like  a  pair  of  bloodhounds.  Our 
time  was  short,  if  we  were  to  capture  our  prize.  On  we  went, 
falling  over  logs,  tearing  through  the  brush,  until  we  reached 
the  bottom.  Our  game  had  just  crossed  the  stream,  and  was 
now  in  an  open  park. 

Cal  opened  fire  by  sending  a  ball  which  threw  up  the 
dirt  in  front  of  the  leader.  This  had  the  desired  effect, 
turned  the  cow  in  her  course,  and,,  as  she  swerved  down  the 
hill,  he  sent  another  ball  after  her.  Now  was  my  time.  I 
drew  a  full  bead  on  her  shoulder  and  fired,  and  she  reeled 
down  the  hill  like  a  drunken  man.  Our  rifles  banged  in  quick 
succession  and  the  elks  became  bewildered.  Cal  got  a  shell 
stuck  fast  in  his  gun  and  was  not  a  participant  in  the  battle 
from  that  time. 

We  killed  two  large  cows  and  wounded  two  bulls.  We 
dressed  the  cows  and  were  after  the  bulls,  our  course  taking 
us  through  the  worst  jungle  I  have  ever  seen.  Eventually 
we  found  where  they  had  climbed  up  the  broken  rocks  and 
fallen  timber,  until  they  had  reached  a  situation  where  it  was 
impossible  for  us  either  to  get  them  out,  or  to  take  a  horse 
where  we  could  get  at  them  at  all. 

The  excitement  was  now  over,  our  day's  work  was  done 
and  we  were  ten  miles  from  camp.  I  cannot  describe  our 
return  trip  to  camp,  but  we  reached  it  about  ten  o'clock  at 


o  > 

M  CO 

1-9  « 

«  H 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  28l 

night,  tired  and  bloody  and  famished.  The  elks  fully  filled 
out  our  load  of  game,  making  our  trophies  two  elks  and  seven 
deer.  We  soon  forgot  how  tired  we  were  as  the  boys  got  us 
a  good  supper.  Having  secured  our  game,  we  started  back 
to  Buffalo  and  reached  there  two  days  later,  after  a  delight- 
ful journey. 


282  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 


Big  Game  Falls  Before  Us. 

Our  annual  hunt  for  1891  was  looked  forward  to  very 
eagerly  and  our  plans  were  laid  to  sfart  from  Buffalo,  Wyo- 
ming, early  in  October.  The  morning  arrived  and  found  us 
all  on  the  move  at  an  early  hour.  Cal  Jennings,  R.  R. 
Woods,  Ed.  Chappell,  Mr.  Fender  and  myself  comprised  the 
party.  Thoroughly  equipped  with  two  four-horse  teams  and 
saddle  horses,  we  set  out.  We  reached  the  mountain  and 
found  that  snow  was  falling,  making  it  doubly  hard  to  climb, 
but  we  slowly  ascended  the  almost  perpendicular  trail  until 
until  we  reached  the  top,  where  we  camped  at  an  altitude  of 
8,570  feet.  The  first  night  was  spent  at  the  old  Woodward 
sawmill,  with  the  snow  about  two  inches  deep,  and  it  was 
very  cold. 

Our  first  piece  of  bad  luck  was  the  death  of  Mr.  Chap- 
pell's  saddle-horse.  The  poor  animal  was  sick  only  about 
two  hours,  the  hard  ride  of  the  morning  having  brought  on 
something  like  congestion  of  the  lungs.  We  built  a  fire 
around  him  and  gave  him  a  pint  of  brandy,  but  he  finally 
died  without  a  struggle. 

Our  contemplated  route  lay  over  a  country  remarkable 
for  its  green  pine  forests  interwoven  with  beautiful  parks  of 
wild  bunch  grass,  some  of  them  being  miles  in  extent.  As 
Mr.  Jennings  was  best  acquainted  with  the  road,  he  took  the 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  283 

lead,  and  Mr.  Fender,  an  old  hunter  of  Nebraska,,  followed 
with  four  as  good  cayuses  as  ever  stretched  a  tug.  Chap- 
pell  rode  Mr.  Jennings'  saddle  mare,  so  our  scouting  party, 
Chappell,  Woods  and  myself,  were  once  more  in  the  lead. 

We  kept  up  a  lively  pace  until  noon,  when  we  camped 
on  the  banks  of  a  beautiful  little  stream.  After  dinner  our 
road  turned  off  the  main  thoroughfare.  We  had  not  pro- 
ceeded far  on  this  when  Mr.  Woods  and  myself  came  upon 
two  fresh  lion-tracks  which  crossed  the  road.  We  dis- 
mounted, tied  our  horses,  and,  with  our  rifles,  proceeded  to 
hunt  through  the  timber  and  rocks. 

After  we  had  made  a  circuit  of  several  miles,  the  tracks 
of  a  third  lion  appeared.  We  came  to  a  windfall  about  a  mile 
square,  and,  through  and  around  this  terrible  jungle,  we  cir- 
cled three  times,  slipping  and  falling  between  logs  repeat- 
edly. The  tracks  crossed  and  recrossed  until  we  became  so 
confused  that  we  could  no  longer  follow  them,,  and  their 
chasings  of  rabbits  made  it  all  the  more  difficult.  Having 
wasted  five  hours  of  toil,  we  were  obliged  to  abandon  the 
hunt. 

After  a  long  ride  we  found  that  our  party  had  pulled 
out  for  Canyon  creek.  Just  as  we  were  crossing  this  branch, 
I  saw  fiye  black-tail  deer  bounding  toward  us  on  a  timber 
ridge.  We  halted  and  finally  I  could  see  that  the  rear  one 
was  wounded,  so  we  knew  that  other  hunters  were  in  the 
field.  At  this  point  we  made  a  curve  and  went  back  over 
the  hill,  bearing  from  south  to  north  and,  going  in  the  direc- 
tion of  our  party,  followed  them.  When  we  came  to  the 
trail  we  separated,  hoping  by  this  means  to  cut  off  their  re- 
treat or  get  a  running  shot  at  them  as  they  passed  northward. 

I  went  across  a  beautiful  park  and  kept  a  sharp  lookout 
for  the  deer,  as  I  thought  they  would  come  my  way.  I  had 
now  reached  a  deep  canyon  and  had  dismounted  to  let  my 


284  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

horse  rest.  Suddenly  the  clear  report  of  Woods'  rifle  broke 
the  stillness.  Echoing  and  reechoing  followed  until  the 
last  sound  rumbled  along  the  mountain  and  died  away.  The 
sharp  cry  of  an  eagle  made  me  turn  my  head  in  time  to  see 
the  bird  dash  by  like  an  arrow,  but  not  a  deer  appeared. 
I  kept  on  straining  my  eyes  to  see  the  glossy  coats  of  deer 
gliding  through  the  forest  below  me,  but  was  continually 
doomed  to  disappointment,  so  I  mounted  my  horse  and 
started  for  camp. 

Gaining  the  top  of  a  mountain  I  could  again  see  the 
summit  of  the  mountain  that  I  had  named  last  year.  Far 
beyond  v/ere  the  headwaters  of  Ten  Sleep  and  Paint  Rock. 
Hurriedly  I  pressed  on  until  I  gained  the  north  side  of  the 
mountain,  finding  the  snow  so  deep  and  cold  that  my  horse 
could  scarcely  keep  his  feet.  I  dismounted  and  led  the  way, 
taking  a  course  which  I  thought  would  bring  me  out  at  the 
Canyon  Creek  crossing.  Hungry  and  tired  I  found  the 
camp,  but  all  the  boys  had  gone  hunting.  I  prepared  sup- 
per and  was  doing  some  good  work  when  Woods  came  in 
exhausted.  He  had  not  even  a  fawn  to  show  for  his  inter- 
view with  the  band  of  deer. 

The  boys  returned  to  camp,  Cal  coming  in  last,  and  I 
could  see  by  the  blood  showing  around  his  finger  nails  that 
he  had  killed  something.  He  admitted  having  secured  a 
couple  of  black-tail  deer  and  we  paid  him  the  honor  of  mak- 
ing the  first  kill.  We  spent  the  night  here,  and,  in  the  morn- 
ing, while  Cal  and  Mr.  Fender  went  after  the  slain  deer, 
the  rest  of  us  oiled  the  wagons,  broke  camp,  and  started  for 
the  middle  branch  of  Lee  Creek.  After  settling  on  a  loca- 
tion for  a  camp,  Woods,  Chappell  and  I  took  our  horses  to 
see  if  we  could  also  locate  the  elks  for  tomorrow's  hunt. 
We  set  out  on  a  brisk  gallop,  dashing  over  sagebrush, 
stones  and  numerous  other  obstacles.     At  the  south  of  old 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  285 

Baldy  we  agreed  to  separate,  each  one  choosing  his  direction, 
planning  to  meet  at  Five  Points,  as  our  camp  was  just  be- 
low that  place. 

After  a  weary  climb,  I  came  out  upon  a  high  woody 
divide  which  overlooked  a  tributary  of  Ten  Sleep.  Resting 
my  horse,  I  rounded  the  steep  rimrock,  and  started  to  cross 
a  deep  gorge  in  the  mountains.  The  green  hemlocks  were 
thick,  and  the  snow  was  deep,  but  not  frozen  on  this  side. 
Presently  I  crossed  the  trail  made  by  thirty  elks.  They  were 
headed  straight  for  Ten  Sleep  canyon,  the  trail  being  at 
least  three  days  old.  I  passed  along  and  turned  in  the  direc- 
tion of  Five  Points,  but  was  soon  compelled  to  abandon  the 
saddle,  as  the  ground  became  too  steep  and  rugged  for 
horseback  riding.  Having  failed  in  my  attempt  to  cross 
the  stream,  I  again  started  up  the  mountain  and  soon  came 
upon  another  elk  trail  made  by  about  fifteen  cows  and 
calves.  They  had  forced  a  passage  across  and  I  followed. 
After  carefully  surveying  all  signs,  I  concluded  the  trail 
must  have  made  the  day  before,  so  I  turned  away,  after 
learning  their  direction,  which  I  was  certain  was  the  same 
as  that  of  the  first  band. 

I  was  now  gaining  the  second  hill,  which  I  was  sure 
v/ould  lead  me  to  Five  Points.  Here  I  soon  found  a  fresh 
trail  of  seven  elks  that  was  going  directly  in  the  course 
that  I  was  traveling,  the  trail  evidently  being  not  more  than 
an  hour  old.  As  I  pressed  on  and  upward  I  was  just  about 
clear  of  the  heavy  timber,,  when  a  rifle  shot  rang  out,  fol- 
lowed by  another  and  yet  another,  until  nine  successive 
shots  had  broken  the  stillness  which  had  been  so  monot- 
onous all  day.  Every  moment  I  expected  to  see  some  old 
lead  cow  with  expanded  nostrils  plunge  through  the  forest 
on  her  back  trail. 

I  mounted  my  horse  and  shot  forward.     I  soon  came 


286  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

Upon  a  cross  trail,  where  the  elks  had  plunged  down  the 
other  side  like  an  avalanche,  falling  over  logs,  jumping  and 
plunging  headlong.  It  was  useless  to  follow  them  now, 
so  I  started  for  camp.  When  on  the  rimrock  I  caught  sight 
of  a  cow  as  she  sped  past  a  small  opening  about  three  hun- 
dren  yards  away.  I  dashed  after  her  at  the  top  of  my  speed, 
urging  Blackhawk  at  every  bound.  As  I  came  to  the  preci- 
pice I  saw  three  cows  and  a  calf  dash  around  the  rimrock 
and  disappear.  But  I  rapidly  followed,  jumping  ditches, 
logs  and  rocks  until  I  gained  the  bottom,  which  opened  into 
a  park. 

Here  I  saw  a  cow,  which  was  among  the  rocks  far  up  in 
the  timber,  turn  and  start  back.  Leaving  my  horse,  I  ran 
through  the  trees,  keeping  an  open  place  in  view,  hoping 
that  she  would  pass  that  way,  but,,  instead  of  doing  so,  she 
turned  again  and  took  her  first  course,  which  would  bring 
her  out  right  at  our  camp.  I  remounted  and  followed  as 
fast  as  I  could  until  presently  I  found  myself  in  a  windfall 
so  dense  that  it  was  impossible  to  proceed.  Upon  my  re- 
turn to  camp  I  learned  that  our  teamsters  had  seen  the  elk 
pass  within  five  hundred  yards.  It  was  almost  night,  so 
we  contented  outselves  by  planning  our  program  for  the 
next  day. 

As  this  spot  was  to  be  our  permanent  camp,  we  earnest- 
ly set  to  work  to  make  ourselves  fully  comfortable.  Our 
large  Sibley  tent  was  soon  set  up  in  a  beautiful  little  nook 
close  to  some  evergreens,  and  we  filled  it  a  foot  deep  with 
hemlock,  spruce  and  juniper  boughs,  the  mingling  of  their 
odors  giving  out  a  delightful  perfume.  Every  man 
worked  with  a  will,  and  all  preparations  were  speedily  made. 
Then,  after  a  supper  of  tenderloin  venison,  potatoes,  onions, 
honey,  biscuit,  coffee  and  plums,  we  sat  smoking  the  peace- 
pipe,  and  speculated  on  the  location  of  the  band  of  forty- 
five  elks. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  287 

A  sound  sleep  made  us  eager  for  the  day's  sport.  Our 
horses  were  soon  fed  and  saddled.  After  a  splendid  break- 
fast, we  started  up  the  divide.  When  we  arrived  at  the  top, 
we  took  different  routes,  but  the  whole  day  passed  and  we 
all  came  home  empty-handed.  Fender  had  seen  two  bears 
and  had  come  across  a  new  partner  who  was  hunting  in  the 
mountains,  and  who  stayed  all  night  with  us.  The  next  day 
Mr.  Woods  made  a  splendid  run,  and,  by  a  flank  movement, 
bagged  two  black-tail  deer,  claiming  second  honors  for  this. 
The  rest  of  the  party  had  a  hard  day  and  accomplished 
nothing. 

That  evening  I  told  Cal  I  believed  our  old  camp  would 
be  a  good  place  to  visit,  so  we  concluded  to  visit  it  and  took 
that  course  and  rode  directly  to  the  spring,  to  find  that 
some  forty  head  of  elks  had  watered  there.  In  the  night  we 
took  the  trail  which  led  directly  through  the  dense  woods 
and  deep  snow  toward  the  mountains.  We  carefully  fol- 
lowed the  trail  for  five  or  six  miles,  until  we  could  see  in 
the  distance,  a  large  south  hillside  with  a  dense  growth  of 
burnt  timber.  Cal  said  that  the  band  of  elks  of  which  we 
were  in  pursuit  might  be  lying  on  the  south  side  sunning 
themselves,  and  that  we  must  be  very  careful  or  we  would 
not  get  a  shot  at  them. 

So  as  to  make  little  noise,  we  tied  our  horses  to  the 
first  trees,  and  proceeded  up  the  mountain.  As  we  were 
rounding  a  large  slide  of  rocks  I  discovered  that  the  trail 
divided,  about  half  the  number  going  to  the  right  while  the 
other  half  turned  to  the  left.  Cal  was  on  my  right  and  we 
were  each  straining  every  nerve,  perspiring  from  every 
pore,  when  our  elks  broke  cover.  Cal's  old  Winchester 
spoke  to  one  on  the  right  just  as  I  saw  a  handsome  cow 
struggling  to  gain  the  top  of  the  divide. 

I  threw  myself  down  and  fired  at  fully  three  hundred 


288  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

yards.  She  reeled  to  the  left  and  I  fired  again,  a  shot  which 
stopped  her.  My  new  Bullard  hissed  a  flame  of  fire,  her 
neck  cracked,  and  she  dropped  like  a  stone.  Three  balls  had 
struck  her,  two  of  which  would  have  been  fatal.  She  was 
a  barren  young  cow,  and  had  a  lovely  skin,  which  I  saved 
in  honor  of  my  new  rifle.  Cal  now  joined  me,  and  we  fol- 
lowed the  band  on  their  reckless  stampede,  but  saw  them  no 
more.  After  taking  out  the  entrails  of  the  elk,  we  started 
for  home,  but  struck  other  trails  which  we  followed  toward 
the  main  Paint  Rock  canyon. 

After  riding  several  miles,  we  came  to  the  heavy  trail 
of  perhaps  sixty  elks.  Farther  along  on  our  way  we  came 
to  another  trail  of  perhaps  forty  or  fifty,  all  going  in  the 
same  direction.  Here  we  held  a  council  of  war,  deciding 
at  last  to  go  home  and  return  in  the  morning  with  our  full 
force.  On  our  homeward  way,  we  encountered  the  most  vil- 
lainous route  I  ever  traveled,  and  were  compelled  to  sur- 
mount what  seemed  to  be  at  first  sight  impassable  barriers. 
Several  times  our  horses  fell  over  rocks  and  trees.  I  gave 
a  sigh  of  relief  when  we  approached  camp  and  found  all 
the  other  boys  had  arrived. 

Chappell  had  got  a  shot  at  a  deer,  but  so  far  off,  and 
through  such  terrible  brush,  that  the  bullet  was  worn  out 
before  it  reached  the  deer.  Woods  had  crippled  five  or  six 
of  them  and  Fender  had  scared  a  doe  into  another  territory. 
Cal  and  I  then  sprung  our  cow  elk  on  them  with  the  addi- 
tional statement  of  seeing  six  or  seven  hundred  more  tracks, 
all  of  which  we  knew  were  not  more  than  a  mile  from 
where  we  left  them. 

Early  on  the  next  morning  we  were  in  the  saddle,  our 
horses  flying  across  the  large  parks,  making  a  bee  line  to- 
ward where  we  had  seen  the  trails  the  day  before.  Like  a 
company  of  cavalrymen  we  went  on  until  we    found    the 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  289 

trail.  We  followed  this  for  six  or  eight  miles  and  I  could 
see  that  every  fellow  wanted  to  be  in  at  the  killing.  As  we 
approached  a  large  body  of  timber  on  the  south  side,  I  pro- 
posed we  get  off  and  lead  our  horses,  in  order  to  go  as 
carefully  as  possible,  so  that  the  elks  would  not  see  us  first. 

I  went  ahead,  and  slowly,  until  I  could  see  that  we 
were  almost  at  the  top.  Here  the  band  had  scattered  and 
were  feeding  leisurely  along,  cutting  the  tender  vegeta- 
tion and  winding  through  every  little  park.  I  came  to 
several  large  bull  tracks  and  they  seemed  to  be  in  the  rear, 
which  showed  me  very  plainly  that  the  rutting  season  was 
over,  and  the  old  cow  had  taken  her  position  at  the  front. 
As  we  were  now  up  the  hill  and  were  nearly  exhausted 
from  climbing,  we  mounted  our  horses  and  tried  to  ride 
very  slowly.  Woods  was  in  the  lead,  I  called  the  boys  to- 
gether and  told  them  we  were  going  too  fast. 

After  going  two  hundred  yards  we  came  to  where  the 
herd  had  been  lying  down.  Woods  declared  we  had  scared 
them  and  that  the  jig  was-  up  for  today.  After  looking 
around  we  could  see  where  some  had  been  running,  so  I 
made  a  circle  and  saw  that  about  forty  elks  had  come  into 
the  main  herd,  and  that  this  was  the  reason  for  their  get- 
ting up  at  that  time  of  day.  I  noticed  by  the  hair  on  the 
trees  in  several  places,  that  they  had  stopped  there  to  rub 
themselves.  We  all  advanced  with  eyes  and  ears  open  to 
catch  the  first  object  that  moved.  Woods  was  still  ahead 
and  on  our  right.  Every  one  was  doing  his  best  to  be 
noiseless  and  to  move  along  as  fast  as  he  could. 

To  our  right,  fully  one  hundred  yards  ahead,  the  old 
Bullard  carried  by  Woods  startled  us  with  a  bang  that  made 
the  mountains  ring.  With  one  mighty  crash  about  a  hun- 
dred and  forty  elks  were  tearing  everything  before  them  in 
their  fright.    Woods  was  the  only  man  who  got  a  shot.    We 


290  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

all  ran  back  after  our  horses  and  followed  the  running  elk. 
They  hurriedly  fell,  rolled  and  tumbled  down  the  mountain. 
The  trail  was  torn  to  atoms  and  the  old  rotten  trees  in  their 
way  were  smashed  and  felled.  It  was  absolutely  the  steep- 
est trail  I  ever  took  a  pony  over.  Cal  made  a  crosscut  on  the 
band,  intercepted  them  and  got  shots  at  two,  both  of  which 
he  hit.  Woods  gave  chase  to  a  large  bull  which  he 
wounded. 

Finally  the  band  crossed  the  headwaters  of  the  main 
Ten  Sleep  and  started  through  a  windfall.  No  horse  could 
follow  them  there,  so  Cal  left  the  trail  and  started  for  camp. 
We  followed  on  Cal's  trail  and  came  to  the  spot  where  he 
had  killed  a  fine  black-tail  deer.  I  warned  the  boys  that  we 
were  now  on  a  trail  that  they  would  long  remember.  We 
made  a  fair  start,  but  had  to  dismount  and  drive  our  horses. 
Several  times  I  thought  they  would  break  their  necks  by 
falling.  I  will  not  try  to  describe  this  trip,  but  merely  say 
it  was  even  worse  than  we  had  found  it  on  the  day  before. 
We  reached  camp  about  nine  o'clock  and  found  Cal  getting 
supper. 

Early  on  the  next  morning.  Fender,  who  was  an  old 
hunter  and  a  fine  shot,  started  with  me  after  the  cow  elk 
with  two  ponies.  We  resolved  to  bring  it  in  whole  on  a 
travoise,  but  for  fear  we  might  not  succeed  in  this  at- 
tempt, we  took  my  4x5  Hawkeye  camera  along,  in  order 
to  at  least  get  a  photograph.  When  we  neared  the  spot,  our 
dog  saw  something  run  across  a  park  and  followed  after  it, 
but  soon  came  back  with  his  tail  down.  We  saw  by  the  size 
of  its  track  that  it  was  a  huge  mountain  lion.  I  was  afraid 
the  elk  had  been  torn  to  pieces,  but  the  lion  had  only  com- 
menced to  sample  the  kidney  fat  when  we  disturbed  him. 

While  we  pulled  the  cow  down  the  hill,  the  magpies  and 
the  camp-robbers  flew  in  every  direction,  seeking  by  their 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  29 1 

screams  to  scare  us  away.  Our  next  move  was  to  make  a 
travoise.  After  carefully  selecting  two  long  tamarack  sap- 
lings, we  bound  them  together  with  ropes  and  attached  a 
crosspiece  on  which  to  fasten  the  elk.  Finally  we  were 
ready  to  start,  and  what  a  start  it  was.  One  pony  was  first 
hitched  on,  then  two  more  ahead  of  him,  but  the  animals  ut- 
terly refused  to  pull  such  a  load.  At  last  we  managed  to 
set  out,,  going  over  stones,  trees,  logs  and  brush,  until  we 
reached  the  bottom,  where  the  load  lodged  against  a  big 
pine  log.  Over  this  log  we  could  not  get,  so  we  had  to  give 
up  our  plan.  To  reach  camp  we  had  hundreds  of  worse 
places  to  cross. 

After  we  had  photographed  the  elk,  we  soon  cut  it  up, 
packed  the  ponies  and  started  for  camp.  Our  delay  had 
made  us  late,  but  when  we  got  on  top  of  the  divide  our  pack 
horses  were  working  well,  and  as  we  were  nearing  Five 
Points  I  took  a  snap-shot  of  them,  just  as  the  sun  was 
dropping  down  over  the  mountains.  We  reached  camp 
eventually  and  piled  up  our  game,  which  comprised  one  elk 
and  seven  deer.  Cal  Jennings  and  Mr.  Woods  had  killed 
the  deer,  and  the  elk  was  credited  to  me.  This  was  the  end 
of  our  Lee  Creek  hunt.  The  next  day  we  pulled  out  for 
Canyon  Creek  crossing,  where  we  camped. 

While  traveling  toward  the  Canyon  Creek  we  went 
ahead  on  the  saddle  horses  and  carefully  hunted  over  some 
fine  country,  but  failed  to  even  make  a  score.  When  we 
reached  Canyon  Creek  it  was  still  early  in  the  afternoon, 
so  we  decided  to  make  one  more  effort  for  game.  Mr. 
Woods,  who  had  left  us  on  account  of  urgent  business,  had 
lost  the  best  part  of  the  hunt,,  and  all  of  us  missed  him. 
Jennings  and  Chappell  left  Fender  and  myself  to  pursue 
whatever  course  or  direction  we  thought  best,  but,  as  there 
appeared  to  be  no  choice,  we  took  the  west  side  of  the 
mountain  while  they  took  the  east. 


292  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

The  farther  we  went,  the  thicker  was  the  timber.  The 
snow  in  many  places  was  hard  enough  to  hold  our  weight, 
but  in  many  places  there  was  no  snow  at  all.  I  found  a 
large  buck  and  three  doe  tracks  and  trailed  them  until  Mr. 
Fender  got  quite  a  distance  ahead  of  me.  The  standing 
burned  timber  was  so  very  thick  I  could  scarcely  get  through 
it.  The  small  poles,  all  as  black  as  coal,  stood  up  like 
straws  in  a  field.  We  were  keeping  a  sharp  lookout  for 
deer  on  every  hand  and  I  expected  momently  to  see  them 
bounding  off. 

We  started  toward  the  summit  just  as  we  heard  Cal's 
Winchester  bellowing,  until  nine  shots  had  been  fired.  I  kept 
a  sharp  lookout,  for  I  felt  sure  that  the  game  was  coming  our 
way.  Presently  a  monstrous  bull  came  directly  toward 
Fender,  and  I  could  see  two  cows  following  at  a  distance  of 
a  hundred  paces.  The  bull  came  rushing  on  with  his  head 
raised,  smashing  through  the  trees.  The  crash  of  Fender's 
gun  started  him  westward,  and  down  the  mountain.  The 
cows  Vv^ere  gone  too,  although  Fender  fired  at  them,  for  no 
ball  could  get  far  through  the  trees. 

I  was  sure  the  bull  was  unhurt,  and,  throwing  my  Bul- 
lard  in  line  with  his  shoulder,,  I  sent  a  hissing  messenger 
after  him.  Quickly  I  shot  again,  and  this  time  saw  a  hand- 
ful of  hair  fly  from  his  side.  His  back  gave  a  downward 
hitch  and  I  stopped,  for  I  knew  he  was  doomed.  His  great 
body  swayed  from  side  to  side  as  he  pressed  on  through  the 
burned  timber,  striking  his  antlers,  which  were  badly 
shattered  from  the  many  hard  battles  he  had  hitherto 
fought.  He  reeled  about.  The  blood  spurted  from  his  side 
upon  the  trees.  He  tried  to  make  one  more  effort  to  go 
on,  but  his  knees  trembled,  and  he  fell  headlong  with  a 
crash,  and  tumbled  over  against  the  trees.  His  eyes  rolled 
in  their  sockets,  his  massive  teeth  ground  together  and  ht 
yielded  up  his  life. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  293 

After  taking  out  his  entrails  and  cutting  him  up  I 
found  two  bullets  from  Cal's  rifle  in  his  carcass.  Cal  had 
made  a  lucky  shot  through  the  timber  and  had  killed  a  cow. 
We  now  had  all  the  meat  we  could  haul.  After  a  hard 
evening's  work  we  got  to  camp  about  nine  o'clock,  tired 
out.  Our  hunt  was  now  over.  The  busy  life  of  the  world 
again  called  us  to  resume  its  activities.  Therefore  early  on 
the  next  morning  we  packed  up  the  belongings  of  our  camp 
and  started  for  Buffalo.  Our  teams  were  loaded  to  their 
full  capacity.  Upon  our  arrival  at  our  home  we  were  wel- 
comed by  a  host  of  friends  whom  we  loaded  down  with  elk 
and  deer  meat.  The  next  morning  we  parted  as  hunters 
until  September,  1892,  when  we  all  agreed  to  meet  and  join 
in  the  excitements  and  the  pleasures  of  the  chase  again. 


294  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 


OUB  Beothebs  op  thb  Forest— Lost  to  the  outside  world— birds— re  d  deer- 
animal  speech— gray  wolf— elk— rviffed  grouse— a  splendid   specimen. 

As  we  penetrate  the  massive  openings  of  the  great 
forests  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,,  whose  towering  pines  stand 
like  sentinels,  we  are  completely  lost  persons  to  the  outside 
world.  In  these  forests  nature  is  most  beautiful  and  won- 
derful and  prodigal.  Here  unite  the  soft  love-notes  of  birds, 
wooing  their  mates,  the  chattering  of  the  "camp-robber," 
Both  commingle  with  the  "who,  who,"  of  the  cat  owl,  loftily 
perched  in  the  top  of  a  pine.  Down  upon  this  denizen  of  the 
night  presently  a  great  bald  eagle  makes  a  swoop,  startling 
the  owl  from  his  meditations.  The  cry  of  the  eagle,  thrown 
out  as  the  owl  escapes  down  the  canyon,  is  taken  up  by  the 
crows  who  give  battle  to  the  owl.  The  echoes  multiply, 
sink  away,  rise  again,  and  finally  die  away  to  utter  silence. 
In  this  grand  canyon,  where  we  are  now  reposing,  which 
is  covered  by  a  foliage  so  dense  that  the  sun's  rays  have 
never  penetrated  the  dark  recesses  of  the  shady  nooks,  we 
are  not  alone.  The  limbs  of  the  ancient  trees  are  robed 
with  moss  of  a  greenish-gray  tint.  As  silently  as  shadows, 
we  see  a  family  of  red  deer  (cervus  Virginianus)  pass 
rapidly  along  over  the  carpet  of  pine  needles  centuries  old. 
Noiselessly  each  one  stoops  down  to  take  a  tuft  of  rich 
bunch  grass.  Then  the  head,  with  ears  thrown  forward, 
is  raised  to  detect  the  faintest  sound,  the  beauiful  brown 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  295 

eyes  scanning  every  bush  and  tree.  Now  come  the  fawns, 
bounding  with  delight,  scarcely  ruffling  a  bough  in  their 
progress. 

Suddenly  a  cry  falls  on  their  ears  like  a  death  knell. 
Their  blood  is  frozen  in  their  veins  by  fear,  as  again  that  low, 
plaintive  wail  smites  their  ears.  The  hunter,,  too,  well  un- 
derstands this  baneful  sound.  It  is  the  female  cougar 
(felis  concolor)  calling  her  lord  to  join  her  in  the  chase  for 
blood.  The  fawns  even  understand jhecrVvcaitdjteBfcling, 
huddle  against  their  elders.  ppRP*^ 

The  mother,  who  is  always  prepared  for  the  worst,  runs 
to  a  thicket  of  bushes,  and,  with  a  low  warning  appeal  to 
her  loved  ones,  who  always  understand,  secretes  herself. 
When  the  youngsters  are  hidden,  and  are  as  still  as  statues, 
the  parents  bound  away  in  an  opposite  direction  to  decoy 
the  dreaded  enemy  from  the  neighborhood  of  their  young. 
The  cougars  follow  them  as  rapidly  as  possible.  When  they 
are  thus  drawn  far  away  from  the  hiding  place  of  their  off- 
spring, the  deer  increase  their  speed  and  the  cougars  are  left 
discomfited  at  a  safe  distance  from  the  fawns,  whose  par- 
ents return  to  them  by  a  circuitous  route. 

It  is  my  opinion  that  all  animals  have  power  of  audible 
speech.  Their  vocabulary  may  not  be  extensive,  but  it  an- 
swers the  purpose.  When  a  storm  is  gathering,  the  large 
gray  wolf  (canis  occidentalis)  of  the  plains  goes  to  a  high 
point  and  utters  a  dismal,  prolonged  howl,  which  is  soon 
answered  by  all  the  wolves  within  his  hearing.  He  is  call- 
ing his  band  together  to  pull  down  a  horse,  steer,  or  other 
larger  game,  that  all  may  have  food  before  the  storm 
breaks.  The  horses  and  cows  of  the  plains  well  know  what 
the  direful  cry  means,  and  bound  away  at  highest  speed  as 
soon  as  they  hear  the  call  for  blood. 

The  mother  antelope  with  one  word  secretes  her  off- 


296  ADVENTURES   OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

Spring  under  a  sagebush,  believing  it  to  be  safe  when  it  is 
out  of  sight,  and  rushes  away.  When  the  danger  is  re- 
moved, she  returns,  and  one  call  brings  it  forth.  All  young 
animals  are  obedient  to  the  mother's  call,  for  there  is  no 
false  word  or  note  in  the  language  of  animals. 

When  the  hunter  has  been  stalking  a  band  of  elks  for 
miles  through  the  dense  forest,  and,  being  at  some  dis- 
tance behind  them,  finds  eventually  that  they  have  lain 
down,  he  always  discovers  that  the  old  cow  leader  is  in  a 
position  to  look  backward  along  the  trail.  The  instant  this 
ever-faithful  leader  detects  the  approach  of  a  hunter,  she 
gives  a  sharp  whistle  as  a  danger  signal,  and  the  entire  band 
at  once  bounds  away  from  the  intruder.  None  wait,  even 
an  instant,  to  see  if  it  be  a  false  alarm,  for  there  is  never 
any  doubt,  uncertainly  or  deception. 

The  American  ruflfed  grouse  has  probably  been  more 
discussed  than  any  other  bird  of  the  west.  The  grouse  is 
always  a  favorite  bird  with  the  sportsman,  and  its  habits 
are  governed  largely  by  existing  circumstances.  With  the 
eye  of  an  eagle,  the  cunning  of  a  fox,  the  carriage  of  a 
queen,  the  plumage  of  a  peacock,  it  has  the  boldness  of  a 
lion.  It  is  a  wild  adventurer  who  unconcernedly  penetrates 
the  deepest  forest,  and  depends  upon  the  unbroken  wilder- 
ness for  its  daily  bread.  This  grouse  is  an  inveterate  wan- 
derer, for  I  have  seen  him  in  Pennsylvania,  Ohio,  Illinois, 
Wisconsin,  Dakota,  Wyoming  and  Montana. 

I  have  watched  a  male  stand  on  his  tiptoes  upon  an  old 
log,  and,  with  an  inflated  breast,  upon  which  he  beats  with 
his  wings,  begin  to  play  the  long  roll,,  thumping  faster  and 
faster,  until  the  vibrations  sounded  like  a  long  roll  of  drums. 
Some  sportsmen  contend  that  the  grouse  beats  upon  the  log 
with  his  wings  to  make  the  sound.  I  have,  however,  care- 
fully watched  him  with  a  field  glass  from  a  distance  of  sixty 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  297 

yards,  and  have  seen  him  expand  his  chest,  as  does  the 
athlete,  and  thus  make  his  drum,  for  the  calls  which  set  the 
forest  in  a  whirl,  and  notifies  his  sweetheart  of  his  presence. 

How  to  kill  the  ruifed  grouse  is  a  topic  upon  which 
every  sportsman  has  an  opinion.  When  I  was  a  boy  I 
used  to  go  into  the  Ohio  beech  woods  with  a  little,  coarse- 
haired  terrier  and  wait  until  I  heard  him  bark.  Then  I  be- 
gan to  whistle,  for  I  thought  that  under  the  then  existing 
circumstances,  the  grouse  would  take  no  notice  of  me.  In- 
variably, I  found  this  beautiful  bird  intently  watching  the 
dog  that  bounded  about  him,  barking.  I  soon  found  that 
my  whistling  counted  for  nothing,  and  a  careful  shot  al- 
ways landed  my  prize  under  the  tree. 

In  Montana  they  present  a  much  darker  color  than  that 
of  the  eastern  birds.  At  the  sight  of  a  dog  they  will  fly 
quickly  into  a  small  tree  and  sit  perfectly  still,  while  you 
walk  all  around  them  among  the  low  trees.  Once,  when  re- 
turning to  camp,,  after  a  vain  search  for  a  bear,  I  struck  a 
thicket  of  cottonwoods  and  quaking-asps,  so  dense  that  I 
was  compelled  to  crawl  through  it  on  my  knees.  Suddenly, 
I  heard  the  quick  whirr  of  a  grouse's  flight,  and  the  bird 
perched  himself  on  a  limb  that  was  clearly  outlined  in  the 
moonlight.  I  had  his  whole  body  silhouetted  and  it  was  a 
beautiful  picture.  The  crest  of  feathers  upon  his  head 
shown  as  plainly  as  though  the  time  were  midday.  I  drew 
a  bead  for  his  neck  and  fired.  His  plump  body  fell  like  a 
stone,  and  I  still  preserve  his  stuffed  skin  as  a  memento  of 
the  grouse  seen  and  killed  in  my  boyhood  days,  although 
he  differs  from  them  in  color. 


298  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

To  the  student  of  animal  life  and  of  animal  history,  a 
hunter's  sojourn  in  the  primitive  Rockies  was  a  continual 
aelight.  Every  day  brought  something  new.  Every  tramp 
after  game,  when  one's  eyes  and  senses  were  preternaturally 
active,  was  almost  a  new  revelation.  The  children  of  the 
wild  were  there  seen  in  all  of  their  moods  and  revealed  them- 
selves as  they  really  are.  No  stuffed  bird  or  beast  in  a  mu- 
seum is  to  be  ever  compared  with  the  animal  in  its  native 
state  and  home,    I  have  been  highly  favored  in  this  respect. 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  299 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 


Conclusion. 


Those  days  are  gone  and  my  retrospect  is  now  ended. 
"Ye  have  lived  my  Hfe,  ye  have  heard  my  tale,"  and  I  must 
say  farewell.  And  yet  I  linger.  The  new  days  are  so  unlike 
the  old.  The  free,  wild  life  of  nature  and  of  nature  studies 
has  been  so  changed  by  the  circumscribing  influence  of  civi- 
lization, so  measured  by  metes  and  bounds,  that  we  are  now 
living  the  life  of  another  world.  I  cling  to  the  memories  of 
the  past  with  the  warmth  and  tenacity  of  the  ardent  lover, 
and  the  reader  will  bear  me  if  I  indulge  in  a  closing  remi- 
niscence. I  can  still  see,  by  the  clear  mountain  streams,  the 
busy  beavers  of  the  olden  time,  cutting  trees  and  building 
dams  to  provide  the  water  in  which  they  can  build  their 
houses  and  be  protected  from  the  intrusions  of  their  brothers 
of  the  wild.  By  their  extermination  one  large  element  of  the 
purchasing  power  of  the  Indian  has  passed  away.  All 
things  of  that  loved  period  have  passed. 

Link  after  link  has  dropped  off  from  the  chain  of  prim- 
itive existence.  The  deer  have  been  killed,  their  skins  taken 
to  the  East  and  made  into  gloves,  while  the  remnants  of  the 
once  great  tribes  of  Indians  must  now  resort  to  other  means 
to  secure  their  footwear.  Their  moccasined  feet  no  longer 
sound  noiselessly  on  plain  and  mountain.  The  juicy  veni- 
son is  no  longer  an  article  of  staple  food.    The  agile  red  and 


300  ADVENTURES   OF  DR.    ALLEN. 

black-tailed  deer  no  longer  bound  in  bands  along  the  water- 
courses or  over  the  plains  and  hills.  The  enormous  herds 
of  elk,  whose  tread  once  shook  the  earth  as  their  massive 
forms  thundered  down  the  mountain  side  or  dashed  across 
the  valleys,  have  disappeared. 

The  dusky  warrior  no  longer  rides  his  war-horse,  in 
feathered  pride  of  painted  war  array,  across  the  plains,  or 
sends  his  obsidian  arrow  hurtling  through  the  heart  of  elk 
or  buffalo.  No  longer  the  braves  meet  in  battle,  bedecked 
in  war  paint,  for  the  extermination  of  other  tribes,  or  to 
swoop  down  on  pioneer  settlements  with  their  blood-curdling 
yells  and  flashing  hatchets.  No  longer  the  Indian  lover  brings 
the  trophies  of  the  chase  to  the  tepee  door  of  his  brown- 
eyed  betrothed.  No  longer  is  their  summer  home  pitched 
amid  the  profusion  of  wild  flowers,  the  sweet  perfumed 
cedars  and  pines.  Thousand  of  such  tepees  once  dotted  the 
plains,  the  benches,  and  the  margins  of  the  streams,  where 
the  inmates  passed  their  wild  life  as  happy  in  their  childish 
enjoyments  as  the  day  was  long.  Here,  too,  they  danced  the 
war-dance,  where  frenzied  braves  kept  time  to  the  weird 
monotonous  music  of  the  tomtom,  the  flickering  light  of 
the  camp-fires  rendered  aromatic  by  the  red  willow  and 
kinni-kinnick  plentifully  supplied  as  fuel,  which  cast  a  yel- 
low radiance  over  the  infernal  conclave,  making  the  glittering 
forms  of  the  eagle-plumed  warriors,  as  they  trod  the  meas- 
ures of  the  dance,  appear  like  devils  just  issuing  from  the 
gates  of  hell.  All,  all,  are  gone.  The  happy  life  and  the 
evil  life  are  now  things  of  the  past,  soon  to  be  unknown, 
even  in  memory,  to  the  people  of  the  land. 

I  must  say  farewell  to  all  of  these,  and  to  the  buffalo, 
whose  countless  droves  were  in  number  as  the  trees  of  the 
forest,  stretching  in  almost  one  unbroken  mass  from  the 
Staked  Plains  to  the  Canadian  line.    They  furnished  lodges 


TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ROCKIES.  3OI 

and  meat  for  the  hordes  of  Indians  dwelling  on  the  plains. 
Their  robes  were  downy  blankets,  and  could  be  exchanged 
for  ammunition,  knives,  beads,  and  for  the  gaudily  woven 
blankets  of  the  white  man.  Their  sinews  formed  the  bow- 
strings that  whizzed  the  deadly  arrows  to  the  living  mark 
of  animals  or  men.  They  were  watched  and  guarded  as  the 
white  man  guards  and  watches  his  costliest  herds.  All  gone, 
all  gone,  they  are  now  things  of  the  past.  All  of  the  wild  life 
and  all  of  its  wild  nature  has  passed  from  the  earth.  To  them 
all  I  here  say  farewell.  And  farewell  to  the  grand  old 
Rockies. 

"Farewell  to  the  Rockies,"  did  I  say?  Never.  They  yet 
exist;  and  to  them  I  shall  never  say  farewell,  until  my  eye- 
lids, glazed  by  death,  refuse  me  their  sight.  The  grand  old 
Rockies !  with  their  snow-clad  peaks,  whose  tops  are  lost  in 
the  immensity  of  Heaven's  own  blue,  where  wind  and  storm 
and  snow,  glaciers  and  waterfalls  abound,  where  Indian 
history  and  mythology  are  carved  in  imperishable  records 
on  granite  walls,  where  yet  stands  the  sheep-eater's  pile  of 
bones.  To  them  I  will  not  say  farewell.  Eternal  in  their 
existence,  the  backbone  of  the  American  continent,  they  will 
ever  divide  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific.  They 
will  still  hoard  up  for  the  use  of  coming  men  the  hidden 
treasures,  now  concealed  for  uncounted  centuries,  treasures 
of  shining  sapphires,  rubies,  amethysts,  gold,  much  gold, 
and  silver,  and  copper,  and  iron.  They  will  still  send  forth 
the  crystal  streams  of  pure,  life-giving  water  for  the  delec- 
tation and  refreshment  of  man,  and  that  the  whole  land  may 
be  carpeted  with  richest  grasses,  ornamented  with  flowers 
of  wondrous  beauty,  provided  with  a  giant  growth  of  pine, 
hemlock,  cedar,  fir,  aspen,  willow  and  cottonwood.  The  liquid 
streams  will  ever  spring  from  solid  ice  fountains  deep  down 
in  the  thousand  massive  glaciers  of  everlasting  brilliancy, 
sparkling  like  morning  dew  in  the  glint  of  the  sunshine. 


302  ADVENTURES  OF  DR.   ALLEN. 

Grand  old  Rockies!  Thy  beauties  no  artist  can  ever 
portray.  Thy  charms  no  poet's  pen  describe.  To  you  I  can 
never  say  farewell,  and,  when  my  spirit  takes  its  flight  to 
the  great  God  who  has  permitted  me  to  tarry  so  long  in  this 
delightful  region,  may  I  be  permitted  to  pass  away  with  my 
eyes  resting  upon  thy  unequaled  magnificence  and  beauty 
when  the  evening  sun  casts  its  last  declining  rays  on  the 
gold  and  scarlet,  jasper  and  emerald  coloring  presented  on 
your  gorgeous,  towering  and  familiar  peaks. 


